Martins most excellent adventure

Martins most excellent adventure. Final installment

Its 4pm. A few hours of post-show email catch-ups had turned out to be the best part of a working-day of email catch-ups. Throwing the last few pieces of kit into our packs we were soon to be off on our post-Outdoor Retailer mini-break, a 2-day trip into the remote heart of the North Cascades.

Do you get many Bears in this part of the Cascades? I enquired to Craig. The response was casually dismissive. We neednt worry, you only occasionally see bears in the Cascades, we just need to be sensible.

A long single track road wound its way some 23 odd miles down the spine of the valley. After the first 10 miles or so, the safety and reassurance of tarmac gave way to a maintained gravel track, after 20 miles the condition of the track deteriorated further and gave way to an unmaintained dirt road.

Sitting in the back of Craigs four-wheeled drive Chrysler Van with Josh riding shotgun, Martin and myself bounced along in the back feeling every gravel chip, every rut. I stared into the gloom of the forest floor with little to see except dense forest in the half-light of the rapidly diminishing evening sky.

A Bear! Look a Bear! I shouted excitedly.The Van threw itself to a sharp halt as Craig pressed on the brakes. Quickly reversing back along the track to the point where i had utterly failed to remain calm and composed. Sure enough, scurrying into the murky shadows of the forest, a Black Bear.

Half an hour later, as the long shadows were being overwhelmed by encroaching darkness, I began whistling. I was at the front of the group, walking from the Trailhead deep into the forest towards Spider Meadow. The lateness of the hour meant we would not reach the meadow before nightfall and I was determined to not have any unexpected meetings with Yogi or any of his cousins.

After an hour and a half of walking we reached the boundary of the official Wilderness area. It was nearing 11 o'clock at night. Spying a small clearing in the forest, now was as good a time as any to call an end to the day.

Craig tucks into a late dinner

We sorted out an area to sleep and sat down to a late, but very welcome dinner. I heard a rustle. What the hell was that? I thought to myself. Images of four climbers mauled bodies ran through my head. Brits killed in Bear Savagery, that would be a good headline. I then realised we were about to be mauled by at least four bears, either that or this was some horrific genetic mutation and we were in fact about to be mauled by a giant, 8-eyed Bigfoot. I turned the beam of my torch to scan the darkness. Just 10 feet away, I caught the flinch of an ear, then another. Funny looking Bear I thought. Staring straight at us, and totally bemused by our presence stood four deer. Clearly annoyed that we had set up camp in their living room. Well fed I went to sleep safe in the knowledge I was sleeping in the middle of the group and that martin would be eaten first.

 

Josh awakes from his slumber in the forest

Martin & Craig enjoy a leisurely breakfast

The following morning we headed off towards Spider Meadow. Like characters from the Borrowers or Mrs Pepperpot, we past underneath towering trees that made you feel like you were immersed in some childhood fantasy world, our statures dwarfed by the theirs.

The towering Wenatchee National Forest



The locals appear again

We eventually arrived in the high alpine valley of Spider Meadow a little before lunch. By now the dense forest was beginning to thin. All around us were the ravaged scars of winter avalanches, foot thick tree trunks snapped in half like matchsticks, torn, twisted and flung around the valley floor. We didnt pause for long, but instead continued on towards Phelps Creek, crunching through a lush, moist carpet of grasses, wild Lupins and Indian Fire-Starters.

Spider Meadow. Glacier Peak Wilderness. North Cascades.

Craig and Josh survey the avalanche damage

I scanned the cirque of summits lying in front of me. Nothing quite made sense. The slightly unusual map scale, being in miles rather than kilometers wasnt helping. Where was Dumbell Mountain? Lying at the head of Phelps Creek in the Glacier Peaks Wilderness, it was the 72nd highest mountain in Washington State. That statistic alone was utterly forgettable but that didnt mean the mountain should have disappeared. With no obvious trail from the upper reaches of the valley, we ditched any unnecessary overnight gear and went off scouting the upper valley.

Phelps Creek

The approach into the upper reaches of the valley wasnt obvious, but nor was it difficult. Climbing out of the heather clad mountain-sides we eventually reached a snowfield. Holding much more snow than the guidebook led to believe was normal for late summer. I looked at my watch, it was a little after 2pm, we'd gone this far, we may as well keep going I thought. I could now spy the higher snow-field and the obvious notch into the skyline ridge we were aiming for.

