Winter Climbing in the Lakes

Rich on the walk-in. Dove Crag on the left-hand skyline.

On Sunday I got up early and drove up to the lakes to meet with fellow ME collegue Rich. The plan was to climb some classic lines on Dove Crag but when we got there one of the routes wasn't formed and the other looked a little thin to go. So more "in" looking objectives were selected, and a good day was had by all with some of that fantastic weather we've been having thrown in for good measure. Have a look at the photos below.

Atop Hart Crag nr Fairfield at Dusk

Looking across to the Coniston Fells at sunset

Andy and Lukasz - Video Clip

Short clip from professional photographer and friend of the brand Lukasz Warzecha and his day out with Andy Turner in the Highlands, Scotland on Tuesday this week

"4hrs of snow wading to the base of the route... only to find out that it wasn't in condition... some fun on the way down and horrendous drive back to Manchester"

LWimages RAW - Day with Andy Turner... from Lukasz Warzecha - LWimages.co.uk on Vimeo.

Baggy Reports: 18 New Routes in 4 Days

Baggy reports on whats been a truely amazing 4 days for new routes over in North Wales

Baggy....

"The greatest spell for new routes in the History of North Wales... Wow! 18 New routes in 4 days
This has to be a record for North Wales surely? So many new routes in such a short period of time. The buzz is fantastic here in North Wales and conditions keep building its never ending. Between Friday 3rd and Monday 6th December all these routes have been climbed.

Baggy on George IV-4

Gaz Davies and myself climbed 3 new routes. These routes were all turfy based and relatively short at 2 pitches each. The one route in particular, The Capstone Heel Hook V-7 * 90m V-7 gave a very interesting crux with little gear, as the cams and hex’s we required were in the van! The other two routes were George IV-4 * 105m and Turf Stomp IV-4 60M

Jon Ratcliffe opened his winter account on alongside Tim Badcock. They climbed a new mixed 2-pitch line V, 5 on good turf, hooks and torques. According to Jon this is at another crag X.

Gaz Davies, Dave Simpson and Paul James climbed The Whiskey Made Me Late V-6. Also Tom Morris and Will McCormack climbed Don't Forget Your Sole III. Another team Dave Almond, Neil Griffiths and Adam Crook went up Third Trinity Groove at VII-7. All these routes were done in Cwm Lloer.

Rich Cross and Dave Hollinger came over form Sheffield They managed to squeeze another new route in on the ladders The Great Escape VI-7

Geoff Bennett takes up his part of the action

Yes he's at it again Chris Parkin, Mike Pycroft & myself headed for the Ladders for some new route action towards Ice Fall Gully area. Between Sarajevo & Ice Fall Gully (Left Hand) are a number of enticing grooves. 2nd groove (a deep one) right of Sarajevo (where Chris' in situ belay sling from 1990s was still hanging!) is now Forlorn Hope 55m VI 5 a somewhat lonely & scary lead for my first this year! Next groove to the right is now Mostar V 5 50m, Chris's lead. A more amenable & perhaps enjoyable route worthy of a star!

Rich stone shows no sign of letting up; maybe he is in competition with Chris Parkin? He bagged another five new lines, a V-7, a V-5, Philistine V 7, The Sling V 5, and the Stone
V- 6,

In Cwm Idwal a new second pitch for Chicane was added V 5 by Misha and Tom Jumar

Chris Guest and partner added a route to Cyrn Las and Gaz Davies claimed yet another new route on Y Garn.

Where will this all end. Just think if the winter lasts till the end of MARCH as last season. How many new routes? We need a new guide surely."

Keep up to date with all the latest over at Baggys blog here

Baggy Reports - How can I sleep at night

Latest report from Baggy to get you psyched for this weekend

"How can I sleep at night? its a Frenzy out there....
I did say there would be more to come and its now on a daily basis. There are certainly plenty of psyched climbers out there.

VariErrant VI-7

Lee Roberts reports in

“ Stu and I blasted to Glyder Fach (aka Baggy's Crag) and did that route you had in mind, you snooze you loose! We thought it was brill, 3 stars in my book. 3 contrasting pitches all with pretty decent gear but quite tricky climbing. All pitches pumpy.

VariErrant VI 7

It starts left of Arch Gully and is based on the summer Errant Route. The last pitch (variation to the summer route) follows the obvious right-hand turfy corner as far a possible and then a delicate traverse left on tiny edges to a right facing groove. Mega. Called it VariErrant as in Variant. I thought about VI 7 but I'm probably miles out cos its my first route this season.

