Pinnacle Night - ME Store, Manchester

Details for our next event at the Mountain Equipment Store, Deansgate, Manchester featuring ME Pro partner Andy Turner. Click the flyer below for more information and details on how to register for this free event...  

Harry's Arctic Heroes - BBC One

If you happen to be watching the second part of Harry's Arctic Heroes on BBC One tonight at 9pm then make sure you keep your eyes peeled for friend of the brand and series producer/director Alexis Girardet.

Alexis and the Twofour production team used our Kongur and Greenland jackets while filming the documentary that charts the extraordinary attempt by four severely-injured Afghan veterans as they aim to complete their unsupported trek to the North Pole.

Alexis (on Camera) filming Prince Harry during his time on the expedition

Twofour Team at the Pole

If you missed the first episode you can view it on BBC iplayer

You can also check out other programmes that the Twofour Team have been working on here  

Stanage on a bank holiday....

I had some time to climb on Sunday afternoon, but where to go?
The mixed weather on Sunday gave me hope that an exposed windy spot would dry quickly from any showers that passed meaning a good afternoons climbing could be had even if it wasn't consistantly dry.
With it being a bank holiday a not too popular spot would be good. Also, I was all out of climbing partners, losing out to: house moving, N. Wales (x2) and the Cricket.

Hoping to avoid the crowds it seemed a good opportunity for a soloing day at the far left of Stanage. I was a bit inspired by John Long's tales of having 'an El Cap' day at Joshua tree where he and John Bachar would try to solo 2900 feet of rock in a day. I thought it would fun to try to climb as much rock as possible without being too bothered about exactly which routes or how hard they are . I thought it would be good to start at climb number 1 (in the 1989 guide, the one with Johnny Dawes on the cover) and work eastwards climbing every route I could solo.

High Neb in sun and shadow on the walk up

The first few routes were a tad green but I dragged my self up them being blown about in the wind, wondering what I had let myself in for.
It wasn't long though before I was cruising up a lot of top notch gritstone kept in great nick thanks to the buffeting wind, mostly diffs to severes with the odd harder route as well. It was great fun to get stuck into quite a few chimneys that normally I wouldn't look twice at, from the tight offwidth thrutching of Boomerang Chimney to full back and footing up Manhatten Chimney. There were a few high ball boulder problem routes and a lot of mileage.

Self portrait near the top of Richards Sister, Severe, round the corner from the Marble Wall area.

I ground to a halt after the Crow Chin buttress having climbed 29 routes for a total of 249m of climbing. Tired. I'm pretty keen on the idea of working along the edge soloing everything easy but it might be the work of the lifetime, or at least a longtime.

 

Comfy climbing boots, cotton Echo pants (out next spring) and an Arrow half zip. Pefect for a windy cool day moving fast, ish on the grit. I don't like writing about product, but I was wearing them for the purpose I designed them for and they were really good. As a designer you can't ask for more than that..

British Cordillera Carabaya Expedition: Success

Just had a short email in from friend of the brand Tom Ripley who is currently out in the Cordillera Carabaya, Peru. Both he and Hamish Dunn have successfully bagged the first ascent of the South Face of Chichicapac (5614m) The guys climbed through pitches of Scottish V 4 and a couple of crux's at VI 5 and topped out at 5pm on 22nd August'11. 

S Face of Chichicapac (5614m)

We'll have a full report and images from the guys when their back in the UK mid September.

Dave MacLeod: Bongo Bar First Free Ascent

More great footage and images coming in from the GORE-TEX Experience Tour Norway team.
ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod has just bagged the first free ascent of "Bongo Bar" on Blamman. You can view the video and Dave's latest post here, also make sure you checkout the latest posts from Paul DiffleyHotaches here and G.E.T finalist Julia here.      

Dave on the first free ascent of Bongo Bar, Blamman, Norway. 400m, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b. 

Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions.

