The BLOG has moved

From Spring 2014 our Blog has moved to http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/news

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Scott Expedition: They did it!

As of 1.15am GMT Ben Saunders and Tarka L'Herpiniere have officially completed their world-record breaking return journey to the South Pole & back following in footsteps of Captain Scott. 

This is the first time Scott's route has ever been completed; and marks the end of the longest polar journey on foot in history.

Huge congratulations to Ben, Tarka & The Scott Expedition Team from all at ME ‪#‎historyinthemaking‬

Check out more at: www.scottexpedition.com  

Working out what is Safe on the Mountain?

Guest blog post from friend of the brand and Whitedot skis Team member 

"There is always great motivation to get some decent early season ski touring ‘in the legs’ so it becomes a bit easier later in the season when the longer routes come ‘in condition’.

There also the added bonus of escaping the New Year crowds and hours of queuing for lifts!

It usually involves some cunning route selections, first lift (if you are going for lift assists), or heading straight out from the back garden into the forest trails. But this season has been especially difficult, in terms of route selection, with what has proven not only a thin snow base but where it has snowed a high avalanche risk. Although, Schumacher has unfortunately grabbed the headlines over the last week, the Swiss Guides press release concerning avalanche fatalities did not make good reading. There have been far too many ski tourers caught out on medium and high mountain areas on 35-45 degree pitches who have lost their lives.

And the snow pack doesn’t look like it is going to get too much safer just yet.

Fortunately, we have had some good local advice and our own experiences which has kept us, fingers crossed, training and testing in the right areas in and around Chamonix over the last 10 days or so. We focused on some of the glacier bowls which do not breach over the 35 degree gradients, or forest skiing where snow levels have permitted.

We even ski toured up forest tracks upto lift areas and then skied the patrolled areas! The key was to stay safe and have the patience that the pack will stabilise….eventually.

And, as always, we have skied with ABS airbags, 1^st Aid kit, shovel, probes and transceivers.

Some areas we covered:

Col D’Argentiere – Glacier d’Argentiere basin (bottom and mid-section avoiding large crevasse area below the col. Although, traditionally this are is left alone until February….the even gradients and accessibility made this area very inviting as it gives a great ‘remoteness’ feel to the day.

Vallee de Berard – Although the ‘bush-wacking’ at the valley floor is tiring, the terrain thereafter is open and therefore the avalanche risk areas can be avoided.

Glacier de Blatiere approach/surrounds – The ski touring terrain above the mid-station of the Aiguille du Midi lift is vast, and relatively easy gradients allows easy route selection. The descent options are also safe as you quickly fall into forest terrain and forest trails... Mark"

SAIS Avalanche Hazard Forecast Season - Start of Season 2013/14

Daily Avalanche Information Reports for all 5 operational areas will start Thursday 12th December 2013

Avalanche hazard considerations should always be part of any winter hill goers daily plans and we would recommend that climbers, walkers and off-piste skiers currently venturing into the hills, continue to note snow and weather conditions in respect of any potential avalanche hazard. Be prepared to modify your plans accordingly. 

General Information

The SAIS publish daily forecasts of the avalanche, snow, and mountain conditions at the 5 most popular areas of Scotland during the season.

• Creag Meagaidh
• Glencoe
• Lochaber
• Northern Cairngorms
• Southern Cairngorms

Torridon Pilot: A pilot SAIS Avalanche Information report service for the Torridon area will commence on the 24th December 2013, and will run for limited periods during the winter. (24 Dec - 29 Dec 2013  - In 2014,  Jan 1- 5th,  wkend10-12th, 31 Jan - 2 Feb, 14 - 22 Feb.) 

Mountain Equipment are proud to be the official clothing supplier to the SAIS Team.

For further information and all the latest reports head to - http://www.sais.gov.uk/

Mailsail - Jens Holsten

Finally, after years of big mountains, injuries and full time winemaking, the stars have aligned and Jens Holsten is feeling the pressure to get it done. Featuring a proud new line in the beautiful Icicle Canyon outside of Leavenworth, WA.

