Friday, 5 April 2013

Spring Ski Touring in the Alps - Best in Recent Years?

"The Whitedot team in Chamonix have been ski touring from the start of the season, from Les Houches forests trails prior to lifts opening in November to peak bagging on the Aiguilles Rouge in the New Year. It has been a great winter for all snow activities not only across the Alps but across Europe, including UK.


It would be an understatement to say that a deep winter feel has lingered and although not exactly welcomed by all, it has set up a potentially rewarding spring touring season. In Chamonix it felt like there was a switch being flicked over the Easter weekend with the clock        s being pulled back coinciding with the lifting of a 3 day storm.

On Easter Sunday the clouds broke from what felt like an eternal blizzard to reveal a snow drenched panorama. We managed to get on the hill quickly get some fresh tracks before planning out the next couple of days ski touring....the forecast was for a settled 72 hours!


The next morning armed with skins and CarbonLite Rangers (our free-touring skis), we headed up to the Col des Crochues. Although it was a high avalanche risk day it was easy enough to read the snow pack.

The previous afternoon’s sun along with a freezing cold night had left a substantial crust layer which had compounded with the loaded couloirs to produce some impressive avalanches on the Western aspects.

On the eastern aspects the snow was conserved in an immaculate fresh condition, and it was these aspects where we headed and found some rolling pitches on which to charge down. The Berard valley is a well trodden Chamonix ski tour play area but with an early start and with a short extra 'boot pack' we found ourselves carving out first tracks down the valley - a rare and gratifying experience.....albeit with a pack of Scandinavian ski tourers hot on our tails!


The next day, Tuesday 2nd Apr, we had planned to head up high and tour from the Aiguille du Midi to Pointe Helbronner. Although a simple tour it would allow us to have a good look at the condition of the snow bridges, rimayes and crevasses across the Vallee Blanche sector without any significant commitment. A reconnaissance for routes to be cracked over the next month or two!

We headed out from the Aiguille du Midi ice tunnel into a blue sunny sky, and from the moment crampons hit snow the feeling of wellness was overpowering as the views and atmosphere (there were surprisingly few guided groups around) engulfed us.


Once we started to cross the glacier and later headed up to the Italian 'Pointe Helbronner' we passed numerous fellow ski tourers and alpinists. It was great to see a real mix of mountain enthusiasts assessing their objectives. Some were poised to cross a rimaye (Mt Blanc du Tacul and Tour Ronde etc), others on rock having discarded skis at the bottom of their route, or like us - fixing skins to skis and heading into the corners of the glacier to find fresh tracks.

Our descent even surpassed the previous day and once we had negotiated the ‘Salle a Manger’ via the Southern exit and the Vallee Noire, we lunched with the black crows and finally returned to the hussle of Chamonix town center.

The spring season has only just started and both the Aiguille Rouge and the Mt Blanc range of glaciers are all in great condition. I was really struck by the strong state of the snow bridges and snow covering across the glaciers. With lift access in Chamonix running into mid-May, the ski-touring season will be long and rewarding this year.....maybe the best in many years!"

Mark and the Whitedot Team

View more photos here

Thursday, 3 January 2013

Nick Bullock Lectures:Echoes & Beyond, Escaping the system, aka, I hope its warm in Scotland.


Over to Nick "Here is the final, although there might be one that creeps in at the Beacon Climbing Wall, list of lectures for January.

