1st Ascent: 'Wüstenblume' - Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites

First Ascent on Heiligkreuzkofel – Dolomites

Route: Wüstenblume (400m, 9 pitches, VIII+)

During this summer Ulli & his climbing partner Josef Hilpold made a successful 1st ascent of a project they have been working on the west face of Heiligkreukofel in the Dolomites.

The Westface of Heiligkreuzkofel has a breathtaking 600m face – known from the first ascent of the ‘Mittelpfeiler’ (middle spur) by Reinhold & Günther Messner in 1968.

Ulli & Josef worked on their route ‘Wüstenblume’ for several days this summer – and made their 1^st Ascent on Sep 28^th climbing the route in 8 hours.

Here's the report from Ulli... 

Abenteuer  – ALPINISMUS pur      

Erstbegehung am Heiligkreuzkofel – Dolomiten

‘Wüstenblume’ (400m, 9 SL, VIII+)

"Südtirol ist bekannt für seine außergewöhnlichen Kletterer und Alpinisten. Zwei von Ihnen sind Ulrich Viertler und Josef Hilpold. Für beide ist mit der Erstbegehung der ‘Wüstenblume’ am Heiligkreuzkofel ein lang ersehnter Traum in Erfüllung gegangen.

Die Liste seiner extremen Wiederholungen ist lang, doch für Ulrich Viertler zählen weniger Grade und Leistungen als der ästhetische und emotionale Wert seiner Touren.

Der Heiligkreuzkofel, 2908 Meter hoch, befindet sich in der Fanesgruppe in den Dolomiten.  Durch seine atemberaubende - zugleich majestätische Form und  der bis zu 600 Meter hohen Westwand, zählt er sicherlich zu einem der eindruckvollsten Berge in den Dolomiten.

Nicht zuletzt wurde die Wand 1968, durch den von Reinhold und Günther Messner eröffneten Mittelpfeiler bekannt, eine der damals schwierigsten Routen überhaupt.

An sechs Tagen im Sommer 2013 gelang es den beiden diese unglaubliche Linie zu eröffnen. Abgesichert wurde ausschließlich traditionell mit Schlaghaken und mobilen Sicherungen, wie es am Heiligkreuzkofel üblich ist. Die Route verläuft in der Hauptwand am rechten Pfeiler zwischen der Mutschlecher - Großrubatscher Gedächtnisführe und der Mayerl - Verschneidung.

Am 28. September war es nun schlussendlich so weit und es gelang ihnen in 8 Stunden die Route an einem Stück frei zu klettern. „Es war alles perfekt, es passte einfach alles. Ein großartiges Erlebnis mit vielen Emotionen geht zu Ende.“

Den beiden Südtiroler Alpinisten ist es ein großes Anliegen das Alpinklettern in seiner ursprünglichen Art und Weise zu erhalten und insbesondere die Tradition am Heiligkreuzkofel, wo noch ausschließlich mit Schlaghaken und mobilen Sicherungsmitteln ohne Zuhilfenahme von Bohrhaken geklettert wird, zu respektieren und diese Werte auch weiterzugeben. Mit dieser außergewöhnlichen Erstbegehung  ist Ihnen das sicherlich gelungen!!

Es ist ein Ort,

der Freiheit,     

der glücklich  macht.                                                                                     

Ulli" 

Scott Expedition: Farewell London

This week Ben and Tarka said farewell to London as they set off for Antarctica to take on the Scott Expedition. It's a long journey South that will take several weeks to get to the starting point but they will be in touch on route with a full update on final preparations. Heres a short video of their farewell...

Ben and Tarka at the Shard, London

Keep up to date with all the latest at http://www.scottexpedition.com 

PRODUCT SAFETY NOTICE: Slacklines

If you have purchased/own a Mountain Equipment Slackline please read the important information at this link:

English: http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/Library/pdf/Slackline_Check_ME_ENG_UKoffice%20edit.pdf 

German:http://de.mountain-equipment.co.uk/Library/pdf/ME_Slackline_safety%20notice_german.pdf

If you have any further questions please feel free to email us at: products@mountain-equipment.co.uk

Video: The Reality Face - A new route in the Alaska Range

Heres a great edit put together by friend of the brand Max Hasson of Jens, Jared and Seth who teamed up with the goal of climbing into the unknown and managed to weave their way up Reality Peak over the course of 3 days. They grappled with steep ice, a long bivy and an epic slog across the 'Ridge of no Return'... 

Check out more at - 

Alpinist story:
alpinist.com/doc/web13x/newswire-reality-peak-first-ascent-alaska

Jens' blog:
jensholsten.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-reality-face-new-route-in-alaska.html

Anglo-Indian Expedition: Update from Andy

"Hey there and yes my back seems to be doing the job still.Am in Leh, having spent time in a field hospital then the Leh one and now am in a great hotel.

