Monday, 31 January 2011

Winter Skills Course 2

The second of the two Mountain Equipment winter skills courses for Cotswold retail staff ran over the latter half of last week.


After a particularly rainy Monday on which I and my colleague Richard Bailey walked up to the CIC hut on Ben Nevis in the rain and warm temperatures just to turn round again, so much for going winter climbing. Once the Cotswold staff arrived they were armed with a large pile of new Mountain Equipment kit then off to bed ready for a big day in the mountains.

In the morning all the groups headed up to Buchallie Etive Beag to practice or learn skills with ice axes and crampons. Then it was straight back to base for product training sessions and after dinner an excellent lecture from Heather Morning from the MCofS on mountain safety. She also brought along a special guest Millie, who is a mountain rescue dog!



On day 2 the hill walking groups went up on to a very windy Anoch Mor, while I tagged along with the Mountaineers who were ascending the ridge and peak of Stob Corrie an Lochain. A few skills like front pointing and snow anchors were learnt along the way. With everyone back at camp we got some product workshops underway covering our softshell and insulation ranges. this was followed by a very informative lecture on avalanches from Mark Diggins from the SAIS.


Day 3. Looking out of the window at the dark sky before breakfast I could see it was perfectly cloud free. The weather held all day with blue Skys and perfect views. The mountaineers went to Ben Nevis with Dave McLeod, gaining the plateau with an accent of Number 4 gully and the hill walkers going to the grey corries. The course was rounded off with a lecture from our pro partner Dave McLeod.


Friday, 28 January 2011

Tahu Ratum - A Clouded Dream

Tom, Luke and Hamish have just finished putting together this short film from their recent attempt on the NW Ridge of Tahu Ratum in the Hispar Muztagh region of the Karakorum. Unfortunetly the weather didnt quite turn out as planned as you'll see.

We apologise in advance for the occasional swear word!


Tahu Ratum - A Clouded Dream from hamish dunn on Vimeo.

Thursday, 27 January 2011

SkiTransalp Video

Heres a short 5 minute movie put together by Mountain Equipment Pro partner Bernd Ritschel from his successful Ski Transalp expedition back in 2009. (I'm afraid its German language only but still well worth a watch)



You can find out more about Bernd - his latest expeditions and photography at www.lightwalk.de

Tuesday, 25 January 2011

Nick Estcourt Award 2011

Congratulations to Mountain Equipment Pro Partner Andy Houseman and fellow climber Nick Bullock on being awarded this years Nick Estcourt Award. The Grant of £1500 has been awarded for their planned "2011 British Kyashar Expedition" - to make the first ascent, alpine-style, of the ~2000m South Pillar of Kyashar (6769m).

Andy made a trip to Kyashar back in October'10 with fellow climber Tony Stone some pictures of which you can see below









All photos: Tony Stone

We'll have more information on the expedtion as its approaches later this year.

Entries for 2012 Nick Estcourt are now being excepted - closing date is 31st Dec'11, you can find out all the details here - www.nickestcourtaward.org

Sunday, 23 January 2011

M.E Winter Skills Training Course - Day 2/3


Days 2 and 3:
Two more days good weather have allowed the climbers, mountaineers and hillwalkers from Cotswold to have great days out at a variety of classic Scottish venues. A team of us made a very efficient ascent of number 4 gully on Ben Nevis yesterday before continuing to the summit to take advantage of the occasional gaps in the cloud. On the way up we passed Jason and Adam who were climbing good ice on Wendigo with Tim Neill of PYB. The hillwalkers learned more essential skills and dug some excellent snow shelters while they were out. Today has seen climbing on Aonach Mor, a traverse of the Lochain and Phil's team made good use of the ski lifts to save some weary legs!


This evening we've finished the course with a brilliant lecture from ME Pro Partner Dave McLeod.Everyone has headed off to bed raving about an inspiring and informative few days. Thanks to all the Cotswold staff who've got fully involved and the PYB staff who made it so successful. The next bunch arrive tomorrow so there's a lot of kit to wash in a very short time! We look forward to another good few days on the hill.

Friday, 21 January 2011

M.E Winter Skills Training Course

Day One:

Our winter skills training courses are run by Plas Y Brenin, at their winter base in Glen Coe. The course is run for Cotswold retail.

So the weather forecast didn't live up to the promise of sunglasses in Scotland but didn't detract from a superb day on the hill.

We had three courses out today one dedicated to climbers, another which was more mountaineering orientated, the third was winter hill walking.


Chris and I were out with the winter hill walkers while Andy Turner and Rich Bailey went up Buachaille Etive Beag, Practicing essential winter skills.

Everyone has just finished for the evening looking pretty tried while relaxing in the bar.

