Canada Update: Trophy Wall Zugzwang.

Head over to Nick's blog here where you'll find the full report on - 'The Sea', 'The Blob' and 'Replicant' that he and Rob have just completed on the Trophy Wall, Mount Rundle.

Long Weekend in Chamonix (By Chris Smith)

Having two young children (2 and a half and 4 months, respectively) has certainly curtailed my adventurous activities over the last couple of years. However, I managed to acquire the all important 'pass' from my wife in order to spend a long weekend in the Alps, skiing with 3 friends (Nick, Gordon and Dave)



Favourable Forecast!

The forecast looked promising for the duration of the weekend. Snow conditions were relatively good, with plenty of white stuff to enjoy. Temperatures had been rising of late so avalanche danger was an increasing threat especially in the afternoons. With very little fresh snow even the most remote snowfields had been tracked out by like-minded skiers and boarders. We had 3 days to go at:



Dave and Chris approaching Col des Crochues





Nick and Gordon

 Day 1 was spent on Le Brevent, finding our ski legs. Myself and Dave hadn't skied for 2 years, however, it was Nick and Gordon's third trip of the season!!



Chris heading down the Valley before ascent to Col Du Berard



I had recently bought a new pair of touring boots (Scarpa Maestrale) to replace my Scarpa Denali's that had served me well for 10 years! This was the weekend to break them in and enjoy the technogical advancements of modern boot technology (light, responsive, comfortable). Unfortunately, in use the boots were just too narrow and they gave me a lot of pain throughout the weekend which really hindered my enjoyment as I had to ski with them relatively loose, which totally compromised any gains in responsiveness! I did have them professionally fitted and I am confident that after a little bit of tweaking here and there they will fit perfectly!? 



View back up to Col des Crochues





Quick rest to take in the views before the skin up to Col du Berard

Day 2 was spent skiing the Crochues-Berard (all pics) traverse (Classic!) in the company of Matt Dickinson, a British Mountain Guide, based in the Chamonix Valley. This was a great day - a true mountain adventure; L'Index lift, Floria button; skin to the Col des Crochues - involving plenty of kick-turns on the ascent. [In 2003, I ruptured my ACL whilst kick-turning on an early alpine start during a traverse of the Haute Route]. I did not want to repeat that on this trip. I must confess that I was moderately proud of my kick-turns on this particular day! Skis off for last 20 metres or so. Breathtaking views of the route that would take us down the valley, before skinning up to the Col du Berard for a lunch stop. Stunning views of the Berard Valley which would lead us ultimately to our destination - Le Buet.




Skiers heading off down the impressive Berard Valley to Le Buet

 

Dave - as always skiing with poise and control!



Chris descending from Col du Berard - we did find some untracked snow further down the valley



Day 3 was spent at Le Grands Montets where we picked up a route from the top cable car and skiied down via the Glacier Argentiere.

A great few days. A better fitting boot would have increased my enjoyment, however, as they say.....no pain, no gain!!

Mountain Equipment:

I took a few bits of new gear with me to test, however, the weather was just too good and I was invariably skiing in a base layer (Altus Half Zip), softshell jacket (Microtherm) and soft shell trousers (G2 Ultimate Mtn Pant)

Kalanka Jacket - Day One (Brevent)

Changabang Pant - Day One

Eclipse Hooded Zip T (new for AW11) - Day One - again brill bit of kit, just too warm today!

Microtherm Jacket - Touring day (at least 8 years old - still amazing)

G2 Ultimate Mountain Pant - Day 2 and 3: don't delay...buy a pair today!! The most amazingly verstaile mountain pant!! 

Firelite Jacket - stayed in pack on touring day

Firelite Pant - stayed in pack on touring day

Altus LS Zip Neck (powerdry)

Momentum Powerdry base layer.

Powerstretch Tights - worn under Chang Pants

Aiguille Hooded Jacket - not worn



Bastion Jacket (New for AW11) - unfortunately not worn

Randonee Glove - spare gloves on touring day.

Super Alpine Glove - every day. Great glove!

Couloir Glove - not worn



Couloir and Pinnacle Glove Advertisement!