I struck off up the steepening snow-field. the ferocity of my kick-steps gradually increasing. Above lay shattered rocks. There were plenty of objective risks, aside from the obvious one stemming from a lack of crampons. I focussed on the edge of the snow-field, ocassionally glancing down to assess the slope falling away beneath me, dug my axe deep and kept kicking furious steps for the others to follow.

High above the timberline, large snow-fields linger

Craig on the summit of Dumbell Mountain

A very happy Josh on the summit of Dumbell Mountain

I stepped across onto the partial security of semi-solid rock. Above lay a narrow chimney, littered with loose rock. We stuck close together and scrambled upwards to the main ridge. Half an hour later and we stood at the summit of Dumbell. Josh could scarcely contain his excitement. It was only his second ever climbing trip. Not a bad place to cement your climbing career.

Josh, Martin & Craig descending the lower snowfield

 

Walking wounded. Rich tends to Craig after having had a lucky escape

We had descended past most of the major difficulties without incident. With a clear run-out beneath us I decided to head off down to the base of the snow-field and wait for the others to catch up. As I approached the edge of the snow-field I heard a gut wrenching scream. The sort of scream that I've heard before, I dont like it. Its a scream that says I'm alive but I've really hurt myself. I looked around and saw the small outline of Craig lurching around on the boulder field above me. Josh and Martin were standing nearby, motionless. For a few seconds i feared Craig had broken something major. I started making my way back up the snowfield. Craig was now on his feet. With the assistance of Josh a definitely bruised and possibly broken Craig was hobbling towards me.

 

He looked a little shaken and was clearly in pain. His ribs were bruised, his leg lacerated and his ankle was badly swollen. I doubted he could have broken anything, since he was walking but he was nonetheless in a real mess. Our only option was to head down and slowly. It was nightfall before we reached Spider Meadow once more. That was enough adventure for one day.

Criaig smiles through the pain with Martin

The adventures over...time to go home

 

 

Weather windows in the Valais

I'm just back from a week-long visit to the Valais region of the Alps in Switzerland. Despite being their for 8 days we ended up having just a four-day weather window after which unseasonably cold and very unsettled weather restricted us to the valley as heavy rain and (above 2000m) considerable snow-fall called an early halt to the Alpine summer.

Valley Dining. Zinal Rothorn is the obvious peak in the background.



Seeing what could be our only chance for any meaningful climbing there was little time to do the normal acclimatisation, that would be left to an entirely on-foot ascent from the valley floor straight to the first of two 4000m peaks we had identified worthwhile routes on - Zinal Rothorn at 4221m and the Ober Gabelhorn at 4063m.




The Trift glacier and the Wellenkuppe



Ober Gabelhorn on extreme left, edge of photo with Wellenkuppe on left

It was a hot and arduous approach to the Rothorn Hut, with no intrusive cable-cars or railways to lift us out of the valley, it was 1700m of climbing first through steep wooded hillsides and then glacial morraine and scree. We arrived at the Rothorn Hut in well under four hours, I was knackered.

The alarm sounded just before 4am. With breakfast consisting of Bread & Jam and a few cups of tea hastily swallowed we were off into the early morning darkness of the high Alp shortly before 5am.



Dan scans the guidebook as dawn breaks

Easy climbing under darkness

We moved up the glacier before breaking through an chimney system and traversing several snow and scree fields to bring us on the upper shoulder of the mountain. We had been going for around 2 hours, darkness had finally given way to morning and we approaching 3900m. From a narrow snowy crest the route traversed under the Rothorn's south face, weaving a narrow passage across loose, technical ground before climbing up to an obvious notch on the South-West Ridge. From here more technical and exposed ground beckoned - across the Biner Slab before a series of twists and turns on the high summit ridge, with vertigo-inducing drops on every side gave way to the summit. We had been climbing for some four and a half hours.



Rich on the summit of Zinal Rothorn (Circa 4200m)

We paused for a rest on the summit, before, keen to avoid becoming trapped amongst the numerous guided parties we began our descent. A series of rapid abseils and some steady down-climbing brought us back to the Fruhstuckplatz and the heat of the morning sun. From here we knew we could take our time, only a cool Panache back at the hut beckoned and we returned to the hut in time for lunch.

A warm descent - Monte Rosa, Breithorn etc behind

It was 3pm before I decided to fall asleep. A quick power-knap before dinner. I awoke bleary eyed shortly before 6pm. Despite this I would be fast asleep again some four hours later getting some much needed rest before our second day of climbing would begin on the Ober Gabelhorn.

