Thursday, 24 December 2009

Wales' Hardest Winter Route

Winter climbing maestro Andy Turner, partnered by fellow Mountain Equipment Pro Partner Stuart McAleese, has repeated Nick Bullock's Cracking Up (IX 9) on Clogwyn Du with no falls. This report first appeared on the DMM website and is reproduced with their kind permission.

Nick climbed his über winter route back in February 2006 on his second visit, taking a memorable fall from high up that left him at the half-way resting niche. From here he topped out on the 45 metre overhanging pitch that effectively takes the summer line of The Crack, given E1 (2pts aid) in the current Ogwen guidebook.Andy confirmed the grade and said: "It's an amazing three star route. I had to pull harder on Sassenach [a summer E3 6a on the Ben that is also IX 9] but Cracking Up is more sustained." Like Nick, Cracking Up also took Andy two visits.

On his first attempt, with the crag veiled in cloud and swirling hail, Andy fell just below the niche with the crux behind him, after a hook unexpectedly let him down leaving him swinging in space. Lowering back to the stance and feeling tired he pulled the ropes and opted for a return visit the next day to maximise his chances of getting it in one push.
On his return, the conditions couldn't have been better. At the point where he'd previously come unstuck, he found a bomber placement over a small chockstone a few inches above the hook that had spoilt his previous day's effort .

As Andy successfully reached the belay, fighting rope drag, Rich Cross and Ian Parnell approached Stuart's stance with the intention of also making the first repeat of a Nick Bullock
route from February 2006, Travesty VIII 8. Andy and Stu got back to the foot of the crag just in time to see some gritty determination and 'power screaming' from Ian get him across the difficult first pitch after a couple of falls - one of which ended with him suspended from his elastic leash with the tool out of reach while holding the other one between his teeth!

Photo: Andy Turner making the first no-falls ascent of Cracking Up IX 9, Clogwyn Du, Ogwen. © Ray Wood

Wednesday, 23 December 2009

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you all. Hope you all have a great one and make the most of the great conditions we're having - we'll see you on the other side!

All the best The Mountain Equipment Team

Some of the Mountain Equipment Team at our recent works "Christmas" outing . I escaped this photo, but I'm sure the others won't mind : )

Friday, 18 December 2009

Avalanche Reports begin for 09/10 Season

The Sport Scotland Avalanche Information Service has resumed business for the 09/10 Winter Season.

Avalanches regularly occur in the Scottish mountains, sometimes with tragic consequences and the valuable work carried out by the SAIS undoubtably saves lives every year.

Supported by Mountain Equipment, Avalanche assessors will be out daily for the next four months, assessing snow conditions and providing daily reports for 5 of the main mountain areas in Scotland. Reports are available for Northern Cairngorms, Southern Cainrgorms, Lochaber, Glencoe and Creag Meagaidh.

In addition to the reports (which can be found at www.sais.gov.uk) assessors will also be posting daily blog reports on their days work. Live updates to these blogs can be found on our Blog updates further down this page.

Friday, 11 December 2009

Mountain Equipment Store - Manchester

If your heading into Manchester during the Christmas period make sure you head down to the New Mountain Equipment retail store on Deansgate - opened in partnership with fellow Manchester based retailer Ellis Brigham.


Thursday, 10 December 2009

Climber Jan'10


Make sure you check out the January 2010 issue of Climber Magazine. Which includes an Exclusive interview with Mountain Equipment Pro Partner Dave MacLeod.

Wednesday, 2 December 2009

AMI AGM

A sure fire bet for great weather is to be working and so it proved this weekend at Plas Y Brenin, as 100 or so Mountaineering Instructors descended on North Wales, timed to clinical perfection as the first snows of the winter fell on the mountains of North Wales.

The reason for this gathering was the annual meeting of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) and as one of the major sponsors of the association (the other one being DMM) I was duty bound to gather up the giant ME flag and do my best to wave it around.

