In the footsteps of legends

In one legendary week on Ben Nevis in 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith transformed the shape of Scottish winter mountaineering. On consecutive days they climbed six first winter ascents, including the mini Alpine-route Orion Face Direct (V, 5), while also making the second and much quicker ascent of Point Five Gully (V, 5) for good measure - in 7 hours as opposed to more than 40 hours when previously climbed.

Good conditions on Ben Nevis this week - copyright Hot Aches Productions

The fact they achieved all this using rudimentary ice-climbing gear and by cutting steps up the snow and ice appears, from the remove of the 21st century, to be almost unbelievable. This was a feat of fitness, skill and commitment that arguably represents the finest achievement in ice climbing using the step cutting technique and among the most outstanding performances ever in British mountaineering.

In the footsteps of legends on the Ben - copyright Hot Aches Productions

To mark the 50th anniversary of this historic achievement Mountain Equipment Pro Partners Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner are attempting to repeat Marshall and Smith's feat this week as part of a celebration orchestrated by the Fort William Mountain Festival which takes place this weekend.

MacLeod and Turner are arguably akin to a modern day Marshall and Smith as they are both currently pushing climbing standards forward years ahead of anyone else. Despite their modern equipment and techniques this project will be an arduous test of their fitness and the weather, ice conditions and threat of avalanches will also have a huge impact on the challenge they face.

Dave MacLeod in Minus Three Gully - copyright Hot Aches Productions

The whole project is being filmed by Paul Diffley for the Fort William Mountain Festival which commences this weekend. Some fantastic footage from the first two days is already online, you can find it along with the latest progress updates at http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/ and http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/jimmymarshallproject.asp

Andy Turner in the Great Gully - copyright Hot Aches Productions

This Sunday 14th is sure to be a fantastic night at the festival as Jimmy Marshall will make a personal appearance at the festival alongside Dave and Andy to talk about their experiences during the week and contrast these with Jimmy’s recollections of cutting hand and footholds with once ice axe on the climbs. This is sure to be a significant moment in modern Scottish Climbing history and a night not to be missed.

You can buy your tickets online here: http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/programme.asp#sun14

The full list of climbs:
The Great Chimney (IV,5) 6th February 1960
Minus Three Gully (IV,5) 7th February 1960
Smith's Route (V,5) 8th February 1960
Observatory Buttress (V,4) 9th February 1960
Point Five Gully (V,5) 10th February 1960
Piggot's Route (V,6) 12th February 1960
Orion Direct (V,5) 13th February 1960