Wednesday, 6 July 2011

Long Hope Route 1970

I was having a bit of a rummage through the Mountain Equipment archive today and to my surprise came across these photos of Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill on the Long Hope Route back in July 1970, the very route that ME pro partners Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner completed a few weeks back.


 Ed Drummond after the last bivouac on day 9 

Ed Drummond leading on day 5 

Oliver Hill on pitch 16 (The Crux) end of day 8 

Ed Drummond leading pitch 16 (The Crux) day 8

 Ed Drummond on pitch 16 (The Crux) day 8


Lukasz sung by the office on Monday on his way back from Hoy to give us a quick glimpse of some of the amazing shots he took of Dave and Andy on the Long Hope Route (a few of which are below).  There will be articles and more pictures to come in the climbing press shortly and were also super excited about seeing the footage that Diff and the guys at Hotaches got in the bag... keep your eyes peeled for more info soon!

Ed Drummond back at St Johns Head last week   



All photo: Lukasz Warzecha

Tuesday, 5 July 2011

Time for a catch up

Its been a hectic few weeks for the team as ever at ME towers, so I thought I'd fill you all in with some highlights of what me and the rest of the team have been up too - Contrary to popular belief and posts we don't spend all the time outdoors, though we try! 


Back in June the international Mountain Equipment sales team descended on Central Manchester for our Summer 2012 sales meeting. Germany, Japan, Norway, USA, France, Benelux, South America to name a few were all in attendance to check out whats coming for Summer 2012. I'd love to be able to show you some of the awesome gear the design team have been working on but then I'd have to kill you... as its all top secret at the minute!



  Richard T and Sam take the team through the Summer 2012 range


After 3 days of presentations, meetings and planning the team were all psyched and raring to go back to their territories to start the sell in process to their retail customers. 


We were then joined by ME pro partner Dave MacLeod who came down to Manchester for 2 days for a catch up with the team, set a few new Bouldering problems down at the Manchester Climbing Centre and then a lecture down at The Mountain Equipment Store - Deansgate, as part of our on going free lecture series (keep up to date with future dates here). As with previous Andy Turner lecture it was a sell out and yet another great evening. Thanks to Dave, Peter and the guys at the Store, ME's Andy Green and to all you guys that came along.


    
Dave taking everyone through his plans for the Long Hope Route

The following day we were then joined by two Japanese Magazines and a South Korean shopping channel film crew, who had all traveled across to the UK to shoot/write features about the ME brand and also interview members of the team as well as a few famous faces. 

      
Doug Scott takes the guys through some of the highlights of his mountaineering career at the BMC head offices 



Brian Hall talks the guys through his work

I then managed to get away from the office.... so while Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner were pushing the limits of climbing on the Long Hope Route I headed to one of the wettest, muddy'est and for 1 day hottest places on earth.... Glastonbury Music festival....



Need I say more...... 



Thankfully I was a little more selective about where I pitched my tent


GORE-TEX Pro shell and Ray bans - the choice of any professional festival goer! 

Next stop Friedrichshaften, Germany for the OutDoor 2011 Tradeshow 

to be continued......... 

GORE-TEX Active Shell on Test at the 3 Peaks Yacht Race

We sent Stu Pitches from www.facewest.co.uk one of our new Firelite GORE-TEX Active Shell Jackets to test a few months ago and he's been giving it a good workout! Below are his thoughts and experiences from the recent 3 Peaks Yacht Race where he finished second:

I have had a Firelite Jacket for a few months now but due to the amazingly dry spring we have had, I have had a lot more time to appreciate it's light weight rather than it's bad weather performance.

Luckily last week was the 3 Peaks Yacht Race where I had plenty of oppportunity to do both. The race started in Barmouth and leg one was a brief 4 hour sail to Caernarfon. From there an 18 mile run to Snowdon and back via Llanberis. In the valley the weather wasn't too bad but as we ascended it got worse and worse, by the top visibility was less than 5 metres and the rain was near horizontal. The Firelite performed well, keeping all the elements out, but one point is that Activ Shell is not very warm. Even though it blocks all the wind, the thinness of the fabric, lack of backing and generally a lack of midlayer means much heat is conducted away. If you are cold when you put on a superlight shell jacket, dont expect to warm up much. As we descended into Llanberis, I was reluctant to remove my shell and I found the membrane performance good. After reaching the road in Llanberis I was back to running in a base layer and the Firelite went back into the sack.