Baggy you’re getting everyone well psyched! Wow! What conditions and our new route is fantastic! I was dispatched off the middle crack pitch, which Lee promptly put to rights! Keep cranking Stu Stanley

Guns of Navarone VII 7

Not ones for missing out ? as if ? Tim Neil and Chris Parkin have been busy yet again. Tim reports

Guns of Navarone VII 7

“Guns of Navarone VII 7, This exciting much eyed line linking with Polar Bear has been on our list for some years. Thursday, we decided to give it a go. It gave 2 hard pitches with us both taking a pitch each. It proved tricky but thankfully not as hard as we first thought, should have got on it years ago.

Arch Gully Variant V-6

“ Wednesday a trip to Glyder Fach proved a good choice. With the crag well rimed we took the obvious slot left of Arch Chimney and just right of Out to Lunch (spiral variant). This joined Arch Gully at some bongo flakes before a thrutchy slot. Makes the route a similar standard to the top pitch but all the way up. Chris and I thought this was a 3 star winter outing.” Simon Panton view “Arch Gully saw its first winter ascent in 2008 by Mark ‘Baggy’ Richards, Owen Samuels and Rocio Seimens. It is an excellent route with a stunning top pitch” (V12 editor’s top tip: send your tall mate up this pitch as the last move is a big stretch.) More details visit V12 News.


Oblique Gully V-6

Kath Bromfield, Paul James and Gaz Davies made the most of the current rime found on many of the crags to claim the first winter ascent of on Oblique Gully on Glyder Fach. This goes at V -6 and 2 stars and has been eyed up by Baggy over recent years but has never rimed up.

I said in my last post there would be more come, I never thought this much and it is not even the weekend. With the forecast looking great then stay tuned baggy"

Keep up date with all the latest at Baggy's Blog here

Winter sun in the Lakes

Cat and I got out last Sunday for our first experience of Lakes winter climbing and were treated to a beautiful crisp alpine day on Helvellyn (is it like this all the time??). After a slightly later than planned start we drove over from Yorkshire and eventually wandered into Red Tarn a bit after midday. With teams everywhere we decided just to head up the central gully to the very busy summit and take in the amazing snow covered panorama of the Lake District.

Quite content just savouring the views out of the wind in the sun we eventually decided after a few cups of tea that we should probably head back down and do something else. After a few false starts trying to find a route with no one on it we eventually end up on Blade Runner which gave a great pitch up a turf filled grove before finishing the day off coming down Striding edge in just stunning evening sun.

The snow started again just as we got to the top of Kirkstone pass and after an ‘interesting’ drive down to Windermere and a failed attempt to get back across the A65 I made it into work only a little late on Monday morning. Needless to say the snow tyres are now on the car rather than sat useless at the back of workshop! Big thanks to Ewen and Clare for putting us up at the last minute in Kendal.

The Pinnacle - Trailer

more info at www.hotaches.com

Baggy Reports - New Route Fever Grabs North Wales

"Wales is Ace" is how Baggy summed up current conditions in his email to us last night, check out his latest report below...

"With current good conditions and the ever-growing psyche and enthusiasm of climbers in Wales, new routes are beginning to fall like confetti. Over the last few days the following new lines have been climbed.

Baggy and Gaz Davies climbed George 180m V-5 on Cwm Glas Bach. This being a very turfy route with a variety of styles required. It was fairly serious in places as the first pitch (30m) at III-IV had no runners and the 2nd pitch IV-V (60m) a few runners.

Chris Parkin enjoying the conditions on the Black Ladders

Chris Parkin and Tim Neil were back at the Black ladders on Tuesday, this time climbing a new line right of Arctic Fox. A very good, but bold first pitch, easier ground on 2nd pitch, an airy line on the 3rd pitch followed by 100m of easier climbing. VI-6 Another fine addition to the cliff , their second new route on the crag within the last 3 days.

Rich Stone added yet another climb to his ever growing list of new routes. He soloed a route on the far left hand side of the Ladders. Le Petite Verdun. IV 4/5 210m.A pleasant little number and high up so a good early season climb. Well protected mixed climbing of a reasonable standard on the upper arete.

Mike Frodsham and Ryan Wilson climbed a new line in the area between Ghost Arete & Pinnacle Edge on the edge of the Nameless Cwm. This line follows an exciting arête giving an airy feel. IV-4

With good conditions forecasted for at least another week, then it is only time before new routes will fall."

You can keep up to date with all the latest over at Baggy's blog here