Andy Parkin in Alpinist 28

Checkout Ed Douglas's feature on Andy Parkin - 'A Muscular Imagination: Andy Parkin and the Art of Climbing' in Alpinist 28.

For more information head too

http://www.alpinist.com/

http://www.andyparkin.com/

Hello

Jude Laws latest love conquest - Fergies most explosive interview yet - Tarka and Katie??????

not the usual place you'd expect our pro partners Tarka L'Herpiniere and Katie Jane Cooper to appear but if you happen to read Hello magazine this week checkout the feature on their recent Patagonian epic - Rivers of Ice expedition.

for more info check out http://www.rivers-of-ice.com/

Welsh Mountain Training: End of Day Four

Well our first week at the Bryn Engan Farmhouse, Plas Y Brenin has drawn to a close, the second of this weeks Mountain Training in North Wales over and all of those who attended Course Two now rushing back home to start work in shops up and down country the country again!

Our base: the recently opened Bryn Engan Farmhouse - Plas Y Brenin

Once again the weather has just about played ball. Just a little bit of dampness and hill-fog, insanely mild (has someone forgotten its nearly November?) and generally light-ish winds. In fact we were lucky, each time missing the worst the weather had to throw at us by about 12 hours (i.e. when we were safely tucked up in bed!).

On Thursday we were treated to a great day of weather (after an initially slightly murky start) and the clouds lifted to give us a great day out on the North Ridge of Tryfan and, for some of the speedier folks with us, Bristly Ridge and the Glyders also, a great combination which no matter how many times I've done it, still never fails to inspire.

Searching out some of the more adventurous lines on Tryfan's North Ridge

Clear skies on Glyder Fawr, Snowdon the obvious peak behind

On Friday, Rich Bailey and myself headed over to Tremadog with 2 members of staff from The Outdoor Shop, near Milton Keynes for a Rock Improvers Day - Sally and Dan getting to grips with leading on multi pitch rock climbs along with a few emergency techniques. Meanwhile Drew, Mike and Tom (all from Nevisport) along with Nick from Taunton Leisure were treated to a day in the expert company of Mike Raine from Plas Y Brenin and spent all day learning self-rescue and emergency rope-work. And not wanting to desert terra firma entirely another group went and got purposefully lost in the foothills above Capel Curig to brush up on some micro navigation.

Heading down. On Y Gribin ridge looking north.

So all in all a pretty varied couple of days and a fantastic week. 18 retail staff from across the country have learnt a little bit more about what makes ME and its products tick as well as hopefully going home not only safer and more complete mountaineers, mountain walkers and scramblers but also that little bit more skilled at giving you the best possible advice.

And so now as I sit at home, looking quizically at the raft of Atlantic depressions lining up to attack the British Isles, i can look forward to next weeks intake. We'll keep you posted.

A dream of dry rock

So the forecast looked dry and with lingering dampness in the mountains of Snowdonia, there was really only one place to go, Gogarth.

Traversing across the cliff tops at Gogarth

Soaring sea cliffs, superb climbing and the option to climb when the mountains are shrouded in rain and drizzle, Gogarth is an absolute must visit destination. Once you've been once, you'll be hooked. Its big, its great, and occasionally just a little scary.

And with Martin having never climbed at Gogarth before, and a burning desire to climb the uber classic line, A Dream of White Horses, we were off to Wen Zawn.

Abseiling into Wen Zawn - nerve wracking for the first time!

During our hurried planning and morning burst of enthusiasm we had obviously forgot that it had A) been raining heavily all night and B) was the end of October. How on earth did we honestly expect bone dry rock? But we had so were a little disappointed as we arrived on our perched ledge, some 40 metres down our abseil line, to find large swathes of the slab seeping with water. It then dawned on us that conditions were not going to be ideal but only when Rich Bailey started climbing did we realise just how un-ideal the conditions were, the rock was extremely damp in places and exceptionally greasy, transforming what should have been a straightforward HVS into something that felt all a little bit harder.

Rich Bailey negotiates his way over greasy and wet rock

After building the belay to secure all, Rich fired off up the first pitch, opting to head partially up the line of Wen, in order to re-join 'Dream' higher up. The steep crack line was seriously greasy, Rich was taking his time. After setting up the hanging belay Martin followed, the belay was sobering with 3 of us hanging in space some 50 metres above the waves which were crashing beneath us sending a soapy froth of bubbles into the air and onto us. For Martin this was a serious introduction to Gogarth's sea cliffs!

Pitch Two was little better, the line of flakes which normally is a pleasant handrail 'saunter' in dry conditions felt much trickier, as hands and fingers gradually unwound from the greasy rounded flakes, and with little option to smear feet on the face in front, some rather energetic toe hooks were employed to full effect.

But before we knew it were ready for the last pitch, a final 'gripping' traverse line which swings under the roofs and across the chasm of Wen Zawn, a truly inspiring pitch and one which would require Martin to climb as steadily as the leader, any fall resulting in a small swing into free space!

