7th day, 31.08.2010
Today we wanted to climb Piz Boé, the main summit in the Sellagruppe, from Sellajochhaus using the Pössnecker Klettersteig (ferrata). But this was still in snow, and the clouds were hanging low in spite of a quite good weather forecast. So we walked down some bends on the Sellajoch road and in beginning snow fall went up from the south via the Val Lastiés reaching the Boéhütte (2871 m) in swirling snow. Here we took a meal. In howling snow storm we crossed Piz Boé (3152 m), went down Ferrata Piazzetta and still took in the Pordoispitze (2952 m). From this hell of a snow storm we ran down to the Pordoijoch (Passo Pordoi; 2242 m).
Down here, around the Albergo Savoja, there are green meadows, the clouds are ripping up and blown away by the foehn storm. Tomorrow we will walk to the foot of Marmolada (the highest and only seriously glaciered mountain of the Dolomites) and try to climb the summit via the Ferrata Marmolada on the long West Ridge. At least we are experienced now with snowy and glaced ferratas.
Tag 7, 31.08.2010
Heute wollten wir vom Sellajochhaus den Piz Boé in der Sellagruppe über den Pößnecker Klettersteig besteigen. Der war noch verschneit, und die Wolken hingen trotz recht guter Wetteransage tief. Also sind wir ein paar Kehren auf der Sellajoch-Straße abgestiegen und in beginnendem Schneefall von Süden übers Val Lastiés aufgestiegen zur Boéhütte (2871 m), wo wir bei dichtem Schneefall eingekehrt sind. Im heulenden Schneesturm haben wir den Piz Boé (3152 m) überschritten, sind die Ferrata Piazzetta abgestiegen und haben noch die Pordoispitze (2952 m) mitgenommen. Dann sind wir aus der Schneehölle runter zum Pordoijoch (Passo Pordoi; 2242 m) gelaufen.
Hier unten, um die Albergo Savoja, sind die Wiesen grün, die Wolken reißen auf und werden vom Fönsturm weggeblasen. Morgen wollen wir zur Marmolada und versuchen, über die Ferrata Marmolada am langen Westgrat aufzusteigen. Erfahrung mit verschneiten und vereisten Klettersteigen haben wir ja jetzt.
Tuesday, 31 August 2010
Dolomite Cross 2010, 6th day
6th day, 30.08.2010
Today’s bad weather comes in handy. We are sitting comfortably in the guestroom of Sellajochhaus, are planning for the next days and have a look at the snow piling up outside.
Tag 6, 30.08.2010
Der heutige Schlechtwettereinbruch kommt uns gerade Recht. Wir sitzen entspannt in der Stube des Sellajochhauses, planen für die nächsten Tage und schauen zu, wie draußen der Schnee wächst.
Today’s bad weather comes in handy. We are sitting comfortably in the guestroom of Sellajochhaus, are planning for the next days and have a look at the snow piling up outside.
Tag 6, 30.08.2010
Der heutige Schlechtwettereinbruch kommt uns gerade Recht. Wir sitzen entspannt in der Stube des Sellajochhauses, planen für die nächsten Tage und schauen zu, wie draußen der Schnee wächst.
Dolomite Cross 2010, 5th day
5th day, 29.08.2010
It turns out that the German degree IV+ (about 4) in the steep Dolomite rock of the Langkofel-Nordkante is more difficult than usual. You should be able to climb substantially more than degree four. On top of that there are few pitons, at one rope length of degree four only one in 45 climbing meters. The lime stone is partially fragile and still wet because of the rain the day before yesterday. There are even icicles in the north facing key lengths of the route. In short: An alpine climbing tour that is made quite seldom.
In spite of this I could take many photos which, naturally, made the climb up longer. The four-hour climb down with long passages in degree two and some abseilings still took us all the concentration we had. After one of my longest and most wearing down tours we again reached the Sellajochhaus in the light of our head lamps. Now we are completely exhausted and need a day’s rest.
Tag 5, 29.08.2010
Wie sich herausstellt, ist die Bewertung IV+ im steilen Dolomitenfels der Langkofel-Nordkante schwieriger als üblich. Man sollte also bei dieser Klettertour deutlich mehr als einen Vierer draufhaben. Dazu gibt es kaum Haken, bei einer Vierer-Seillänge nur einer auf 45 Meter. Der Kalk ist teils brüchig und noch nass von dem Regen vorgestern. In den nordseitigen Schlüsselseillängen hängen sogar Eiszapfen. Eine alpine Klettertour, die nur selten gemacht wird.
