Wednesday, 23 February 2011

DAV Expedition Team 2012 - Training Update

The Guys from at the DAV Expedition team have just dropped us an update on what they have been up to over the past 3 months.....

Team member Sebi out in Chamonix

Fitness-Test and Training - 08/12/10

"On 08.12.10 me and the rest of the DAV Expedition Team headed to Bamberg, Bavaria with our team coach David Goettler and writer Alexandra Albert (Alexandra will publish a book about the team after our last big expedition in 2012). A fitness test had been arranged for us at the university's hospital. The doctors wanted to check our general fitness and health to ensure that we were all strong and fit enough to cope with expedition goals we have been set over the next two years.

Lab tests at Bamberg University Hospital

Measuring our weight, checking bloods, heart capacity and our general condition; were just a few of tests we were put through... the results of which were more than satisfying: all six of us are at our best. The doctors were absolutely astonished by the very impressive condition of one team member: Sebi - who is already working as a mountain guide.

Master class with Guido Koestermeyer

The next day, we met a famous climbing coach in the gym of Forchheim: Guido Koestermeyer. He talked about training plans for professional sports climbing."

Argentière - 03 – 12/01/11

"With the expectation to do some fine ice routes, we started on 3rd January and header to the Dauphiné and set up our basecamp in Argentière-la-Bessé. We had the chance to do some fine routes like - Gramusat directe (WI6, 320m) Geronimo (WI5+, 550m), and Finesse et delicatesse (WI5+, 220m). Because of the warm climate we had to move on to Cervière and Les Orres. The difficulty of these routes wasn't that high, so we could practice our speed skills and getting in to a routine as a team.

We also climbed a difficult mixed route on Grottes des Hirondelles called Promoccion sociale (M10).

The Exped Team would like to thank Francois Lombard for the support on this trip."

Chamonix - 11/02/11

"After a night of acclimation in the mountain station, we started to climb a route on the Grand Rocheuse (4102m) called - Too late to say I`m sorry (1000m; ED+; Ice: 70-90°; Rock: V, A2).

Mirko on - Too Late to say I'm sorry

The conditions were pretty good, so that we had no problems climbing the route. After a bivouac on the Midi Plan, we traversed the Col des Pelerins. This mixed route - Rebuffat-Terray (550m; Rock V; Ice: 85°; Mixed: 5) on the North face of Aiguille des Pelerins was also good to climb we then descended back to Chamonix later that day.

Max enjoying his birthday out in Chamonix

This route was a big birthday present to team member Max.

Max on Männer ohne Nerven

Two days later team member Max and David Göttler (trainer) went to the Pinistal where they climbed Männer ohne Nerven (150m, WI 6-) and Kerze (60m, WI 6)."