DAV Expedition Team: Summer Camp Report

Words by Mirko (DAV Team)

During the past 2 months the guys from the DAV Expedition Team have continued to work through their extensive expedition-training programme.

Reini, Max and Sebi headed out to the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan to attempt a route on K7,  unfortunately they had to turn back on their attempt due to reasons beyond their control. Fellow team members Dario, Mirko and Felix spent the summer climbing hard routes around the Alps.

At the start of September the team converged on Courmayeur just south of Mont Blanc, with mountain guide Michi Wärthl and the Exped. team leader David Göttler.   

After spending time at the Turin hut acclimatising the guys then headed out on their various objectives:

Reini and Michi climbed L’élixir d‘Astaroth  (7a+ , A1, 400m) on the Grand Capucin (3838 m)

Sebi and Felix climbed the Bonatti route (6a, A1, 550m).

Max on Dent de Geant

Mirko, Dario and David headed to the Gervasutti Pillar, Mont Blanc de Tacul. When they arrived they were surprised to find a vast amount of rock debris on the glacier and noticed that the first pitch of their route was damaged. So they then walked to the other side of the glacier and climbed the Direct South (6c, 7 pitches) on the Dent de Geant (4013m).

The following day a well acclimatised Mirko, Reini, Felix and David trekked from the camp ground to the Monzino hut (2590 m), then the foLlowing day on to the Eccles bivouac (4041 m) before then climbing the Freney pillar (6-,A0, 800m). On the summit of Mont Blanc there was strong winds and snow, so it was not so easy to find the way in the white out.

Reini, Felix, Mirko and Max on Summit of Mont Blanc

Dario, Max, Sebi and Michi wanted to try the Gervasutti Route (6c+, A2, 750m) on the east face of Grand Jorasses, but the conditions were really poor due too high temperatures. So they descended back to the valley and the following day climbed at the Chandelle de Tacul.

Next the team head to the High Tatra in Eastern Europe for Winter Camp.

Felix on Freney Pillar

DE:

Die letzten Monate waren die Jungs vom Expedkader privat unterwegs. Reini, Max und Sebi waren im Charakusa Valley in Pakistan und versuchten dort eine Tour am K7, welche sie jedoch auf Grund diverser Probleme abbrechen mussten. Dario, Mirko und Felix kletterten schwere Touren in West- und Ostalpen.

Für September war das lang ersehnte Sommercamp im Mont Blanc Massiv geplant. Als Talort wurde Courmayeur auf der Südseite des Massivs gewählt. Das Team wurde dabei von Expeditionsbergsteiger und Bergführer Michi Wärthl unterstützt.

Zur Akklimatisation übernachtete der Kader auf der Refugio Torino. Am nächsten Tag kletterten Reini und Michi die L’élixir d‘Astaroth  (7a+, A1, 400m) am Grand Capucin (3838 m), Sebi und Felix kletterten ebenfalls dort die Bonatti Führe (6a, A1, 550m).

Mirko, Dario, Max und David wollten sich am Gervasutti Pfeiler am Mont Blanc de Tacul akklimatisieren, wunderten sich im Zustieg über viele Blöcke in der Größe von Telefonzellen und fanden den Einstieg nicht, bis es um 5.30 Uhr hell wurde und sie erkannten dass sie im Zustieg über die Überreste der ersten Seillänge liefen.  So entschieden sie sich an den Dent de Geant (4013m) zu gehen und  kletterten dort die Direkte Südwand (6c, 7 SL). 

Mirko and Felix approach the Eccles bivouac

Gut akklimatisiert starteten Mirko, Reini, Felix und David vom Campingplatz aus zur Monzino Hütte (2590 m), am nächsten Tag zum Eccles Biwak (4041 m) und kletterten am dritten Tag den Freney Pfeiler (6-, A0, 800m). Aufgrund einer aufziehenden Kaltfront mussten sie ihre Leidensfähigkeit unter Beweis stellten, als sie um halb acht abends im Schneesturm und „white out“ den Gipfel des Mont Blanc erreichten.