COMING SOON - LLAMFF 2011

A date for your diaries, more exiciting information to follow!!

click to view

Thursday, 20 January 2011

Latest Product Reviews

I've just picked up the latest issues of Trail and Country Walking magazine for February 2011.


First off Trail where the Morpheus Jacket came out "Best in Test" scoring 4.7 out of 5 in the Waterproof group test.

click to view

The test features 5 of the best general waterproof jackets on the market; all constructed from various waterproof fabrics and all put to the test by Trail writer/reviewer Graham Thompson. Graham scored us highly on the design and features of the Morpheus Jacket coupled with superb breathabilty, waterproofness and weight of GORE-TEX Pro Shell fabric.

click to view

The Ibex/Chamois Pant got through to the final 10 in the Mountain Trouser review scoring an impressive 4/5

click to view

There is also a Used and Abused write up for the Diablo Jacket by Trail resident geologist Guy Prince.

click to view

Its also worth grabbing a copy of Trail as theres a very rare interview with friend of the brand and mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner.

Then over to Country Walking where the Arete Jacket came out Best in Test in the Mens insulated jacket review scoring 20/20 overall.

click to view

Both magazines are in store now

Thursday, 13 January 2011

Martin Moran: 2010 round up

2010 round up from Mountain Equipment Pro Partner and British Mountain Guide Martin Moran

Martin..... "2010 was an excellent year particularly for winter and ice climbing. I made several new routes in Scotland, including Pale Rider (VIII,9) and Feast of the East (VIII,9) on Beinn Eighe, The Wailing Wall (IX,9) on An Teallach plus some notable repeats The God Delusion (IX,9) (2nd ascent) on Beinn Bhan Sundance (VIII,8) (2nd ascent) on Beinn Eighe and The Secret (VIII,8)(5th ascent) on Ben Nevis.

In Norway the cold winter produced stunning ice climbing conditions and with Martin Welch I made the 1st British ascent (and 13th or 14th overall) of the 275m Vettisfossen (Norwegian VI, WI6), one of the world’s most impressive and famous waterfalls.


In our 18 hour Vettisfossen day I wore the same pair of ME Randonnee gloves throughout – testimony to their superb warmth water resistance and technical performance. We also discovered and climbed a new 300m line up an astounding pair of ice pencils above Ardal – ‘Double Whammy’ (Norwegian V, WI6).

Spring and Summer were mainly spent guiding. We had a total of 200 clients in the year and notable highlights were weeks in the Lyngen Alps and Lofoten Islands of Northern Norway, where I guided the magnificent 11-pitch Presten West Pillar (E2) – one of the best rock climbs I’ve done. In the Alps I made guiding ascents of the Kuffner Route on Mont Maudit, Vaucher Route on the Aiguille du Peigne and a traverse of the Schreckhorn .

Our post-monsoon expedition to peak Satopanth (7075m) was beset by bad weather. A single blizzard put down 4 feet of snow at base camp. Having already reached and dumped kit at camp 2 (6000m) we were unable to retrieve the kit and were lucky to extricate ourselves safely under threat of avalanches."
more information available at Martin's website
here

Monday, 10 January 2011

Climb Magazine - February 2011

We've just had the latest issue of Climb magazine appear out of the post bag. This months issue features our very own pro partners Andy Turner, Andy Parkin and Dave MacLeod.



Andy Turner features making the second ascent of Dave MacLeod's Catherdral (X,11) on the Cobbler in Mid December kicking off whats so far been a great season. photo by Lukasz Warzecha


Andy Parkin features in Adam Wainwrights article "The Wizards apprentice - adventures with an Alpine magician". photo by Ray Wood

Theres also a great article by Dave MacLeod - "Staying Strong" where Dave explains how to prevent and beat common climbing injuries.

We also have write ups by reviewer Tom Richardson on the Tupilak II and Ogre Jackets in the "Gearing up" section

Get down to your local stockist and grab a copy - well worth a read

Friday, 7 January 2011

DAV Expedition team 2012 - Videos

2 videos for your Friday afternoon viewing pleasure to get you psyched now the snows back (well kind of)

(Left to right) Members of the DAV 2012 expedition team on their recent visit to select kit for this winter season, with Anke Schneider Marketing Manager and Thomas Strobl Director of Invia - the distributor for Mountain Equipment in Germany, Austria and Italy.

You can check out 2 videos from the DAV 2012 Expedition team on there earlier training expeditions to Chamonix here at 4seasons tv -
Video 1 and Video 2

Have a great weekend!

Wednesday, 5 January 2011

Trail Magazine - February'11

Happy New Year to you all, hope you all had a great break.


Make sure you grab a copy of the february'11 issue of Trail magazine where the Classic Lightline jacket has come out "Best in Test" in the annual Trail duvet jacket review.


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Also checkout Trail editor Matt Swaine's used and abused write up on softshell pants featuring G2 Mountain Pant

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