Nick Bullock Lectures:Echoes & Beyond, Escaping the system, aka, I hope its warm in Scotland.

Over to Nick "Here is the final, although there might be one that creeps in at the Beacon Climbing Wall, list of lectures for January.

                                                                          

The talk, at most of these dates, will cover a a bit about writing Echoes and a story from it, which will be about attempting Savoia Kangri in Pakistan. Some pics to music from the book, then moving up to date with the trip to Canada last March with Rob Chopper Greenwood, Ray Wood and Ray Saunders film about climbing some crumbly rock horror on The Lleyn and some film and pics about climbing The Slovak Direct in Alaska. The grand finale will be some more pics to bumping music.                                                                                              

Please be aware, unless you come to the Outdoor Show talks which I’ve made suitable for children, there will be strong language and hopefully much banter and even maybe a tad of mayhem. Please don’t come along expecting factual, sensible and suitable for you’re gran, I don’t do suitable for you’re gran!                                                                                   

The other different talk is of course the BMC Expedition Symposium which WILL be factual and reasonably sensible and will have film and music. This talk will cover The Sharks Fin, Savoia Kangri, Annapurna III and The Slovak Direct.                                                                   

Oh, and the New Hampshire talk is different again, hardcore climbing, hardcore music, much mayhem, but its in America so unless you’re out there already I wouldn’t bother as the expense will be high : ) "                                                                                                           

Nick

January 8th: Shrewsbury for www.highsports.co.uk, High Sports, 51/52 Wyle Cop, Shrewsbury, SY1 1XJ

January 9th: Lutterworth College for The Bowline Climbing Club, Leicestershire. http://www.bowlineclimbingclub.co.uk/

January 10th: Harrogate Climbing Centre http://www.harrogateclimbingcentre.com/

January 12th: BMC Expedition Symposium Plas y Brenan. North Wales. http://www.thebmc.co.uk/

January 17th to 20th: London Outdoor Show for DMM. http://dmmclimbing.com/

January 24th: Solihull Mountaineering Club. Old Edwardians Rugby Club, Streetsbrook Road, Solihull, B90 3PE http://www.solihullmc.org.uk/index.html

January 29th: Manchester climbing Centre http://www.manchesterclimbingcentre.com/

February 1st – 3rd: Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival, New Hampshire, USA. http://www.mwv-icefest.com/

photo: Andy Houseman

GET: Fourteen Peaks Challenge

We've teamed up with our friends at WL GORE to offer one lucky Mountain Equipment Fan the chance to join the 2013 GORE-TEX Experience Tour: 14 Peaks Challenge in North Wales: 18th – 22nd March 2013.

Our winner will be heading to Wales to join the G.E.T Team and attempt to climb all of Snowdonia National Park’s 3,000ft+ peaks in five days. The challenge will also include taking in some of Snowdonia’s classic ridges walks, including the Snowdon Horseshoe and the chance try out New Mountain Equipment products in Next Generation GORE-TEX Pro fabric months before anyone else.

  

On the first day you will practice and revise the skills needed to tackle the bigger peaks. The following four days will be spent on the hills, visiting some of the most stunning locations in the National Park. The four hill days are likely to be split as follows:

·       Snowdon Horseshoe, 3 peaks plus other smaller summits (this includes an exposed grade 1 scramble)

·       Walking the Carneddau Ridge, covering 6 peaks in one big day out!

·       Scramble on Tryfan, 1 peak – nearly a rest day …

·       Traverse of the Glyders to include the remaining 4 Peaks

The Team

The team will be led by the experienced guides of the National Mountain Centre - Plas y Brenin. As well as knowing the mountains, they are experts in the local flora and fauna so will be able to give our winner an incredible first hand insight into the area.

How do I enter?

Head to GET Website Click the apply button, fill out your details to register. You will then be taken to the application page select ‘Mountain Equipment Channels’ from the 'where did you hear about this' drop down menu, tell us more about yourself and then submit you’re application, Simple.

Closing date for applications is the 18^th January 2013. The Mountain Equipment team will then review all applications and select one lucky winner to join the G.E.T Team.