Described as one of the finest and most impressive of any Alpine peaks, many people will never have heard of it. Despite its appearance, elevation and intricacy its not a peak that automatically rolls off the tongue when you think of great alpine peaks. But its a beautiful mountain. No easy way up, sheer faces of snow and ice, long, narrow and intricate ridge lines.

The hanging clouds of the previous evening has dissipated by the time we left the hut shortly after 430am. But the wind was up. Occasional gusts carried nervous tension as we trudged across the pitch black glacier.

We maintained a steady pace as Dan did his best to search out the best line as we weaved between arching crevasses. We crossed the Bergschrund as the first tentative signs of light began to appear.
Steep ground, but relatively easy climbing brought us onto the main ridge proper. From here great climbing over slabs gave way to broken and bouldery ground on the upper ridge of the Wellenkuppe.

Arriving at the col on the approach to the Wellenkuppe

Climbing onto the snowy dome of the Wellenkuppe the full scale of the Ober Gabelhorn revealed itself. Disappearing into the middle disance was a long and narrow ridge, heavily corniced before the full sweep of the north face reared sharply up to its 4063m summit. The ridge itself was relatively straightforward before a steepish 50 degree snow slope gave way to rocky technical ground and after another hour of climbing, the summit.

Looking down the NE ridge
 The dome of the Wellenkuppe behind



Dan with another tiny dot far below - another climber!

It took several hours to descend from the summit to the narrow ridge, numerous abseils on some questionable anchors brought us safely down the steep face. From here it was time for brain overload as we carefully descended further to the ridge, conscious of the sweeping North face dropping away to our left.

By the time we reached the Wellenkuppe on the return leg I was spent. 2 days of rapid acclimatisation above 4000m were taking their toll, as was a long and mentally involved descent from the summit. I needed to re-fuel before I could go any further. There was still at least another hour of descending over complicated ground before we would reach the relative safety of the glacier, still some 300m beneath us. We had been on the go for some 11 hours by the time we returned to the hut.

3 hours later, the storm clouds had gathered, we were racing down to the valley through a thunderstorm. The next few days would be little better, a monstrous drop in temperature saw the freezing level falling back to just above 2000m, with temperatures of around -15c at 4000m and several days of rain and snow. We would get one more brief foray to the high mountains before coming home, but which would be thwarted by the sheer amount of fresh snow.



After the storms. Deep snow on the Breithorn Plateau.

Gear:

I took various bits of kit with me, including some old favourite classics - Compressor Vest, Microtherm Jacket and also some newer pieces such as the Trojan Jacket and Gabbro Pants but of everything my main favourites and most used pieces for this trip were.

Super Alpine Gloves

These are dexterous, sticky and with just enough insulation for use in the high alps in Summer. They grip axes, allow you to climb rock, fiddle with karabiners. They're excellent. The only downside is that the Sheepskin Pittards Oiltac leather is not as durable as Cow or Goatskin, but their useability more than makes up for this.

Randonnee Gloves

Carried but not worn. In colder conditions these are my favourite all-round glove.

G2 Ultimate Mountain Pants

Normally overkill for lower-level Alpine use but for use in the high mountains they were spot-on. Windproof, highly water-resistant and great to climb in. Given the unpredictable weather forecast I carried a very light pair of waterproof overtrousers as a back-up in case of storms.

Concordia Jacket

I dont often carry mid-weight fleece but the High Loft Thermal Pro used in the Concordia means this is relatively light and compressible for its warmth.

Bastion Jacket

Whilst climbing I only ever carried this, as my main spare warm layer. But it was much valued for sitting outside mountain huts and lounging around camp in the cooler evenings. Light, compressible and not at all bulky.

Firelite Jacket

Lightweight and very breathable shell is rapidly making me question the need for Softshell for this type of trip. I toyed with the idea of carrying a Softshell up the mountain but everytime opted to take lightweight insulation backed up by this GORE-TEX Active jacket. Its breathable enough to wear all day, from very early in the morning until the heat of late morning, its hood just about fits over my Black Diamond Tracer helmet and it means that if the weather did deteriorate, I would be totally protected. Not currently available but the Firefox Jacket is, with the benefit of one extra pocket.