After another 24 hours sailing we reached Whitehaven. First a bike from Whitehaven to Ennerdale Youth Hostel which started off wet so I left the boat wearing the Firelite but it didn't turn into much, so much of the cycle was done with the front zip undone as venting, and I was pretty sweat free on arrival at Gillerthwaite. The tabbed cuffs also allow you to push the sleeves up to your elbows which gets rid of a surprising amount of heat. The run over Black Sail Pass, down to Wasdale and up to Scafell Pike (and of course back again) were done with the jacket in my bag. With 1500m of climbing on this 6 hour leg I was keen not to be carrying any excess baggage. Just knowing you have the lightest selection of kit possible gives you a bit of a mental boost and perhaps more importantly doesn't nag at you when you are feeling rough.

Another 36 hours of sailing and we were docking in Fort William for the final leg. For the first time we would be running in daylight. Unusually for scotland it was a clear, dry and still evening, so again it was the weight of the Firelite that was it's greatest asset. Shell jackets of this nature are destined to be carried more than worn. An ideal trip is where the seriousness of the situation demands proper shell clothing but that clothing never leaves your bag. A glorious run up and down the Ben saw us overhaul the team in front to take 2nd place. After 80 hours of continous racing the top 3 teams were separated by less than 3 hours.

Friday, 1 July 2011

GORE-TEX Active Shell: Field Trials

18 months ago i was sitting in another bi-annual meeting at GORE HQ in Livingston perusing the latest collection of new fabrics that were being past around, waiting for that moment when any flicker of imagination would be caught by something really new, i remained firmly in my seat, my imagination firmly sedated. This was nothing unusual, its not easy developing new fabrics and the really good ones take time. It was only as we came towards the end of another lengthy meeting that a new fabric was casually passed across - probably not our thing, more for running but you might like it was the comment. It was GORE-TEX Active Shell. Lighter and significantly more breathable, what was there not to like? And so started the development of the latest range of jackets which have hit selected stores this past week.

A murky day on the Lakeland fells back in early Spring

I'll admit to having something amounting to a large degree of healthy scepticism when it comes to new fabrics (in fact quite alot of things according to my colleagues), whatever the various statistics we get bombarded with from test houses and fabric mills, working in the real world, in the mountains is what I care about and I think our partners at Gore actually quite like our honest assessment of what is passed our way, but on this occasion it was genuine excitement. Here was a fabric, that if the rhetoric were true would provide a garment that was considerably more comfortable to wear, even for hard aerobic activities, whilst being lighter than previous GORE-TEX jackets. The only downside, it wouldnt be as durable, but that was hardly a surprise.


Active Shell in the bag - Sometimes its just too nice! Nothern Cairngorms.

And so the months past by and the final test garments were ready to go. Since then I have ran over the fells near to home in all sorts of conditions and not once, even when running hot, have i noticed anything close to condensing moisture on the inside. In short it works, in the mountains, in the rain, where it matters.

Definitely not nice. Head down for a wet day in the gloom.
Active Shell even with all its different methods of construction, I'll be totally honest is not the lightest waterproof fabric out there - but thats not really the point. It is light, dont get me wrong, but what it really is, is a genuinely breathable and totally waterproof package which if you're wanting something to actually wear whilst on the move rather than simply carry in pack is simply quite remarkable compared with previous waterproof fabrics I've used.

Enjoying a cool evening running around the Kentmere Horseshoe

So since getting my hands the development version of what was to be our Firelite Jacket, which is the simplest and lightest of all the jackets in our mini Active Shell collection, i've attempted to document a few of these outings.

Not always successfully - fell running whilst a) focussing on the ground in front b) holding onto a camera c) holiding onto an over enthusiastic sheepdog d) trying to breathe and e) battling the constant battering of gales rolling in off the Atlantic is not always easy but hopefully you'll get enough from these photos and short video clips to get the idea!


Kentmere Round from Richard Talbot on Vimeo.



Untitled from Richard Talbot on Vimeo.



Untitled from Richard Talbot on Vimeo.





Untitled from Richard Talbot on Vimeo.

