Return of the Mild

Drizzley, Grey and mild.... it feels nore like September than December here at ME HQ today and with emails coming in from our pro partner team that conditions have dropped off a bit it looks like winter maybe back on hold (for now at least!) 

We did however see some great winter climbing conditions across the UK over the past few days, so what better than to take a look at some images of the team in action to keep the dreams of the white stuff alive for those of you like us sat in the office waiting for the winter break to arrive.

I've also thrown in a bit of comedy courtesy of Ruth and Lukasz - in the form of Andy T doing his best "Anger" during his studio shoot last week.   

For full reports on all the latest action check out our Team Blog opposite -

   2 photos above... Andy on a New routing mission in a Secret North Wales location with fellow team member
Baggy pictured in action below  

Nick on 1st ascent of Ride the Wild Bullhorn on the Ben p: Dougal Tavener

Jens: New Route SW Poincenot

Just had this quick email in from Jens who's currently out in Patagonia, where he and fellow climbers Mike Schaefer and Joel Kauffman have just had an epic 3 days on the South West Face of Poincenot.

Photo: Joel Kauffman collection, check Planet Kauffman in the coming days for more photos and more stories 

Jens...


"Hope life is good in the UK and that you are enjoying the holiday season.


Wanted to give you the most current update from down south...warm temperatures have made our ice objectives on the west side of the Torres suicidal at the moment, so we changed focus and chose a wild first ascent objective on the south face of Poincenot, one of the most beautiful big walls in Patagonia.


Two days ago, Joel Kauffman, Mike Schaefer, and I finished our 900 meter first ascent that proved to be one of the most difficult climbs of our lives. I am so grateful to have lived this experience. 


Our climb took three days and involved several types of climbing including difficult aid climbing on a wild steep big wall. A malfunctioning stove caused severe dehydration and several other crazy events happened as well. We are all safe, but barely functioning at the moment...trying to come back to life here! Once we have recovered a bit I will send some amazing material your way. We shot video and pictures and have a wild, wild story to tell"


We look forward to hearing more in the coming days!!!

Welcome to the team week... Helena Robinson

The final new member we'd like to welcome to our pro partner team is Helena Robinson. 

Helena is one of a rare breed of Guernsey climbers. At the age of 14 she began sea level traversing along the island’s south coast, armed with a book of treasure map style topos called ‘Guernsey Coastal Walks and Scrambles’. Illogically, this led to an interest in winter mountaineering which became her passion when she studied at Edinburgh University, and is still her favourite discipline today.

Helena recently spent a year in Switzerland as a climbing nanny, exploring the mountains around the house by ski and by foot, which led her on to compete in her first ultra trail running race.
Helena is currently based in Llanberis, North Wales having just started a PhD in cancer research at Bangor University.

We first got to know Helena after she won herself a place on the Gore Tex Experience tour trip to Norway with Dave MacLeod back in August and were all pleased to have her onboard, and look forward to seeing what she gets up to over this winter season.

You can keep up to date with what Helena's been up too at her blog here

Welcome to the team week... Mark "Baggy" Richards

Next we'd like to officially welcome Blue Peris centre manager, AMI and MIC instructor and the Perez Hilton of Welsh Winter Conditions blogging, Mark "Baggy" Richards to the team.

Over to Mark

"For me, finding myself in amazing outdoor places, having a great time sharing adventures with others, feeling good after achieving one’s goals and seeing young people achieve more than they ever imagined is what is so good about the outdoors. Over the years, I have become fully absorbed in the outdoor way of life. Partly because of the personal benefits and meeting new people, but also to give back and share my passion by enthusing and teaching others.