Lukasz visit

Friend of the brand and professional photographer Lukasz Warzecha swung by ME HQ yesterday to give us a quick update on what he's been up to over the past few weeks and also his plans for the fast approaching winter. Last week Lukasz was out shooting ME Pro partner Nick Bullock over at Gogarth, a few snaps from which you can see over at his blog here  

Nick over at Gogarth last week

There are also a few places still available for Lukasz's photography workshops at Plas y Brenin on 30th Sept. – 2nd October'11 not only will you be able to learn tricks of the trade from Lukasz but ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod will be on hand to act as subject over the course of the workshop, more information available here - be quick as spaces are limited!

       
Lukasz will also be lecturing at the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival at Ratho on Thursday 6th October'11 so make sure you come along and check him out. Tickets available here 

A Year of Microadventure

Friend of the brand, explorer and Scott 2012 team member Al Humphreys is currently working through his latest project a "Year of Microadventure".

Al tells us more.....

"2011 is the Year of Microadventure a whole year when, instead of exotic foreign adventures, I am committed to trying to encourage people to get outside, get out of their comfort zone, go somewhere they’ve never been, go on a microadventure. An adventure that is close to home, cheap, simple, short, and yet very effective.


The aim is to build them up gradually in order that absolutely everyone can get involved and progress from novices to doing something relatively gnarly by the end of the year. Have a look at the videos and blog entries here, then commit to your own microadventure."

Heres the video of Al's latest Microadventure No 8 - River Swim 



You check out more information about Al's past/future Microadventures here

Al will also be lecturing at this Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival on Sunday 9th October'11 tickets for which are now available here (tickets are selling fast so make sure your quick!)    

Andy Parkin Sculptures

We've just had a few photos in from professional photographer and friend of the brand John Norris of ME Pro partner Andy Parkin working on his latest set of sculptures for the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc, all of which are made from recycled copper and brass recovered from the mountains. You can view all the photos that John has taken over at John's facebook page here, make sure you add him as a "like" while your there too.    

Andy at work photo John Norris

GORE TEX Experience Tour: Day 2

Few more pics from the guys in Norway

GORE TEX Experience Tour: Day One

The first report and pictures have come in from ME Pro Dave MacLeod and the team who are currently out in Norway on Dave's GORE TEX Experience Tour. Few photos from which are below

You can read more at Dave's blog here

There are also further photos at the Hot aches Facebook page here  

Nick Bullock: The Frumious Bandersnatch. E7 6c

Head over to Nick's blog here where you can check out his report on the new route "The Frumious Bandersnatch" E7 6c. Fallen Block Zawn, Rhoscolyn.

Nick on The Frumious Bandersnatch E7 6c

Fifty years of Excellence

Well its finally here.... the 50th celebrations are now underway, headover to the website where you'll find our specially commisioned film "50 Years in the Mountains" put together by our friends Brian Hall and Keith Partridge of Venture Films alongside our NEW AW11 range.


Click here to check it out!

Dave MacLeod Interview on 4-seasons TV

I mentioned this interview with ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod a few weeks ago while we were out at OutDoor 2011 well here it is..... 4 Seasons TV

Photography Workshops with Lukasz Warzecha

Friend of the brand and professional photographer Lukasz Warzecha is running a set of photography workshops with special guest subject Dave MacLeod.

Lukasz on the Crux pitch of The Long Hope Route, while shooting ME Pro partners Dave MacLeod & Andy Turner 

Lukasz tells us more: "For me personally, photography has been always about sharing images… but for the first time I get a chance to share with you even more.
Being asked over and over again about my own photography workshops I have decided to finally give you all the best we’ve got here…


A skilful photographer (yours truly, our safety and location guru (Ruth Taylor) and my top assistant (Matt) all yours for the whole weekend! And to make it even better, we have invited for you to photograph (thank you Mountain Equipment) one of the world’s best climber and an all round nice guy – Dave Macleod.


Where? – North Wales (based out of Bryn Engan Farmhouse)
When? – 30th September (Friday) – 2nd of October (Sunday)
Group size is limited to 8 people only.
I’m sure it will be a practical, informative, and inspirational weekend. For all details just click here!