Wednesday, 29 June 2011

GORE-TEX Active Shell on Outdoors Magic



Have a look at Jon at Outdoors Magic's first impressions of our new GORE-TEX Active Shell Firefox Jacket. There is a 'Talkback' thread in the gear forum where I will try to answer any questions you may have on our new Active Shell product.

http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/reviews/jackets/shell-jackets---waterproof/mountain-equipment-firefox-jacket/37307.html






Tuesday, 28 June 2011

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Monday, 27 June 2011

Gore-Tex Active Shell Arrives!


At ME we've been excited about the release of GORE-TEX Active Shell for a long time now. Finally it's here we've teamed up with Cotswold Outdoor to bring you a worldwide exclusive on our new Firefox Jacket in a limited edition colour scheme. In order to give you the best information on the new fabric our pro partners, independent reviewers and ME's staff have been putting it through it's paces in a range of settings for several months. As a result we hope to be able to give a comprehensive picture of Active Shell's benefits and performance from a variety of perspectives. Below is the first of our reviews, don't forget to check back this week for more from us and a comprehensive review from UKClimbing. In the meantime check out the Cotswold site here to see the Firefox: http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/.
First up this week is long term ME pro partner Es Tressider. Es is a man of many talents being, amongst other things, an accomplished fell runner, alpinist and ski mountaineering racer. He recently won the Jura fell race and currently holds the record for the Cullin Ridge on Skye, the perfect man for the job where new lightweight jackets are concerned!:


When selecting a shell for racing I have three criteria;


1. Does it meet the requirements of the rules?
2. Is it light?
3. Does it pack down small enough to get in and out of a small race-pack quickly?


You’ll notice that the actual performance of the jacket doesn’t feature on this list. This is because, except perhaps in Mountain Marathons, it’s very rare for me to actually race wearing a waterproof. In all but the foulest conditions or the longest races I am running so hard I generate enough heat to stay warm without one, and find that at such exertion levels I tend to get very sweaty in a waterproof.


But the rules, with good reason, require a waterproof, so it’s a waterproof I pack in my race bumbag. Occasionally it does get used. This year’s fell-racing started in earnest for me at the Slioch race in Scotland, the most northerly fell race in the UK. It was my friend Simon’s stag-do and the weather was fairly grim – driving cold rain in the valleys, and forecast snow on the tops. With my big ambition for the spring, the Jura fell race, a week away I was keen to put in a confidence-boosting performance. After a long, fast section beside Loch Maree the route began the steep climb up Slioch. As we crested the first, steepest rise and gained the main ridge the wind picked up and it started to hail. I began to feel cold in just a Cocona Crux T. This seemed the ideal time to test out the new jacket I had packed away in my bumbag but as yet not used. A bit of fumbling later and it was on, I was warming up and chasing hard, having just lost touch with the leading group. I was hopeful that a good descent could get me back with them.


At the summit I was maybe a minute behind; I switched gear and tried to let gravity do the chasing. The rain was still coming down in buckets but I was pretty happy in my own little world – hood up, chase hard, stay positive. More than any jacket I’d ever raced in before, this seemed just the right balance of protection, weight and breathability. Although it was cold, I was still surprised that I could wear it comfortably while running hard uphill and not get too sweaty.


About two thirds of the way down I caught and passed the leaders, but with an uneasy feeling about the route we’d taken. Sure enough the lead group of five of us arrived in the valley much too low down, and had a humiliating run back uphill to the final checkpoint as the new leaders ran past, smiling at their luck, in the opposite direction. The race for us was over but I carried on pushing hard to the finish, picking up a few places, telling myself that this race was more about building confidence than actually winning.
The end of May this year was exceptionally wet in western Scotland and I wore the jacket every day for the rest of a two-week holiday, including carrying it round the Jura course to my first win. The one sunny day we had I used it as a beach towel (for which it is not particularly suited!). It offers enough protection that I’d be happy using it ski touring in winter yet it’s light enough that it can also be packed in a bumbag and forgotten while racing. Surprisingly, it’s breathable enough to actually be useful while racing in bad weather.


As a super lightweight alpine back-up to a soft-shell it would be ideal. I’d hesitate to use it as a main shell for alpine or Scottish winter climbing because it doesn’t have a helmet-compatible hood and the fabric doesn’t look like it would stand up to too much thrutching up granite chimneys. However, for running or ski-alpinism races, ski touring and moderate mountaineering, anywhere where minimising weight is crucial but the weather might be gnarly, this is now my jacket of choice.



Thanks to Raphael Bleakley for the accompanying pictures.