Friday, 29 April 2011

Kyashar 2011 Expedition update - part 3


Just had a text in from the guys...

"Been sat in base camp with lots of snow every afternoon for the last 5 days. We managed to get some bouldering in during the mornings before it arrives. Bottom butress which we want to climb in rock boots - not axes and crampons is now plastered so we need a few days of sun to clear that first and lots of snow on the face. Gear stashed at start of climb so all set for when we get the weather! Fingers crossed its arrives soon" - Andy and Nick

Wednesday, 27 April 2011

Dave MacLeod - Seven of Nine V14

Congratulations to Dave for completing his Sky Pilot project - Seven of Nine V14

Dave on Seven of Nine V14

You can check out Dave's full report and a video over at his blog here

Tuesday, 26 April 2011

Sylvain and Thomas - visit ME HQ

ME Pro partner Sylvain Millet and friend of the brand, aspirant guide and photographer Thomas Vialletet swung by ME HQ earlier today while on their "rest day" for a spot of gear chat before a catch up over some classic British pub fayre at our local.

   Sylvain and Thomas

The guys have been in the Peak district for the past week climbing classics around Stanage, Burbage south and Black Rocks (see Ruth's post below) before heading back to Gap, France this Friday.

ME Showroom L- R Thomas, Me, Head of ME Design Sam, and Sylvian talk through kit

Sylvain looking through some of the latest SS11 range

We'll have more pictures from the guys in the next week so check back here

Friday, 22 April 2011

Sylvain in the Peak - Part 1

Blog post by Ruth Taylor 
Sylvain checking out the moves on The Crypt Trip

As Dunk mentioned a few days ago, Sylvain Millet has arrived in the Peak District with his friends Thibaud and Yannick (I apologise now for spelling them both wrong!). So Andy and I headed up to the High Neb area of Stanage Wednesday to see how they have been getting on. We had never met Sylvain before and so we headed to the crag wondering if we'd find them. We spotted a team right next to High Neb Buttress but weren't convinced it was team France - they looked to be lacking the standard french uber-climber tan....... we were right definitely some brits, but cowering in the shade behind a boulder were the boys - it's HOT, HOT, HOT out there and that is not great for climbing on the gritstone. Friction is definitely not at it's best!

Thibaud facing the tricky top-out on Quietus

Undeterred the boys were cranking away and we were just in time to see them cruising up Quietus. We hung out for a couple of hours, Andy mostly lay in the sun attempting to get some kind of a tan - whilst I scurried about getting a few photos and soloing some super easy routes.

Andy Turner, Sylvain Millet , Yannick, Mac the dog and Thibaud under the jumper
Sylvain making very short work of Quietus
We left them still climbing as the temperature began to drop, with an extra guide book and some advice about which crags will be shady for the next couple of days. Andy has arranged to meet up again over the weekend and is hoping to tempt them further south to some of the shady crags on the Western Grit, so watch out for the next update.

Thursday, 21 April 2011

Bergzeit Expeditionstag - 28.Mai 2011

Tipps & Tricks von echten Profis: Mountain Equipment unterstützt Bergzeit Alpin beim 1.Expeditionstag


Eurasburg, im April 2011 - Aconcagua, Mt. McKinley oder gar ein 8000er im Himalaya, Expeditionen unterschiedlichster Art erfreuen sich wachsender Beliebtheit. Erfolg und unvergessliche Touren hängen dabei vom richtigen Equipment, einer fachkundigen Beratung und einer guten Vorbereitung ab. Auf Grund dessen unterstützt Mountain Equipment, seit über einem halben Jahrhundert Experte für alpine Ausrüstung, erstmalig die Expeditionstage von Bergzeit Alpin mit seinem hervorragendem Fachwissen. Bergzeit, Fachhändler aus Holzkirchen bei München, ist Spezialist für Bergsport und Expeditionen und bietet am Samstag, den 28. Mai 2011 von 9 bis 18 Uhr einen Expeditions-und Informationstag in seiner Filiale an. Mountain Equipment steht dem Team von Bergzeit Alpin dafür beratend zur Seite.

Neben spannenden Angeboten und Aktivitäten liegt der Schwerpunkt an diesem Tag auf der Wissensvermittlung und Beratung. Wer könnte dafür besser geeignet sein, als Menschen, die Expeditionen bereits hautnah erlebt haben? Deshalb stehen an diesem Tag neben erfahrenen Mountain Equipment Mitarbeitern und Bergzeit-Personal, Expeditionsveranstaltern und Spezialisten zum Thema Akklimatisation auch Profis und staatlich geprüfte Bergführer Frage und Antwort.
Rund um zahlreiche Aktionen berät Mountain Equipment kompetent zum Thema Daune in Schlafsäcken und Bekleidung. Mountain Equipment-Highlight des Tages: Wer die Portaledge (Hängematten-Biwak) in mehreren Metern Höhe erfolgreich über Fixseile „erklettert“, wird dafür von den Alpin-Spezialisten mit einem Ultralight Biwaksack belohnt.
Fachkundige Expeditionsberatung kommt an diesem Tag von Hauser Exkursionen, die mit über 30 Jahren Erfahrung in diesem Bereich beratend zur Seite stehen.
Das Thema Akklimatisation wird vom Institut Höhenbalance näher erläutert. In einem Höhen-Simulator für Jedermann sind 6000 Meter ein Kinderspiel.
Zu guter letzt, denn so viel Action macht hungrig: Trek’N Eat lädt zum Dinner mit Fertiggerichten, die auf keiner Expedition fehlen sollten.

Wednesday, 20 April 2011

Kyashar 2011 Expedition update - part 2

Just had this text message in from the guys via their Sat Phone......