Dario, Max, Sebi und Michi nahmen sich als Ziel die Gervasutti Route (6c+, A2, 750m) durch die Ostwand der Grandes Jorasses zu klettern. Im ersten Licht starteten sie vom Tal aus über den Gletscher zum Col de Hirondelles und kletterten auf dem Hirondelles Grat bis auf fast 3700 m um von dort zu der Ostwand zu queren. Jedoch war aufgrund der hohen Temperaturen der Bereich stark ausgeapert und extrem brüchig, was ein Queren zu gefährlich machte. So stiegen sie noch am selben Tag die 2100 Hm wieder ins Tal ab.

Reini, Felix, and Mirko on Summit of Mont Blanc

Am nächsten Tag nahmen sie wieder die Bahn zur Turiner Hütte und kletterten an der Chandelle de Tacul und am Piller Surprise.

Nach einer lustigen, sportlichen und abenteuerlichen Woche in den Westalpen kehrte der Expedkader nach Hause zurück und freut sich bereits auf das nächste Trainingscamp im Winter in der Hohen Tatra.

British Cordillera Carabaya Expedition: Report

Friend of the brand Tom Ripley has just mailed in this report from the sucessful British Cordillera Carabaya Expedition... 

Chichicapac South Face with our line marked in red

"Hamish Dunn and I have just returned from a successful expedition to the Cordillera Carabaya, a remote and relatively unexplored mountain range in Southern Peru.

Hamish with a laden donkey

After four days acclimatizing in Puno we arrived in Macusani, the nearest town to the range, to discover that nobody spoke English or understood our limited Spanish. We were lucky to bump into Daniel, a Spanish catholic priest on a year’s exchange, who spoke good English. After much explaining he finally understood where we wanted to go. (we had been unable to locate a map to the area in Lima!) He kindly drove us and our gear to the end of the nearest road and arranged for two donkey’s to carry all our gear, to the edge of Laguna Chambine, where we planned to camp.

Our bivi tent. We descended the glacier behind. The South face is out of sight behind the ridge on the right.

After acclimatizing sufficiently and making a reconnaissance of the face we returned to base camp and sat out a period of bad weather. On August 22 we made the first ascent of our main objective the South Face of Chichicapac. The most obvious line up the face was threatened by seracs, so we climbed a direct line up the centre of the face, encountering sustained and insecure mixed climbing, until the top headwall forced us leftwards. A short, but very loose rock chimney led us to the top part of the face. A long tricky pitch, followed by easier but very loose terrain, led to an easy snow slope and the summit plateau.

Tom leading low down on the face

Hamish leading the very loose chimney.

Having spent ten hours on the face we summited just before five that evening. Anxious to descend in daylight (sunset is at 5:30) we quickly descended the West ridge, before making a short abseil onto a small glacier that lead us to back to our bivi tent.

Hamish (left) and Tom on the summit

Being in the Southern Hemisphere conditions on Chichicapac’s south face were similar to those that would be found on a European north face. The majority of the face was mixed climbing, involving powder snow on loose rock. The difficulties were quite sustained and most of the pitches were about Scottish IV/V with a couple of crux pitches of VI. The rock was generally terrible and protection sparse. Our route is 700 metres long with an overall alpine grade of TD.


We would like to thank The Alpine Club, British Mountaineering Council and Mount Everest Foundation. Without their financial support the expedition would not have take place."