Canada update: No Use in Crying

Nick and Rob look to be having a great time in Canada completing No Use in Crying (IV M7, 205m) on the Weeping Wall yesterday. Check out Nick's blog for the full report and further photos here

Andy Parkin: Documentary

Just had an update from Andy on what he's be up and has planned over next few months. Amongst Guiding and his Art Andy he has been doing work with various television and radio networks including this documentary shot for Redbull/Austrian TV channel Servus TV.

The Documentary is part of series called "Bergwelten" in which this episode follows Andy and fellow climber Steve House as they look back on their climbing careers and climb the North Face of the Dru together late last year.

You can view the 60 minute documentary here, however it has been dubbed into German.. but its is well shot and still worth a watch.   

Mallorca

Unfortunately my time off from the ever hectic ME Marketing office coincided with thermo-nuclear melt down in Scotland. What had looked initially like some useful consolidation turned instead into a drastic thaw which even the most optimistic winter warriors were struggling to see a way back from. With winter climbing ruled out it was time for plan B which, less excitingly, was to continue the winters training/ suffering on the bike. Happily this was to be followed by a week of sun rock and immaculate tarmac in Mallorca…. or at least that was the plan.

I love Mallorca, not only are there some of the best sport crags in Europe but it allows me to indulge my penchant for being a continental cycling fashion victim without looking out of place. There aren’t many places where you can be on immaculate limestone one day and wearing white lycra with a straight face the next. Sadly this year the weather didn’t work out and, apart from one fantastically warm day at Gubia, it was pretty cold and windy. Shorts and t-shirts at the start of the week were rapidly replaced by clothing more suited to Alpinism than Euro-sport. Even crags billed as sheltered like S’estret required lowering off straight into a duvet jacket to preserve what little warmth you’d built up on route.

After a winter of riding hard in the Lakes I was at least well prepared for the strong winds, relative cold and occasional wetness even if the wardrobe I’d brought wasn’t. My heavier duty bike gear all lay abandoned on the cellar floor in Kendal and by the end of a shivering 9.5km descent into Sa Callobra I was beginning to regret it. A couple of coffees in the cafe and the subsequent full tilt climb back out soon warmed me up but this wasn’t the sun drenched mileage I’d hoped for. Each day dawned to more wind and more miles. Towards the end of the week people were being blown off bikes in exposed spots and the flying down wind sections were become little compensation for the savage head and cross winds that followed.

It wasn’t all bad though, some great routes were climbed, I hit my target mileage for the week and research into the use of Cava as a recovery drink continued. Hopefully this will put me in good stead for a great summer on the rock and a ‘properly quick’ Fred Whitton amongst other things….. there may even be some respectable routes in the Alps if I can put the two together!


Rich B.

Canada Update: A Forty Year Old Can Do Anything

Head over to Nick's blog here and check out what the guys have been up to so far

photo: Rob Greenwood

North Face of Pic Sans Nom

I've just had an email update in from Guide, Professional photographer and friend of the brand Thomas Vialletet who late last week completed a Winter ascent of the North Face of Pic Sans Nom, ( 3913m, Oisans Massif ) with his climbing partner Nico Draperi.

Thomas 

You can checkout Thomas's full report over at his blog here - in French only I'm afraid, however there are some great photos from the route too so its well worth a look.

Thomas is off to Kichatna Spire, Alaska in April, so we look forward to seeing his report form that trip.

For all the latest take a look at Thomas's Guiding and photography sites here

http://www.guidehautemontagne05.com  and  http://www.escape-photography.com/

Photos: Nico Draperi

Stubaier Alpen

Touring in the Stubai Alps - Austria

I spent all of last week in our German offices, working on next Spring and Winter's product ranges. Nestling in the heart of the Bavarian Countryside, only a matter of minutes from the foothills of the Nothern Alps and only an hour or so from the Austrian Tyrol it is an all too tempting spot for escaping into the mountains.

With relatively warm temperatures predicated, the avalanche risk at lower elevations was forecast to be high and so Thomas and myself decided to head over towards the central Alps in the Stubai region of Austria, to allow us to get above 3000m and find the best conditions. All photos courtesy of Thomas Strobl.

Skinning up the Pfaffenferner glacier, Monica behind (bottom R)

Taking advantage of the uplifts at the Stubaigletchser resort we quickly found ourselves basking in the sun at nearly 3000 metres. It was 10 o'clock and already warm. Our desination that day was the highest peak in the region, the Zuckerhutl (the SugarLoaf) which stands proud, the highest peak in the Stubai region at 3505m.