Requirements

·       You must live in Europe

·       You will be minimum 18 years of age

·       You must be physically and mentally fit

·       Have English language skills (the Experience Tour project will be held in English

For further information please refer to the G.E.T Website

Heres a taster from our 2011 G.E.T project: Big Wall Climbing with Dave MacLeod in Norway - http://youtu.be/x4aeP5c5Cg4

A Quick Trip to the Cairngorms

The plan had been simple, head to the Cairngorms early so that we could climb on Sunday and do some work on Monday.  Sat at home in Kendal I scoured the various forecasts and conditions reports to be met by the promise of some even more unpleasant weather than normal in Scotland and the end of a brief thaw, it didn’t sound appealing.  Instead we decided to take a risk on the most optimistic forecast I could find for the Lakes which suggested that it might cool down just enough to make a winter route viable.


Andy looking pleased to be out in the Cairngorms

As we left the car at the Old Dungeon Ghyll in Langdale the thermometer read 6◦C but if anything it felt even warmer than that.  We set off more for the exercise than anything and by the time we were most of the way up the Band I was starting to feel a bit over equipped for Lakeland hill walking.  We made the only logical decision and headed to Bilbo’s for coffee and a bacon sandwich.



Gearing up belopw the Mess of Pottage, a very white Fiacaill Buttress beyond

By mid-afternoon we were driving north looking forward to a busy work day on Monday but slightly dejected about the lack of climbing.  Fortunately the morning brought a return to proper winter weather and we headed into the Northern Corries to shoot some product videos for next winter’s new range of hardshells.  We learnt quite a bit, the main thing being that talking to camera in a coherent way whilst being snowed on is hard even in a futuristic orange jacket.  Our product manager Rich T. was in full director mode, think Christopher Nolan in a Citadel Jacket, but finally we had enough footage to hone our editing skills with.  A meeting with the Scottish Avalanche Information Service team followed at Glenmore Lodge and we showed them some of the new Winter ‘13 Gore-Tex Pro designs that they’re input had helped to develop.  Fortunately they all looked suitably impressed by the huge amount of work that’s been done and we all headed to Digger’s for wine and strudel.

By now I’d noticed that the forecast for Tuesday could only be described as stellar with no wind, low temperatures and superb visibility.  The only issue was that it was a Tuesday and, even at ME, just going climbing on work days is generally frowned upon.  Unfortunately Rich had to head south for his trip to China but Andy and I persuaded ourselves it would be ok if we just did a quick route in Sneachda…. it would only take a couple of hours if we were quick. 
 

Andy making progress up the first pitch

Nearly running into the corrie it was just as perfect as MWIS had promised and we made rapid progress towards the Mess of Pottage with a view to getting something done fast.  The crag was plastered in most places and it was already clear that gear was going to be hard to come by in places.  Aiming for a fairly direct and not overly hard line Andy set off up the first pitch of  Yukon Jack and made fairly steady progress between gear stuffed and hammered into icy cracks.  I followed as fast as I could before setting off into the line of Hidden Chimney in the interests of speed, inevitably we were already running late.  Perfect neve made for rapid climbing and we were soon pulling ourselves over the final chockstone into the sunshine.  The views from the top were incredible with perfect visibility and still no wind at all.  The Loch Avon basin looked incredible and it was no surprise to hear later that Sticil Face on the Shelter Stone was done that day, a classic tick that still eludes me.  We stuffed everything away as quickly as we could and set off down towards the ski car park at a run.  Four hours, and some rep-tastic over-taking by Andy on the A9, later we were back in Kendal, behind on work but glad to have grabbed a rare perfect day in the Cairngorms. 

Stunning views at the top but the mission back south ahead

 

 

Ski Touring in Blizzard Conditions - It's all about 'starting cold' and keeping your sanity!

On Friday 7th December, the Whitedot testing team in Chamonix took advantage of lift pre-opening and superb early season conditions to get some uphill miles on the CarbonLite Ranger (all-access freeride ski due for release in the New Year). With the snow thumping down and the avalanche risk at level 4 of 5, the team decided to take on the forest trails of Les Houches to give ourselves a workout. 