"All well at BC. Nick is over the man flu and we've spent the last few days bouldering around BC and acclimatising up to 5300m. Weather has been a bit unsettled but not too bad. Heading up to the Col between Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru to acclimatise for a few days... Cheers Andy and Nick"


We should hopefully hear more from the guys over the coming days so make sure you check back for all the latest

Monday, 18 April 2011

Sylvain arrives in the Peak

If your out in the Peak climbing over the next 10 days make sure you keep your eyes peeled for ME pro partner Sylvain Millet.


Sylvain arrived in rhe UK yesterday from France, his mission - to sample the delights of the Peak District and as our French agent Thierry put it "sample your Roast Beef and Yorkshire puddings too". While in the Peak he will hopefully be hooking up with fellow ME pro partner Andy Turner for a few days climbing - so we'll have more to follow on that so make sure you check back here over the coming days.


Photos - Sylvain climbing "Babel" - Glandasse cliff, in the south of Vercors massif, France - 6 pitches 7c+/7b+/8a/7c+/7c/7b for 250m - all photos Thomas Vialletet -
www.escape-photography.com

Thursday, 14 April 2011

Kyashar Expedition 2011 - Update

I managed to grab a 5 minute chat with Nick and Andy this morning via sat phone.

The guys arrived at Base Camp yesterday and up to now everything has gone to plan bar a bout of man flu and tooth ache for Nick - which Andy informed me is just a sign of old age much to Nick’s delight.... youth!

So far they have only been able to catch short glimpse of Kyashar on the trek in as visibility has been poor due to snow though Andy mentioned that the weather had started to clear this morning, so fingers crossed that it will settle over the coming days.

Nick and Andy are now going to spend the next 2/3 days acclimatising at base camp before making their next move. Make sure you check back for the latest over the coming days

Monday, 11 April 2011

RTE One - Charlie Bird on the trail of Tom Crean

A new two-part documentary series kicks off on the RTE One network tonight at 9.30pm (available in Ireland and online only)


Charlie Bird - photo RTE

Newsman Charlie Bird heads on the trail of legendary Antarctic explorer, Tom Crean. For over 20 years Charlie Bird has wanted to travel to the South Pole and tell the story of this remarkable Kerryman. In 2011 Charlie's wish came true and to bring Crean's story to life, Charlie spent two months crisscrossing Antarctica before travelling to the Pole itself, completing a journey Crean was denied from making on the very cusp of success.


You can check out more info about the programme along with photos and video clips here


Charlie's expedition gear was supplied by one of our retail partners - Great Outdoors superstore, Dublin - more info here

Sunday, 10 April 2011

Kinder Downfall Race

With some trepidation I joined the near 300 runners on the bridge in the middle of Hayfield, Derbyshire, about to start the Kinder Downfall fell race. The sun was hot, the race was my first and the hill was big.


9.6 miles up and down Kinder.

The hill kicks off straight away as you can see, and I concentrated on not going too fast, but never the less I was concerned that the number of people passing me meant I was sure to be at the back of the field in a matter of moments.

That didn't happen and I kept going, feeling fairly comfortable initially as the route got steeper and steeper up William Clough then a short drop and a steep blast up stone steps. By this time I was not feeling quite so perky but still ok.

Then the long Kinder edge section. It was undulating with loads of rocks, including the Downfall itself. Several sections were full on rock hopping at top speed. Really good fun. It seemed there were often short sections where the path went round a group of boulders but if you picked the correct line you could blast across the complex ground and make time on the runners going the slightly longer way.
That and following people wearing club vests across short cuts took me to Kinder Low, though by this time I was feeling it in my legs. I had picked up a runner (hello 88) and was just trying to keep with him as the uphill sections got harder and harder.

Then thankfully to the downhill. Initially it was blasting down flags and then at Edale Cross a horrible rutted stony path eventually giving way to soft grass. As the downhill went on and on it got harder and harder. I was feeling awful at this stage. Just trying not to get dropped by 88 and to ignore the pain in my legs. A few people went past me but it wasn't the rush I had been expecting.


I think this photo sums it up.

Eventually the last mile or so on roads and paths was upon me and then the last 100m to the finish. I managed a sprint finish, overtaking somebody in the last seconds, before stopping. Oh happy day.

A foot cooling dip in the stream and I was good. 1:33:28 and 85th place. Made up!

no. 273 has finished

If you want to see photos of people who are not suffering as much as me have a look at Dan Asbury's gallery and if you want to know more about the Kinder Downfall race or others around Hayfield look here


Saturday, 9 April 2011

Nick Bullock - Places, time, people. Adventure, uncertainty. Kyashar Expedition 2011.

Check out the latest post from Nick over at his blog


Nick and Andy are currently waiting to catch their flight to Lukla tomorrow before trekking on to the Hinku Valley where they will make their attempt on Kyashar (6770m) pictured above. The guys will be sending me texts via sat phone over the next four weeks so make sure you check back here and over at Nicks and Andys blog for all the latest.

Friday, 8 April 2011

Coldest Race On Earth - The Discovery Channel

Just months after surviving a near-fatal cycling accident, two times Olympic gold medalist and friend of the brand James Cracknell took to his bike again to take on The Yukon Arctic Ultra.


The Yukon Arctic Ultra takes place over 430 miles of frozen Canadian wilderness in the depths of winter where competitors race through temperatures of minus 50 degrees celsius and freezing winds of 50mph.


You can see how James got on by watching "Coldest Race on Earth" with James Cracknell which is currently showing on the Discovery Channel, for schedule information and to see more about the programme head to the webpage here - photo - The Discovery Channel