Trotzdem habe ich viel fotografieren können, was die Aufstiegszeit natürlich verlängert hat. Der vierstündige Abstieg vom Gipfel des Langkofels mit langen Passagen im zweiten Schwierigkeitsgrad und mehrmaligem Abseilen hat uns noch mal volle Konzentration abverlangt. Im Licht der Stirnlampen sind wir nach einer meiner längsten und aufreibendsten Touren wieder am Sellajochhaus angekommen. Nach 16 Stunden! Am ganzen Langkofelmassiv haben wir keinen Menschen getroffen. Jetzt sind wir völlig erschöpft und brauchen einen Ruhetag.
It turns out that the German degree IV+ (about 4) in the steep Dolomite rock of the Langkofel-Nordkante is more difficult than usual. You should be able to climb substantially more than degree four. On top of that there are few pitons, at one rope length of degree four only one in 45 climbing meters. The lime stone is partially fragile and still wet because of the rain the day before yesterday. There are even icicles in the north facing key lengths of the route. In short: An alpine climbing tour that is made quite seldom.
In spite of this I could take many photos which, naturally, made the climb up longer. The four-hour climb down with long passages in degree two and some abseilings still took us all the concentration we had. After one of my longest and most wearing down tours we again reached the Sellajochhaus in the light of our head lamps. Now we are completely exhausted and need a day’s rest.
Tag 5, 29.08.2010
Wie sich herausstellt, ist die Bewertung IV+ im steilen Dolomitenfels der Langkofel-Nordkante schwieriger als üblich. Man sollte also bei dieser Klettertour deutlich mehr als einen Vierer draufhaben. Dazu gibt es kaum Haken, bei einer Vierer-Seillänge nur einer auf 45 Meter. Der Kalk ist teils brüchig und noch nass von dem Regen vorgestern. In den nordseitigen Schlüsselseillängen hängen sogar Eiszapfen. Eine alpine Klettertour, die nur selten gemacht wird.
Trotzdem habe ich viel fotografieren können, was die Aufstiegszeit natürlich verlängert hat. Der vierstündige Abstieg vom Gipfel des Langkofels mit langen Passagen im zweiten Schwierigkeitsgrad und mehrmaligem Abseilen hat uns noch mal volle Konzentration abverlangt. Im Licht der Stirnlampen sind wir nach einer meiner längsten und aufreibendsten Touren wieder am Sellajochhaus angekommen. Nach 16 Stunden! Am ganzen Langkofelmassiv haben wir keinen Menschen getroffen. Jetzt sind wir völlig erschöpft und brauchen einen Ruhetag.
Dolomite Cross 2010, 4th day
4th day, 28.08.2010
In great weather we went up from Wolkenstein to the Sellajoch (a pass; 2244 m). Here we originally wanted to take a rest in the afternoon. But then the limestone rock at the Sella towers looked so coarse and well that we instantly climbed a 6b-route, secured with bolts, the new “Delenda Carthago” with 6 pitches. After that we walked to the Sellajochhaus (2180 m), from where we tomorrow want to climb the Nordkante (North Ridge) of the Langkofel. This is one of the longest classic routes in the Dolomites, with 1000 vertical and 1500 climbing meters.
Tag 4, 28.08.2010
Bei super Wetter sind wir von Wolkenstein zum Sellajoch (2244 m) aufgestiegen. Hier wollten wir eigentlich am Nachmittag eine Ruhepause einlegen. Dann sah aber der Kalkfels an den Sellatürmen so rau und gut aus, dass wir gleich in eine bohrhakengesicherte 6b-Route, also einen Siebener eingestiegen sind: Die neue „Delenda Carthago“ mit sechs Seillängen. Danach sind wir zum Sellajochhaus (2180 m), von dem aus wir morgen die Langkofel-Nordkante machen wollen. Die ist einer der längsten Dolomitenklassiker, mit 1000 Höhenmetern und 1500 Klettermetern.
In great weather we went up from Wolkenstein to the Sellajoch (a pass; 2244 m). Here we originally wanted to take a rest in the afternoon. But then the limestone rock at the Sella towers looked so coarse and well that we instantly climbed a 6b-route, secured with bolts, the new “Delenda Carthago” with 6 pitches. After that we walked to the Sellajochhaus (2180 m), from where we tomorrow want to climb the Nordkante (North Ridge) of the Langkofel. This is one of the longest classic routes in the Dolomites, with 1000 vertical and 1500 climbing meters.
