Mountain Equipment

Cotswold Winter Courses

2012-02-03T14:13:00.005Z

I’ve been meaning to write a blog for about 3 weeks now but any spare time at all has been in fairly short supply here at ME! Below is a very belated summary of what's been going on.

Whilst others had already been working hard out at the Outdoor Retailer Show in the US things only got really busy for me with our winter courses for Cotswold Staff up in Scotland. Run in conjunction with Gore at Plas Y Brenin’s winter base, Alltshellach, these provide the chance for the lucky 60 to use our kit in the conditions it was designed for, get further training on our products and, crucially, to further their own skills. Over two three day programmes we ran walking, mountaineering and climbing courses dependent on the participants previous experience. This makes it an equally amazing opportunity whether you are taking your first steps in crampons or have already climbed to a high standard and want to be stretched further. This lead to the usual mixture of wide eyes, big grins and ultimately exhaustion as people made full use of some of the best guides and instructors around.

Accompanying the staff with their PYB instructor each day were members of the ME and Gore team as well as ME Pro Partners Andy Turner, Stu McAleese and Dave MacLeod. This meant that there was near continuous input on technical skills, avalanche awareness, kit design, fabrics, looking cool in the mountains and how to climb grade XI….. depending on who you were with on a given day. Most days were spent in either Glen Coe or on Ben Nevis in conditions that took in the whole spectrum of Scottish winter weather. This suited us perfectly as almost anything works on blue sky days. The combination of storm force winds, snow, hail, lashing rain and even, very briefly, sun gave everyone concerned cause to be grateful for the design of their kit and the fabrics it was made from.

Full days out were very, very closely [I managed a whole cup of tea and a shower one day!] followed by product sessions where we discussed the kit we make and peoples experiences having actually used it. The aim is that the staff present will not only be personally more knowledgeable but also able to feedback what they’ve learnt to their colleagues back in store. This will hopefully mean that when you’re next in Cotswold you can get good, relevant advice from someone with first hand experience whether it be ME kit your interested in or a pair of winter boots and crampons.

The always substantial [half a chicken anyone?!] and excellent dinners were then followed by a further lecture on avalanche awareness or, on the later nights, a talk by Andy Turner and Dave MacLeod. All were excellent and the observant will have noticed the sneak preview of Dave’s winter project that has just become the amazing looking Castle in the Sky.

After all this the bar didn’t see much attention as most simply shuffled their kit in the drying room and collapsed into bed before another early start. Many thanks to all those who took part with so much enthusiasm, the feedback has been amazing and made the 16 hour days seem even more worthwhile than normal! Generally I’d have gone home for some sleep after all that excitement but a flight to ISPO in Munich the next morning put paid to that. After a week of busy trade show action and a little too much pork and beer I’ve finally made it home to Kendal. Nearly 3 weeks away and I've come back to frozen taps….. time to find my tools and a head torch, fight the exhaustion and go to search for some Lakes ice before the thaw!

Rich B.

Dave's latest testpiece.....a belayers view.

2012-02-03T13:54:00.003Z

By Ruth Taylor

“I’m quite nervous about this route, Ruth.”

Hmmmm, not necessarily the words you expect to be coming out of Dave Macleod’s mouth before he launches upwards, but out they came. I was standing at the bottom of Druim Shionnach in Glen Shiel beneath a HUUUGE roof. I’m sure when Dave, Andy and I set off that morning I was chief photographer and Andy was going to be belaying and potentially having a blast on the “project”. But here I was lashed into a belay, Andy was away up the top of the crag to abseil into photographers position and Dave was getting ready to lead off, with the words….

“I’m not sure how this is going to go. I might get involved in a mighty battle with the roof, or I might just shout Take.” Closely followed by….“I apologize now for falling on your head on this start.”

Getting psyched for the battle.

What???? This is Dave Macleod – he’s not going to fall off I secretly thought to myself. However, as he teetered up the groove above without a lot of gear and some less than solid rock – fully decked out with pointy sharp things I did have a few moments of doubt and wished I was a little bit further away from said pointy spikey things!

Once at the top of the groove the next step was to pull out onto a slab, steadily done and now Dave wasn’t very easy to see, I could just hear a series of phrases….

“The roof is getting bigger the closer I get to it!”

“I’ll just back this peg up and then it’s a bit of a sketchy 10ft”

“Right, just going to do the sketchy moves..”

“It’s like being back on The Long Hope, I’m hooking into bird shit!”

Dave was by now safely ensconced directly under the massive 6m roof. From where I was standing, this looked like an impossible task, fully horizontal and nothing that looked like decent hooks to get your tools into.

The evening before Dave had been talking about his visit the previous week to work on the route. He talked about aiding across the roof, on some cams, bulldogs, a pecker and a completely downward pointing knifeblade peg. The cams being about the only decent gear of the lot!

Holey Moley that's steep!!

He had also described the moves he’d need to make – figure of fours!! Now as far as I know Scottish mixed trad climbing and figure of fours is not normal! Plenty of fig fours and all that on sport mixed stuff – but above dodgy knifeblades???