 

Les Houches is Chamonix valley's 'go to' location when the snow is falling hard. The forest runs really help counter flat-light conditions and reduce avalanche risk. Additionally, the history of the Kandahar Downhill is always inspirational - even on the uphill slog!

Getting going is always the hard part of ski touring - finding your rhythm, temperature control, and when it is snowing - finding the right combination of weather protection versus ventilation. After half an hour, inevitably you start to focus and the mind starts to unwind - all that matters is to keep a metronomic pace. 

But getting to this point takes a little practice and the right set up. The key is to 'start cold' and to layer your kit properly'. The conditions we were working in on Friday were minus 3-4 degrees, and snowing at about 5cm per hour, no wind (thankfully!). For me, the combination of a wicking baselayer (LS Groundup), cotton tee, and the Changabang ME shell provide, along with a thin merino wool hat, were perfect. 

After a couple of hours of uphill slog on forest trails, the Les Houches ridge line appeared and thoughts turn to chocolate, flask of hot coffee and warm kit. Ordinarily, the Les Houches ridge line is one of those places in the world which stops you in your tracks - the views are some of the best in the Alps. To the east is Chamonix valley with the Aiguilles Rouge on one side and the Drus/Mont Blanc chain on the other. To the south is the Mont Blanc massif proper and running away to the West are the valleys of Bionassey, Les Contamines and Megeve. The contrast of big mountain versus the closer stuff, are aweinspiring and you feel you can reach out and touch the peaks from this spot.

 

Anyway, this wasn't the case on Friday! It was a zero visibility day and the focus was definitely on a quick re-fuel and strip the skins off the skis and get a forest powder run back down to the Bellevue car park in Les Houches. I switched from Super Alpine gloves to Couloir gloves, and added an Arete down vest to add warmth on the descent. I replaced my woolly hat with my helmet and googles and was good to go!

Needless to say 30 minutes later, and back in the car park, we all had large grins on our faces and there was 'high fives' all round - how very 'early season'!

 

Mark - Director Whitedot Skis

Sports Scotland Avalanche Information Service 2012/13

Avalanche hazard considerations should always be part of any winter hill goers daily plans. Whether you are a climber, walker or off-piste skier venturing into the hills, you should always continue to note snow and weather conditions in respect to any potential avalanche hazard.

Mark Diggins - SAIS photo Becca Joyce

Mountain Equipment are proud to work with and support the Sports Scotland Avalanche Information Service for our 7th year.   

The SAIS is funded by the Scottish Sports Council and publish vital daily forecasts of the avalanche, snow, and climbing conditions at 5 key climbing areas of Scotland during the Winter season (Dec - April).

Avalanche Information Reports for Winter 2012/13 will be issued for the weekend 7th, 8th and 9th December for Northern Cairngorms and Lochaber and daily reports for all 5 areas -

Creag Meagaidh 

Glen Coe

Lochaber

Northern Cairngorms

Southern Cairngorms

will commence on the 13th December 2012.

You can view SAIS Report pdf for 2011/12 Season here and find out further information at the SAIS Website here

Kendal Mountain Festival 2012

Its just a few weeks until Kendal Mountain festival gets underway. 

Check out this years trailer edited by Al Lee below which gives you a small taster of the films that will feature at this years festival along side some amazing lectures and events.






Mountain Equipment are proud to be a major sponsor of the KMF & sponsor of the Mountain Equipment Pub Quiz again for 2012.

Mountain Equipment Pub Quiz with Andy Kirkpatrick

Friday 16th November 12 - Malt room - 9.30pm

Last year’s inaugural Pub Quiz was a night to remember for many reasons. Kendal at its best; funny, anarchic and slightly out of control.
Once again this year Andy Kirkpatrick is at the helm so you can always expect the unexpected, while quizmaster Mick Ryan from UKClimbing sets the questions. We’ll be ensuring that topics range far and wide, including some rounds that may have nothing whatsoever to do with climbing. So make sure your team includes plenty of talent! Just 22 tables available – book early to avoid disappointment!

