Thursday, 24 December 2009

Wales' Hardest Winter Route

Winter climbing maestro Andy Turner, partnered by fellow Mountain Equipment Pro Partner Stuart McAleese, has repeated Nick Bullock's Cracking Up (IX 9) on Clogwyn Du with no falls. This report first appeared on the DMM website and is reproduced with their kind permission.

Nick climbed his über winter route back in February 2006 on his second visit, taking a memorable fall from high up that left him at the half-way resting niche. From here he topped out on the 45 metre overhanging pitch that effectively takes the summer line of The Crack, given E1 (2pts aid) in the current Ogwen guidebook.Andy confirmed the grade and said: "It's an amazing three star route. I had to pull harder on Sassenach [a summer E3 6a on the Ben that is also IX 9] but Cracking Up is more sustained." Like Nick, Cracking Up also took Andy two visits.

On his first attempt, with the crag veiled in cloud and swirling hail, Andy fell just below the niche with the crux behind him, after a hook unexpectedly let him down leaving him swinging in space. Lowering back to the stance and feeling tired he pulled the ropes and opted for a return visit the next day to maximise his chances of getting it in one push.
On his return, the conditions couldn't have been better. At the point where he'd previously come unstuck, he found a bomber placement over a small chockstone a few inches above the hook that had spoilt his previous day's effort .

As Andy successfully reached the belay, fighting rope drag, Rich Cross and Ian Parnell approached Stuart's stance with the intention of also making the first repeat of a Nick Bullock
route from February 2006, Travesty VIII 8. Andy and Stu got back to the foot of the crag just in time to see some gritty determination and 'power screaming' from Ian get him across the difficult first pitch after a couple of falls - one of which ended with him suspended from his elastic leash with the tool out of reach while holding the other one between his teeth!

Photo: Andy Turner making the first no-falls ascent of Cracking Up IX 9, Clogwyn Du, Ogwen. © Ray Wood

Wednesday, 23 December 2009

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you all. Hope you all have a great one and make the most of the great conditions we're having - we'll see you on the other side!

All the best The Mountain Equipment Team

Some of the Mountain Equipment Team at our recent works "Christmas" outing . I escaped this photo, but I'm sure the others won't mind : )

Friday, 18 December 2009

Avalanche Reports begin for 09/10 Season

The Sport Scotland Avalanche Information Service has resumed business for the 09/10 Winter Season.

Avalanches regularly occur in the Scottish mountains, sometimes with tragic consequences and the valuable work carried out by the SAIS undoubtably saves lives every year.

Supported by Mountain Equipment, Avalanche assessors will be out daily for the next four months, assessing snow conditions and providing daily reports for 5 of the main mountain areas in Scotland. Reports are available for Northern Cairngorms, Southern Cainrgorms, Lochaber, Glencoe and Creag Meagaidh.

In addition to the reports (which can be found at www.sais.gov.uk) assessors will also be posting daily blog reports on their days work. Live updates to these blogs can be found on our Blog updates further down this page.

Friday, 11 December 2009

Mountain Equipment Store - Manchester

If your heading into Manchester during the Christmas period make sure you head down to the New Mountain Equipment retail store on Deansgate - opened in partnership with fellow Manchester based retailer Ellis Brigham.


Thursday, 10 December 2009

Climber Jan'10


Make sure you check out the January 2010 issue of Climber Magazine. Which includes an Exclusive interview with Mountain Equipment Pro Partner Dave MacLeod.

Wednesday, 2 December 2009

AMI AGM

A sure fire bet for great weather is to be working and so it proved this weekend at Plas Y Brenin, as 100 or so Mountaineering Instructors descended on North Wales, timed to clinical perfection as the first snows of the winter fell on the mountains of North Wales.

The reason for this gathering was the annual meeting of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) and as one of the major sponsors of the association (the other one being DMM) I was duty bound to gather up the giant ME flag and do my best to wave it around.

The Association was formed some 19 years ago, and represents all professional mountaineering instructors who hold either the MIA or the MIC award. As such the weekend is a mix of important nitty gritty regarding the workings and direction of the Association as well as an opportunity for qualified instructors to gain further training and professional development in a variety of disciplines, hence the programme of workshops.

And thats where we came in again, ensuring that two of our Pro Partners (Dave Macleod and Andy Turner) would be delivering some of those workshops. For Dave that meant delivering a rock climbing masterclass session and for Andy sharing his intimate knowledge on the dark art of Dry Tooling - both focussing on personal climbing as well as coaching.

On the Saturday evening Dave also gave a lecture, one of the first he has given focussing on his massive project on St. John's Head on Orkney. After that it was to the bar, from that point the details are somewhat sketchy, but I do remember being very definitely not the last one to leave at around 1:45am.....I am told the committed professionals kept going until nearly 4am.

Tuesday, 1 December 2009

"Everest '09" Premiere - Oslo, Norway

7th December'09 sees the Premiere of “Everest 09” at Chateau Neuf, Oslo, Norway.


The documentary tells the story of Mountain Equipment Norwegian Pro Partners Lars Oma and Petter Nyquist who summated Mount Everest on 21sts May’09. After returning to Advance Base Camp they received the message that a fellow Norwegian climber hadn’t reported back after his summit attempt. The following day Lars and Petter organized a rescue party. Petter scrambled together enough money to hire the best and strongest sherpas for the rescue attempt. The team of Sherpas managed to find Climber Jarle Traa in the “dead zone” just below the summit of Everest miraculously he was still alive, however was suffering from severe frostbite and hypothermia after spending the night exposed at altitude. Lars a trained medical doctor managed to stabilized Jarle at a higher camp so he could be carried off Everest.

Everest 09 will then go out prime time on mainstream Norwegian television later in Dec’09 check back here for the link to watch online.

For more info go to


http://www.everest09.no/
http://www.billetservice.no/


Picture – Jarle being carried down from Everest by Yak - to get the warmth back into Jarle, Petter and Lars used their Mountain Equipment Redline downsuit and mitts.