Baggy....
"The greatest spell for new routes in the History of North Wales... Wow! 18 New routes in 4 days
This has to be a record for North Wales surely? So many new routes in such a short period of time. The buzz is fantastic here in North Wales and conditions keep building its never ending. Between Friday 3rd and Monday 6th December all these routes have been climbed.
Baggy on George IV-4Gaz Davies and myself climbed 3 new routes. These routes were all turfy based and relatively short at 2 pitches each. The one route in particular, The Capstone Heel Hook V-7 * 90m V-7 gave a very interesting crux with little gear, as the cams and hex’s we required were in the van! The other two routes were George IV-4 * 105m and Turf Stomp IV-4 60M
Jon Ratcliffe opened his winter account on alongside Tim Badcock. They climbed a new mixed 2-pitch line V, 5 on good turf, hooks and torques. According to Jon this is at another crag X.
Gaz Davies, Dave Simpson and Paul James climbed The Whiskey Made Me Late V-6. Also Tom Morris and Will McCormack climbed Don't Forget Your Sole III. Another team Dave Almond, Neil Griffiths and Adam Crook went up Third Trinity Groove at VII-7. All these routes were done in Cwm Lloer.
Rich Cross and Dave Hollinger came over form Sheffield They managed to squeeze another new route in on the ladders The Great Escape VI-7
Geoff Bennett takes up his part of the action
Yes he's at it again Chris Parkin, Mike Pycroft & myself headed for the Ladders for some new route action towards Ice Fall Gully area. Between Sarajevo & Ice Fall Gully (Left Hand) are a number of enticing grooves. 2nd groove (a deep one) right of Sarajevo (where Chris' in situ belay sling from 1990s was still hanging!) is now Forlorn Hope 55m VI 5 a somewhat lonely & scary lead for my first this year! Next groove to the right is now Mostar V 5 50m, Chris's lead. A more amenable & perhaps enjoyable route worthy of a star!
Rich stone shows no sign of letting up; maybe he is in competition with Chris Parkin? He bagged another five new lines, a V-7, a V-5, Philistine V 7, The Sling V 5, and the Stone
V- 6,
In Cwm Idwal a new second pitch for Chicane was added V 5 by Misha and Tom Jumar
Chris Guest and partner added a route to Cyrn Las and Gaz Davies claimed yet another new route on Y Garn.
Where will this all end. Just think if the winter lasts till the end of MARCH as last season. How many new routes? We need a new guide surely."
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