Friday, 30 September 2011

Enjoying the weather

On my drive home from the office, there is a little outcrop on the ridge line above the Don valley. This teases me every time I drive down the opposite side of the valley. So today how could I resist!

I had to  pick my way through brambles and  gorse bushes in my sandals but after one false start I had a very enjoyable session in the sunshine. I even got my phone to cooperate on self timer for a photo.

I hope everyones out enjoying the weather before we start thinking of snow and ice!

Andy


One week to the EMMF

Turner, Humpherys, Destivelle, Dawes, Warzecha and Hollekim are just a few names you can check out at this years Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival, which kicks off in a weeks time.

Head to EMMF site here for tickets and programme details and we'll see you there! 

Heres a taster to wet your appetites 



  



Thursday, 29 September 2011

A Quick Trip to Pembroke

A frustrating summer of illness has seen me rather silent on the ME blog, climbing trips have been limited by various combinations of fatigue, nausea and symptoms that I’ll spare you the details of. A few semi-successful trips to the wall and odd low intensity sessions on the bike in recent weeks had however done wonders for my confidence so, with some time off from my ME marketing responsibilities due, it was time to get out regardless. Having tried endless sleep, random pills, a lot of fruit and a colonoscopy that caused more questions from friends than any route I’ve ever done, could it be that sunny sea cliffs were actually the remedy? There was only one way to find out.

Happily a contender for the world’s most reliable climbing partner was on hand. Soupy, aka Mark, is a paramedic and variously a mountaineering instructor, roped access technician, Antarctic veteran and coffee aficionado. Suitably reassured I loaded up the car and headed for Pembroke where the BBC had promised us it would be largely sunny and generally perfect for climbing.

After a late arrival at a sodden campsite we awoke to more dampness, a lot of grey clouds and very strong winds. At least the crags would dry quickly and despite the constant buffeting of the tent this was apparently less serious than it got ‘down South’. Some dozing and procrastinating over cups of tea later it was decided that we should at least approach the crag for a look. St. Govan’s seemed the least threatening option with the unhelpful tides and military firing and Soupy duly disappeared over the edge with the abseil rope making frequent attempts at escaping back over the top of the cliff. Climbing conditions were definitely sub-optimal as was proved further by a rapid and bracing ascent of Army Dreamers, a normally benign classic enlivened considerably by the almost Patagonian conditions. A retreat to the Café was required where we pooled our extensive collective experience and made the spectacularly poor decision to try Mowing Word where, if anything, it was windier. Some efficient, and briefly horizontal, jumaring above an impressively boiling sea later and we found ourselves at the rather less exciting Stennis Head. I led a final route with even less style than normal to finish an unproductive day.

Day two started with the beginnings of a sadly familiar tiredness out of all proportion to the previous days activities but the wind had dropped considerably and it was time to get on with it. Soupy made short work of Calisto at St. Govan’s East before we headed back to the main crag for a few more routes. Halfway up the Arrow, a route I would expect to feel really steady, the wheels came off completely and my body let it be known that wellness couldn’t be forced, however good the climbing. After struggling up the fantastic flow stone and friendly holds I flopped uselessly onto the top and prepared myself for a long drive home to Kendal.

The following days were spent feeling less than well but just going climbing again made it all seem worthwhile. With a good winter in prospect it’s time to finally sort things out and get back to a normal diet of training and climbing, hopefully I will be blogging about some proper climbing adventures soon!

Rich B

Wednesday, 28 September 2011

DAV Expedition Team: Summer Camp Report

Words by Mirko (DAV Team)

During the past 2 months the guys from the DAV Expedition Team have continued to work through their extensive expedition-training programme.

Reini, Max and Sebi headed out to the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan to attempt a route on K7,  unfortunately they had to turn back on their attempt due to reasons beyond their control. Fellow team members Dario, Mirko and Felix spent the summer climbing hard routes around the Alps.

At the start of September the team converged on Courmayeur just south of Mont Blanc, with mountain guide Michi Wärthl and the Exped. team leader David Göttler.   
After spending time at the Turin hut acclimatising the guys then headed out on their various objectives:

Reini and Michi climbed L’élixir d‘Astaroth  (7a+ , A1, 400m) on the Grand Capucin (3838 m)

Sebi and Felix climbed the Bonatti route (6a, A1, 550m).

Max on Dent de Geant

Mirko, Dario and David headed to the Gervasutti Pillar, Mont Blanc de Tacul. When they arrived they were surprised to find a vast amount of rock debris on the glacier and noticed that the first pitch of their route was damaged. So they then walked to the other side of the glacier and climbed the Direct South (6c, 7 pitches) on the Dent de Geant (4013m).

The following day a well acclimatised Mirko, Reini, Felix and David trekked from the camp ground to the Monzino hut (2590 m), then the foLlowing day on to the Eccles bivouac (4041 m) before then climbing the Freney pillar (6-,A0, 800m). On the summit of Mont Blanc there was strong winds and snow, so it was not so easy to find the way in the white out.