My professional experience
My, teaching, instructing and guiding experience spans 26 years. I was introduced to the outdoors through my secondary school by very enthusiastic teachers. It is that opportunity which has allowed me to gain a career in the outdoors. Originally training as a carpenter, then building site foreman, I started university as a mature student undertaking an outdoor education / science degree at I M Marsh. After working and holding positions in a wide variety of LEA outdoor centres, I gained the post of mountaineering/climbing instructor for 5 years at Plas-y-Brenin (the English National Mountain Centre) I have also worked in the capacity of freelance instructor for a vast array of establishments such as Glenmore Lodge (the Scottish National Mountain Centre), Jagged Globe and a wide range of Local Education Authority centres.
Currently, I manage Blue Peris Mountain Centre, alongside guiding and teaching all over the UK. I am a member of the ‘themic.org’ which identifies the highest standard of climbing and mountain skills instruction in the UK alongside being a member of Association of Mountaineering Instructors. (AMI) 

Interests

Well this first has to be Welsh Winter climbing and in particular climbing new and classic routes, being the co-author of the North Wales Winter Climbing. Whilst not winter climbing, then hanging out on sea cliffs,  road biking helps keep me fit and gives another opportunity to see the great outdoors and help burn the calories off, as I just love cakes!
I have two young girls, who like fashion more than the outdoors and a house which I have been refurbishing for far too long. Any regrets, not being part of Team Sky (some say as their bike cleaner!)"

If you don't already then make sure you check out 'Baggys blog' for all the latest North Wales winter action here  

Welcome to the team week: Mary Harlan

Next athlete we'd like to welcome to the team is Mary Harlan

After a career as a professional ballet dancer in New York, St. Louis, and Russia, Mary decided she wanted something different in life. It was then at age 22 she began to pursue a career in mountaineering, rock climbing and ice climbing as a guide. Since then, Mary has climbed and guided in many parts of North America, from Grade V routes on the glaciated peaks of the Pacific Northwest to routes in Red Rocks Conservation Area in Nevada and the high altitude mountains of Alaska.

Mary on a Belly Full of Berries (5.13a)

Mary has a natural gift for offwidth climbing, and in 2008 she was one of the first women to climb the offwidth Belly Full of Bad Berries in Indian Creek, UT (5.13a) and more recently established several new routes across the western United States, including the multi-pitch route Roadhead, Grade IV, 5.10+, in The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

Mary has completed the Rock Discipline courses of the AMGA and is currently pursuing IFMGA certification. Last winter she completed her first ski mountaineering race, and plans to compete in several ski mountaineering races this winter, all while raising her 1 year old son, Samuel.

Were all looking forward to working with Mary and excited to see what she'll get up to this winter.

Welcome to the team week...Mike 'Twid' Turner

The next athlete we'd like to officially welcome to the team is Mike 'Twid' Turner. 

Twid has worked as a Mountaineering Instructor MIC since 1990 and as an IFMGA Guide since 1993. Twid started his outdoor career working for small centres, management training centres, Local IFMGA Guides from 16 years of age. Instead of becoming a Civil Engineer, which he studied at UMIST in Manchester, he decided to commit his professional working life to the Outdoors. For  15 years Twid worked as a senior instructor and head of rock climbing at Plas y Brenin, The National Mountain Centre. Now as an Independent Guide Twid offers a wide range of Adventures and Training opportunities and has his own business Guiding around the Alps and Expeditions to remote areas. He is as happy coaching beginners as to instructing and Guiding experienced Clients on more challenging climbs.

Twid's personal style of climbing is to push the boundaries as far as he can. If its not a struggle try harder! Whether its on trad routes in the UK, Sports climbing, Big Walls worldwide, Alpine climbing, Mixed climbing and Ice climbing.  He has climbed at a high standard for over 25 yrs and is still pushing for that next hardest climb. Through his passion and enthusiasm for the sport he hopes to encourage others to enjoy and explore their personal climbing boundaries!

Were super psyched to have Twid officially on board having worked with him on various projects over the past 3 years. You can check out all the latest from Twid and the guiding/courses he runs at his website here http://www.miketwidturner.com/  

Welcome to the team week.... Matt Gerdes

This week were introducing 5 new athletes to our Pro Partner Team. First off we'd like to welcome Matt Gerdes. 

American born, Matt has completed 20 seasons of full time backcountry skiing, with the past 12 of them in the European Alps. He has nabbed first descents and classic lines in the Alps, Caucasus, Baffin Island, and Alaska. Although not highly competitive by nature, Matt claims to be the undisputed world champion of “Having fun in the mountains” since 1980.