Echoes launch night

Nick was on good form at the launch of his book 'Echoes' at the Outside Cafe in Hathersage. 

After negotiating the generous complimentary refreshments the audience steadied themselves for some up-close and personal time with the author. We kicked things off with the Premiere of our film 'Echoes - Outside is Hot and Sticky', introduced by film-maker Lukasz Warzecha. With the appetiser out of the way, Nick somehow managed to hold his tongue for two more minutes while Ed Douglas delivered a razor sharp introduction before unleashing him into the limelight. 

Launching straight into his characteristic energetic style, Nick entertained the full house with exotic tales of mountain adventures punctuated by poignant readings from his book until ultimately, quite frankly, it was time for a beer at the Little John...

We all had a great evening and a big thanks goes out to all the team at Outside Cafe, Vertebrate Publishing and Boreal for putting it all together and of course special thanks to Nick's entourage (The Hippy and Ray Wood) for delivering our protagonist in fine form.   

To buy a copy of Nick's book ‘Echoes’ head-over to the Vertebrate website

Watch 'Echoes - Outside is Hot and Sticky' by Polished Project now at our vimeo channel here  

Echoes

Were just a few days away from the launch of Nick's first book 'Echoes' and to coincide with this we have teamed up with the Polished Project on their next release: 'Echoes - Outside is hot and sticky'

The film will premiere at Nick’s book launch at Outside Cafe, Hathersage on Tuesday 4^th (tickets available here) and go live on the following day at the Mountain Equipment Vimeo Channel. Check out the teaser below along with reviews from those who have had a sneak advance preview of the final cut…   

"The words and images combine to give a rare glimpse into the darkly luminous realm of a human mind on the edge between prison and freedom, between the grayness and alienation of modern society and the beauty and terror of the mountains. Nick Bullock’s choice to live an unbounded life appears in all its unmitigated, honest and surprisingly stark necessity."

Katherine Ives, Editor in Chief - Alpinist Magazine   

'What a fantastic little film. Time juggling is a not new for mountaineers but I know of no-one with anything close to the levels of passion for climbing that exude from Nick. After all, it’s not everyone who pursues steady employment until his late 30s and is then bold enough to break free and become a full time climber. Whether his climbing passion involves more adrenalin flow than supervising Britain’s gnarliest prisoners must be debateable but the fact that he is one of the most riveting writers and interesting characters on the climbing scene today is clear. Thus far I have only read excerpts from his book. This little film reminds me that I can’t wait to read the whole lot.’

Mick Fowler, Mountaineer

This beautifully shot short film about British mountaineer Nick Bullock features extracts from his new book Echoes, as well as extensive interviews delving in to Nick's life and past. Troubled, trapped, tormented, Nick left his full time job in the prison service to pursue a life in the mountains, which he hoped would set him free. But was it the chains of the prison service that were binding him, or is he trapped in a cage of his own making?

Jack Geldard, Editor UKClimbing.com

To pre-order a copy of ‘Echoes’ head-over to the Vertebrate website

More information on other Polished Project films here 

Harry's Mountain Heroes - by Alexis Girardet

Guest post from friend of the brand, director and producer Alexis Girardet about his recent work/expedition to Everest with the Walking with the Wounded Team which airs tomorrow night on ITV 1 (UK) at 9pm...

"As a young boy I always rather fancied the idea of summiting the highest peak on the planet, it seemed so epic, so full of promise and of fulfilling so many dreams. What could be more romantic, brave and challenging than that? So I kind of followed a plan, become a camper, a mountaineer, a rock climber, although if I’m honest it wasn’t really a proper plan, it was more of a vague patchy ambition. I was an avid reader of all the great explorers old and new, Chris Bonnington and Wally Herbert were two particular favourites. But then life started to get in the way, women, work and wine all started making demands and that dream to climb Everest gradually moved down the list. And then I had a family and it all went to pot – in a good way but to pot all the same.

Alexis working on Harrys Arctic Heroes

Eventually I started getting the chance to combine work and adventuring, it seemed like a natural fit, making films about amazing expeditions across the globe and get paid to do it. I have been so fortunate to get to go to some of the most amazing places on our planet, from high mountains to horrid jungles, from polar plateaus to hot, hot deserts. I’ve visited every continent and walked a very long way, I’ve knackered my knees and I have enough kit to sink the Titanic or at least to wind my wife up something rotten. It’s been an amazing range of experiences, but if I’m honest as a film crew there’s always someone to help carry stuff and so it hasn’t been as hard-core as many proper explorers and adventurers out there. After all I’m out there to tell a story, to make a film, not to suffer unduly, if at all possible. That doesn’t mean it’s been easy, but I am not going to claim to be a ninja like so many great and intrepid true adventurers.