On a side note, just a quick list of other workshops and lectures I’m doing in the near future:


- 12-13th August – Summer Photography School in Poland (in Polish) – I think 4 places left
- 30th Sept. – 2nd October – LWimages AUTUMN PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS – shoot with DAVE    MACLEOD
- 6th October – Thursday Night lecture during the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival
- 15th October – I’m teaching photography at the Alpkit Bigshakeout weekend!


For more information check out Lukasz's website here 

Future Product on Test in the Lakes

Steve in a new for 2012 Javelin Jacket after a rapid ascent of D Route on Gimmer Crag, Langdale

If you spotted my blog last week you'll know that I spent Wednesday out on the hill with the guys from the Epicentre in Ambleside and ME Pro Partner Nick Bullock. A varied day covering lots of ground provided the perfect opportunity for us to try out some of our current and future lightweight softshells. Days like this are really important as they allow retail staff to use our kit and develop their own opinions on the ME gear that they stock as well as allowing us and our Pro Partners to feed back our own experiences.

Below are the Epicentre's Steve Ashworth's initial impressions on our new Javelin Jacket that will be available from March 2012. Steve is well known in the Lakes as one of the best winter climbers around, an accomplished alpinist and a slightly unhinged fell runner! It's fair to say that he know's a thing or two about technical kit so we're always keen to hear what he has to say:

My first thoughts when getting the new Javelin Jacket out of the packet where that it would make a great jacket for winter fell running. This should come as no surprise as being designed to meet the needs of the light and fast Alpinist it should slot really well into the role of partner for long winter days putting the miles in over the fells. When you are moving the exolite fabric will keep a surprising amount of weather at bay.

I’m always looking for non membraned softshells and it is good to see that in aiming for maximum breathability Mountain Equipment have stuck to their guns and haven’t been tempted to put a membrane in this jacket. Whilst sitting in the Spring/ Summer range for Mountain Equipment and having a winter cousin in the Orbital Jacket, I would choose to wear the Javelin Jacket on “nice” days in Scotland in winter or on a day where I was trying to get a move on. The Javelin Jacket would be great for something like a winter traverse of the Skye Ridge or for a day linking up classics on the Ben. It goes without saying that it would also be top of my list for an Alpine summer trip.

The Javelin showed how versatile it will be in the climber’s wardrobe when we were out last week on a warm sunny day in Langdale, being a perfect barrier against a cool breeze that picked up on the crag and drying quickly after a very sweaty approach. Even in the relatively benign conditions we experienced the large helmet compatible hood was a welcome addition and one that I feel is essential for jackets of this type.

The Javelin is a super versatile jacket equally as at home on the crag down Langdale as it will be soaking up the sun on the Chamonix Aiguilles, it will slot seamlessly into the winter runners wardrobe and looks set to be another Mountain Equipment classic, hopefully my long term test piece will arrive soon!

Stripping off layers during the jog across from Gimmer Crag to Pavey Ark, Langdale

Heres a few more shots/film clips from the day in a slideshow put together by the guys at the Epicentre

Mountain Equipment enters the USA

I'm sitting writing this blog at the end of what seems like a long and tiring week. Its 5am in the UK but only 10pm here in Salt Lake City, Utah, venue for the largest outdoor tradeshow in the United States, Outdoor Retailer.


Luckily any hint of Jet-lag has now well and truly faded, just in time for the 12 hour flight back to the UK but that doesnt seem so bad, following what has been a great week here in the United States.


Its the first time that we have exhibited properly in the USA but despite that, the four day tradeshow has been a busy one for us, with lots of line presentations, especially to the specialist retailers dotted along the north-western half of the US who seem to appreciate our understanding of rain and gnarly mountaineering conditions. And its been a really interesting mix of people and stores, from expedition outfitters in the far reaches of Alaska to renowned mountaineering and climbing stores in Colorado. Big, brash and unashamed America seems to have postively liked our rich heritage and uncompromising message of functional, high quality gear.