Martin on the final traverse pitch as Rich watches from the belay

Again a little dampness and soapy air as you pulled around the rib, made the moves that little bit more exciting, but as I pulled through into the mild Autumn sunshine, I knew the route was complete. All that was left was to bring Rich Bailey and one very delighted Martin up. His first Gogarth climb completed, a very classic one at that, and in far from ideal conditions!

Coming to a city near you - The GORE-TEX® Experiential Rig Roadshow

The GORE-TEX® products Experiential Rig is touring the country for the next four weeks allowing you guys to experience the benefits of its technologies and learn about the incredible range of activities and brands that rely on GORE-TEX® products.

For over 50 years W.L. Gore & Associates has been delivering solutions that make people’s lives easier, safer and more comfortable. The company’s best-known brand – GORE-TEX® - established the market for functional fabrics and has remained a market leader throughout that time.

The GORE-TEX® products Experiential Rig enables you to gain a better understaning of Gore product range and their applications. From running to motorcycling to hill walking, mountaineering and snowsports there are garments, footwear and accessories to suit every level of participation.

As well as showcasing some of the very best Mountain Equipment/GORE-TEX product such as the Changabang Jacket and Pinnacle Glove, the Experiential Rig also offers an interactive exhibition made up of various sensory experiences that demonstrate the physical benefits offered by GORE-TEX® membranes these include - the "Climate Cube" where you can choose from a range of activities, each of which take you – and your feet – through a variety of the most extreme weather conditions you are likely to experience also Get ‘hands on’ with the "Glove tester" on the Rig that brings the benefits of Gore’s glove technology to life.

Additional information is available about the products, technologies and the Experiential Rig Roadshow itself through a dedicated microsite.

Visit www.gore-tex.co.uk and click on the link.

Locations for the GORE-TEX® Products Experiential Rig Roadshow are:

27/10 – 01/11 The Trafford Centre, Manchester
05/11 – 08/11 Silverburn, Glasgow
10/11 – 15/11 Meadow Hall, Sheffield
17/11 – 22/11 Westfield, London

Welsh Mountain Training: End of Day Two

Well we've just finished the first of our two-day mountain skills training events here in Snowdonia. Its been a real mixed bag of training and luckily the weather so far has been interesting enough without being horrendous - the perfect environment to learn about some of our products and spend time talking to the people who help develop and test it.

Yesterdays biggest logistical challenge was how to get a group of 12 to Pen Y Pass, more specifically how to park 3 cars, but a few shuttle runs later and some inspirational lift thumbing from Rich B and we were back as one group heading upwards towards Crib Goch.

A damp start to Day One at Pen Y Pass

With a real mix of abilities and retail staff from all around the country, including Cave & Crag in Settle and Go Outdoors in Newport and Oxford and Kudos in Cardiff, the classic Welsh ridge was going to be a fantastic introduction to Wales. For some it would turn out to be a baptism of Fire, especially for one girl who until now had never been even been on a mountain in her life, let alone to Snowdonia. For her it was a stirling effort and a real show of courage and commitment to get across the knife edge ridge of Crib Goch particularly given the greasy and slippy nature of the rock.

L-R Kelly, Dave, Adam, Rich B and Lewis

And thats whats the essence of these courses, giving everyone, no matter what their previous experience a real mountain day. Some speedier members of the group managed to continue over Crib Y Ddyssgyl and experience the new cafe on the summit of Snowdon. I am told on a busy half term day, it looks little better than the previous shelter!

Descending from the Pinnacles of Crib Goch - Glaslyn behind

Today we've been in much smaller groups, one group heading off to experience an introduction to roped scrambling, having a great day out on Pulpit route and the Continuation Crack before heading over Tryfan, another group has had an introduction to climbing and abseiling on Tryfan Bach and another group has spent the day learning rope skills and having an introduction to climbing both indoors and outdoors.

Learning to climb in Snowdonia

American Alpine Club International Meet- Indian Creek

Ruth Taylor and myself have just returned from an amazing 3 week trip to the States. We started off on a 10 day trip to Indian creek and Cottonwood Canyon organised by the AAC and Brittany Griffith then tagged our own trip on the end.

We landed in Salt Lake City late one evening, met up with 22 other international climbers from all over the world, from Japan to Latvia. The next morning we were shoehorned into a pair of minivans and whisked away straight to Indian Creek. That evening was spent setting up the camp, checking out the amazing desert scenery and getting psyched for some crack climbing pain!

5 days later after much skin, tape, chalk and dignity had been lost we had dragged ourselves to the top of a rack of amazing splitter crack lines. New jamming skills acquired we headed back to Salt Lake for showers and the AAC organised Craggin' Classic being held in Cottonwood Canyon. This was like one of our climbing festivals similar to the one held in the Gower in August. Basically some climbing, some partying (as much as is possible with Utah regulated 3.2% Beer - thankfully free!) slideshows by speakers including Steve House and Andy Burr. The weekend and the International Meet finished off with some films in a small independent cinema in Salt Lake and much swopping of details between the host climbers and internationals.

We spent the next 10 days driving a huge truck on a whistlestop tour of Red Rocks, Las Vegas, Moab and Maple Canyon before we headed back home with tired arms and another dose of jetlag to welcome us back to work.