And then it happened, I got offered the chance to climb that childhood dream, Everest, all 8848m of her unforgiving and oxygen starved slopes. I must admit there was a slight sense of trepidation, of nerves, of worry, but then the excitement kicked in and of course, hell yes.  I was to make a film following the Walking With The Wounded 2012 Everest Expedition for ITV. This film, like a previous one I had done to the North Pole, would follow a group of wounded servicemen as they attempted to become the first wounded servicemen to summit Everest. A big ask, given that between them they had been blown up, shot and nearly burnt to death on the battlefields of Iraq and Afghanistan. 5 incredible guys with shocking injuries yet a desire and belief that they can still take on the worlds biggest challenges, totally inspirational. And so we began…

The plan was to fall under the wing of the very experienced and respected Russell Brice and his team of guides and Sherpas. And so in late March 2012, we found ourselves arriving in Kathmandu for the start of the trip. Hundreds of bags, boxes and kilos of kit surrounded us as we fended off the ever so helpful locals, all vying for a few dollars to help get us to our hotel in the chaos that is Kathmandu. After a few days in the luxury of the Hyatt Kathmandu, we flew up to Lukla for the start of the 10-day acclimatisation trek to Everest base camp. A lovely stroll through small villages, past yaks and porters carrying unfeasible loads, staying in tea houses, eating dhal baht and getting higher and closer to our goal. Having been this way before on a previous expedition, it was nice to revisit places like Namche and Pheriche and feel a sense of familiarity, seeing the mountains grow higher and higher with each step.

Getting a first glimpse of Everest was both an exciting and daunting prospect, a stunning clear day revealed her in all her glory – over 8000m of very steep looking snow, ice and rock, gulp! Keep going. The soldiers decided to rename her Brenda, that way she seemed less daunting. With lots of filming to do along the way, there were many early starts to get ahead and then lots of running to catch up, although as we got higher the running and catching up got slower and slower. Passing through the Everest Memorial was a very sobering moment, sad to think of so many climbers that hadn’t made it home to their loved ones, to share their tales, very touching and one that resonated particularly with the soldiers, bringing back memoires of fallen comrades.

Finally we came in sight of Everest Base Camp, I must admit at this point I was starting to feel pretty crap, light headed and very short of breath. I just wanted to get there and rest. But a chilled bottle of coke later from Russ’s very well stocked base camp bar, soon perked me up. Normally I avoid the devils drink but at altitude it was fabulous. Petter, my Norwegian colleague and friend, seasoned mountaineer, polar guide and high altitude cameraman was like a whirling dervish, seemingly unaffected by the altitude – bastard!

We soon settled into base camp life, tea and hot towels at 7am every morning, breakfast at 8, in one of four mess tents, followed by lunch, more tea and dinner. We met up with all our filming kit, boxes and boxes that some poor yak had hauled up. For about 7 days, we rested, and prepped and filmed and generally relaxed. All lulling us into a false sense of security, all too soon we were off to climb our first peak, Lobuche, a 6000m training climb. Lobuche isn’t a hard climb, in fact it’s rather lovely, with incredible views and another chance to see Everest and get those all-important cut-aways. We climbed up and down a couple of times and spent 2 nights perched on its peak. We saw some amazing sunrise and sunsets, melted lots of snow for a continuous flow of rehydration and our bodies slowly acclimatised to a new altitude.

The Walking Wounded Team

Then back to base camp for yet more rest. We did some climbing practise on the Khumbu glacier, did a few walks around the slopes surrounding base camp, but generally took it easy. It was around this time that the first worries started to occur. There were reports that the icefall, the notorious glacier that all South siders have to negotiate, to reach the Western Cwm, was in a perilous condition this year. We saw a few avalanches and then the first tragedies. 2 Sherpas from other teams were killed in the icefall, one falling to his death from one of the many ladder crossings. Considering how hard these guys work, and how they make life so easy for us climbers, it was a real shock and one that we all really felt. It started to feel a bit ominous. Russ held an impromptu team meeting – all his guides and 26 would be climbers in attendance, he outlined the situation and said he was very worried about the conditions this year, lower than average snowfall, higher temperatures, greater avalanche risk on the ice fall and the 2 deaths so far had started causing real concerns. But for now we would carry on. GULP!