Thankfully it's not all been stand building and selling and we've managed a few hours to hike some of the trails in the Wasatch mountains and climb some of the amazing granite Walls that sweep down into the canyons that run around the rim of the Great Salt Lake basin.


On Monday, hamish and myself headed around to Big Cottonwood Canyon and upto the winter ski resort of Brighton. True to form, in one of the driest parts of the US we managed bring the rain with us and had an energetic return from the 9500ft col charging down through the forests in a thunderstorm. Perfect for giving arid and the normally dry Wasatch mountains a taste of our new GORE-TEX Active Shell.


Not content with just hiking, after a busy day of stand-building, the whole team headed round to Little Cottonwood Canyon for a taste of some of the great rock climbing that the Wasatch has to offer. Jordan, one of our team of helpers, managed to get some beta on what we were told was 'one of the best 5:7 climbs in the Wasatch' and we werent disappointed. A vast 25m dihedral corner system that eventually forced its way upwards via an amazing flake and jamming crack system to the top. Only a couple of pitches, but some of the nicest granite climbing i have done, all trad but with bolted belays.


So if you're in the US keep an eye out for our range. The first deliveries will be arriving into selected stores this Autumn / Fall and we'll be posting details of dealers onto our website later.


Hopefully I'll get some photos added to this blog as soon as I get home.

Guerrillas in the Mist - Direct

Head over to ME Pro partner Jens Holsten's blog here to check out his account of "Guerrillas in the Mist - Direct " on Mount Stuart, Cascades. 

Trumpet Slappers - Video

Head over to the DMM site here where you can check out a great short video by 2 Rays productions of ME Pro partner Nick Bullock on Trumpet Slappers E7 6c, Scimitar Ridge, Llanberis.

also check out Nick's blog for further info 

A day out with the Epicentre

Nick Bullock enjoying himself on Ash Tree Ledge, Gimmer Crag

I always enjoy the opportunities I have to do retail staff training days out on the hill but I was particularly looking forward to yesterdays outing with the guys from the Epicentre in Ambleside. It's fair to say that they are a little keener than average. Amongst them they have Callum who is currently ticking his way through hard Lakeland classics up to E8, Lakeland Mixedmaster Steve who considers the Bob Graham Round to be light entertainment and not forgetting the not so secret weapon, Manager Woody.

Joining us for the day was ME Pro Partner Nick Bullock who'd agreed to take a day off from tottering Welsh sea cliffs on the promise of some 'Lakeland Alpinism'. The plan was a day of two halves with a switch of staff at lunchtime, it seemed best that we didn't go too far. Pulling into the Old Dungeon Ghyll pub car park Nick and I were greeted by the sight of Steve and Liam in running shorts and packing not very large rucksacks. 'Oh dear' said Nick. Being an overly safe instructor type I had a boot full of single ropes whilst Nick had a rack with which anything was possible. Steve was of the opinion that betwen four of us all we really needed was 40m of 7.8mm rope, some wires and a cam. At least the sacks would be light. The forecast was very warm with the possibility of a heavy shower or two. With this in mind we all packed one of our current Arrow Zip Tees or one of the amazing new hooded Javelin Jackets that will be coming out next summer. These are our lightest, stretchiest and most breathable softshells so perfect when you're about to have to spend a morning moving slightly too fast and alternating between running, walking and climbing.

Nick and Liam at the top of Middlefell Buttress

We set off towards Raven Crag where Middlefell Buttress was unusually deserted. This was dispatched swiftly and we continued steeply up the hillside towards Gimmer. Stopping at the foot of the ultra classic Ash Tree Slabs we started to cool quickly so put on our Arrow's and Javelin's for the more technical climbing above. At Ash Tree Ledge we paused briefly for Steve to join Liam and I on the rope before continuing up the exposed D route to the top of the crag. It was about 12pm by now and the plan was to meet Woody and the Epicentre's reinforcements back in the car park at 1pm. With this in mind we made rapid if warm progress towards Harrison's Stickle and then across to Pavey Ark where we shot down the classic easy scramble of Jack's Rake.