Film by Max Hasson - http://maxhasson.com

Paint The Town White: David Steele Season Edit

Who knows how long I’ll paint houses to pay my student loans. How many more trips to new skylines will fit on the odometer. What the changing climate will do to the snow that starts high, fills in the runs from the summit down. And just like the nonsense that will always be there, the freedom and identity found on pair of skis remains steadfast. From Denali to Nelson to the hill I grew up skiing in Montana, there’s certainty. Buzz in the parking lot. Stoke on the skin track. Joy as I’ve ever known it, free as every flake that falls.

-David

Film by Jarig Media

Welcome to the team: Natalie Berry

Were psyched to welcome one Britain's most talented female climbers Natalie Berry to our pro partner team.

Natalie discovered climbing at the age of nine and it quickly took over her life. Having joined the Glasgow Climbing Centre kid’s club she soon progressed into competition climbing where following numerous comp wins she was asked to join the GB Youth Climbing Team (aged 11). This gave Natalie the opportunity to compete at an international level all over the world, culminating in a win at the European Youth Series in Slovenia in 2007.

Having achieved so much as part of the GB Junior Team Natalie became increasingly drawn outdoors and started sport climbing intensively at age 18. This took Natalie on numerous trips to top sport destinations across Europe including Céüse, Siurana and Gorges du Loup. 

By 2012 she was onsighting 7c and had climbed up to 8b, one of only a handful of British women to do so.

Now aged 21 and based out of Edinburgh, Scotland Natalie continues to push her climbing with moves into to trad and winter disciplines being her focus over the coming months, as well as continuing to climb for the GB senior lead team.

Natalie's competition climbing highlights so far:

·       8 Times British Champion (Including BRYCS, BLCCs and BBCs)

·       EYS Kranj 07 (1st Place)

·       World Youth Championships China 05 (5th Place)

·       World Youth Championships Austria 06 (4th Place)

·       EYS Veliko Tarnova 06 (5th Place)

·       EYS Annecy 06 (3rd Place)

·       EYS Kranj 06 (2nd Place)

·       EYS Warsaw 07 (2nd Place)

·       EYS Edinburgh 09 (4th Place)

·       3rd Overall EYS 2006 and 2007

·       1st British Youth Open 2010 EICA Ratho

·       1st Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2010

·       Scottish Universities Champion 2011

·       2nd Place British Universities 2011

·       1st British Universities 2012

·       Championne Départementale Isère 2012

·       3rd Departmental Speed Championships Isère 2012

·       4th Coupe de France Valence 2012

You can keep up with all the latest from Natalie at - http://natalieberry.wordpress.com

all photos: Chris Prescott at www.minerva-design.com

1st Ascent: 'Wüstenblume' - Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites

First Ascent on Heiligkreuzkofel – Dolomites

Route: Wüstenblume (400m, 9 pitches, VIII+)

During this summer Ulli & his climbing partner Josef Hilpold made a successful 1st ascent of a project they have been working on the west face of Heiligkreukofel in the Dolomites.

The Westface of Heiligkreuzkofel has a breathtaking 600m face – known from the first ascent of the ‘Mittelpfeiler’ (middle spur) by Reinhold & Günther Messner in 1968.

Ulli & Josef worked on their route ‘Wüstenblume’ for several days this summer – and made their 1^st Ascent on Sep 28^th climbing the route in 8 hours.

Here's the report from Ulli... 

Abenteuer  – ALPINISMUS pur      

Erstbegehung am Heiligkreuzkofel – Dolomiten

‘Wüstenblume’ (400m, 9 SL, VIII+)

"Südtirol ist bekannt für seine außergewöhnlichen Kletterer und Alpinisten. Zwei von Ihnen sind Ulrich Viertler und Josef Hilpold. Für beide ist mit der Erstbegehung der ‘Wüstenblume’ am Heiligkreuzkofel ein lang ersehnter Traum in Erfüllung gegangen.

Die Liste seiner extremen Wiederholungen ist lang, doch für Ulrich Viertler zählen weniger Grade und Leistungen als der ästhetische und emotionale Wert seiner Touren.

Der Heiligkreuzkofel, 2908 Meter hoch, befindet sich in der Fanesgruppe in den Dolomiten.  Durch seine atemberaubende - zugleich majestätische Form und  der bis zu 600 Meter hohen Westwand, zählt er sicherlich zu einem der eindruckvollsten Berge in den Dolomiten.