Anyway with all that information whirling around in my head I stood there – getting slowly colder as Dave prepared himself. He’d gone and got the cams in by reaching out from an undercut/can opener off his axe and then scuttled back across to the resting spot under the left end of the roof. Andy by this point had appeared over the lip of the roof and had eyes out on stalks looking at the roof.

“OK, I’m going to give it a go”

Dave then set off purposefully, along to the take off point, got the undercut/can opener reached out and placed the next pick into the crack somehow and so began the battle.

Clipping some other gear and inching out into the roof the only option was to cut loose.

“Oh my god, that pick isn’t in right…..it’s going to rip any second”

All Andy and I could do at this point was to shout encouragement and keep a watchful eye on the belaying! Luckily the axe didn’t rip and he made it to the next placement which was a little bit more secure. After clipping the next runner, all manner of whacky moves broke loose.

Footless-ness, followed by 2 figure of fours in a row saw Dave reach his picks around the apex on the roof. The downside to this was the tiny tenuous hooks they were placed in with the last bit of gear being the aforementioned downward pointing knifeblade. A fall from here would be a VERY bad idea.

I think all of our hearts were in our mouths, although none more so than Dave’s I’m sure. If Andy and I could have pushed Dave up through mental power alone we’d have been doing a pretty good job!

With final careful, careful moves Dave disappeared around the roof, and found himself a restful spot and some more gear. Phew!!

“I’m going to stand here for a few minutes Ruth.”

The crag - looking wintery.

I can’t say I was surprised!

You might think that that was it, all over. You would be quite wrong. Dave had decided to finish the pitch at the top of the crag, although splitting it into 2 would have been possible. But with no second he forged on upwards, after a bit of rope jiggery pokery – you get a bit too much rope drag around a roof that big to continue without pulling the rope through.

Not sure I've got enough layers on!

Andy by now had come down to the bottom as Dave made painstaking progress up to the finish. A very lonely lead and one without much gear – typically he’d taken a minimal rack and used a lot of it on the pitch up to and around the roof. Andy was describing the terrain on the upper part of the crag, not many decent cracks and lots of small rounded flakes – sounded gripping!

Sometime later we heard a jubilant shout from somewhere up above – route finished!!

A little later still Dave reappeared at the lip of the roof abseiling down to get the gear back – getting it out from under the roof looked almost as hard as getting it in, in the first place!

Once we were all back on the ground it was time to head back to the valley and enjoy a bit of sunshine on the way…

A hugely inspiring day out – I really can’t believe anyone can look so composed whilst hanging off one axe under a huge roof with no footholds. Wow!!

Oh and for those wondering about conditions, check out the crag picture – all pretty white and wintery – not much chance of rime and snow on the underside of the roof!!

Dave and Andy looking happy with the days work - in their matching outfits!!

Backcountry Skiing in the North Cascades

2012-02-02T04:19:00.007Z

Yesterday I headed out with Craig & Woody from our US distributors to sample some of the backcountry skiing in the North Cascades.

We also met up with a couple of the local snow patrol guys from the nearby Stevens Pass resort plus local blogger Andy Dappen who looks after the Website Wenatchee Outdoors

Craig also took the opportunity to sample some of next winters ski specific salopettes, the new Kamchatka Saloepettes seen here in a rather dashing blue.

We left the relative hustle of Stevens Pass and headed up Skyline Peak before ascending to Tye Peak, with views South towards Mount Stewart. Absolutely stunning!

Full trip reports can be found at www.climberandrunner.wordpress.com and also www.wenatcheeoutdoors.org

Nick Bullock: BMC Winter Meet Round up

2012-02-01T15:13:00.000Z

Head over to Nick's Blog here for his full report from the BMC Winter Meet

Guy and Nick accessing the next move photo Bayard Russell

Nick on the 2nd Pitch of Guerdon Grooves photo Bayard Russell

On the road in North America

2012-01-27T16:40:00.000Z

Well we have just wrapped up a busy week at the Outdoor Retailer tradeshow in Salt Lake City, Utah. We've presented the new Winter 2012 line to about 35 stores as well as meeting up with various magazines including one of the USA's most well known publications 'Outside'

At the same time, some of the worst winter storms to have hit the North-West have been doing their best to wipe away one of the worst starts to the American ski season in decades as more than 50 inches of snow have been deposited across the Rockies and Cascades in the past five days.

And so, leaving our US team of Craig and Woody to it, for a week or so, as they headed off to another tradeshow in Denver, I jumped in the car and headed North, destination Jackson Hole, Wyoming in search of the POW.

The first challenge was working how best to be there and with the 8000ft Teton Pass closed due to numerous avalanches, it was the 5hr trip along the winding roads through the wilds of Wyoming that was our preferred route. All was clear until we reached Bridger National Forest, at which point we hit the next winter storm rattling across the Rockies. It was a very lonely hour or two through the rolling uplands, with only the occasional passing snowplough for company.