And then one night at 1am, we set off from our little tented homes at Everest Base Camp, to take our first steps up the Khumbu Ice fall and onto Everest herself. Even though filming shields you from what is happening – being so focussed on, well, focussing your shots, telling a story and making the sure the sound is right – both Petter and I felt a sense of trepidation mixed with awe and excitement – we wanted to get on with it, but we also wanted to get through the ice fall and live to tell the tale, unlike those poor souls in the Everest memorial. We all set off with energy and ambition. But the Khumbu icefall is no easy feat, one vertical kilometre above was Camp 2, but in between was a mix of sheer vertical climbs, delicate ladder crossings over seemingly bottomless crevasses, the ever present threat of avalanches, lumps of ice teetering at crazy jaunty angles towering above our fragile bodies and the cold, a constant menace. We all battled through the night, head torches flickering, crampons crunching and constantly struggling to get as much of the rarefied thin air into our bursting lungs as possible.

As the team headed up the hill, we inevitably started to spread out, further up, 2 of the wounded soldiers were nearly swept away by 2 small avalanches, only quick dashes to hide behind ice boulders saved their lives. Down below others were struggling with sheer physical hard work, the altitude and the cold. What would only have been a 2hr stroll at sea level was turning into an epic. I will freely admit that I was also struggling with a couple of the guys at the back. The 3 of us kept each other going through some very low points. And I tried to film it – why, oh why was I doing this…

Finally as dawn arrived, we reached the top of the icefall, relieved and exhausted, but the ordeal was far from over. Now the giant rips in the ice were all too visible, large gaping holes bridged with ladders, often lashed together with little more than a bit of thin rope. And then we came to the last ladder crossing, sadly named Blood and Guts; this is where one of the poor Sherpas had lost his life. As we tottered across the ladders, down below were large streaks of freeze dried brown blood, staining the ice, it was a timely reminder of just how insignificant we are to this beast of a mountain. Very sobering and poignant. It was an endless, tedious and exhausting slow, slow trek against the clock.

It seemed to go on and on and on…

Finally we arrived at Camp 2 shattered but relieved. As a group, we all pretty much disappeared into our tents to sleep and recover. We spent 7 days at Camp 2, the plan was to head up to Camp 3 and overnight there, which would have been the final part of our acclimatisation, but each day brought new reports of rock falls, or injuries higher up the Lhotse face. Russ rightly refused to let us go any higher, judging that it was only a matter of time before a serious accident would kill half of us in one hit. Who were we to argue with him and his guides? Then after 7 days of getting extremely bored at 6,500m, we headed back down the Ice fall – I can tell you never has a team moved so quickly in it’s life. Basecamp was so tempting and the icefall so treacherous and most importantly the well stocked bar was calling. Really loudly. We partied hard into the night – the bar was pretty much empty by the next morn, as were our heads.

But that new morning also brought with it the end of our planned trip to summit Everest. Russ, his Sherpas and his Guides had decided that the chances of a serious accident were just too great and they just didn’t want to be responsible for any loss of any life. They reasoned Everest was a risk that we were all prepared to take and that we were all walking a thin line, but that this year that line had already been crossed too many times and that we would all have to step over it if we were to attempt to summit and that was a step too far. Russ and his team were very emotional as they took this momentous decision, as were many of the climbers; there were many, many life long dreams and hopes dashed in that instance, but there were probably more lives saved too. And I think we all accepted the wisdom of that decision, even if it was a bitter pill to swallow. As one of the soldiers put it “Brenda ain’t goin’ nowhere, there’s always another day” and I guess that’s probably the motto for big mountains. Live to fight again. It was a tough decision but a brave one and probably the right one.

I remember reading a quote from the legendary Reinhold Messner, saying that climbing Everest is about “how much pain you can take”, I always remember thinking I don’t want to or need to know that. But having experienced a small part of that terrific mountain, I feel that he is probably right, so for all you would be summiteers, BEWARE, but most of all enjoy every minute of it, it’s unique, stunning and more than a little bit bonkers. Most of all be safe and make the right decisions."

Alexis

“Harry’s Mountain Heroes” goes out on ITV1 on Monday 27^th August 2012 at 2100hrs. More details available here and the Walking with the Wounded website