                                                                          

The talk, at most of these dates, will cover a a bit about writing Echoes and a story from it, which will be about attempting Savoia Kangri in Pakistan. Some pics to music from the book, then moving up to date with the trip to Canada last March with Rob Chopper Greenwood, Ray Wood and Ray Saunders film about climbing some crumbly rock horror on The Lleyn and some film and pics about climbing The Slovak Direct in Alaska. The grand finale will be some more pics to bumping music.                                                                                              

Please be aware, unless you come to the Outdoor Show talks which I’ve made suitable for children, there will be strong language and hopefully much banter and even maybe a tad of mayhem. Please don’t come along expecting factual, sensible and suitable for you’re gran, I don’t do suitable for you’re gran!                                                                                   

The other different talk is of course the BMC Expedition Symposium which WILL be factual and reasonably sensible and will have film and music. This talk will cover The Sharks Fin, Savoia Kangri, Annapurna III and The Slovak Direct.                                                                   

Oh, and the New Hampshire talk is different again, hardcore climbing, hardcore music, much mayhem, but its in America so unless you’re out there already I wouldn’t bother as the expense will be high : ) "                                                                                                           

Nick
January 8th: Shrewsbury for www.highsports.co.uk, High Sports, 51/52 Wyle Cop, Shrewsbury, SY1 1XJ

January 9th: Lutterworth College for The Bowline Climbing Club, Leicestershire. http://www.bowlineclimbingclub.co.uk/

January 10th: Harrogate Climbing Centre http://www.harrogateclimbingcentre.com/

January 12th: BMC Expedition Symposium Plas y Brenan. North Wales. http://www.thebmc.co.uk/

January 17th to 20th: London Outdoor Show for DMM. http://dmmclimbing.com/

January 24th: Solihull Mountaineering Club. Old Edwardians Rugby Club, Streetsbrook Road, Solihull, B90 3PE http://www.solihullmc.org.uk/index.html

January 29th: Manchester climbing Centre http://www.manchesterclimbingcentre.com/

February 1st – 3rd: Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival, New Hampshire, USA. http://www.mwv-icefest.com/

photo: Andy Houseman

Thursday, 13 December 2012

GET: Fourteen Peaks Challenge


We've teamed up with our friends at WL GORE to offer one lucky Mountain Equipment Fan the chance to join the 2013 GORE-TEX Experience Tour: 14 Peaks Challenge in North Wales: 18th – 22nd March 2013.


Our winner will be heading to Wales to join the G.E.T Team and attempt to climb all of Snowdonia National Park’s 3,000ft+ peaks in five days. The challenge will also include taking in some of Snowdonia’s classic ridges walks, including the Snowdon Horseshoe and the chance try out New Mountain Equipment products in Next Generation GORE-TEX Pro fabric months before anyone else.
  
On the first day you will practice and revise the skills needed to tackle the bigger peaks. The following four days will be spent on the hills, visiting some of the most stunning locations in the National Park. The four hill days are likely to be split as follows:

·       Snowdon Horseshoe, 3 peaks plus other smaller summits (this includes an exposed grade 1 scramble)
·       Walking the Carneddau Ridge, covering 6 peaks in one big day out!
·       Scramble on Tryfan, 1 peak – nearly a rest day …
·       Traverse of the Glyders to include the remaining 4 Peaks


The Team


The team will be led by the experienced guides of the National Mountain Centre - Plas y Brenin. As well as knowing the mountains, they are experts in the local flora and fauna so will be able to give our winner an incredible first hand insight into the area.

How do I enter?

Head to GET Website Click the apply button, fill out your details to register. You will then be taken to the application page select ‘Mountain Equipment Channels’ from the 'where did you hear about this' drop down menu, tell us more about yourself and then submit you’re application, Simple.
Closing date for applications is the 18th January 2013. The Mountain Equipment team will then review all applications and select one lucky winner to join the G.E.T Team.
Requirements
·       You must live in Europe
·       You will be minimum 18 years of age
·       You must be physically and mentally fit
·       Have English language skills (the Experience Tour project will be held in English

For further information please refer to the G.E.T Website

Heres a taster from our 2011 G.E.T project: Big Wall Climbing with Dave MacLeod in Norway - http://youtu.be/x4aeP5c5Cg4




A Quick Trip to the Cairngorms

The plan had been simple, head to the Cairngorms early so that we could climb on Sunday and do some work on Monday.  Sat at home in Kendal I scoured the various forecasts and conditions reports to be met by the promise of some even more unpleasant weather than normal in Scotland and the end of a brief thaw, it didn’t sound appealing.  Instead we decided to take a risk on the most optimistic forecast I could find for the Lakes which suggested that it might cool down just enough to make a winter route viable.