The Association was formed some 19 years ago, and represents all professional mountaineering instructors who hold either the MIA or the MIC award. As such the weekend is a mix of important nitty gritty regarding the workings and direction of the Association as well as an opportunity for qualified instructors to gain further training and professional development in a variety of disciplines, hence the programme of workshops.

And thats where we came in again, ensuring that two of our Pro Partners (Dave Macleod and Andy Turner) would be delivering some of those workshops. For Dave that meant delivering a rock climbing masterclass session and for Andy sharing his intimate knowledge on the dark art of Dry Tooling - both focussing on personal climbing as well as coaching.

On the Saturday evening Dave also gave a lecture, one of the first he has given focussing on his massive project on St. John's Head on Orkney. After that it was to the bar, from that point the details are somewhat sketchy, but I do remember being very definitely not the last one to leave at around 1:45am.....I am told the committed professionals kept going until nearly 4am.

Tuesday, 1 December 2009

"Everest '09" Premiere - Oslo, Norway

7th December'09 sees the Premiere of “Everest 09” at Chateau Neuf, Oslo, Norway.


The documentary tells the story of Mountain Equipment Norwegian Pro Partners Lars Oma and Petter Nyquist who summated Mount Everest on 21sts May’09. After returning to Advance Base Camp they received the message that a fellow Norwegian climber hadn’t reported back after his summit attempt. The following day Lars and Petter organized a rescue party. Petter scrambled together enough money to hire the best and strongest sherpas for the rescue attempt. The team of Sherpas managed to find Climber Jarle Traa in the “dead zone” just below the summit of Everest miraculously he was still alive, however was suffering from severe frostbite and hypothermia after spending the night exposed at altitude. Lars a trained medical doctor managed to stabilized Jarle at a higher camp so he could be carried off Everest.

Everest 09 will then go out prime time on mainstream Norwegian television later in Dec’09 check back here for the link to watch online.

For more info go to


http://www.everest09.no/
http://www.billetservice.no/


Picture – Jarle being carried down from Everest by Yak - to get the warmth back into Jarle, Petter and Lars used their Mountain Equipment Redline downsuit and mitts.






Thursday, 19 November 2009

Kendal Mountain Film Festival


If you are braving the weather and heading for Kendal Mountain Film Festival this weekend make sure you go and check our pro partners and their lectures

Thurs 19th - Brewery Centre Screen 2 - Andy Turner - Phari Lapcha Expedition

Friday 20th - Parish Hall - Tarka'Herpinere and Katie Jane Cooper - Rivers of Ice

Also Andy Houseman will be hanging around fresh from his 1st ascent on Chang Himal, Sandy Allan will be there with information on his guiding company Team Ascent, Artist and legend Andy Parkin and some off our very own team will be hanging around most likely near a bar! after a heavy week of Winter 2010 sales meetings.

more info and tickets head to the ticket desk at the Brewery Centre or see the website

Wednesday, 18 November 2009

Ran Fiennes Interview on BBC i-player


Check out BBC 4's - Mark Lawson interview with adventurer/explorer and long standing friend of the brand - Sir Ranulph Fiennes

Watch the interview on BBC i-player here

Friday, 13 November 2009

This Months Climb Magazine


I've just had the latest issue of "Climb" magazine (Dec'09) land on my desk - go out and grab a copy, then checkout Tom Richardson's write up on all you need to know about 'Down Jackets' - Our Vega and Greenland Jackets are featured

see the website for more info on our insulation collection

Thursday, 12 November 2009

Chang Himal North Face ED+ / M6

This time last year Nick and I returned to Kathmandu early and empty handed, literally, after having our base camp robbed and grand old sum of zero climbing. Things went a bit different this year, everything seemed to just work out, great weather, great mountain, brilliant base camp cook, no robbers and a summit.


North Face of Chang Himal, Central Spur, 1800m ED+ / M6 (Bullock & Houseman 29/10/09 - 02/11/09)

The awesome 1800m North face of Chang Himal (6802m) was quite daunting to wake up to each morning, looking directly across at it, 1km away over a jumbled glacier/moraine mess. Having filled our cook 'Buddy' with confidence after failing to reach the top of some nearby 6000m bumps and taking two attempts to get up the local trekking peak, 'route finding errors...', dawn on the 29th October saw us a good way up the lower part of the face and fighting off the initial signs of a bout of Gardia, perfect timing!