Tag 4, 28.08.2010
Bei super Wetter sind wir von Wolkenstein zum Sellajoch (2244 m) aufgestiegen. Hier wollten wir eigentlich am Nachmittag eine Ruhepause einlegen. Dann sah aber der Kalkfels an den Sellatürmen so rau und gut aus, dass wir gleich in eine bohrhakengesicherte 6b-Route, also einen Siebener eingestiegen sind: Die neue „Delenda Carthago“ mit sechs Seillängen. Danach sind wir zum Sellajochhaus (2180 m), von dem aus wir morgen die Langkofel-Nordkante machen wollen. Die ist einer der längsten Dolomitenklassiker, mit 1000 Höhenmetern und 1500 Klettermetern.
The Great Climb now on BBC iPlayer
If you were not able to watch the Great Climb live on Saturday head over to BBC iPlayer to catch the highlights http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00ts470/The_Great_Climb/
Huge congratulations to Dave and Tim for pulling off the climb and to the team for putting together such an enjoyable and interesting program in the face of some monumental challenges.
Dolomite Cross 2010, 3rd day
3rd day, 27.08.2010
Today we wanted to climb an alpine climbing route, the Libanov-Pfeiler, which would have been dry. But the weather forecast was pretty bad as it would forecast thunderstorms since noon. So we already started before sunrise. At dawn we saw too many clouds in the sky, so we decided spontaneously against the climbing route which would have taken us seven to eight hours. Instead we crossed the Sass Rigais (3025 m; main summit of Geisler-Gruppe) on two ferratas. That was worthwile as we had impressive cloud movements, great light-impressions and, naturally, we have been at the summit alone. Then we went down fast to the Regensburger Hütte which we reached at 10 o’clock. After hurrying down to Wolkenstein (1563 m; in Grödner Tal) we had pouring rain and thunderstorms in the afternoon.
Tomorrow we will go to Sellajoch (2244 m) and climb some base climbs there (with a few rope lengths and bolts). After another 25 kilometers today - and those fast - we will need this quieter day. For Sunday we have planned the Nordkante (north ridge) of Langkofel (3138 m). The weather forecasts are excellent now, so it should work and we are looking forward to steep rock routes.
Tag 3, 27.08.2010
Für heute hatten wir uns eigentlich eine alpine Kletterroute vorgenommen, den Libanov-Pfeiler, eine Route die trocken gewesen wäre. Der Wetterbericht war aber schlecht, er sagte bereits ab Mittag schwere Gewitter voraus so dass wir noch vor Sonnenaufgang aufgebrochen sind. Es waren uns aber schon in der Dämmerung zu viele Wolken am Himmel. Wir haben uns deshalb spontan gegen diese Route entschieden, die hätte sieben oder acht Stunden gedauert. Wir haben stattdessen auf zwei Klettersteigen den Sass Rigais (3025 m; Hauptgipfel der Geislergruppe) überschritten. Das hat sich auch gelohnt, denn wir hatten am Gipfel eindrucksvolle Wolkenstimmungen, tolles Licht und waren natürlich allein am Gipfel. Dann sind wir im Eiltempo abgestiegen und waren schon um 10 Uhr wieder an der Regensburger Hütte. Nach dem Abstieg nach Wolkenstein (1563 m; im Grödner Tal) hat es dann am Nachmittag geschüttet und gewittert.
Morgen gehen wir dann zum Sellajoch (2244 m) und machen dort ein paar Sportkletterrouten (mit einigen Seillängen und Bohrhaken). Nach wieder knapp 25 Kilometern - und die im Eiltempo - brauchen wir einen ruhigeren Tag. Für Sonntag haben wir dann die Langkofel-Nordkante geplant. Die Wetterberichte sind jetzt sehr sehr gut, es sollte also klappen und wir freuen uns auf steile Felsrouten.
Für heute hatten wir uns eigentlich eine alpine Kletterroute vorgenommen, den Libanov-Pfeiler, eine Route die trocken gewesen wäre. Der Wetterbericht war aber schlecht, er sagte bereits ab Mittag schwere Gewitter voraus so dass wir noch vor Sonnenaufgang aufgebrochen sind. Es waren uns aber schon in der Dämmerung zu viele Wolken am Himmel. Wir haben uns deshalb spontan gegen diese Route entschieden, die hätte sieben oder acht Stunden gedauert. Wir haben stattdessen auf zwei Klettersteigen den Sass Rigais (3025 m; Hauptgipfel der Geislergruppe) überschritten. Das hat sich auch gelohnt, denn wir hatten am Gipfel eindrucksvolle Wolkenstimmungen, tolles Licht und waren natürlich allein am Gipfel. Dann sind wir im Eiltempo abgestiegen und waren schon um 10 Uhr wieder an der Regensburger Hütte. Nach dem Abstieg nach Wolkenstein (1563 m; im Grödner Tal) hat es dann am Nachmittag geschüttet und gewittert.
