A Quick Trip to the Cairngorms

The plan had been simple, head to the Cairngorms early so that we could climb on Sunday and do some work on Monday.  Sat at home in Kendal I scoured the various forecasts and conditions reports to be met by the promise of some even more unpleasant weather than normal in Scotland and the end of a brief thaw, it didn’t sound appealing.  Instead we decided to take a risk on the most optimistic forecast I could find for the Lakes which suggested that it might cool down just enough to make a winter route viable.


Andy looking pleased to be out in the Cairngorms

As we left the car at the Old Dungeon Ghyll in Langdale the thermometer read 6◦C but if anything it felt even warmer than that.  We set off more for the exercise than anything and by the time we were most of the way up the Band I was starting to feel a bit over equipped for Lakeland hill walking.  We made the only logical decision and headed to Bilbo’s for coffee and a bacon sandwich.



Gearing up belopw the Mess of Pottage, a very white Fiacaill Buttress beyond

By mid-afternoon we were driving north looking forward to a busy work day on Monday but slightly dejected about the lack of climbing.  Fortunately the morning brought a return to proper winter weather and we headed into the Northern Corries to shoot some product videos for next winter’s new range of hardshells.  We learnt quite a bit, the main thing being that talking to camera in a coherent way whilst being snowed on is hard even in a futuristic orange jacket.  Our product manager Rich T. was in full director mode, think Christopher Nolan in a Citadel Jacket, but finally we had enough footage to hone our editing skills with.  A meeting with the Scottish Avalanche Information Service team followed at Glenmore Lodge and we showed them some of the new Winter ‘13 Gore-Tex Pro designs that they’re input had helped to develop.  Fortunately they all looked suitably impressed by the huge amount of work that’s been done and we all headed to Digger’s for wine and strudel.

By now I’d noticed that the forecast for Tuesday could only be described as stellar with no wind, low temperatures and superb visibility.  The only issue was that it was a Tuesday and, even at ME, just going climbing on work days is generally frowned upon.  Unfortunately Rich had to head south for his trip to China but Andy and I persuaded ourselves it would be ok if we just did a quick route in Sneachda…. it would only take a couple of hours if we were quick. 
 

Andy making progress up the first pitch

Nearly running into the corrie it was just as perfect as MWIS had promised and we made rapid progress towards the Mess of Pottage with a view to getting something done fast.  The crag was plastered in most places and it was already clear that gear was going to be hard to come by in places.  Aiming for a fairly direct and not overly hard line Andy set off up the first pitch of  Yukon Jack and made fairly steady progress between gear stuffed and hammered into icy cracks.  I followed as fast as I could before setting off into the line of Hidden Chimney in the interests of speed, inevitably we were already running late.  Perfect neve made for rapid climbing and we were soon pulling ourselves over the final chockstone into the sunshine.  The views from the top were incredible with perfect visibility and still no wind at all.  The Loch Avon basin looked incredible and it was no surprise to hear later that Sticil Face on the Shelter Stone was done that day, a classic tick that still eludes me.  We stuffed everything away as quickly as we could and set off down towards the ski car park at a run.  Four hours, and some rep-tastic over-taking by Andy on the A9, later we were back in Kendal, behind on work but glad to have grabbed a rare perfect day in the Cairngorms. 

Stunning views at the top but the mission back south ahead