Rich at the Pfaffenjoch (3212m) en route to Zuckerhutl

From the hustle and crowds of the Stubaigletchser resort, we had gone within minutes, into a small and secluded valley. Greeted with silence, just a few other ski tourers could be seen on the glacier high above. With skins on (furry strips of fabric that let you ski uphill - originally from animal skins, hence the name but now synthetic) we began the gradual ascent of 600 metres or so to the summit. It was a steady climb that took a couple of hours, first a steady climb up the Pfaffenferner glacier to a col at 3212m before a long easterly traverse took us alongside and under the north face of the Zuckerhutl. From it would be a relatively straightforward climb to its summit. But in the relative warmth (the freezing level was around 3000 metres) even in just a Polartec base-layer and Shroud Jacket it was hot work.

Tom below the summit of Zuckerhutl

Rich at the 'ski station' beneath Zuckerhutl

From the ski station it was ski's off and short but relatively straightforward climb to the summit. And before we knew it, there Tom and I were, looking across to the Oztal Alps and further West towards the Wildspitze and onto Switzerland, to the South lay Italy and the distinct peaks of the Dolomites.

Rich & Tom after summiting Zuckerhutl

After a night spent in the Dresdner Hut, we were joined by two of Thomas' friends Markus and Monica, who living in nearby Innsbruck knew these mountains like the back of their hand. Again the day was forecast to be relatively warm, so again we decided to stay as high as possible.

Markus, Rich & Monica

Whizzing up in the cable car, we were quickly taken to 3133m. A short descent down firm piste and we were off , skirting the edge of the Windacher Ferner glacier before dropping down into a large bowl at around 2800m. This is what alpine touring is all about, the mountains were deserted, skiing fresh tracks as we descended some thousand feet through firm but forgiving snow, surounded to our North by a cirque of craggy peaks.

Fresh tracks, awesome views and no crowds

From the shadowy bowl we looked upwards, the rising glacier above was steeper than it looked. We would now have to regain the 350 metres of height we had just lost and we hadnt gone very far before we realised that the long climb ahead was more avalanche prone that we had first suspected. A quick pit and tell-tale chalky snow revealed a less stable series of slab layers, not horrendous, but worrying enough to ascend with extreme caution. 30 metres apart and sticking high to the edge of the snow-field on the Warenkarferner glacier we made our way up.

Looking back down the Warenkarferner, the obvious peak is Stubaier Wildspitze

As we neared the col the slope gradient increased. You did not need to be an expert to realise this was prime avalanche terrain. Thomas tried to avoid the normal line, hoping to find a safer way through the rock bands but it was not possible. And so Markus looked for a line  up the remaining slope, skinning across an unforgiving surface that had been scoured ice hard, there was only one option and that was to take the ski's off and climb the last 10 metres or so on foot.

Rich negotiating steeper ground and unstable windslab

Dropping off the west side of the col we descended an easy 200 metres across a sweeping glacier before climbing up once again and traversing around towards our one main summit of the day, the Hint Daunkopf.







Rich skiing the upper reaches of the Sulztalferner glacier

Wilde Leck (3361m) towers behind

Tom nearing the summit of Hint. Daunkopf (3255m)

After a series of short climbs and fantastic descents, with ski's left at the col, Tom and I made quick work up the snowy scree slopes to 3255m whilst Markus and Monika opted to relax in the sun! From here it was some 1500 metres of descent, first through firm and fast snow, later as we dropped below the 2500m contour line, softer less forgiving conditions before a bone rattling traverse across avalanche debris brought us back to the security and hustle of the pistes.

With a less promising forecast for Sunday, we mulled over the options. Sat in Markus' apartment overlooking Innsbruck we pondered the encroaching weather as Markus gave us a lesson in tropical fish, sat as we were next to his giant indoor aquarium brimming with exotic fish from Lake Tanganika. When Markus wasnt skiing or climbing, this was his other great passion.