Andy looking pleased to be out in the Cairngorms
As we left the car at the Old Dungeon Ghyll in Langdale the thermometer read 6◦C but if anything it felt even warmer than that.  We set off more for the exercise than anything and by the time we were most of the way up the Band I was starting to feel a bit over equipped for Lakeland hill walking.  We made the only logical decision and headed to Bilbo’s for coffee and a bacon sandwich.


Gearing up belopw the Mess of Pottage, a very white Fiacaill Buttress beyond
By mid-afternoon we were driving north looking forward to a busy work day on Monday but slightly dejected about the lack of climbing.  Fortunately the morning brought a return to proper winter weather and we headed into the Northern Corries to shoot some product videos for next winter’s new range of hardshells.  We learnt quite a bit, the main thing being that talking to camera in a coherent way whilst being snowed on is hard even in a futuristic orange jacket.  Our product manager Rich T. was in full director mode, think Christopher Nolan in a Citadel Jacket, but finally we had enough footage to hone our editing skills with.  A meeting with the Scottish Avalanche Information Service team followed at Glenmore Lodge and we showed them some of the new Winter ‘13 Gore-Tex Pro designs that they’re input had helped to develop.  Fortunately they all looked suitably impressed by the huge amount of work that’s been done and we all headed to Digger’s for wine and strudel.

By now I’d noticed that the forecast for Tuesday could only be described as stellar with no wind, low temperatures and superb visibility.  The only issue was that it was a Tuesday and, even at ME, just going climbing on work days is generally frowned upon.  Unfortunately Rich had to head south for his trip to China but Andy and I persuaded ourselves it would be ok if we just did a quick route in Sneachda…. it would only take a couple of hours if we were quick. 
 
Andy making progress up the first pitch
Nearly running into the corrie it was just as perfect as MWIS had promised and we made rapid progress towards the Mess of Pottage with a view to getting something done fast.  The crag was plastered in most places and it was already clear that gear was going to be hard to come by in places.  Aiming for a fairly direct and not overly hard line Andy set off up the first pitch of  Yukon Jack and made fairly steady progress between gear stuffed and hammered into icy cracks.  I followed as fast as I could before setting off into the line of Hidden Chimney in the interests of speed, inevitably we were already running late.  Perfect neve made for rapid climbing and we were soon pulling ourselves over the final chockstone into the sunshine.  The views from the top were incredible with perfect visibility and still no wind at all.  The Loch Avon basin looked incredible and it was no surprise to hear later that Sticil Face on the Shelter Stone was done that day, a classic tick that still eludes me.  We stuffed everything away as quickly as we could and set off down towards the ski car park at a run.  Four hours, and some rep-tastic over-taking by Andy on the A9, later we were back in Kendal, behind on work but glad to have grabbed a rare perfect day in the Cairngorms. 

Stunning views at the top but the mission back south ahead
 
 

Wednesday, 12 December 2012

Ski Touring in Blizzard Conditions - It's all about 'starting cold' and keeping your sanity!

On Friday 7th December, the Whitedot testing team in Chamonix took advantage of lift pre-opening and superb early season conditions to get some uphill miles on the CarbonLite Ranger (all-access freeride ski due for release in the New Year). With the snow thumping down and the avalanche risk at level 4 of 5, the team decided to take on the forest trails of Les Houches to give ourselves a workout. 

 
Les Houches is Chamonix valley's 'go to' location when the snow is falling hard. The forest runs really help counter flat-light conditions and reduce avalanche risk. Additionally, the history of the Kandahar Downhill is always inspirational - even on the uphill slog!