Nicht zuletzt wurde die Wand 1968, durch den von Reinhold und Günther Messner eröffneten Mittelpfeiler bekannt, eine der damals schwierigsten Routen überhaupt.

An sechs Tagen im Sommer 2013 gelang es den beiden diese unglaubliche Linie zu eröffnen. Abgesichert wurde ausschließlich traditionell mit Schlaghaken und mobilen Sicherungen, wie es am Heiligkreuzkofel üblich ist. Die Route verläuft in der Hauptwand am rechten Pfeiler zwischen der Mutschlecher - Großrubatscher Gedächtnisführe und der Mayerl - Verschneidung.

Am 28. September war es nun schlussendlich so weit und es gelang ihnen in 8 Stunden die Route an einem Stück frei zu klettern. „Es war alles perfekt, es passte einfach alles. Ein großartiges Erlebnis mit vielen Emotionen geht zu Ende.“

Den beiden Südtiroler Alpinisten ist es ein großes Anliegen das Alpinklettern in seiner ursprünglichen Art und Weise zu erhalten und insbesondere die Tradition am Heiligkreuzkofel, wo noch ausschließlich mit Schlaghaken und mobilen Sicherungsmitteln ohne Zuhilfenahme von Bohrhaken geklettert wird, zu respektieren und diese Werte auch weiterzugeben. Mit dieser außergewöhnlichen Erstbegehung  ist Ihnen das sicherlich gelungen!!

Es ist ein Ort,

der Freiheit,     

der glücklich  macht.                                                                                     

Ulli" 

Scott Expedition: Farewell London

This week Ben and Tarka said farewell to London as they set off for Antarctica to take on the Scott Expedition. It's a long journey South that will take several weeks to get to the starting point but they will be in touch on route with a full update on final preparations. Heres a short video of their farewell...

Ben and Tarka at the Shard, London

Keep up to date with all the latest at http://www.scottexpedition.com 

PRODUCT SAFETY NOTICE: Slacklines

If you have purchased/own a Mountain Equipment Slackline please read the important information at this link:

English: http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/Library/pdf/Slackline_Check_ME_ENG_UKoffice%20edit.pdf 

German:http://de.mountain-equipment.co.uk/Library/pdf/ME_Slackline_safety%20notice_german.pdf

If you have any further questions please feel free to email us at: products@mountain-equipment.co.uk

Video: The Reality Face - A new route in the Alaska Range

Heres a great edit put together by friend of the brand Max Hasson of Jens, Jared and Seth who teamed up with the goal of climbing into the unknown and managed to weave their way up Reality Peak over the course of 3 days. They grappled with steep ice, a long bivy and an epic slog across the 'Ridge of no Return'... 

Check out more at - 

Alpinist story:
alpinist.com/doc/web13x/newswire-reality-peak-first-ascent-alaska

Jens' blog:
jensholsten.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-reality-face-new-route-in-alaska.html

Anglo-Indian Expedition: Update from Andy

"Hey there and yes my back seems to be doing the job still.Am in Leh, having spent time in a field hospital then the Leh one and now am in a great hotel.