Morgen gehen wir dann zum Sellajoch (2244 m) und machen dort ein paar Sportkletterrouten (mit einigen Seillängen und Bohrhaken). Nach wieder knapp 25 Kilometern - und die im Eiltempo - brauchen wir einen ruhigeren Tag. Für Sonntag haben wir dann die Langkofel-Nordkante geplant. Die Wetterberichte sind jetzt sehr sehr gut, es sollte also klappen und wir freuen uns auf steile Felsrouten.
Friday, 27 August 2010
BBC Live Climb - Tomorrow
Don't forget to tune in tomorrow - Saturday 28th and check out ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod as he and Tim Emmett attempt a new route on Sron Ulladale Live on TV.
Viewing details are as follows
Saturday 28th August:
BBC2 Scotland and Sky channel 990 1.30pm-7pm
BBC HD channel 5pm-7pm
Streamed live on the BBC website
Available for viewing on BBC i player
Viewing details are as follows
Saturday 28th August:
BBC2 Scotland and Sky channel 990 1.30pm-7pm
BBC HD channel 5pm-7pm
Streamed live on the BBC website
Available for viewing on BBC i player
Dolomite Cross 2010, 2nd day
2nd day, 26.8.2010
Today we started shortly after a great sunrise from the Maurer-Berghütte. The magnificient Peitlerkofel was in swirling clouds. Via Würzjoch (1987 m) we walked to the Peitlerkofel and went up to the summit on the ferrata. Great weather with superb scenery: from Großglockner to Zillertaler Alpen and the Ortler area. After that we went down to the Schlüter-Hütte (hut; 2297 m), took a meal there and hiked on a long trail beneath the mountains around the Geisler-Gruppe (massif) to the Regensburger Hütte (2037) on their southern side. Here we will sleep the second night. Tomorrow we will try the Libanov-Pfeiler (pillar) in the Geisler-Gruppe. We are feeling very well though today we again have walked approximately 1700 vertical meters and 23 kolometers of distance.
Tag 2, 26.8.2010
Heute früh sind wir kurz nach einem super Sonnenaufgang von der Maurer-Berghütte gestartet. Um den prachtvoll dastehenden Peitlerkofel zogen noch Nebelschwaden. Übers Würzjoch sind wir zum Peitlerkofel gegangen und via Klettersteig hochgestiegen. Super Wetter mit perfekter Fernsicht vom Großglockner über die Zillertaler Alpen bis zum Ortlergebiet. Wir sind dann abgestiegen zur Schlüterhütte, haben dort Mittag gemacht und sind in einer langen Höhenwanderung um die Geislergruppe herum zur Regensburger Hütte (2037 m) auf deren Südseite gewandert. Hier werden wir unsere zweite Nacht verbringen. Morgen probieren wir den Libanov-Pfeiler in der Geislergruppe. Uns geht es supergut, obwohl wir heute wieder etwa 1700 Höhenmeter und 23 Kilometer Wegstrecke gelaufen sind.
Today we started shortly after a great sunrise from the Maurer-Berghütte. The magnificient Peitlerkofel was in swirling clouds. Via Würzjoch (1987 m) we walked to the Peitlerkofel and went up to the summit on the ferrata. Great weather with superb scenery: from Großglockner to Zillertaler Alpen and the Ortler area. After that we went down to the Schlüter-Hütte (hut; 2297 m), took a meal there and hiked on a long trail beneath the mountains around the Geisler-Gruppe (massif) to the Regensburger Hütte (2037) on their southern side. Here we will sleep the second night. Tomorrow we will try the Libanov-Pfeiler (pillar) in the Geisler-Gruppe. We are feeling very well though today we again have walked approximately 1700 vertical meters and 23 kolometers of distance.
Tag 2, 26.8.2010
Heute früh sind wir kurz nach einem super Sonnenaufgang von der Maurer-Berghütte gestartet. Um den prachtvoll dastehenden Peitlerkofel zogen noch Nebelschwaden. Übers Würzjoch sind wir zum Peitlerkofel gegangen und via Klettersteig hochgestiegen. Super Wetter mit perfekter Fernsicht vom Großglockner über die Zillertaler Alpen bis zum Ortlergebiet. Wir sind dann abgestiegen zur Schlüterhütte, haben dort Mittag gemacht und sind in einer langen Höhenwanderung um die Geislergruppe herum zur Regensburger Hütte (2037 m) auf deren Südseite gewandert. Hier werden wir unsere zweite Nacht verbringen. Morgen probieren wir den Libanov-Pfeiler in der Geislergruppe. Uns geht es supergut, obwohl wir heute wieder etwa 1700 Höhenmeter und 23 Kilometer Wegstrecke gelaufen sind.