Getting going is always the hard part of ski touring - finding your rhythm, temperature control, and when it is snowing - finding the right combination of weather protection versus ventilation. After half an hour, inevitably you start to focus and the mind starts to unwind - all that matters is to keep a metronomic pace. 


But getting to this point takes a little practice and the right set up. The key is to 'start cold' and to layer your kit properly'. The conditions we were working in on Friday were minus 3-4 degrees, and snowing at about 5cm per hour, no wind (thankfully!). For me, the combination of a wicking baselayer (LS Groundup), cotton tee, and the Changabang ME shell provide, along with a thin merino wool hat, were perfect. 


After a couple of hours of uphill slog on forest trails, the Les Houches ridge line appeared and thoughts turn to chocolate, flask of hot coffee and warm kit. Ordinarily, the Les Houches ridge line is one of those places in the world which stops you in your tracks - the views are some of the best in the Alps. To the east is Chamonix valley with the Aiguilles Rouge on one side and the Drus/Mont Blanc chain on the other. To the south is the Mont Blanc massif proper and running away to the West are the valleys of Bionassey, Les Contamines and Megeve. The contrast of big mountain versus the closer stuff, are aweinspiring and you feel you can reach out and touch the peaks from this spot.

 
Anyway, this wasn't the case on Friday! It was a zero visibility day and the focus was definitely on a quick re-fuel and strip the skins off the skis and get a forest powder run back down to the Bellevue car park in Les Houches. I switched from Super Alpine gloves to Couloir gloves, and added an Arete down vest to add warmth on the descent. I replaced my woolly hat with my helmet and googles and was good to go!

Needless to say 30 minutes later, and back in the car park, we all had large grins on our faces and there was 'high fives' all round - how very 'early season'!
 
Mark - Director Whitedot Skis

Thursday, 6 December 2012

Sports Scotland Avalanche Information Service 2012/13


Avalanche hazard considerations should always be part of any winter hill goers daily plans. Whether you are a climber, walker or off-piste skier venturing into the hills, you should always continue to note snow and weather conditions in respect to any potential avalanche hazard.
Mark Diggins - SAIS photo Becca Joyce
Mountain Equipment are proud to work with and support the Sports Scotland Avalanche Information Service for our 7th year.   
The SAIS is funded by the Scottish Sports Council and publish vital daily forecasts of the avalanche, snow, and climbing conditions at 5 key climbing areas of Scotland during the Winter season (Dec - April).

Avalanche Information Reports for Winter 2012/13 will be issued for the weekend 7th, 8th and 9th December for Northern Cairngorms and Lochaber and daily reports for all 5 areas -
will commence on the 13th December 2012.
You can view SAIS Report pdf for 2011/12 Season here and find out further information at the SAIS Website here

Thursday, 1 November 2012

Kendal Mountain Festival 2012

Its just a few weeks until Kendal Mountain festival gets underway. 

Check out this years trailer edited by Al Lee below which gives you a small taster of the films that will feature at this years festival along side some amazing lectures and events.






Mountain Equipment are proud to be a major sponsor of the KMF & sponsor of the Mountain Equipment Pub Quiz again for 2012.

Mountain Equipment Pub Quiz with Andy Kirkpatrick

Friday 16th November 12 - Malt room - 9.30pm

Last year’s inaugural Pub Quiz was a night to remember for many reasons. Kendal at its best; funny, anarchic and slightly out of control.
Once again this year Andy Kirkpatrick is at the helm so you can always expect the unexpected, while quizmaster Mick Ryan from UKClimbing sets the questions. We’ll be ensuring that topics range far and wide, including some rounds that may have nothing whatsoever to do with climbing. So make sure your team includes plenty of talent! Just 22 tables available – book early to avoid disappointment!
Tickets are sold individually, but the Quiz will be structured in teams of six. If you want to enter as a team, buy six tickets and you can all grab a table together. If you just want to take part as an individual, buy a single ticket and scratch teams will be made up on the night
Pub Quiz Tickets are available here
For further programme and ticket information head too - www.mountainfest.co.uk