Guerrillas in the Mist - Direct

Head over to ME Pro partner Jens Holsten's blog here to check out his account of "Guerrillas in the Mist - Direct " on Mount Stuart, Cascades. 

Trumpet Slappers - Video

Head over to the DMM site here where you can check out a great short video by 2 Rays productions of ME Pro partner Nick Bullock on Trumpet Slappers E7 6c, Scimitar Ridge, Llanberis.

also check out Nick's blog for further info 

A day out with the Epicentre

Nick Bullock enjoying himself on Ash Tree Ledge, Gimmer Crag

I always enjoy the opportunities I have to do retail staff training days out on the hill but I was particularly looking forward to yesterdays outing with the guys from the Epicentre in Ambleside. It's fair to say that they are a little keener than average. Amongst them they have Callum who is currently ticking his way through hard Lakeland classics up to E8, Lakeland Mixedmaster Steve who considers the Bob Graham Round to be light entertainment and not forgetting the not so secret weapon, Manager Woody.

Joining us for the day was ME Pro Partner Nick Bullock who'd agreed to take a day off from tottering Welsh sea cliffs on the promise of some 'Lakeland Alpinism'. The plan was a day of two halves with a switch of staff at lunchtime, it seemed best that we didn't go too far. Pulling into the Old Dungeon Ghyll pub car park Nick and I were greeted by the sight of Steve and Liam in running shorts and packing not very large rucksacks. 'Oh dear' said Nick. Being an overly safe instructor type I had a boot full of single ropes whilst Nick had a rack with which anything was possible. Steve was of the opinion that betwen four of us all we really needed was 40m of 7.8mm rope, some wires and a cam. At least the sacks would be light. The forecast was very warm with the possibility of a heavy shower or two. With this in mind we all packed one of our current Arrow Zip Tees or one of the amazing new hooded Javelin Jackets that will be coming out next summer. These are our lightest, stretchiest and most breathable softshells so perfect when you're about to have to spend a morning moving slightly too fast and alternating between running, walking and climbing.

Nick and Liam at the top of Middlefell Buttress

We set off towards Raven Crag where Middlefell Buttress was unusually deserted. This was dispatched swiftly and we continued steeply up the hillside towards Gimmer. Stopping at the foot of the ultra classic Ash Tree Slabs we started to cool quickly so put on our Arrow's and Javelin's for the more technical climbing above. At Ash Tree Ledge we paused briefly for Steve to join Liam and I on the rope before continuing up the exposed D route to the top of the crag. It was about 12pm by now and the plan was to meet Woody and the Epicentre's reinforcements back in the car park at 1pm. With this in mind we made rapid if warm progress towards Harrison's Stickle and then across to Pavey Ark where we shot down the classic easy scramble of Jack's Rake.

Nick on D Route

Steve at the top of Gimmer Crag in the Javelin Jacket, new for 2012

Nick admiring the view from the top of Jack's

By now a quick descent was needed if Nick and I were going to get the cold drink we wanted in the pub before the afternoon's activities. Despite a rapid jog down the always painful Stickle Ghyll path we were greeted by the worrying sight of Woody shirtless and clearly raring to go. I stuck my water bottle in the stream and resigned myself to having to bypass the beer garden for now. Nick was preparing himself for a serious Lakeland sandbagging so we were both relieved when Woody suggested Paladin on White Ghyll crag, a relatively amenable E3 by local standards.

Nick and Woody preparing for Paladin on White Ghyll

Steve and Liam headed back to the Epicentre whilst Woody, Callum, Liam, Nick and I started the steep walk back up the hill. The newly slimline Woody made short work of the spectacular and awkward main pitch before giving Nick and I the dieting secret to loosing 3 stone in 3 months and subsequently going from the sofa to E6 in the same period. Drop into the shop if you'd like the finer details, suffice to say that beer is apparently still allowed. We hobbled back down the scree filled gully in overtight rockshoes before packing up to run down and catch up with the others and hear about their own 3 star White Ghyll classic.

Woody heads into the steepness on Paladin

Woody emerging from White Ghyll

We weren't to be denied a drink this time and a cold beer outside the Stickle Barn rounded off a great day in Langdale in good company. Thanks to Nick and everyone at the Epicentre whether out on the hill or back at the shop holding the fort whilst we were out getting slightly sunburnt! It was great to get out and use a selection of our summer softshell in a perfect testing ground as well as showing the guys some of the highlights of next years range. It's fair to say that the re-worked Orbital Jacket already has some fans and we'll have this and other new products out on long term test with these guys soon. Drop into the shop next time you're in Ambleside for some excellent and experienced advice on ME product or simply for some tips on classic Lakes routes. Whether you're walking, scrambling or climbing E8 they'll be able to point you in the right direction!

There'll be more pictures from the day to follow on our Facebook page as well as on the Epicentre blog which also has Lakes conditions updates in summer and winter: www.theepicentre.co.uk/blog

A great end to a good day out!

Rich B.

Dave MacLeod GORE TEX Experience Tour interview

ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod gives us his thoughts on his GORE TEX Experience tour trip to Norway.



You can check out more information about the trip at the Experience tour facebook page here

Join Stephen Venables in 2013

ME Pro partner Stephen Venables... "2013 will be the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest. It will also be the 25th anniversary of our 1988 Anglo - American - Canadian Kangshung Face expedition, which Reinhold Messner described as ‘probably the most adventurous in Everest history’ (and no we didn’t pay him to say that).

I intend to celebrate our Silver Jubilee in style, starting with a trip to the Antarctic Peninsula. Skip Novak, with whom I have already led two expeditions to South Georgia, has agreed to be co-leader of the Antarctic expedition, and make his 22.5m yacht Pelagic Australis available for a four weeks charter from Ushuaia. 

Yacht-based skiing and climbing is one of life’s great adventures; doing it on the Antarctic Penisula is as good as it gets. With eight berths available on Pelagic Australis, there will be scope for both keen Skier/mountaineers and people who would just like to come for the sailing, scenery and wildlife.

The dates: February 1st to February 28th 2013 plus a couple of days each end travelling to and from Ushuaia. We are still working on the detailed plan and prices, which I will send in my next newsletter. In the meantime, please allow yourself to be tempted by this trip of a lifetime, and tell anyone else who may be interested."

For more information checkout Stephen's website here where you can signup for his newsletter

Images - South Georgia 2008 expedition - Stephen Venables Collection

Nick Bullock: Latest

Want to know what ME Pro partner Nick Bullock has been up to over in North Wales? Then head over to his blog here where you can check out his latest post.

Orange Blossom Special. E1 5b *. 30m.

 The horizontal break above Scintillating Witches on Golden Wall. photo Nick Bullock Collection

Welcome to the team - Jen's Holsten

We are pleased to announce a new addition to our Pro partner team... Jens Holsten.

Jens is a alpinist/rock climber based out of Leavenworth, Washington, USA who is fast establishing himself on the US Climbing scene with both his impressive of tick-list of climbs and writing style. 

Over this past winter Jen's has been busy putting up new routes in Patagonia such as Jardines Japoneses (650m, 5.10 A1 AI4 M5) with Mikey Schafer and Colin Haley (more info here) as well as several new lines in his backyard of the Cascades, he has also just returned from climbing trip to Yosemite.  

Below are a few shots of Jen's putting some of of AW11 Styles to the test out on Mt. Huntington, Alaska back in early June’11.

You can read more about Jen's and his recent exploits over at his blog here