Thursday, 26 August 2010
The Perfect Line - Dolomiten Cross 2010
After the huge success of the Ski Transalp expedition in 2009. Mountain Equipment pro partner and professional photographer Bernd Ritschel and his team set out on their next adventure "The Perfect Line"
Bernd tells us more
" Four of us intend to cross the Dolomites at their widest point, from north to south, in the region of the Dolomites high altitude trail no. 1. Roughly: between Vintl and Feltre.
Our motto is the same as it was for our successful Skitransalp expedition – "Fun rather than speed".
This expedition is not about records and superlatives. It's all about sharing an authentic experience with good friends and reliving the experience with others through media coverage and in a series of lectures.
We are planning to climb the following routes: Furchetta North Face (alternatively Sas Rigais North Face), Langkofel North Face, Sella, Marmolada South Face Solda Route (alternatively West Ridge), Cimone della Pala North West ridge, Cima della Madonna The Veil's Edge, etc. .......
The expedition will cover: - approx. 140 km on footpaths and high altitude trails. - approx. 6,000 m climbing on II to VI grade routes. - approx. 5,000 m on Via Ferratas. - We expect the expedition to last 15 to 18 days."
The team will be sending us regular updates by phone on their 18 day epic in both English and German the first of which you can see below
1st day, 25.08.10
Our first day on the road. The weather is comparatively well, only some clouds and agreeable temperatures. Today we walked from Vintl (near the exit of the Pustertal) to the Maurer-Berghütte (mountain hut; 2130 m) above Würzjoch, that was about 25 kilometer und 1800 vertical meter on a really nice scenic way (where you get first impressions of the Dolomites). We sat on the terrace of the hut and have a look to the Peitlerkofel (2875 m) in the Naturpark Puez-Geisler.
The north face is still wet because of torrential rain last night. So we decided to do without the planned climb.
Tomorrow we will go from south via the ferrata to the Peitlerkofel. As the northern walls are all wet we have chosen the Libanov Pillar, named according to a well known French climber, on the southern side of the Geisler-Gruppe as climbing destination for the day after tomorrow.
Tag 1, 25.08.10
Wir sind den ersten Tag unterwegs. Das Wetter ist relativ gut, nur ein paar Wolken und angenehme Temperaturen. Wir sind heute von Vintl (756 m; nahe dem Ausgang des Pustertals) zur Maurer-Berghütte (2130 m) oberhalb vom Würzjoch gelaufen, das sind 25 Kilometer und 1800 Höhenmeter auf einem wunderschönen Höhenweg (wo man erste Eindrücke der Dolomiten erhält). Wir sitzen gerade auf der Hüttenterrasse und schauen rüber auf den Peitlerkofel (2875 m) im Naturpark Puez-Geisler.
Die Nordwand ist noch nass von dem Starkregen letzte Nacht. Wir haben uns deshalb entschlossen, auf die geplante Klettertour zu verzichten. Morgen gehen wir von Süden über den Klettersteig auf den Peitlerkofel. Und da die Nordwände nass sind, haben wir uns für übermorgen den Libanov-Pfeiler, benannt nach einem berühmten französischen Kletterer, auf der Südseite der Geislergruppe als nächstes Kletterziel ausgesucht.
You can also check the website/blog out here
Tuesday, 24 August 2010
BBC Live Climb - The Great Climb Trailer
Head to the below link to view the trailer for "The Great Climb" hitting our screens this Saturday
Click here
Click here
New Autumn/Winter 2010 Range live on the website
Our New and Updated Autumn/Winter 2010 range is now live on the website.
Andy Turner, Cracking Up (IX,9) North Wales
Head to the site here
Andy Turner, Cracking Up (IX,9) North WalesHead to the site here
Monday, 23 August 2010
GORE-TEX® Experience Tour - Entries Open Today
Entries open today for two people to win a place on a week long trek through Knoydart, Scotland under the tutelage of Cameron McNeish. The whole expedition, which is the second to be launched as part of the GORE-TEX® Experience Tour, will be filmed by Richard Else.