We spent 5 days on the face, covering well over 2000m of ground, the second been the slowest and crux with run out climbing up to Scottish 7/M6 on steep rotten ice/snow over loose rock. Gear and belays seemed to take an age to uncover, finding something if you were lucky. Any un-comfy second night on a 30cm snow ledge was eased slightly hoping the crux section was, hopefully, below us. After a few hours simu-climbing the third day ended with 3 pitches bringing us up into the steep Peruvian style snow flutings below the summit.

Andy starting out from the Bivi on Day 2. Photo: Nick Bullock

Waking, not sure if we'd climb ourselves into a dead end Nick peeked over into the next fluting returning with a grin, game on! Leaving all the gear at the bivi we managed to grovel up the final flutings to follow the east ridge for the last 100m to the summit.

Nick heading up the second and crux pitch on Day 2

Over a year of looking at photos, nearly two weeks staring, watching from base camp – will it? won’t it? To finally be sat, along with Nick, one leg either side of the knife edge summit, wow! I can’t begin to describe.

Down climbing back to the last bivi we spent another night there before abseiling the rest of the face in 14 hours and crashing out in a small cave at the base, bodies trashed but big smiles.

A massive thanks to everyone who supported this trip, Mountain Equipment, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Mammut, DMM, SIS (Sports in Science) and the Lyon Equipment Award for their continued help with gear and financial support from The BMC, MEF, Nick Estcourt Award, Mark Clifford Award, Shipton/Tilman Award. This trip couldn’t have happened without it, your support is much appreciated, thank you.

Summit joy! Photo - Nick Bullock

Monday, 9 November 2009

Welsh Mountain Skills: Round Up

Well the final week of our Welsh Mountain Skills ended with Autumn gales, Autumn deluges and Autumn illness!



Our team approaching the summit of Y Garn



Monday dawned bright, distinctly colder and showery. Our objective that day was to be the North East Ridge of Y Garn followed by a traverse around onto Glyder Fach and then a descent down the Y Gribin ridge and back to Idwal Cottage. Finally some proper weather. A cold North Westerly air stream was feeding in a regular flow of showers and as we headed higher these turned increasingly wintry. By the time we were on the Glyders and well above 900m we experienced our first flakes of snow of the 2009/10 winter.



Picking their way up Y Garn's NE Ridge


Unfortunately Tuesday did not dawn as promising. The forecast gave us barely a few precious hours of relatively dry weather. And so Rich and myself headed across to Tremadog to give Rob and Laura (Mountain, Trek and Travel) and X their first experience of multi pitch rock climbing with an ascent of Boo Boo.

From there things, personally speaking when abruptly downhill. Rich Bailey promptly keeled over with flu like symptons and several hours later I too was knocked sideways by a fever and soaring temperature. We both headed for the protection of beds and duvet covers.
So whilst we moped around feeling ill, Martin and Russel Thompson from WL Gore headed across to Llanberis for a damp ascent of the Parsons Nose. Clogwyn Y Parson Arete is the classic grade 3 scramble thats rears up out of the upper reaches of Cyrn Las towards the skyline of Crib Goch / Crib Y Ddysgyll.

By the time the fourth and final course started, Rich and I were feeling little better so it was left to Martin, Alec and Russel to carry the torch, enjoying, if that is the right word a thoroughly wet ascent of Snowdon from Ynys Ettws in Llanberis.



The soaring ridge line of Cneifion Arete (Mod)

The final day ended very much on a similar theme, Rich spent a very wet dry, climbing very wet rock at Tremadog with Kevin from Facewest, Jane brushed up her navigation with our southern sales manager Alec and everyone else experienced scrambling 'on steroids' - climbing swathes of rock in a full-on mountaineering experience.

