In the footsteps of legends

In one legendary week on Ben Nevis in 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith transformed the shape of Scottish winter mountaineering. On consecutive days they climbed six first winter ascents, including the mini Alpine-route Orion Face Direct (V, 5), while also making the second and much quicker ascent of Point Five Gully (V, 5) for good measure - in 7 hours as opposed to more than 40 hours when previously climbed.

Good conditions on Ben Nevis this week - copyright Hot Aches Productions

The fact they achieved all this using rudimentary ice-climbing gear and by cutting steps up the snow and ice appears, from the remove of the 21st century, to be almost unbelievable. This was a feat of fitness, skill and commitment that arguably represents the finest achievement in ice climbing using the step cutting technique and among the most outstanding performances ever in British mountaineering.

In the footsteps of legends on the Ben - copyright Hot Aches Productions

To mark the 50th anniversary of this historic achievement Mountain Equipment Pro Partners Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner are attempting to repeat Marshall and Smith's feat this week as part of a celebration orchestrated by the Fort William Mountain Festival which takes place this weekend.

MacLeod and Turner are arguably akin to a modern day Marshall and Smith as they are both currently pushing climbing standards forward years ahead of anyone else. Despite their modern equipment and techniques this project will be an arduous test of their fitness and the weather, ice conditions and threat of avalanches will also have a huge impact on the challenge they face.

Dave MacLeod in Minus Three Gully - copyright Hot Aches Productions

The whole project is being filmed by Paul Diffley for the Fort William Mountain Festival which commences this weekend. Some fantastic footage from the first two days is already online, you can find it along with the latest progress updates at http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/ and http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/jimmymarshallproject.asp

Andy Turner in the Great Gully - copyright Hot Aches Productions

This Sunday 14th is sure to be a fantastic night at the festival as Jimmy Marshall will make a personal appearance at the festival alongside Dave and Andy to talk about their experiences during the week and contrast these with Jimmy’s recollections of cutting hand and footholds with once ice axe on the climbs. This is sure to be a significant moment in modern Scottish Climbing history and a night not to be missed.

You can buy your tickets online here: http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/programme.asp#sun14

The full list of climbs:
The Great Chimney (IV,5) 6th February 1960
Minus Three Gully (IV,5) 7th February 1960
Smith's Route (V,5) 8th February 1960
Observatory Buttress (V,4) 9th February 1960
Point Five Gully (V,5) 10th February 1960
Piggot's Route (V,6) 12th February 1960
Orion Direct (V,5) 13th February 1960

Vote for Ben Nevis

The John Muir Trust needs your vote to help us win 30,000 EUROS for conservation work on Ben Nevis. Trail magazine has presented six projects from different environmental groups and is inviting votes for which you think most deserves money from the EOG Association for Conservation.

Ben Nevis is wild land at its best. We want to preserve this quality for nature and people so that wildlife flourishes and the Ben’s many visitors can access and enjoy its breathtaking beauty. This funding will help us and our partners maintain good quality access and footpaths, and tackle the rubbish which blights the mountain.Please vote now on http://www.jmt.org/news.asp?s=2&nid=JMT-N10447 - and ask your friends to vote before 10th February 2010.

British Mountain Guides Open Day

The British Association of Mountain Guides, BMG, is to hold an Open Day at Plas y Brenin, Capel Curig, North Wales on Saturday 22 May 2010.

The BMG first ran this event in 2006 with 25 participants attending the day which was aimed at promoting Guiding as a career and explaining the BMG training scheme; it is open to alpinists who would like to find out more about the profession of guiding as a career.

The life of a mountain guide is very rewarding, yet can be very demanding and it is important from the outset to attract the right calibre of climbers and mountaineers. The pre requirements for joining the BMG training scheme are extensive, and part of the open day will focus on helping participants achieve these objectives. This is a great opportunity to meet the BMG Training officer, Guides involved in the training scheme and also to get to know BMG guides who can assist you on your road to becoming an IFMGA guide.

All participants must have extensive British and Alpine climbing and mountaineering experience and have a genuine interest in guiding as a career. This day should be of particular interest to experienced alpinists and MIC holders with alpine experience.