Matt on the Aiguilles Rouge, Chamonix Photo Adam Gorrill

In addition to freeride skiing, Matt is an accomplished speed flyer, speed-wing test pilot, and ski-BASE jumper. He is also widely recognized as one of the world’s leading wingsuit BASE jumpers and is the author of The Great Book of BASE. Matt’s life as a freerider has taken him all over the world but he feels most at home in the Alps, where there is an unparalleled amount of easily-accessed high quality big-mountain terrain. He also loves puppies, long walks on the beach, and is a beginning big wall climber.

Heres one of Matt's breath taking videos from a recent BASE trip to China

 

You can check out more about Matt and keep up to date with all his latest exploits at his website here  www.matttg.com

Dave MacLeod: Sunday Mail

Just had this scan in from Dave of a great article from the Sunday Mail newspaper based around the BBC's First Great Climb documentary which aired a few weeks ago.

Click image to enlarge   

Jens: Patagonia Update

I recieved this email in from Jens in the early hours of this morning with a quick update of what he's been up to down in Patagonia.

 

"Hope life is well in the UK...just firing you a quick note to let you know that I am here in Patagonia with all the right kit thanks to you and the great folks at ME! So far the weather has been challenging, which has not allowed us to try our main objectives, but never the less we have been giving it our best.

Joel Kauffman and I tried a new route on Pier Giorgio, a large formation that has only seen a few ascents. Rapidly warming temps difficult conditions made for a dangerous outing and we left the route before even really getting started...we were bummed out to say the least, but managed to make due with a repeat of a nice classic route on a beautiful, but smaller formation called Aguja Guillomet. Most importantly, we stayed alive!

Tomorrow we are heading into the Torre Valley to stash the ice gear for the main event. We have about 36 hours of decent weather ahead which we hope to use to get our gear in position. When the real weather window appears we will be ready to strike!

I've attached a photo of a climb up Guillomet to give you an idea of how beautiful the climbing is here! Once again, thanks so much, look for a blog post soon, and take care

Jens"


All Photos: Joel Kauffman collection, check Planet Kauffman in the coming days for more photos and more stories 

Plas y Brenin Kit AW11

Winter is finally in the air here in the UK which means its time for Plas y Brenin Op's manager Rob Spencer to begin the task of distributing this seasons Mountain Equipment kit delivery to centre staff.

Rob taking a look at the New Concordia Jacket

Mountain Equipment have been working with Plas y Brenin - The National Mountain Centre now for the past 8 years and their team of guides and instructors play a vital role in our continous product testing programme putting many Mountain Equipment styles too the test - in all conditions - 365 days a year.

This Winters Pyb kit list includes:

Shell -
Kamkatcha/ Valdez Jacket
Changabang / Ama Dablam Pant

Insulation - 
Citadel Jacket

Softshell - 
Astron Hooded/Astral Hooded Jacket
G2 Ultimate Mountain Pant

Thermal -
Concordia/Hispar Jacket
Micro/Orca Jacket
LS Crux/ LS Divinty T
  

ME Pro partner and Pyb Guide Stu McAleese gets to grips with his kit for the winter season

For more information about Plas y Brenin and the courses they run head to their website here

Nick Bullock: Breaking Out Interview

The January 2012 copy of Climber Magazine has just arrived at ME HQ. Make sure you go out and grab a copy, as it features a great interview with ME Pro partner Nick Bullock (words and photos by Ray Wood).

Photo: Ray Wood

Andy Turner at Manchester Climbing Centre

Andy Turner spent half the day early this week slapping up a vast number of holds onto the bouldering wall at Manchester Climbing Centre.

Andy.....

"The first thing they are going to be used for is some dry-tooling sessions with the boys from Manchester Grammar School. But then I'm hoping to get some hours in on my own tools climbing around in circles and remembering what exactly I'm supposed to do with them. So far I've been lucky enough that winter has not arrived but I think I ought to start putting some tool time in, instead of just training and climbing."

You can check out more details/photos at Andy's blog here

and check out all the latest from the Manchester Climbing Centre here