Hoy - Update 1

The guys have been sending the first reports/pictures out from Hoy. Heres a few pictures from yesterday.... 

you can read all the latest reports over at the guy's blogs -

Lukasz Warzecha's blog: http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/
Dave MacLeod's blog: http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/
Andy Turner's blog: http://andyturnerclimbing.blogspot.com/
Paul Diffley blog: http://www.hotaches.com

All photos Lukasz Warzecha

Kyashar 2011 Expedition - Andy's thoughts

ME Pro partner Andy Houseman has just posted "Snow, snow and more snow in the Hinku" with more amazing pictures and his thoughts on the Kyashar expedition, you can check that out at his blog here

Andy leaving the belay for the final pitch

If you haven't already checked it out you can see fellow ME pro partner Nick Bullocks Kyashar post here

Nick approaching the bivi boulder after 18 hours on the go

Kyashar 2011 Expedition - Back in Kathmandu

I've had a few emails in today from ME Pro partners Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman who are currently out in Kathmandu waiting on a flight back to the UK after their attempt on Kyashar. 

You can read a great post expedition piece "Balloons,Kathmandu" by Nick over at his blog here

a few photos from which are below

All photos Bullock/Houseman

Baggy Reports: 18 New Routes in 4 Days

Baggy reports on whats been a truely amazing 4 days for new routes over in North Wales

Baggy....

"The greatest spell for new routes in the History of North Wales... Wow! 18 New routes in 4 days
This has to be a record for North Wales surely? So many new routes in such a short period of time. The buzz is fantastic here in North Wales and conditions keep building its never ending. Between Friday 3rd and Monday 6th December all these routes have been climbed.

Baggy on George IV-4

Gaz Davies and myself climbed 3 new routes. These routes were all turfy based and relatively short at 2 pitches each. The one route in particular, The Capstone Heel Hook V-7 * 90m V-7 gave a very interesting crux with little gear, as the cams and hex’s we required were in the van! The other two routes were George IV-4 * 105m and Turf Stomp IV-4 60M

Jon Ratcliffe opened his winter account on alongside Tim Badcock. They climbed a new mixed 2-pitch line V, 5 on good turf, hooks and torques. According to Jon this is at another crag X.

Gaz Davies, Dave Simpson and Paul James climbed The Whiskey Made Me Late V-6. Also Tom Morris and Will McCormack climbed Don't Forget Your Sole III. Another team Dave Almond, Neil Griffiths and Adam Crook went up Third Trinity Groove at VII-7. All these routes were done in Cwm Lloer.

Rich Cross and Dave Hollinger came over form Sheffield They managed to squeeze another new route in on the ladders The Great Escape VI-7

Geoff Bennett takes up his part of the action

Yes he's at it again Chris Parkin, Mike Pycroft & myself headed for the Ladders for some new route action towards Ice Fall Gully area. Between Sarajevo & Ice Fall Gully (Left Hand) are a number of enticing grooves. 2nd groove (a deep one) right of Sarajevo (where Chris' in situ belay sling from 1990s was still hanging!) is now Forlorn Hope 55m VI 5 a somewhat lonely & scary lead for my first this year! Next groove to the right is now Mostar V 5 50m, Chris's lead. A more amenable & perhaps enjoyable route worthy of a star!

Rich stone shows no sign of letting up; maybe he is in competition with Chris Parkin? He bagged another five new lines, a V-7, a V-5, Philistine V 7, The Sling V 5, and the Stone
V- 6,

In Cwm Idwal a new second pitch for Chicane was added V 5 by Misha and Tom Jumar

Chris Guest and partner added a route to Cyrn Las and Gaz Davies claimed yet another new route on Y Garn.

Where will this all end. Just think if the winter lasts till the end of MARCH as last season. How many new routes? We need a new guide surely."

Keep up to date with all the latest over at Baggys blog here

Baggy Reports - How can I sleep at night

Latest report from Baggy to get you psyched for this weekend

"How can I sleep at night? its a Frenzy out there....
I did say there would be more to come and its now on a daily basis. There are certainly plenty of psyched climbers out there.