Photo - British Mountain Guide and Plas y Brenin Chief instructor Martin Chester at work

Potential applicants should not worry if they haven’t yet achieved the level of the BMG training Scheme entry requirements, as part of the open day is to give you advice on how best to attain these pre requisites. You should however expect to be able to meet these entry requirements within the next 5 years. If in doubt send in an application and we will advise you.

There is a small charge of £30 to cover lunch and all presentations / activities (which is, however, only to be paid when an application is successful) Application forms must be submitted by email or post to reach the BMG by the 1st May 2010 and are available, along with all details of the open day and the scheme in general, in the ‘guide training’ section of the BMG website: www.bmg.org.uk

For further information email: guiding@bmg.org.uk or contact the BMG office at BMG, Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig LL24 0ES. Telephone 01690 720386.

A different sort of Alpine start

I too had an early start on Sunday, but I was not chasing ice.

Saturday had been so cold, still and sunny it was obvious that Sunday morning should be 2010's first early morning boulder session.
I awoke at 6am to find a light covering of snow outside. Hmmm. "Well, I'm up now so may as well go and have a look".

I left the house at 6.30 with no glimmer of dawn under the starless sky. I got as far as the other side of Buxton on my way to the Newstones before it started snowing. As the road climbed higher I slowly realised that it wasn't going to be good clean bracing fun. With the wind and snow it was going to be grim and horrible. And it was still dark.

So I turned tail and headed for the softer landscape of the Limestone. I parked in Cressbrook village and walked in the now daylight to Water Cum Jolly, for a first visit to Rubicon in some 12 years, or something...
Its not that I don't like Peak Limestone (and I have been living abroad for a few years) but I always enjoyed Grit so much.

Anyway, there was enough climbing around the massive pool at the bottom of most problems to make the drive worthwhile. Note to self: Must get better at precise foot placements on polished rock.

Winter continues.....

Another couple of great days in the Lake District. Conditions up high remain good for winter hill-walking and climbing. A full report can be found here.

Window Gully (Upper Icefall Finish) III & SE Gully (III)

An early start (06.50am) saw us leaving the house as the moon was beginning to set in the western skies, our destination, Great End.

The moon lighting the road - it wasnt 25c by the way!

Looking up towards Great End

Arriving at the base of the crag as the first rays of Sun hit the summit rocks

Central Gully and SE Gully - note the climbers at the base

Upper Icefall Variation (III)

Atop Great End

We topped out into morning heaven. Weak winter sunshine, no winds and crystal clear views over the surrounding fells and out to the Isle of Man and Southern Scotland.

Spring Route - IV - The Old Man of Coniston

And so to Sunday.

The first rays of sun were gracing the slopes of the Old Man of Coniston as one rather lethargic climber (me) wandered off along the track from the Walna Scar car park.

Early morning sun on The Old Man of Coniston

We took a quick divertion on the approach to see whether Low Water Beck was any closer to re-forming, it was, but still some way away from being climbable again.

Low Water Beck - forming but not quite in condition

After the initial icefall, our route ran R-L across the buttress on the Right

Stepped bulges offer a few rest places

Looking down on a frozen Low Water

I wonder what winter 2011/12 will be like?

The MET office are clearly have some difficulty with the accuracy of their long-term forecasts, but I have some sympathy with them - I think there was a 20% probability of this winter being colder than average. Well 20% of their office was right then, I would say thats pretty good.

Where will our journey take us?

And I too am now considering data and trying to come up with some probable scenario's for the winter season...in 2011/12. We are at the very beginning of our Winter 2011/12 development timetable and in just a few weeks our design team will be wanting development briefs so that they can start the tasks of designing what will hopefully be an awesome new collection.

Answers on a postcard or for you IT savvy types, post a comment!

Andy Turner in this months Climber Magazine

Make sure you grab a copy of this months Climber magazine (Feb'10) where you will find Mountain Equipment pro partner Andy Turner feature in Libby Peters "Rock Essentials" article on Dry Tooling .