And so that brought to an end our Autumn series of mountain training events. Over the past two weeks we have provided training to some 35 retail staff from all across the country, from large multiples to small indepedents, all of whom who will now hopefully be able to provide our customers with even better service and knowledge of our products. I'm just waiting for the next one now....

New Concept store - Japan

If you happen to be in or travelling through Japan make sure you come and checkout the second Mountain Equipment Concept store which has just opened its doors in Chiyoda-ku district of Tokyo.




Address - Mountain Equipment, ICI Club Kanda Ogawa-cho 3-6, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
For more information head to

Wednesday, 4 November 2009

Houseman and Bullock success on Chang Himal

We have just heard the massive news that Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock have bagged the first ascent of the north face of Chang Himal.

The remote 6750m peak of Chang Himal (a.k.a. Wedge Peak) has only ever seen one previous ascent via the south side in the 70's. Despite a number of attempts, until now, the formidable 1500m mixed north face had remained untamed and has been seen for many years as one of the significant unclimbed Himalayan objectives.

We can't wait to hear the full details of the ascent which Houseman and Bullock tackled with a fast and lightweight alpine style approach. For now we just want to spread the exciting news and send huge congratulations to the guys for their awesome acheivement.

Andy Houseman is a Mountain Equipment Pro Partner. The Chang Himal Expedition was supported by The Mark Clifford Grant, Nick Estcourt Award and GORE-TEX Shipton/Tillman Grant.

Tuesday, 3 November 2009

Andy Parkin in Alpinist 28

Checkout Ed Douglas's feature on Andy Parkin - 'A Muscular Imagination: Andy Parkin and the Art of Climbing' in Alpinist 28.

For more information head too

Monday, 2 November 2009

Hello

Jude Laws latest love conquest - Fergies most explosive interview yet - Tarka and Katie??????

not the usual place you'd expect our pro partners Tarka L'Herpiniere and Katie Jane Cooper to appear but if you happen to read Hello magazine this week checkout the feature on their recent Patagonian epic - Rivers of Ice expedition.

for more info check out http://www.rivers-of-ice.com/

Saturday, 31 October 2009

Welsh Mountain Training: End of Day Four

Well our first week at the Bryn Engan Farmhouse, Plas Y Brenin has drawn to a close, the second of this weeks Mountain Training in North Wales over and all of those who attended Course Two now rushing back home to start work in shops up and down country the country again!


Our base: the recently opened Bryn Engan Farmhouse - Plas Y Brenin

Once again the weather has just about played ball. Just a little bit of dampness and hill-fog, insanely mild (has someone forgotten its nearly November?) and generally light-ish winds. In fact we were lucky, each time missing the worst the weather had to throw at us by about 12 hours (i.e. when we were safely tucked up in bed!).

On Thursday we were treated to a great day of weather (after an initially slightly murky start) and the clouds lifted to give us a great day out on the North Ridge of Tryfan and, for some of the speedier folks with us, Bristly Ridge and the Glyders also, a great combination which no matter how many times I've done it, still never fails to inspire.


Searching out some of the more adventurous lines on Tryfan's North Ridge


Clear skies on Glyder Fawr, Snowdon the obvious peak behind

On Friday, Rich Bailey and myself headed over to Tremadog with 2 members of staff from The Outdoor Shop, near Milton Keynes for a Rock Improvers Day - Sally and Dan getting to grips with leading on multi pitch rock climbs along with a few emergency techniques. Meanwhile Drew, Mike and Tom (all from Nevisport) along with Nick from Taunton Leisure were treated to a day in the expert company of Mike Raine from Plas Y Brenin and spent all day learning self-rescue and emergency rope-work. And not wanting to desert terra firma entirely another group went and got purposefully lost in the foothills above Capel Curig to brush up on some micro navigation.

Heading down. On Y Gribin ridge looking north.

So all in all a pretty varied couple of days and a fantastic week. 18 retail staff from across the country have learnt a little bit more about what makes ME and its products tick as well as hopefully going home not only safer and more complete mountaineers, mountain walkers and scramblers but also that little bit more skilled at giving you the best possible advice.