The updated forecast was much more hopeful, the weather was coming in from the South and would not reach the central Alps until late afternoon. And with temperatures forecast to drop it was decision made, we headed up past the growing resort of Kuhtai and into a hugely popular touring area to the South-West. Other than some thousand metres of ascent, today was to be an easier, shorter day. One-way up onto the Mitteltalferner glacier and col at 2758m before reversing our tracks and skiing all the way back down, back in time for lunch.

Skinning up through the Mitte Tal

Skinning up steepening ground on the Mittertal ferner. Circa 2800m

Markus, Monika & Karl following behind

Rich grappling with kick-turns on steep ground

(L-R) Rich, Thomas, Markus & Monika

Markus descending the Mittertalferner

Karl Kahofer (CEO of Britax) proving that you can work and play hard

Descending into the shadows one last time

Gear:

I used a mixture of gear touring on this trip, the exceptionally warm conditions meant lightweight layers were key and many pieces I would normally wear at least occasionally remained firmly in my pack.

As ever my G2 Mountain Pants were indispensible, these are awesome alpine trousers, excellent for alpine touring in cooler conditions. On cold days I would wear these in conjunction with thermal leggings but on this trip were more than adequate on their own.

Next to skin, I wore either a Crux Tee or LS Polartec base-layer, which most of the time I then wore in conjunction with a Shroud Jacket. On the colder day I swapped this in favour of our Concordia Jacket, which is warm, light and very breathable.

With such great weather you could be forgiven for forgetting about outer shell but protection from the wind is as important as anything, especially on descents. On Day One I opted to wear our new Trojan Jacket, a lightweight and stretchy WINDSTOPPER softshell, but with such warm temperatures, I carried it most of the time and so for the remainder of the trip, left this behind and simply wore and carried my trusty GORE-TEX Active Shell Firelite Jacket. This fabric is ideal for ski touring, being exceptionally light and very breathable.

To keep my hands warm, I wore Super Alpine gloves nearly all of the time. These are really dexterous, provide a nice balance of warmth without being overly hot and are windproof and snow-resistant, great for damp snow-melt conditions. Randonee gloves which are normally my main glove of choice remained firmly in my pack, too warm for the conditions. To keep my head warm, my retro ME buff from many years ago and a branded knitted beanie.

Finally I carried but never wore my Fitzroy Jacket and Firelite Pant. Both hid firmly at the bottom of my pack. Shovel, avalanche probe, first aid-kit, transceiver, lightweight crampons and axe, harscheisen (ski crampons), sunglasses & goggles, repair kit and food / drink made up the rest of my pack. We didnt carry a rope or harness but would normally be recommended if you're travelling through unfamiliar glacial terrain.

EOCA Voting now open!

Voting has begun for this years EOCA conservation funding programme. 

The EOCA - European Outdoor Conservation Association is a Conservation organisation made up from an ever expanding group of brands and retailers within the European outdoor industry, formed to raise money for conservation projects worldwide. In 2012, just six years after its formation, EOCA is aiming to raise its first €1 million for conservation. All the money raised will go directly to the conservation projects chosen by its members and this is where we need your help.

As a member of the EOCA this year we nominated the 'Conservation of Snowdonia project' which we are pleased to announce made the final short list of 6 projects for the Category of Outdoor. 

Conservation Snowdonia works to protect, enhance and celebrate Snowdonia. The organisation wants to develop its volunteer programme for habitat creation and biodiversity enhancement, specifically targeting sites vulnerable to climate change and increased recreational use. The project will help organise more volunteer work days to help with litter picks, clearance of invasive species, footpath work, vegetation management and will encourage locals to 'adopt' their own site to work on.

You can read more information, volunteer and donate to this great project at

http://www.snowdonia-society.org.uk/        

How can I vote?... well the EOCA has teamed up with various outdoor publications across Europe here in the UK they have teamed up with TGO Magazine. Voting is quick and simple all you need to do is head to www.tgomagazine.co.uk/EOCA and fill in the online form. You can also vote via a number of other titles across Europe.

Benelux

LIFT magazine: www.liftmagazine.nl/p/45/91/poll

Bike & Trekking:  www.bikeandtrekking.nl/p/45/91/poll

France

Wider: www,widermag.com

Voting ends Thursday 22nd March'12 

You can find out more about the EOCA and the other 5 shortlisted projects at 

http://www.outdoorconservation.eu/