Nick on D Route

Steve at the top of Gimmer Crag in the Javelin Jacket, new for 2012

Nick admiring the view from the top of Jack's

By now a quick descent was needed if Nick and I were going to get the cold drink we wanted in the pub before the afternoon's activities. Despite a rapid jog down the always painful Stickle Ghyll path we were greeted by the worrying sight of Woody shirtless and clearly raring to go. I stuck my water bottle in the stream and resigned myself to having to bypass the beer garden for now. Nick was preparing himself for a serious Lakeland sandbagging so we were both relieved when Woody suggested Paladin on White Ghyll crag, a relatively amenable E3 by local standards.

Nick and Woody preparing for Paladin on White Ghyll

Steve and Liam headed back to the Epicentre whilst Woody, Callum, Liam, Nick and I started the steep walk back up the hill. The newly slimline Woody made short work of the spectacular and awkward main pitch before giving Nick and I the dieting secret to loosing 3 stone in 3 months and subsequently going from the sofa to E6 in the same period. Drop into the shop if you'd like the finer details, suffice to say that beer is apparently still allowed. We hobbled back down the scree filled gully in overtight rockshoes before packing up to run down and catch up with the others and hear about their own 3 star White Ghyll classic.

Woody heads into the steepness on Paladin

Woody emerging from White Ghyll

We weren't to be denied a drink this time and a cold beer outside the Stickle Barn rounded off a great day in Langdale in good company. Thanks to Nick and everyone at the Epicentre whether out on the hill or back at the shop holding the fort whilst we were out getting slightly sunburnt! It was great to get out and use a selection of our summer softshell in a perfect testing ground as well as showing the guys some of the highlights of next years range. It's fair to say that the re-worked Orbital Jacket already has some fans and we'll have this and other new products out on long term test with these guys soon. Drop into the shop next time you're in Ambleside for some excellent and experienced advice on ME product or simply for some tips on classic Lakes routes. Whether you're walking, scrambling or climbing E8 they'll be able to point you in the right direction!

There'll be more pictures from the day to follow on our Facebook page as well as on the Epicentre blog which also has Lakes conditions updates in summer and winter: www.theepicentre.co.uk/blog

A great end to a good day out!

Rich B.

Dave MacLeod GORE TEX Experience Tour interview

ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod gives us his thoughts on his GORE TEX Experience tour trip to Norway.



You can check out more information about the trip at the Experience tour facebook page here

Join Stephen Venables in 2013

ME Pro partner Stephen Venables... "2013 will be the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest. It will also be the 25th anniversary of our 1988 Anglo - American - Canadian Kangshung Face expedition, which Reinhold Messner described as ‘probably the most adventurous in Everest history’ (and no we didn’t pay him to say that).

I intend to celebrate our Silver Jubilee in style, starting with a trip to the Antarctic Peninsula. Skip Novak, with whom I have already led two expeditions to South Georgia, has agreed to be co-leader of the Antarctic expedition, and make his 22.5m yacht Pelagic Australis available for a four weeks charter from Ushuaia. 

Yacht-based skiing and climbing is one of life’s great adventures; doing it on the Antarctic Penisula is as good as it gets. With eight berths available on Pelagic Australis, there will be scope for both keen Skier/mountaineers and people who would just like to come for the sailing, scenery and wildlife.

The dates: February 1st to February 28th 2013 plus a couple of days each end travelling to and from Ushuaia. We are still working on the detailed plan and prices, which I will send in my next newsletter. In the meantime, please allow yourself to be tempted by this trip of a lifetime, and tell anyone else who may be interested."

For more information checkout Stephen's website here where you can signup for his newsletter

Images - South Georgia 2008 expedition - Stephen Venables Collection

Nick Bullock: Latest

Want to know what ME Pro partner Nick Bullock has been up to over in North Wales? Then head over to his blog here where you can check out his latest post.

Orange Blossom Special. E1 5b *. 30m.

 The horizontal break above Scintillating Witches on Golden Wall. photo Nick Bullock Collection