Wednesday, 30 June 2010
Dave MacLeod - The Indian Face E9 6c
Congratulations to Dave MacLeod on his repeat of The Indian Face E9 6c on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, North Wales yesterday in some what less than perfect conditions.
Checkout the full story over at Dave's blog
Thursday, 24 June 2010
An evening in the Churnet Valley
I had no plans for Wednesday evening beyond climbing, and the long sunny evening made it a perfect opportunity for my first trip south to the Churnet Valley. At 1hr and 25mins drive it is a rather long way for an evening session but what I found made the drive more than worthwhile.
I headed to Wright's Rock as it was the shortest walk and found a steep crag with flat grassy landings. The rock featured pockets, slopers, wierd tweaky pebble holds and lots of steepness and roofs.
After a giving me a quick tour the only other climbers there left and I had the crag to myself for a couple of hours. It was really good getting stuck into steep problems and good friction. It was a world away from last Sunday evening at Mother Cap, behind Millstone Edge: Groups of tourist wandering around, midges and greasy holds.
I walked back to the car at 10pm, in day light, already thinking of the tick list for my next trip.
Slacklines are now online
We've had huge success with our Slackline's across Europe over the past 2 years and we are now bringing them to the UK.
Designed and tested by Mountain Equipment Pro Partner Heinz Zak we offer 3 styles to suit all needs from the entry level Chill 15m with its wide 40m line to the longer length Pro 25m.
For more info head over to the product pages here
also checkout our German micro site here
UK stockist currently include:
Mountain Intelligence - Leeds
Needle sports - Keswick
Outside - Hathersage, Calver,
Mountain Wild - Hebden Bridge
BAC - Elland, Leeds
Monday, 21 June 2010
Mountain Equipment's Martin Dixon on UKC
Our very own Martin Dixon - Sales representative for the North of the UK and Ireland along with climbing partner Chris Hague from retailer Mountain Intelligence witnessed a major rock fall at Etive Slabs, Glen Etive last Thursday while they were on the last pitch of Spartan slab.
Luckily it was a quiet day at the crag and nobody was injured, had it been weekend it could have been a different story.
You can read Chris's full account over at UKC now here
Friday, 18 June 2010
The British Tahu Ratum Expedition
The British Tahu Ratum Expedition team is made up of 3 young British climbers Tom Ripley, Luke Hunt and Hamish Dunn (pictured above). The aim of the expedition is to make the first ascent of the NW Ridge of Tahu Ratum, in the Hispar Muztagh region of the Karakorum.Tom gives us a little more info
“This will be our first greater ranges expedition and we will attempt to climb the unclimbed NW Ridge of Tahu Ratum in alpine style. We won’t use bottled oxygen, Diamox, high altitude porters or fixed ropes. It will just be the three of us, carrying all our kit, food and fuel. After a period of acclimatisation we’ll start at the bottom and attempt climb to the top. We’ll attempt to free climb the route wherever possible, but no doubt we’ll end up using the odd aid or rest point.
Tahu Ratum (6651m) is an immaculate granite pyramid, which rises approximately 1500 m from the Khana Basi glacier. The Mountain has seen one previous ascent. In July 1977, a Japanese team made the mountain’s first ascent via SW Ridge. More recently, American Kyle Dempster attempted to aid solo the West Face in August 2008, but retreated 200 metres beneath the summit due to lack of food.”
You can follow/support the guys as they prepare at their blog and facebook and also check back here for the latest news
The Tatu Ratum Expedtion has also been awarded a Mark Clifford Mountain Grant for 2010 more info here
Vacancy - Junior Sales Representative
Thursday, 10 June 2010
Summer training part 2
A couple of weeks ago we finished off the last of our summer training for the guides course, four full days over in North Wales based out of Plas y Brenin in pretty much perfect weather. Compared with a lot of the other courses there was a lot more 'classroom' time with a number of talks and discussions of all aspects of guiding from client psychology, to making the most out of the internet for marketing.
However the main program for the week was looking at coaching methods. The first morning was spent inside discussing how people learn and looking at teaching/coaching methods, for such a vast subject we only had a short time to briefly touch on it but learnt a lot nevertheless. Putting it all into practise that afternoon we ran a mock fundamental of climbing workshop in the sun at the RAC boulders. Tuesday was a day out on the hill to look at how to teach and assess navigation. Assessment isn't common role for a guide but once qualified there is always the chance of working on ML, MIA etc mountain qualifications where you will be assessing navigational and various other mountain skills. This turned into more of a day of navigation training for me. I knew before hand that it’s a skill I’m weak at (bit of a recurring theme here!)...even though I’ve spent a lot of time in the mountains in Europe it's usually only when you get caught out in bad weather when ski touring that the map comes out, so lots of night nav and days out in crap weather for me this summer.
It was back inside for a full day on Wednesday for a very varied day of talks and many coffee breaks. We finished the day off by putting together a full program for an alpine preparation course we were going to be giving the next day. Working with Andy and James we put together a program that was based around the centre in the morning and going to a local crag in the afternoon. Our students were the new centre assistants from Plas y Brenin and it was good to be working with genuine students rather than mock students where it feels a bit strange and hard to teach people things that you know they are very experienced at already.
Neither Nic, Oli or Lawrance had any alpine experience but all three had aspirations to visit the alps soon and most importantly were really psyched to learn the necessary skills. Through the morning, using various areas of the centre, we covered how to take coils, moving on a glacier and prusiking practise. Over a coffee break we spent a good while flicking through guide books and maps whilst chatting about a typical alpine day and the differences between climbing in the UK and the Alps. After lunch we headed down the road to the small crag of The Pinnacles right in Capel Curig where we practised crevasse rescue and how to move together on classic alpine ground.