What happened was that on the night of the 15th August a huge avalanche hit where we were camped for the night. We were on our way back to reclimb the col at 6150 meters in order to get back to our base camp on the other side. Worried about running out of food and getting trapped by the weather we had decided to leave our Indian friends to climb peak 7019 and concentrate on the other summit - Plateau peak. So there we were in our sleeping bags when my tent and all was just blasted into the air,this came from the north side of Sasser Kangi 11, a 2000 meter high face and went across a glacier of say 1 /1.5 kilometers to hit us. The anchors holding our tents were just ripped out(Victor and Susan were rolled twenty meters but were okay), Me I went that and then was dropped twenty meters down a crevasse head first and backwards,the tent exploding and we I ended jammed by my elbow in the ice. This I freed by clawing at the ice with my un-gloved free hand (a bit of frostbite) and the chipping at the ice with a broken tent pole. I fell free into a standing position, still in my sleeping bag but wedged in between the walls of the bottom of the crevasse. My gear was strewn around, I found a glove.Thinking that I was paralysed in my left side I had decided that if I couldn't get out I would lay down and die. Not before trying all options though. I had no crampons or axes so couldn't climb and looked for a ramp or something, maybe to the south as to the north it was all vertical ice. I had one of your whistles around my neck so sounded it not expecting a reply as I felt sure that Victor and Susan were dead and that I had been spared to die a slower death. To my surprise, above me there was a shout then I saw a light on the surface. Still not sure whether they knew where I was I rummaged about in the debris of the tent at my feet to find my headlamp and signalled with that, A bit later a rope dropped down and Victor rappelled in and helped me get on boots and harness. I managed to prussick and they hauled until I was clear. I Emerged into a full storm and they put me into the remaining tent (my old bomproof Macpac) and there we were all jammed with me almost suffocating from a breathing problem when another avalanche struck us. I didn't think we would survive but the tent held this time and we could leave next morning, back down to the base camp we left the day before. I staggered behind the others in total agony until after a couple of hours they left me in the tent, I spent a worrying night with bouts of suffocating until next morning the Sherpas of our Indian friends appeared to carry me on a rope stretcher across the glacier, for hours in deep snow to camp. There we all waited a couple of days, with snow falling, on limited food until the call came that we were on standby from the Indian army and then two Allouette helicopters appeared and we flew out and down the N.Shukpa glacier at zero feet, under the cloud ceiling.That night I slept in a field hospital and the next day,for two hours we flew out to Leh and its hospital. I had a CT scan that showed I had a fractured Sacral(no 3) and other chips and bruises. All should heal okay. We lost a lot of kit and I presume Victor some how managed as I hear that they have done the first ascent of peak 7019 or Chamsen (unofficial name) also we all did the first traverse of the Sasser col(6150) meters from the Sakang glacier to the North Shukpa glacier. So a lot of exploration was carried out.The crossing of the col proved to be dangerous due to rockfall and also it became a trap too,this closed upon us once it had gone over.

I have to say your gear kept me alive, in the crevasse in the sleeping bag I felt surprisingly warm, despite everything getting wet.The clothing was great,as I had just enough to keep warm, the new Eclipse micro grid undershirt is really good,the fleece too and of course the K7 down jacket you sent me. I couldnt have survived without any of it. Will have more news in a few days,back in Chamonix on the 5/6th September Andy"

Scott Expedition: What jackets are best for Antarctica?

Here's a great video from Ben, Andy and Tems recent visit to our Manchester, HQ to talk clothing and equipment ahead of Scott Expedition in October.
    

Check out further videos and the latest at http://www.youtube.com/user/ScottExpedition

GORE-TEX Pro Week: Lhotse and Women's Manaslu Jacket's

The Lhotse and Women's Manaslu Jackets represent the pinnacle of waterproof protection for the most serious mountain all-rounders. Combining new generation GORE-TEX® Pro with our STORM Construction techniques, they take Mountain Equipment’s hardshell engineering to the next level. With up to 28% greater breathability and even better durability new GORE-TEX® Pro is built specifically for the most demanding applications. When combined with our 40D face fabric and even tougher 80D fabric reinforcements it becomes an exceptional choice for severe four-season mountain use.



A new and painstakingly engineered Alpine Cut offers exceptional fit and mobility which will be equally appreciated by mountaineers and hill walkers alike. Our renowned Mountain HC Hood swallows a climbing helmet but cinches down to offer equally perfect vision and mobility on remote treks through driving rain. The wired and laminated peak ensures performance in the face of violent gusts where less structured models can leave you unable to operate effectively.

Dave Rudkin - Pyb Instructor, GORE-TEX Pro product test, Chamonix 2013

photo: Lukasz Warzecha/www.lwimages.co.uk  

Consisting of two large chest pockets and a cavernous Napoleon pocket our Stratum Storage System ensures that the essentials remain accessible when wearing a rucksack or climbing harness. A new YKK® Aquaguard® moulded front zip is easy to use in difficult conditions and keeps working smoothly even as your jacket rimes up in inhospitable icy gullies. Laminated and bonded pit zips provide extra ventilation for heavily laden
walk-ins through driving snow and incessant drizzle.



Simple but highly protective shells that do it all, the Lhotse and Manaslu Jackets are equally at home on steep technical ground and in rain lashed valleys. Combining full specification design with features and fabrics guaranteed to perform in the worst weather they are the obvious choice for those who demand performance and simplicity.