Reini, Felix, Mirko and Max on Summit of Mont Blanc

Dario, Max, Sebi and Michi wanted to try the Gervasutti Route (6c+, A2, 750m) on the east face of Grand Jorasses, but the conditions were really poor due too high temperatures. So they descended back to the valley and the following day climbed at the Chandelle de Tacul.

Next the team head to the High Tatra in Eastern Europe for Winter Camp.

Felix on Freney Pillar

DE:


Die letzten Monate waren die Jungs vom Expedkader privat unterwegs. Reini, Max und Sebi waren im Charakusa Valley in Pakistan und versuchten dort eine Tour am K7, welche sie jedoch auf Grund diverser Probleme abbrechen mussten. Dario, Mirko und Felix kletterten schwere Touren in West- und Ostalpen.

Für September war das lang ersehnte Sommercamp im Mont Blanc Massiv geplant. Als Talort wurde Courmayeur auf der Südseite des Massivs gewählt. Das Team wurde dabei von Expeditionsbergsteiger und Bergführer Michi Wärthl unterstützt.

Zur Akklimatisation übernachtete der Kader auf der Refugio Torino. Am nächsten Tag kletterten Reini und Michi die L’élixir d‘Astaroth  (7a+, A1, 400m) am Grand Capucin (3838 m), Sebi und Felix kletterten ebenfalls dort die Bonatti Führe (6a, A1, 550m).

Mirko, Dario, Max und David wollten sich am Gervasutti Pfeiler am Mont Blanc de Tacul akklimatisieren, wunderten sich im Zustieg über viele Blöcke in der Größe von Telefonzellen und fanden den Einstieg nicht, bis es um 5.30 Uhr hell wurde und sie erkannten dass sie im Zustieg über die Überreste der ersten Seillänge liefen.  So entschieden sie sich an den Dent de Geant (4013m) zu gehen und  kletterten dort die Direkte Südwand (6c, 7 SL). 

Mirko and Felix approach the Eccles bivouac

Gut akklimatisiert starteten Mirko, Reini, Felix und David vom Campingplatz aus zur Monzino Hütte (2590 m), am nächsten Tag zum Eccles Biwak (4041 m) und kletterten am dritten Tag den Freney Pfeiler (6-, A0, 800m). Aufgrund einer aufziehenden Kaltfront mussten sie ihre Leidensfähigkeit unter Beweis stellten, als sie um halb acht abends im Schneesturm und „white out“ den Gipfel des Mont Blanc erreichten.

Dario, Max, Sebi und Michi nahmen sich als Ziel die Gervasutti Route (6c+, A2, 750m) durch die Ostwand der Grandes Jorasses zu klettern. Im ersten Licht starteten sie vom Tal aus über den Gletscher zum Col de Hirondelles und kletterten auf dem Hirondelles Grat bis auf fast 3700 m um von dort zu der Ostwand zu queren. Jedoch war aufgrund der hohen Temperaturen der Bereich stark ausgeapert und extrem brüchig, was ein Queren zu gefährlich machte. So stiegen sie noch am selben Tag die 2100 Hm wieder ins Tal ab.



Reini, Felix, and Mirko on Summit of Mont Blanc

Am nächsten Tag nahmen sie wieder die Bahn zur Turiner Hütte und kletterten an der Chandelle de Tacul und am Piller Surprise.

Nach einer lustigen, sportlichen und abenteuerlichen Woche in den Westalpen kehrte der Expedkader nach Hause zurück und freut sich bereits auf das nächste Trainingscamp im Winter in der Hohen Tatra.


Sunrise over Langdale

ME Product Manager Richard Talbot has just sent me this image of the sunrise over Langdale this morning while he was out on recce of the "Langdale horseshoe race"

Tuesday, 27 September 2011

In conversation with... Stephen Venables

Check out the latest in our In conversation with... series featuring ME Pro partner
Stephen Venables.

Monday, 26 September 2011

British Cordillera Carabaya Expedition: Report

Friend of the brand Tom Ripley has just mailed in this report from the sucessful British Cordillera Carabaya Expedition... 

Chichicapac South Face with our line marked in red

"Hamish Dunn and I have just returned from a successful expedition to the Cordillera Carabaya, a remote and relatively unexplored mountain range in Southern Peru.

Hamish with a laden donkey

After four days acclimatizing in Puno we arrived in Macusani, the nearest town to the range, to discover that nobody spoke English or understood our limited Spanish. We were lucky to bump into Daniel, a Spanish catholic priest on a year’s exchange, who spoke good English. After much explaining he finally understood where we wanted to go. (we had been unable to locate a map to the area in Lima!) He kindly drove us and our gear to the end of the nearest road and arranged for two donkey’s to carry all our gear, to the edge of Laguna Chambine, where we planned to camp.