Cameron McNeish - Wilderness expert After 5 days under the expert guidance of Cameron, the two winners will set off on their own kitted out in Mountain Equipment and record their experiences on video. This is a great opportunity for people who already have an interest in the outdoors to increase their knowledge and understanding of the countryside. The event will take place from 26th October – 2nd November'10.
For application form and more details of the trek click here
Applications are also still open to win a place on Ines Papert’s Himalayan expedition details of which are available on the same page.
Friday, 20 August 2010
BBC Live Climb - goes live in just over a week
Mountain Equipment Pro partner Dave MacLeod and fellow climber Tim Emmett will be aired live on the BBC as they tackle a new route on Sron Uladale on the Isle of Harris, the crux of which Dave reckons could be as hard as E9 with a mix of E6 and E7 on the other six pitches of the route.
the route
Dave along with fellow Mountain Equipment Pro Partner Brian Hall (who as well as having a world class mountaineering CV also works on Mountain safety for Film & TV) have spent around a week on an initial recce of the crag, selecting the route and another week checking the details and logistics for what Dave says will be 'a mind-boggling adventure'
Brian on the recce
The programme will also feature a world record bid by 2 climbers as they attempt to ascend five world-class routes in the Outer Hebrides in just five days.
The climb will be broadcast live on Saturday, 28 August’10 between 13.30 and 19.00 on BBC2 Scotland and Sky Channel 990.
It's also going to be showing nationally on the BBC HD channel between 17.00 and 1900.
photos - Dave MacLeod Collection
the routeDave along with fellow Mountain Equipment Pro Partner Brian Hall (who as well as having a world class mountaineering CV also works on Mountain safety for Film & TV) have spent around a week on an initial recce of the crag, selecting the route and another week checking the details and logistics for what Dave says will be 'a mind-boggling adventure'
Brian on the recceThe programme will also feature a world record bid by 2 climbers as they attempt to ascend five world-class routes in the Outer Hebrides in just five days.
The climb will be broadcast live on Saturday, 28 August’10 between 13.30 and 19.00 on BBC2 Scotland and Sky Channel 990.
It's also going to be showing nationally on the BBC HD channel between 17.00 and 1900.
photos - Dave MacLeod Collection
Thursday, 19 August 2010
Fault Line Living - Iceland
Head over to the Fault Line Living site now where you can catch up with all the latest from the Team as they travel across Iceland.
www.faultlineliving.com
www.faultlineliving.com
Tuesday, 17 August 2010
Hello from Andy Parkin
Mountain Equipment Pro partner Andy Parkin has just dropped us a email with details of what he's going to be up to over the next few months.
"I was thinking of giving you a resume of my upcoming activities, its getting crazy. I have just finished the trophies for The North Face Ultra Trail run here in Chamonix, I have also sold a lot of my Tibetan paintings (Everest and Shishapangma) to Tibetans from Lhasa who run the mountain school there, They want to invite me over next year to build a large sculpture out of oxygen bottles!
Andy with one of his base camp paintings - Langtang, Nepal
I am then invited to Iran this autumn to do new routes and a cultural festival. After that Kendal Mountain Film Festival of course and then I go to Nepal to do workshops or a large sculpture in Kathmandu, I will then go climbing in the Khumbu again, a different valley this time, to the north towards Tibet and try two new mountains - 6223 and 6422, a bit wild this trip as I'll be alone"
You can read more about Andy at www.andyparkin.com
"I was thinking of giving you a resume of my upcoming activities, its getting crazy. I have just finished the trophies for The North Face Ultra Trail run here in Chamonix, I have also sold a lot of my Tibetan paintings (Everest and Shishapangma) to Tibetans from Lhasa who run the mountain school there, They want to invite me over next year to build a large sculpture out of oxygen bottles!
Andy with one of his base camp paintings - Langtang, Nepal I am then invited to Iran this autumn to do new routes and a cultural festival. After that Kendal Mountain Film Festival of course and then I go to Nepal to do workshops or a large sculpture in Kathmandu, I will then go climbing in the Khumbu again, a different valley this time, to the north towards Tibet and try two new mountains - 6223 and 6422, a bit wild this trip as I'll be alone"
You can read more about Andy at www.andyparkin.com
Monday, 16 August 2010
North Wales Western Kokshaal -Too 2010 - Substitution
Unfortunately Keith Ball was unable to join Matt on the expedition as mentioned in Fridays post, due to other commitments - therefore Dave Rudkin has stepped in.
Dave
Dave is a full time guide and works at Plas y Brenin and has climbed extensively in the likes of Patagonia and Pakistan.
Matt and Dave flew out on from Heathrow on Saturday. We expect to hear more from them later in the week.