What happened was that on the night of the 15th August a huge avalanche hit where we were camped for the night. We were on our way back to reclimb the col at 6150 meters in order to get back to our base camp on the other side. Worried about running out of food and getting trapped by the weather we had decided to leave our Indian friends to climb peak 7019 and concentrate on the other summit - Plateau peak. So there we were in our sleeping bags when my tent and all was just blasted into the air,this came from the north side of Sasser Kangi 11, a 2000 meter high face and went across a glacier of say 1 /1.5 kilometers to hit us. The anchors holding our tents were just ripped out(Victor and Susan were rolled twenty meters but were okay), Me I went that and then was dropped twenty meters down a crevasse head first and backwards,the tent exploding and we I ended jammed by my elbow in the ice. This I freed by clawing at the ice with my un-gloved free hand (a bit of frostbite) and the chipping at the ice with a broken tent pole. I fell free into a standing position, still in my sleeping bag but wedged in between the walls of the bottom of the crevasse. My gear was strewn around, I found a glove.Thinking that I was paralysed in my left side I had decided that if I couldn't get out I would lay down and die. Not before trying all options though. I had no crampons or axes so couldn't climb and looked for a ramp or something, maybe to the south as to the north it was all vertical ice. I had one of your whistles around my neck so sounded it not expecting a reply as I felt sure that Victor and Susan were dead and that I had been spared to die a slower death. To my surprise, above me there was a shout then I saw a light on the surface. Still not sure whether they knew where I was I rummaged about in the debris of the tent at my feet to find my headlamp and signalled with that, A bit later a rope dropped down and Victor rappelled in and helped me get on boots and harness. I managed to prussick and they hauled until I was clear. I Emerged into a full storm and they put me into the remaining tent (my old bomproof Macpac) and there we were all jammed with me almost suffocating from a breathing problem when another avalanche struck us. I didn't think we would survive but the tent held this time and we could leave next morning, back down to the base camp we left the day before. I staggered behind the others in total agony until after a couple of hours they left me in the tent, I spent a worrying night with bouts of suffocating until next morning the Sherpas of our Indian friends appeared to carry me on a rope stretcher across the glacier, for hours in deep snow to camp. There we all waited a couple of days, with snow falling, on limited food until the call came that we were on standby from the Indian army and then two Allouette helicopters appeared and we flew out and down the N.Shukpa glacier at zero feet, under the cloud ceiling.That night I slept in a field hospital and the next day,for two hours we flew out to Leh and its hospital. I had a CT scan that showed I had a fractured Sacral(no 3) and other chips and bruises. All should heal okay. We lost a lot of kit and I presume Victor some how managed as I hear that they have done the first ascent of peak 7019 or Chamsen (unofficial name) also we all did the first traverse of the Sasser col(6150) meters from the Sakang glacier to the North Shukpa glacier. So a lot of exploration was carried out.The crossing of the col proved to be dangerous due to rockfall and also it became a trap too,this closed upon us once it had gone over.

I have to say your gear kept me alive, in the crevasse in the sleeping bag I felt surprisingly warm, despite everything getting wet.The clothing was great,as I had just enough to keep warm, the new Eclipse micro grid undershirt is really good,the fleece too and of course the K7 down jacket you sent me. I couldnt have survived without any of it. Will have more news in a few days,back in Chamonix on the 5/6th September Andy"

Scott Expedition: What jackets are best for Antarctica?

Here's a great video from Ben, Andy and Tems recent visit to our Manchester, HQ to talk clothing and equipment ahead of Scott Expedition in October.
    

Check out further videos and the latest at http://www.youtube.com/user/ScottExpedition

GORE-TEX Pro Week: Lhotse and Women's Manaslu Jacket's

The Lhotse and Women's Manaslu Jackets represent the pinnacle of waterproof protection for the most serious mountain all-rounders. Combining new generation GORE-TEX® Pro with our STORM Construction techniques, they take Mountain Equipment’s hardshell engineering to the next level. With up to 28% greater breathability and even better durability new GORE-TEX® Pro is built specifically for the most demanding applications. When combined with our 40D face fabric and even tougher 80D fabric reinforcements it becomes an exceptional choice for severe four-season mountain use.



A new and painstakingly engineered Alpine Cut offers exceptional fit and mobility which will be equally appreciated by mountaineers and hill walkers alike. Our renowned Mountain HC Hood swallows a climbing helmet but cinches down to offer equally perfect vision and mobility on remote treks through driving rain. The wired and laminated peak ensures performance in the face of violent gusts where less structured models can leave you unable to operate effectively.

Dave Rudkin - Pyb Instructor, GORE-TEX Pro product test, Chamonix 2013

photo: Lukasz Warzecha/www.lwimages.co.uk  

Consisting of two large chest pockets and a cavernous Napoleon pocket our Stratum Storage System ensures that the essentials remain accessible when wearing a rucksack or climbing harness. A new YKK® Aquaguard® moulded front zip is easy to use in difficult conditions and keeps working smoothly even as your jacket rimes up in inhospitable icy gullies. Laminated and bonded pit zips provide extra ventilation for heavily laden
walk-ins through driving snow and incessant drizzle.



Simple but highly protective shells that do it all, the Lhotse and Manaslu Jackets are equally at home on steep technical ground and in rain lashed valleys. Combining full specification design with features and fabrics guaranteed to perform in the worst weather they are the obvious choice for those who demand performance and simplicity.

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More information at http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/Goretex-pro