Winter sun in the Lakes

Cat and I got out last Sunday for our first experience of Lakes winter climbing and were treated to a beautiful crisp alpine day on Helvellyn (is it like this all the time??). After a slightly later than planned start we drove over from Yorkshire and eventually wandered into Red Tarn a bit after midday. With teams everywhere we decided just to head up the central gully to the very busy summit and take in the amazing snow covered panorama of the Lake District.

Quite content just savouring the views out of the wind in the sun we eventually decided after a few cups of tea that we should probably head back down and do something else. After a few false starts trying to find a route with no one on it we eventually end up on Blade Runner which gave a great pitch up a turf filled grove before finishing the day off coming down Striding edge in just stunning evening sun.

The snow started again just as we got to the top of Kirkstone pass and after an ‘interesting’ drive down to Windermere and a failed attempt to get back across the A65 I made it into work only a little late on Monday morning. Needless to say the snow tyres are now on the car rather than sat useless at the back of workshop! Big thanks to Ewen and Clare for putting us up at the last minute in Kendal.

The Pinnacle - Trailer

more info at www.hotaches.com

Baggy Reports - New Route Fever Grabs North Wales

"Wales is Ace" is how Baggy summed up current conditions in his email to us last night, check out his latest report below...

"With current good conditions and the ever-growing psyche and enthusiasm of climbers in Wales, new routes are beginning to fall like confetti. Over the last few days the following new lines have been climbed.

Baggy and Gaz Davies climbed George 180m V-5 on Cwm Glas Bach. This being a very turfy route with a variety of styles required. It was fairly serious in places as the first pitch (30m) at III-IV had no runners and the 2nd pitch IV-V (60m) a few runners.

Chris Parkin enjoying the conditions on the Black Ladders

Chris Parkin and Tim Neil were back at the Black ladders on Tuesday, this time climbing a new line right of Arctic Fox. A very good, but bold first pitch, easier ground on 2nd pitch, an airy line on the 3rd pitch followed by 100m of easier climbing. VI-6 Another fine addition to the cliff , their second new route on the crag within the last 3 days.

Rich Stone added yet another climb to his ever growing list of new routes. He soloed a route on the far left hand side of the Ladders. Le Petite Verdun. IV 4/5 210m.A pleasant little number and high up so a good early season climb. Well protected mixed climbing of a reasonable standard on the upper arete.

Mike Frodsham and Ryan Wilson climbed a new line in the area between Ghost Arete & Pinnacle Edge on the edge of the Nameless Cwm. This line follows an exciting arête giving an airy feel. IV-4

With good conditions forecasted for at least another week, then it is only time before new routes will fall."

You can keep up to date with all the latest over at Baggy's blog here

Manimahesh Kailash - Paragliding Expedition

I've just had an email in from John Silvester aka The Birdman of Karakorum. John headed out to the Himalaya early last month on his latest Paragliding expedition and made a new circumnavigation of Manimahesh Kailash.

Fitzroy Mitt being put to the test with Manimahesh Kailash in the distance

John sporting his new Citadel Jacket

John and fellow paraglider testing new equipment at lower altitudes

There more info/pics over at John's Blog here

North Wales winter kicks off with a bang

With good winter conditions building quickly in North Wales and Scotland snowed out, this weekend was the perfect time to kick off the Welsh winter season.

On Sunday, Chris Parkin, Mark 'Baggy' Richards (of blog fame) and Tim Neil, both of whom are supported my Mountain Equipment visited the Mecca of Welsh winter climbing, the Black Ladders. Here they climbed a new route
The Gerlan Heights VI-5.

Chris on the first pitch Gerlan Heights

Baggy tells us the story...

“Starting just to the left of Scimitar Hill, Chris amazed Tim and I with his coolness has he battled with thin turf and little gear on start of the first pitch. A fall from half height would have seen Chris deck out!! However Chris dispatched this with ease to add another fine pitch. Following this were two more amenable pitches at IV and III

Chris is a local legend and has claimed 15 new routes on the Black Ladders, many climbed in the mid 90’s with grades up to VII-7, some still unrepeated. The crag has over 40 routes, many up to 350ms and is a Welsh Jewel. Many of the routes are turf based routes which often give a serious feel due to lack of gear, especially early in the season before never has built.

Dave Garry and his partner Neil bagged the first winter ascent of Devils Dive a summer VS 4b, very green, wet and grassy route found on the right hand side of the Devils Kitchen. This came in at VI-6

I am sure this is just the start of the new routes in Wales this winter, so watch this space."

you can keep up to date with all the latest from North Wales over the winter at Baggy's Blog here

Winter Weekend

Winter is officially in this weekend..... so here's a little 6 minute clip taken from "Committed II" featuring Dave MacLeod on The Hurting (XI,11) Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms, Scotland - to wet your winter appetites



The Committed II DVD is available at Hot Aches here

Doug Scott Lecture

Mountain Equipment are proud to support "The Rucksack Club Winter lecture series"

Click on the image for further information

Wednesday 15th December'10 sees Mountaineering legend Doug Scott take to the stage at the Heaton Sports Club, Greater Manchester.

Tickets cost £3.00 for members and £8.00 for none members on the door.