DaveDave is a full time guide and works at Plas y Brenin and has climbed extensively in the likes of Patagonia and Pakistan.
Matt and Dave flew out on from Heathrow on Saturday. We expect to hear more from them later in the week.
Friday, 13 August 2010
North Wales Western Kokshaal-Too 2010
Mountain Equipment are proud to announce our support of Keith Ball and Matt Stygall and their expedition to Fersmana Valley, Kyrgyzstan.
Keith and Matt
Matt and Keith both have a vast amount of expedition experience and have climbed extensively in Patagonia, Alaska, Alps to name a few, on top of that they are both full times guides and work at Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre in North Wales.
Keith and Matt tell us more......
"We will fly from London to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan via Moscow. Purchase supplies and meet with in-country agent, ITCM in Bishkek. Travel southwards overland by six wheel truck and establish a base camp in upper reaches of Fersmana valley. Establish advanced base camp on the Fersmana glacier by foot. We intend to explore the peaks surrounding the Fersmana glacier, many of which are currently unclimbed and present excellent mountaineering objectives. Our main aim is to make the first ascent of Byeliy (5697m) the highest peak in the area of the range. This offers several possible lines, two of which have had significant previous attempts.The nearby peak of Granitsa (Border Peak 5370m) has an awesome looking north face that has many potential lines on it and still awaits a first ascent. We intend to climb alpine style, using the minimum of aid, ideally none!
The North Face of Granitsa
Return overland to Bishkek and fly home.Total duration: 15th August to 12th September 2010
This trip is extremely exploratory in nature; the Upper Fersmana glacier is seldom visited by mountaineering expeditions and has a great deal of first ascent potential. The peak of Byeliy (5697m) is the highest unclimbed summit in the area, Granitsa (5370m) has a north face that is an alpinists dream!
This expedition will allow us to transfer our Scottish and alpine experience to the Greater Ranges and hopefully make some notable British first ascents. We believe that a small team alpine style approach will be effective, giving us the flexibility to make the most of the weather and conditions."
Keith and Matt will be blogging on here while they're away so check back for more info soon.
The North Wales Western Kokshaal-too 2010 expedition is also supported by the Mark Clifford Mountain Grant - applications for 2011 awards are currently being accepted, for more information click here
Keith and MattMatt and Keith both have a vast amount of expedition experience and have climbed extensively in Patagonia, Alaska, Alps to name a few, on top of that they are both full times guides and work at Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre in North Wales.
Keith and Matt tell us more......
"We will fly from London to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan via Moscow. Purchase supplies and meet with in-country agent, ITCM in Bishkek. Travel southwards overland by six wheel truck and establish a base camp in upper reaches of Fersmana valley. Establish advanced base camp on the Fersmana glacier by foot. We intend to explore the peaks surrounding the Fersmana glacier, many of which are currently unclimbed and present excellent mountaineering objectives. Our main aim is to make the first ascent of Byeliy (5697m) the highest peak in the area of the range. This offers several possible lines, two of which have had significant previous attempts.The nearby peak of Granitsa (Border Peak 5370m) has an awesome looking north face that has many potential lines on it and still awaits a first ascent. We intend to climb alpine style, using the minimum of aid, ideally none!
The North Face of GranitsaReturn overland to Bishkek and fly home.Total duration: 15th August to 12th September 2010
This trip is extremely exploratory in nature; the Upper Fersmana glacier is seldom visited by mountaineering expeditions and has a great deal of first ascent potential. The peak of Byeliy (5697m) is the highest unclimbed summit in the area, Granitsa (5370m) has a north face that is an alpinists dream!
This expedition will allow us to transfer our Scottish and alpine experience to the Greater Ranges and hopefully make some notable British first ascents. We believe that a small team alpine style approach will be effective, giving us the flexibility to make the most of the weather and conditions."
Keith and Matt will be blogging on here while they're away so check back for more info soon.
The North Wales Western Kokshaal-too 2010 expedition is also supported by the Mark Clifford Mountain Grant - applications for 2011 awards are currently being accepted, for more information click here
Thursday, 12 August 2010
John Muir Trust - Wild Land Campaign
The John Muir Trust is campaigning for a new environmental designation for wild land in Scotland, and for the expansion and creation of National Parks and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, as areas of land largely unaffected by human intervention are being rapidly depleted throughout the country.