And so now as I sit at home, looking quizically at the raft of Atlantic depressions lining up to attack the British Isles, i can look forward to next weeks intake. We'll keep you posted.

Thursday, 29 October 2009

A dream of dry rock

So the forecast looked dry and with lingering dampness in the mountains of Snowdonia, there was really only one place to go, Gogarth.

Traversing across the cliff tops at Gogarth

Soaring sea cliffs, superb climbing and the option to climb when the mountains are shrouded in rain and drizzle, Gogarth is an absolute must visit destination. Once you've been once, you'll be hooked. Its big, its great, and occasionally just a little scary.

And with Martin having never climbed at Gogarth before, and a burning desire to climb the uber classic line, A Dream of White Horses, we were off to Wen Zawn.

Abseiling into Wen Zawn - nerve wracking for the first time!


During our hurried planning and morning burst of enthusiasm we had obviously forgot that it had A) been raining heavily all night and B) was the end of October. How on earth did we honestly expect bone dry rock? But we had so were a little disappointed as we arrived on our perched ledge, some 40 metres down our abseil line, to find large swathes of the slab seeping with water. It then dawned on us that conditions were not going to be ideal but only when Rich Bailey started climbing did we realise just how un-ideal the conditions were, the rock was extremely damp in places and exceptionally greasy, transforming what should have been a straightforward HVS into something that felt all a little bit harder.

Rich Bailey negotiates his way over greasy and wet rock

After building the belay to secure all, Rich fired off up the first pitch, opting to head partially up the line of Wen, in order to re-join 'Dream' higher up. The steep crack line was seriously greasy, Rich was taking his time. After setting up the hanging belay Martin followed, the belay was sobering with 3 of us hanging in space some 50 metres above the waves which were crashing beneath us sending a soapy froth of bubbles into the air and onto us. For Martin this was a serious introduction to Gogarth's sea cliffs!



Pitch Two was little better, the line of flakes which normally is a pleasant handrail 'saunter' in dry conditions felt much trickier, as hands and fingers gradually unwound from the greasy rounded flakes, and with little option to smear feet on the face in front, some rather energetic toe hooks were employed to full effect.

But before we knew it were ready for the last pitch, a final 'gripping' traverse line which swings under the roofs and across the chasm of Wen Zawn, a truly inspiring pitch and one which would require Martin to climb as steadily as the leader, any fall resulting in a small swing into free space!




Martin on the final traverse pitch as Rich watches from the belay


Again a little dampness and soapy air as you pulled around the rib, made the moves that little bit more exciting, but as I pulled through into the mild Autumn sunshine, I knew the route was complete. All that was left was to bring Rich Bailey and one very delighted Martin up. His first Gogarth climb completed, a very classic one at that, and in far from ideal conditions!

Coming to a city near you - The GORE-TEX® Experiential Rig Roadshow


The GORE-TEX® products Experiential Rig is touring the country for the next four weeks allowing you guys to experience the benefits of its technologies and learn about the incredible range of activities and brands that rely on GORE-TEX® products.

For over 50 years W.L. Gore & Associates has been delivering solutions that make people’s lives easier, safer and more comfortable. The company’s best-known brand – GORE-TEX® - established the market for functional fabrics and has remained a market leader throughout that time.
The GORE-TEX® products Experiential Rig enables you to gain a better understaning of Gore product range and their applications. From running to motorcycling to hill walking, mountaineering and snowsports there are garments, footwear and accessories to suit every level of participation.

As well as showcasing some of the very best Mountain Equipment/GORE-TEX product such as the Changabang Jacket and Pinnacle Glove, the Experiential Rig also offers an interactive exhibition made up of various sensory experiences that demonstrate the physical benefits offered by GORE-TEX® membranes these include - the "Climate Cube" where you can choose from a range of activities, each of which take you – and your feet – through a variety of the most extreme weather conditions you are likely to experience also Get ‘hands on’ with the "Glove tester" on the Rig that brings the benefits of Gore’s glove technology to life.

