Canada Update: Trophy Wall Zugzwang.

Head over to Nick's blog here where you'll find the full report on - 'The Sea', 'The Blob' and 'Replicant' that he and Rob have just completed on the Trophy Wall, Mount Rundle.

Long Weekend in Chamonix (By Chris Smith)

Having two young children (2 and a half and 4 months, respectively) has certainly curtailed my adventurous activities over the last couple of years. However, I managed to acquire the all important 'pass' from my wife in order to spend a long weekend in the Alps, skiing with 3 friends (Nick, Gordon and Dave)



Favourable Forecast!

The forecast looked promising for the duration of the weekend. Snow conditions were relatively good, with plenty of white stuff to enjoy. Temperatures had been rising of late so avalanche danger was an increasing threat especially in the afternoons. With very little fresh snow even the most remote snowfields had been tracked out by like-minded skiers and boarders. We had 3 days to go at:



Dave and Chris approaching Col des Crochues





Nick and Gordon

 Day 1 was spent on Le Brevent, finding our ski legs. Myself and Dave hadn't skied for 2 years, however, it was Nick and Gordon's third trip of the season!!



Chris heading down the Valley before ascent to Col Du Berard



I had recently bought a new pair of touring boots (Scarpa Maestrale) to replace my Scarpa Denali's that had served me well for 10 years! This was the weekend to break them in and enjoy the technogical advancements of modern boot technology (light, responsive, comfortable). Unfortunately, in use the boots were just too narrow and they gave me a lot of pain throughout the weekend which really hindered my enjoyment as I had to ski with them relatively loose, which totally compromised any gains in responsiveness! I did have them professionally fitted and I am confident that after a little bit of tweaking here and there they will fit perfectly!? 



View back up to Col des Crochues





Quick rest to take in the views before the skin up to Col du Berard

Day 2 was spent skiing the Crochues-Berard (all pics) traverse (Classic!) in the company of Matt Dickinson, a British Mountain Guide, based in the Chamonix Valley. This was a great day - a true mountain adventure; L'Index lift, Floria button; skin to the Col des Crochues - involving plenty of kick-turns on the ascent. [In 2003, I ruptured my ACL whilst kick-turning on an early alpine start during a traverse of the Haute Route]. I did not want to repeat that on this trip. I must confess that I was moderately proud of my kick-turns on this particular day! Skis off for last 20 metres or so. Breathtaking views of the route that would take us down the valley, before skinning up to the Col du Berard for a lunch stop. Stunning views of the Berard Valley which would lead us ultimately to our destination - Le Buet.




Skiers heading off down the impressive Berard Valley to Le Buet

 

Dave - as always skiing with poise and control!



Chris descending from Col du Berard - we did find some untracked snow further down the valley



Day 3 was spent at Le Grands Montets where we picked up a route from the top cable car and skiied down via the Glacier Argentiere.

A great few days. A better fitting boot would have increased my enjoyment, however, as they say.....no pain, no gain!!

Mountain Equipment:

I took a few bits of new gear with me to test, however, the weather was just too good and I was invariably skiing in a base layer (Altus Half Zip), softshell jacket (Microtherm) and soft shell trousers (G2 Ultimate Mtn Pant)

Kalanka Jacket - Day One (Brevent)

Changabang Pant - Day One

Eclipse Hooded Zip T (new for AW11) - Day One - again brill bit of kit, just too warm today!

Microtherm Jacket - Touring day (at least 8 years old - still amazing)

G2 Ultimate Mountain Pant - Day 2 and 3: don't delay...buy a pair today!! The most amazingly verstaile mountain pant!! 

Firelite Jacket - stayed in pack on touring day

Firelite Pant - stayed in pack on touring day

Altus LS Zip Neck (powerdry)

Momentum Powerdry base layer.

Powerstretch Tights - worn under Chang Pants

Aiguille Hooded Jacket - not worn



Bastion Jacket (New for AW11) - unfortunately not worn

Randonee Glove - spare gloves on touring day.

Super Alpine Glove - every day. Great glove!

Couloir Glove - not worn



Couloir and Pinnacle Glove Advertisement!







Canada update: No Use in Crying

Nick and Rob look to be having a great time in Canada completing No Use in Crying (IV M7, 205m) on the Weeping Wall yesterday. Check out Nick's blog for the full report and further photos here

Andy Parkin: Documentary

Just had an update from Andy on what he's be up and has planned over next few months. Amongst Guiding and his Art Andy he has been doing work with various television and radio networks including this documentary shot for Redbull/Austrian TV channel Servus TV.

The Documentary is part of series called "Bergwelten" in which this episode follows Andy and fellow climber Steve House as they look back on their climbing careers and climb the North Face of the Dru together late last year.

You can view the 60 minute documentary here, however it has been dubbed into German.. but its is well shot and still worth a watch.   

Mallorca

Unfortunately my time off from the ever hectic ME Marketing office coincided with thermo-nuclear melt down in Scotland. What had looked initially like some useful consolidation turned instead into a drastic thaw which even the most optimistic winter warriors were struggling to see a way back from. With winter climbing ruled out it was time for plan B which, less excitingly, was to continue the winters training/ suffering on the bike. Happily this was to be followed by a week of sun rock and immaculate tarmac in Mallorca…. or at least that was the plan.

I love Mallorca, not only are there some of the best sport crags in Europe but it allows me to indulge my penchant for being a continental cycling fashion victim without looking out of place. There aren’t many places where you can be on immaculate limestone one day and wearing white lycra with a straight face the next. Sadly this year the weather didn’t work out and, apart from one fantastically warm day at Gubia, it was pretty cold and windy. Shorts and t-shirts at the start of the week were rapidly replaced by clothing more suited to Alpinism than Euro-sport. Even crags billed as sheltered like S’estret required lowering off straight into a duvet jacket to preserve what little warmth you’d built up on route.

After a winter of riding hard in the Lakes I was at least well prepared for the strong winds, relative cold and occasional wetness even if the wardrobe I’d brought wasn’t. My heavier duty bike gear all lay abandoned on the cellar floor in Kendal and by the end of a shivering 9.5km descent into Sa Callobra I was beginning to regret it. A couple of coffees in the cafe and the subsequent full tilt climb back out soon warmed me up but this wasn’t the sun drenched mileage I’d hoped for. Each day dawned to more wind and more miles. Towards the end of the week people were being blown off bikes in exposed spots and the flying down wind sections were become little compensation for the savage head and cross winds that followed.

It wasn’t all bad though, some great routes were climbed, I hit my target mileage for the week and research into the use of Cava as a recovery drink continued. Hopefully this will put me in good stead for a great summer on the rock and a ‘properly quick’ Fred Whitton amongst other things….. there may even be some respectable routes in the Alps if I can put the two together!


Rich B.

Canada Update: A Forty Year Old Can Do Anything

Head over to Nick's blog here and check out what the guys have been up to so far

photo: Rob Greenwood

North Face of Pic Sans Nom

I've just had an email update in from Guide, Professional photographer and friend of the brand Thomas Vialletet who late last week completed a Winter ascent of the North Face of Pic Sans Nom, ( 3913m, Oisans Massif ) with his climbing partner Nico Draperi.

Thomas 

You can checkout Thomas's full report over at his blog here - in French only I'm afraid, however there are some great photos from the route too so its well worth a look.

Thomas is off to Kichatna Spire, Alaska in April, so we look forward to seeing his report form that trip.

For all the latest take a look at Thomas's Guiding and photography sites here

http://www.guidehautemontagne05.com  and  http://www.escape-photography.com/

Photos: Nico Draperi