Wild land is essential to wildlife, the economy and our well-being. However, in recent years it has come under unprecedented pressures from inappropriate developments, including roads, power lines and poorly sited wind developments. According to Scottish Natural Heritage, the amount of land in Scotland unaffected by visual intrusion from built development was cut from 41% to 31% between 2002 and 2008.
to find out more, show your support and sign the petition click here
Wednesday, 11 August 2010
British Tahu Ratum Expedition - Update part 2
Due to the continued rain Tom, Hamish and Luke have been stuck in their tents for the past 6 days since reaching base camp and therefore unable to climb. You can read the latest posts from the guys sent via Sat phone over at their blog now here
As I'm sure you will have seen on the international news over the last week Pakistan has seen devastating weather conditions. The deluge of rain has effected around 14 million people across the country - more info here
Due to the severity of this disaster a national appeal has been setup by DEC click here for information and how to make a donation from the UK.
As I'm sure you will have seen on the international news over the last week Pakistan has seen devastating weather conditions. The deluge of rain has effected around 14 million people across the country - more info here
Due to the severity of this disaster a national appeal has been setup by DEC click here for information and how to make a donation from the UK.
Tuesday, 10 August 2010
DAV Expedition Team
Mountain Equipment is proud to announce our continued support of the DAV expedition team.
The idea behind the Expedition Team is to take some of the finest young alpinists in Germany and train and prepare them for the hardest routes and peaks through an extensive and exciting 3-year programme.
The 2012 Team is made up of climbers aged between 17 and 23 years old, the team are –
Mirko Breckner
Sebastian Brutscher
Dario Haselwarter
Max Dünßer
Reinhard Hones
Felix Sattelberger
After the launch of the New 2012 Expedition Team at OutDoor 2010 (European tradeshow for outdoor retail) back in July, the guys had their first outing as a team - a weeks training in the Dolomite's with their coach David Göttler and guest assistant team manager Michi Stacheder.
Moderne Zeiten (Modern times) 800m VII - South Face of MarmoladaThe team climbed a host of classic and modern routes in the Civetta Group on the likes of Torre Venezia and Trieste, despite less than perfect weather conditions.
You can find out more about the trip and the DAV Expedition team here
Wednesday, 4 August 2010
Greenland Icecap Challenge
Mountain Equipment are proud to announce our support of the Greenland Ice Cap Challenge brought to you by Mountain Equipment Pro partners Tarka and Katie-Jane L'Herpiniere.
In May 2011 the first ever Greenland Icecap Challenge is taking place. This extreme Arctic race is set to be a grueling epic challenge for those who want to push themselves to the limit both physically and mentally, join the elite few to become an Ultra Endurance Arctic Racer! Solo permits to cross Greenland are forbidden, however for the first time Greenland authorities have agreed to issue a race permit that allows solo unsupported crossings of the world’s second largest icecap.
This unique event is a 540km race where competitors will complete a full traverse of the icecap, a highly acclaimed feat amongst the world of polar explorers and adventurers. Competitors will race for up to 27 days in one of the most inhospitable environments in the world. Temperatures fall as low as -35(excluding wind chill) as competitors, navigate, ski and haul up to 75kg sledges over the frozen terrain. In a bid to be the first to cross the finish line, competitors will need to cross through crevasse fields, protect themselves from some of the fiercest winds in the world and of course always keep an eye open for polar bears. The route will follow an arc above the Arctic Circle from West to East. Competitors may enter as solo racers or teams made up of two, three, or four participants and have the choice of racing supported or unsupported.
Visit the site at www.greenlandicecapchallenge.com
photo: Andy Ward
In May 2011 the first ever Greenland Icecap Challenge is taking place. This extreme Arctic race is set to be a grueling epic challenge for those who want to push themselves to the limit both physically and mentally, join the elite few to become an Ultra Endurance Arctic Racer! Solo permits to cross Greenland are forbidden, however for the first time Greenland authorities have agreed to issue a race permit that allows solo unsupported crossings of the world’s second largest icecap.
This unique event is a 540km race where competitors will complete a full traverse of the icecap, a highly acclaimed feat amongst the world of polar explorers and adventurers. Competitors will race for up to 27 days in one of the most inhospitable environments in the world. Temperatures fall as low as -35(excluding wind chill) as competitors, navigate, ski and haul up to 75kg sledges over the frozen terrain. In a bid to be the first to cross the finish line, competitors will need to cross through crevasse fields, protect themselves from some of the fiercest winds in the world and of course always keep an eye open for polar bears. The route will follow an arc above the Arctic Circle from West to East. Competitors may enter as solo racers or teams made up of two, three, or four participants and have the choice of racing supported or unsupported.
Visit the site at www.greenlandicecapchallenge.com
photo: Andy Ward
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