Additional information is available about the products, technologies and the Experiential Rig Roadshow itself through a dedicated microsite.
Visit www.gore-tex.co.uk and click on the link.

Locations for the GORE-TEX® Products Experiential Rig Roadshow are:


27/10 – 01/11 The Trafford Centre, Manchester
05/11 – 08/11 Silverburn, Glasgow
10/11 – 15/11 Meadow Hall, Sheffield
17/11 – 22/11 Westfield, London

Tuesday, 27 October 2009

Welsh Mountain Training: End of Day Two

Well we've just finished the first of our two-day mountain skills training events here in Snowdonia. Its been a real mixed bag of training and luckily the weather so far has been interesting enough without being horrendous - the perfect environment to learn about some of our products and spend time talking to the people who help develop and test it.

Yesterdays biggest logistical challenge was how to get a group of 12 to Pen Y Pass, more specifically how to park 3 cars, but a few shuttle runs later and some inspirational lift thumbing from Rich B and we were back as one group heading upwards towards Crib Goch.

A damp start to Day One at Pen Y Pass

With a real mix of abilities and retail staff from all around the country, including Cave & Crag in Settle and Go Outdoors in Newport and Oxford and Kudos in Cardiff, the classic Welsh ridge was going to be a fantastic introduction to Wales. For some it would turn out to be a baptism of Fire, especially for one girl who until now had never been even been on a mountain in her life, let alone to Snowdonia. For her it was a stirling effort and a real show of courage and commitment to get across the knife edge ridge of Crib Goch particularly given the greasy and slippy nature of the rock.




L-R Kelly, Dave, Adam, Rich B and Lewis


And thats whats the essence of these courses, giving everyone, no matter what their previous experience a real mountain day. Some speedier members of the group managed to continue over Crib Y Ddyssgyl and experience the new cafe on the summit of Snowdon. I am told on a busy half term day, it looks little better than the previous shelter!




Descending from the Pinnacles of Crib Goch - Glaslyn behind


Today we've been in much smaller groups, one group heading off to experience an introduction to roped scrambling, having a great day out on Pulpit route and the Continuation Crack before heading over Tryfan, another group has had an introduction to climbing and abseiling on Tryfan Bach and another group has spent the day learning rope skills and having an introduction to climbing both indoors and outdoors.


Learning to climb in Snowdonia

Monday, 26 October 2009

American Alpine Club International Meet- Indian Creek

Ruth Taylor and myself have just returned from an amazing 3 week trip to the States. We started off on a 10 day trip to Indian creek and Cottonwood Canyon organised by the AAC and Brittany Griffith then tagged our own trip on the end.





We landed in Salt Lake City late one evening, met up with 22 other international climbers from all over the world, from Japan to Latvia. The next morning we were shoehorned into a pair of minivans and whisked away straight to Indian Creek. That evening was spent setting up the camp, checking out the amazing desert scenery and getting psyched for some crack climbing pain!



5 days later after much skin, tape, chalk and dignity had been lost we had dragged ourselves to the top of a rack of amazing splitter crack lines. New jamming skills acquired we headed back to Salt Lake for showers and the AAC organised Craggin' Classic being held in Cottonwood Canyon. This was like one of our climbing festivals similar to the one held in the Gower in August. Basically some climbing, some partying (as much as is possible with Utah regulated 3.2% Beer - thankfully free!) slideshows by speakers including Steve House and Andy Burr. The weekend and the International Meet finished off with some films in a small independent cinema in Salt Lake and much swopping of details between the host climbers and internationals.





We spent the next 10 days driving a huge truck on a whistlestop tour of Red Rocks, Las Vegas, Moab and Maple Canyon before we headed back home with tired arms and another dose of jetlag to welcome us back to work.

Friday, 23 October 2009

Assistant Apparel Designer wanted

The time has come.
Mountain Equipment has been growing steadily for the last few years with an increasing product range and an unfaltering commitment to excellence, but even we have to admit that it's become too much work.
We need somebody to help out, learn the ropes and become a key part of the team.
If you love the outdoors (if you're reading the blog, you must be a bit of an outdoor nerd, right?) and are excited about designing technical apparel, this could be your opportunity.