Our bivi tent. We descended the glacier behind. The South face is out of sight behind the ridge on the right.

After acclimatizing sufficiently and making a reconnaissance of the face we returned to base camp and sat out a period of bad weather. On August 22 we made the first ascent of our main objective the South Face of Chichicapac. The most obvious line up the face was threatened by seracs, so we climbed a direct line up the centre of the face, encountering sustained and insecure mixed climbing, until the top headwall forced us leftwards. A short, but very loose rock chimney led us to the top part of the face. A long tricky pitch, followed by easier but very loose terrain, led to an easy snow slope and the summit plateau.

Tom leading low down on the face


Hamish leading the very loose chimney.

Having spent ten hours on the face we summited just before five that evening. Anxious to descend in daylight (sunset is at 5:30) we quickly descended the West ridge, before making a short abseil onto a small glacier that lead us to back to our bivi tent.

Hamish (left) and Tom on the summit

Being in the Southern Hemisphere conditions on Chichicapac’s south face were similar to those that would be found on a European north face. The majority of the face was mixed climbing, involving powder snow on loose rock. The difficulties were quite sustained and most of the pitches were about Scottish IV/V with a couple of crux pitches of VI. The rock was generally terrible and protection sparse. Our route is 700 metres long with an overall alpine grade of TD.


We would like to thank The Alpine Club, British Mountaineering Council and Mount Everest Foundation. Without their financial support the expedition would not have take place."


Friday, 23 September 2011

In conversation with... Heinz Zak

The latest interview from our In conversation with... series featuring ME Pro partner
Heinz Zak 



You can check out more about Heinz at www.heinzzak.com

Tuesday, 20 September 2011

In conversation with... Peter Habeler

The next interview in our In conversation with... series is mountaineering legend Peter Habeler.

Watch in the interview in full below.

Pete Boardman's Downsuit

Make sure you check out the Autumn/Winter issue of Summit Magazine where you'll find a great article written by Alex Messenger looking at the history of Pete Boardman's ME down suit, which currently resides in the archive of the Mountain Heritage Trust.



You can find more info at the links below 

www.thebmc.co.uk

www.mountain-heritage.org

Sunday, 18 September 2011

Night out with Sport Raip

Rather than the usual in store sleeping bag training last week, Thomas Strobl Owner of Invia our German Distributor, took staff from specialist outdoor retailer Sport Riap out to the Berchtesgadner AlpsBavaria a for night out on the hill.




After a discussion packed hard days hike in amazing weather conditions the guys then spent the night out on the Hoher Staufen (1771m) testing some of the latest ME Sleeping bag range.




Sunday, 11 September 2011

In conversation with... Andy Parkin

Check out the latest video from our "In conversation with..." series, featuring ME Pro partner Andy Parkin.





Wednesday, 7 September 2011

Nick Bullock Signs book deal

Were pleased to announce that ME Pro partner Nick Bullock has signed his first book deal with Vertebrate Publishing. (read the full press release here)


  
Nick's debut book, provisionally titled ‘Echoes will hit the shelves in 2012. If you can't wait till then you can keep up to date/read Nick's latest thoughts at his blog here 

Monday, 5 September 2011

In conversation with... Reinhold Messner

Exclusive extended interview with Mountaineering Legend Reinhold Messner.  



This interview was taken from the filming of our "50 years in the Mountains" film which you can view in full over at the ME home page here. It is also available for free download from our friends at steepedge.com.

Saturday, 3 September 2011

Nick Bullock: Melody 2nd Ascent

ME Pro partner Nick Bullock has made the 2nd ascent of Melody (HXS or possibly E9), a steep and dangerous route at Craig Dorys, Lleyn Peninsula, North Wales first climbed by Stevie Haston back in 2005.




You can read full reports at:


Nick's Blog 
UKClimbing.com
DMM Website

Thursday, 1 September 2011

SAFOS Lectures

Our friends at the SAIS are offering the opportunity for all winter mountain enthusiasts, skiers, boarders, climbers, walkers, mountain guides, instructors and other professionals to address the challenges that avalanche hazard in Scotland presents. What snowpack conditions are we faced with? How can we effectively manage decision making as enthusiasts, as rescue teams, as individuals and as commercial operators?
These topics and relevant experiences will be presented by: Stefan Harvey - WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research, Switzerland, Ed Chard - Jagged Globe, Dave MacLeod - Professional Climber , Mark Williams - Research Institute for Sport and Exercise Science, Liverpool John Moores University, Mark Diggins - SAIS Coordinator, John Allen MBE - Scottish Mountain Rescue. The seminar will also provide an opportunity for participants to discuss topics and issues relevant to all mountain users and enable a better understanding of the challenges that we face in avalanche terrain.

Event itself is being held at Ratho on the weekend of 29th/30th October'11. 
ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod will also be lecturing on the Saturday evening as part of this event.
More information/tickets available at the SAIS site here