VariErrant VI-7

Lee Roberts reports in

“ Stu and I blasted to Glyder Fach (aka Baggy's Crag) and did that route you had in mind, you snooze you loose! We thought it was brill, 3 stars in my book. 3 contrasting pitches all with pretty decent gear but quite tricky climbing. All pitches pumpy.

VariErrant VI 7

It starts left of Arch Gully and is based on the summer Errant Route. The last pitch (variation to the summer route) follows the obvious right-hand turfy corner as far a possible and then a delicate traverse left on tiny edges to a right facing groove. Mega. Called it VariErrant as in Variant. I thought about VI 7 but I'm probably miles out cos its my first route this season.

Baggy you’re getting everyone well psyched! Wow! What conditions and our new route is fantastic! I was dispatched off the middle crack pitch, which Lee promptly put to rights! Keep cranking Stu Stanley

Guns of Navarone VII 7

Not ones for missing out ? as if ? Tim Neil and Chris Parkin have been busy yet again. Tim reports

Guns of Navarone VII 7

“Guns of Navarone VII 7, This exciting much eyed line linking with Polar Bear has been on our list for some years. Thursday, we decided to give it a go. It gave 2 hard pitches with us both taking a pitch each. It proved tricky but thankfully not as hard as we first thought, should have got on it years ago.

Arch Gully Variant V-6

“ Wednesday a trip to Glyder Fach proved a good choice. With the crag well rimed we took the obvious slot left of Arch Chimney and just right of Out to Lunch (spiral variant). This joined Arch Gully at some bongo flakes before a thrutchy slot. Makes the route a similar standard to the top pitch but all the way up. Chris and I thought this was a 3 star winter outing.” Simon Panton view “Arch Gully saw its first winter ascent in 2008 by Mark ‘Baggy’ Richards, Owen Samuels and Rocio Seimens. It is an excellent route with a stunning top pitch” (V12 editor’s top tip: send your tall mate up this pitch as the last move is a big stretch.) More details visit V12 News.


Oblique Gully V-6

Kath Bromfield, Paul James and Gaz Davies made the most of the current rime found on many of the crags to claim the first winter ascent of on Oblique Gully on Glyder Fach. This goes at V -6 and 2 stars and has been eyed up by Baggy over recent years but has never rimed up.

I said in my last post there would be more come, I never thought this much and it is not even the weekend. With the forecast looking great then stay tuned baggy"

Keep up date with all the latest at Baggy's Blog here

Baggy Reports - New Route Fever Grabs North Wales

"Wales is Ace" is how Baggy summed up current conditions in his email to us last night, check out his latest report below...

"With current good conditions and the ever-growing psyche and enthusiasm of climbers in Wales, new routes are beginning to fall like confetti. Over the last few days the following new lines have been climbed.

Baggy and Gaz Davies climbed George 180m V-5 on Cwm Glas Bach. This being a very turfy route with a variety of styles required. It was fairly serious in places as the first pitch (30m) at III-IV had no runners and the 2nd pitch IV-V (60m) a few runners.

Chris Parkin enjoying the conditions on the Black Ladders

Chris Parkin and Tim Neil were back at the Black ladders on Tuesday, this time climbing a new line right of Arctic Fox. A very good, but bold first pitch, easier ground on 2nd pitch, an airy line on the 3rd pitch followed by 100m of easier climbing. VI-6 Another fine addition to the cliff , their second new route on the crag within the last 3 days.

Rich Stone added yet another climb to his ever growing list of new routes. He soloed a route on the far left hand side of the Ladders. Le Petite Verdun. IV 4/5 210m.A pleasant little number and high up so a good early season climb. Well protected mixed climbing of a reasonable standard on the upper arete.

Mike Frodsham and Ryan Wilson climbed a new line in the area between Ghost Arete & Pinnacle Edge on the edge of the Nameless Cwm. This line follows an exciting arête giving an airy feel. IV-4

With good conditions forecasted for at least another week, then it is only time before new routes will fall."

You can keep up to date with all the latest over at Baggy's blog here