You should have degree-level design qualifications, or equivalent experience.
Send your C.V. and examples of your work to:
sam.stephenson@mountain-equipment.co.uk

What to pack?

Well I'm going to be spending the next couple of weeks out in the mountains of North Wales. So i've spent the afternoon sifting through my hoards of kit trying to decide what to pack. I think there is definitely a point at which you can have far too much kit, but thats one of the hard parts of working on product development.

Normally my pack is lying in my cupboard waiting to go, but every year, around this time, everything falls apart as I attempt to deal with the whole Summer-Winter transition. But having checked the
MWIS forecast I think the most I will have to contend with is Autumn Gales and Heavy rain, winter seems to have disappeared for the time being.

So at the risk of being mobbed by die-hard fans of Mountain Equipment (do you exist? Are you on our new facebook page?)I will not disclose too much, other than to say we'll be working with upto 40 members of retail staff from all around the country over the coming week or two in the mountains of Snowdonia. We'll hopefully be updating our blog every day with reports.

See you in the Snowdonia perhaps.

Wednesday, 21 October 2009

'Single-Handed scoops 2 awards!

Last weekend saw the premiere of ‘Single-Handed’ at the 7th Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival.

"Single-Handed" is a short film based around Mountain Equipment Pro Partner Kev Shields who has a partial left-hand and suffers with epilepsy. The film follows Kev and his progression through the climbing grades culminating in his solo of an E6 at Glen Nevis, Scotland. (Kev has since gone on to solo E7)

'Single-Handed' was awarded ‘Best Climbing Film’ and the ‘People’s Choice’ award at the Festival and recieve a tremendous response 300 strong audience.

The film is also a finalist at the prestigious Banff Mountain Film Festival (Canada) and it will also play at the Kendal Mountain Festival (UK) late November.

Single-Handed is taken from the DVD 'Monkey See Monkey Do' released on Monday, for more information and how to get a copy go to
www.hotaches.com

view the trailer here


Monday, 19 October 2009

A perfect day?

An early-ish start and i was whizzing down the M6 to pick up Sam en route to North Wales, destination Plas Y Brenin.

A rainbow shines across the Llanberis Pass.

Our close ties with Plas Y Brenin, means that North Wales sometimes feels like a second home and our aim for later that day was a variety of meetings and formal feedback sessions with the instructors and staff.

But the early start was to give us enough time for a quick blast up some hopefully dry rock and as we veered off the A55 and headed down towards Betws Y Coed, things were looking promising, sure there was a bit of hill-fog but nothing too threatening.

As we parked up at the Cromlech boulders it was feeling a little gloomy but the rock looked dry and so with a couple of hours to spare we opted to head across to Dinas Mot and climb Western Slabs.

Looking up towards Dinas Mot

It had been a while since Sam had been on a multi pitch route, especially in the gloom of a Welsh Autumn and so this was the perfect route to get back into the groove of leading again. For anyone who has climbed this will know its a great little route with decent belays and plenty of gear that weaves its way up the right hand side of Dinas Mot.

Looking down Pitch 2 of Western Slabs. VS4c.

By the time we got to the last pitch, the clouds had lowered and a fine drizzly mist was settling in, adding a little spice to the afternoon and ensuring a thoroughly damp abseil retreat from the top. If proof were needed that hooded softshells are a good idea on mixed weather days this was it.

Rain approaches Llanberis.

Rich rigging the abseil for a hasty retreat

An hour later we were sat in the bar at Plas Y Brenin, chatting about our impending Winter 2010 sales launch over a warm cup of tea before heading off to bag more tea and cake in the staff room. The following few hours were spent chatting with the instructors, gleaning feedback on existing products, discussing new products, new hoods and generally listening to their opinions. That is afterall the whole point of why we work with them.

Sam retreating from Dinas Mot

Two hours later and it was all over and we were heading back across to Llanberis for some much needed food and a pint. The perfect day? Well it certainly wasnt bad.