A dream of dry rock

So the forecast looked dry and with lingering dampness in the mountains of Snowdonia, there was really only one place to go, Gogarth.

Traversing across the cliff tops at Gogarth

Soaring sea cliffs, superb climbing and the option to climb when the mountains are shrouded in rain and drizzle, Gogarth is an absolute must visit destination. Once you've been once, you'll be hooked. Its big, its great, and occasionally just a little scary.

And with Martin having never climbed at Gogarth before, and a burning desire to climb the uber classic line, A Dream of White Horses, we were off to Wen Zawn.

Abseiling into Wen Zawn - nerve wracking for the first time!

During our hurried planning and morning burst of enthusiasm we had obviously forgot that it had A) been raining heavily all night and B) was the end of October. How on earth did we honestly expect bone dry rock? But we had so were a little disappointed as we arrived on our perched ledge, some 40 metres down our abseil line, to find large swathes of the slab seeping with water. It then dawned on us that conditions were not going to be ideal but only when Rich Bailey started climbing did we realise just how un-ideal the conditions were, the rock was extremely damp in places and exceptionally greasy, transforming what should have been a straightforward HVS into something that felt all a little bit harder.

Rich Bailey negotiates his way over greasy and wet rock

After building the belay to secure all, Rich fired off up the first pitch, opting to head partially up the line of Wen, in order to re-join 'Dream' higher up. The steep crack line was seriously greasy, Rich was taking his time. After setting up the hanging belay Martin followed, the belay was sobering with 3 of us hanging in space some 50 metres above the waves which were crashing beneath us sending a soapy froth of bubbles into the air and onto us. For Martin this was a serious introduction to Gogarth's sea cliffs!

Pitch Two was little better, the line of flakes which normally is a pleasant handrail 'saunter' in dry conditions felt much trickier, as hands and fingers gradually unwound from the greasy rounded flakes, and with little option to smear feet on the face in front, some rather energetic toe hooks were employed to full effect.

But before we knew it were ready for the last pitch, a final 'gripping' traverse line which swings under the roofs and across the chasm of Wen Zawn, a truly inspiring pitch and one which would require Martin to climb as steadily as the leader, any fall resulting in a small swing into free space!

Martin on the final traverse pitch as Rich watches from the belay

Again a little dampness and soapy air as you pulled around the rib, made the moves that little bit more exciting, but as I pulled through into the mild Autumn sunshine, I knew the route was complete. All that was left was to bring Rich Bailey and one very delighted Martin up. His first Gogarth climb completed, a very classic one at that, and in far from ideal conditions!