For more information head to our website here 

Available exclusively from:

Cotswold Outdoor stores nationwide and online. 

More information at http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/Goretex-pro  

GORE-TEX Pro Week: Tupilak Pant & Women's Valdez Salopette

New: Tupilak Pant:

Based on our proven Changabang pant, these full spec mountaineering pants give total protection and mobility in the worst conditions imaginable. Reinforced in key areas to protect against abrasion in ice choked chimneys and cuts from racked screws.

Nick Bullock, GORE-TEX Pro product test, 

Chamonix 2013 photo: Lukasz Warzecha 

Check out more about the Tupilak Pant at the product page here


New: Women's Valdez Salopette:

When the lines between steep skiing and mountaineering begin to blur. Built without compromise to complement any of our GORE-TEX® Pro range when you’re seeking out remote climbs and the biggest descents.

Friend of the Brand Jess Whiskin, Whitedot Ski test,

Chamonix photo: Mark Perkins   

Check out more about the Women's Valdez Salopette at the product page here

Available now exclusively from:

Cotswold Outdoor stores nationwide and online. 

More information at http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/Goretex-pro  

GORE-TEX Pro Week: New Women's Cloud Peak Jacket

The Cloud Peak is based on our new Women’s Mountain fit and is the ideal choice for remote mountaineering and big ski days alike. Layering perfectly over heavier insulating layers it seals out everything the next big low pressure system can throw at you.




Using NEW generation GORE-TEX® Pro to provide the foundation for a jacket that not only seal out the worst storms but work with you on hard routes anywhere in the world. New GORE-TEX® Pro fabric offers better durability than ever before and up to 28% greater breathability. Combined with a 40D face fabric and ultra-tough yet mobile 80D reinforcements you have the current state-of-the-art in extreme protection.

Features & Benefits:

• 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro 40D fabric
• 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro 80D fabric reinforcements
• Mountain HC Hood is fully adjustable
• New Women’s Mountain fit with articulated and pre-shaped sleeves
• Storm Construction techniques used throughout
• Stratum Storage; 4 large pockets with YKK® moulded Aquaguard® zips and inner bonded edge guard
• 2-way YKK® moulded Aquaguard® centre front zip behind storm flap
• 2-way YKK® WR underarm pit zips with laminated and bonded entry
• Zip-out internal snow skirt
• Adjustable laminated cuffs and dual tether hem drawcords

For further information head over to the Cloud Peak product page here 

Available now exclusively from:

Cotswold Outdoor stores nationwide and online. 

More information at http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/Goretex-pro  

GORE-TEX Pro Week: NEW Changabang Jacket

When Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker made their ground breaking ascent of Changabang’s West Face in 1974 they used Mountain Equipment gear, just as Brendan Murphy and Andy Cave did when they set out to climb it’s North Face in 1997. Still regarded as one of the great Himalayan climbs, their route took 18 days and required gear that could cope with Super Alpine style climbing at altitude and often in bad weather. Andy took a prototype of what was to become the Changabang Jacket and his feedback helped to shape what is now a classic high mountain shell.

The latest Changabang retains much of Andy’s original input along with a host of New features that make this a superb all-round shell for the hardest routes and biggest descents year round.

Offering unflinching protection in the face of savage conditions, the Changabang makes full use of our Mountain fit and unrivalled Storm Construction techniques. The hardest climbing and the most serious skiing are all in a day’s work for this, the definitive fully featured hardshell.

FEATURES AND BENEFITS:

• 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro 40D fabric
• 3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro 80D fabric reinforcements
• Mountain HC Hood is fully adjustable
• Mountain fit with articulated and pre-shaped sleeves
• Storm Construction techniques used throughout
• 2-way YKK® moulded Aquaguard® centre front zip
• Stratum Storage; 4 large pockets with YKK® moulded Aquaguard® zips and inner bonded edge guard
• 2-way YKK® WR underarm pit zips with laminated and bonded entry
• Zip-out internal snow skirtAdjustable laminated cuffs and dual tether hem drawcords

For further information head over to the Changabang product page here 

Available now exclusively from:

Cotswold Outdoor stores nationwide and online. 

More information at http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/Goretex-pro