Tickets are sold individually, but the Quiz will be structured in teams of six. If you want to enter as a team, buy six tickets and you can all grab a table together. If you just want to take part as an individual, buy a single ticket and scratch teams will be made up on the night

Pub Quiz Tickets are available here

For further programme and ticket information head too - www.mountainfest.co.uk

ME Staff Trip to Bavaria

ME’s Martin Dixon belayed on top of some immaculate Bavarian limestone

With a mixed forecast five of us from the UK flew out to Munich to meet up with the team from our German office, the aim was to do some climbing, walking, Bavarian beer drinking and possibly even some work if time allowed..... 

Having negotiated the serious objective dangers of psychotic Transit drivers on the M61, budget car parks and airport security at 5am we emerged bleary eyed to be met by Stefan and Julia who displayed admirable German efficiency to get us to the cable car station near Spitzingee via some strong coffee.  Only about an hour south of Munich it’s a really beautiful area in the foot hills of the Alps, the higher peaks being a little under 2000m.  The dusting of early season snow on the highest tops saw the quick repack of rucksacks turn into the kind of gear faff that only occurs with people who have access to too many jackets.  Down jackets, shorts, climbing gear, food and local beer was all stuffed into rucksacks  for the next few days with the hope being that we were prepared for most things.

The Bayerland section of the DAV’s fantastic club hut

Tom, who runs all things ME in Germany, is a keen and active member of the Bayerland section of the German Alpine Club and was an essential man to have around in an area none of us knew very much about.  A very steep 20 minute downhill walk from the cable car station took us to the fantastic and out of the Bayerland club hut, a time capsule from the 1930’s that had been fine tuned through the years to become one of the most comfortable huts I’ve ever stayed in.  

  Team ME enjoying perfect weather after the initial rain

 

Steady rain on the Saturday saw a lot of coffee drunk and some relaxed meetings to discuss some of our new synthetic products for next year as well as a lively discussion about our forthcoming product videos.  Sadly my plans for a big budget production featuring Dave McLeod as Bond and Bullock as some sort of Blofeld character were shelved even before lunch.  Finally the rain gave way to overcast, chilly conditions and Andy and I decided to attempt some climbing whilst everyone else much more sensibly went for a walk.  Having searched out the most exposed crag with the least drainage we proceeded to have our egos flattened by some fairly stiff grading.  I’m used to failing on routes within my grade but being confronted by bolts in the middle of vertical blankness at about 6b was a little off putting, it made the polished horrors of Yorkshire look positively friendly.  We headed back to the hut with numb fingers and the impression that Bavarian climbers might well be considerably harder than us.

 

Topping out on one of the classics

 

Sunday turned out to be a blue sky day with blazing sunshine and warm weather that was a relief after the previous days efforts.  We all trekked over the two nearby passes, some suffering from the previous nights German hospitality more than others, to get to some really inspiring looking rock.  With everything from an easy ridgeline to harder local classics there was plenty to go at and the limiting factor in the end was our water supply on the predominantly south facing crag.  This was a great day out on quality limestone with well spaced bolts and the odd piece of trad gear to keep things from getting unnecessarily stressful.

 

Summit!  Stefan and Andy striking suitably heroic poses

Another night of German hut sport superiority followed with UK representatives being forced into some low tactics to remain competitive.  Even plying our hosts with single malt failed to dull their skills and we went to bed soundly beaten.

 

Stefan cooking another amazing meal

The final morning saw us tired but keen to get some more climbing done so 3 of us carried big loads back to the cable car before running back over the top to the previous days crag.  Time was not on our side and with the final lift of the day fast approaching we settled for a rapid ascent of some easier routes that took us once again to the fantastic summit and a mandatory big cross to belay off.  Some slick abseils and a quick walk out saw us knackered, and by now fairly smelly, back at the cable car with half an hour to spare.

Martin and Andy hiking back out with the crags behind

Ice cream by the lake and a quick tour of some local ME stockists preceeded the late flight home to Manchester.  I can only apologise to the smartly dressed business man stuck next to me on the plane who kept glancing at me and wrinkling his nose, stinking climbers don’t seem to be standard on Lufthansa’s last flight out of Munich.

Many thanks to Tom for arranging the trip and the hut for us and to all the guys at Invia for their fantastic hospitality .  Hopefully we’ll get back with our skis this winter if there’s time!

Tom hypnotising Martin……..