DAV Expedition teams: Avalanche awareness training

2012-01-18T14:54:00.000Z

Last week members of both the guys and girls DAV teams hooked up and headed for Silvretta, Austria for a few days of intense Avalanche training lead by team coach David Göttler and the DAV´s avalanche 'Guru' Chris Semmel. Chris and David took the team through both theoretical and practical training to further improve their knowledge of avalanches and of course how best to avoid them all in preparation for their expeditions ahead over the next 18 months.

Of course the trip wasn’t all about training and the team managed to get a few ascents and decents in the bag on Heidelberger Spitze, Lareiner Joch and Ritzen Joch.

German.....

DAV Expeditionskader (Frauen und Herren) zusammen beim Lawinencamp

Dreiantennige LVS-Geräte? Lawinensonden mit akustischer Trefferanzeige?

Für einige der nicht im Bergsportfachhandel tätigen Exped-Kadermitglieder sind das bis zum LVS-Camp auf der Heidelberger Hütte nur böhmische Dörfer.

Um dies zu ändern, treffen wir uns im Herzen der Silvretta mit dem Frauen-Expedkader 2013.

Unter Leitung des DAV-Lawinenpapst Chris Semmel und fleißiger Assistenz unseres Kadertrainers David Göttler versuchen wir fünf Tage lang etwas Licht ins Dunkel der Lawinenkunde zu bringen. Besonderer Fokus wird hierbei nicht nur auf die Minimierung der weißen Gefahr in den heimischen Alpen gelegt, sondern auch auf eine Reduktion der selbigen während der Expedition.

Während theoretischer Vorträge und praktischer Übungen auf Skitour versuchen wir dem komplexen Feld der Gefahrenbeurteilung auf die Schliche zu kommen.

Das eigene Halbwissen erweist sich im Gespräch mit Chris Semmel nicht nur ein Mal als antiquiert und unvollständig und so sind wir froh um die professionelle Annäherung an das schwierige Thema.

Bei all der ernsten Lawinenthematik vergeht uns aber trotzdem nicht der Spaß am Skitourengehen und wir können bei bestem Powder die ersten Spuren von der Heidelberger Spitze, dem Lareiner Joch und dem Ritzen Joch ziehen.

Long Hope Night at the RGS

2012-01-10T17:13:00.007Z

Dave, Andy and Paul will be hosting a Long Hope Evening at the Royal Geographical Society, Kensington, London on Wednesday 8th February'12. Dave gives us more information below...

"On February 8th, myself, Andy Turner and filmmaker Paul Diffley will be speaking at the Royal Geographical Society in London about the Longhope route. Mountain Equipment and Gore-Tex have helped us arrange an evening of entertainment at the RGS to share with you what was pretty memorable adventure for us, both in terms of the climbers involved in attempting to climb this cliff over 40 years, and in documenting it on film.

Myself and Andy will be speaking about our experiences in preparing and attempting the first free ascent of the original Longhope Route as well as some of the history behind climbing on the cliff, and then we’ll present The Long Hope film made by Paul Diffley. In particular I’ll talk about some of the psychology behind taking on a three-year sporting ambition to open a new route at world class difficulty like this, how I’ve learned to be comfortable with the dangers involved, and some of the hurdles that you just couldn’t plan for along the way. Andy will be speaking about how his winter mountaineering adventures in Scotland, the Alps and Norway were about as good preparation as you could get for this type of adventure, yet still not enough to avoid some knee trembling moments on a 1400 foot loose, bird infested sea-cliff.

We’ll have a bar and plenty of time to meet up and talk about adventures on cliffs during the evening or ask questions. We’ll also have some signed copies of the Long Hope DVD and various other films and books we’ve made. Doors open at 6pm to start 7pm. It should be a great night!

Tickets and full details are available in my shop right here. It’s going to be a busy show so it would be a very good plan to get your ticket early."

Photos: Lukasz Warzecha

Epic snowfall in the Chamonix valley and it continues …

2012-01-05T15:06:00.003Z

Latest post from Jess Whiskin and the Whitedot team who are currently out in Chamonix testing and photographing their new range of Fall 12/13 skis as well as some of our Winter 12 Product.

Were not jealous of the snow here in the UK...honest!

"At the beginning of December the prospects for a good winter in the Chamonix valley were looking bleak; these pictures of a jog along the rivershow there was not a snowflake to be seen at 1100m on the 5th December.We’re pleased to report however, that it is now an entirely different story and snowfall in the French Alps has smashed hundred year records.

There was general chaos as hundreds of tourists flocking to Chamonix for the holidays, grappled with icy roads and parking spots blocked with piles of snow.The Mont Blanc tunnel over to Italy was closed for two days over the new year due to avalanche risk and the pisteurs have been struggling to keep the lifts and runs open. Here at Whitedot skis, however, this is prime testing conditions to really get to grips with how the skis behave in powder, so our team have been skiing hard, testing the new prototype, all in the name of research of course.

Controversially I even broke out my snowboard as metres of untracked, powder just off the sides of the piste was irresistible. (Usually it is either too icy, too steep, too cruddy, too wet or too heavy so it has been a real treat to snowboard in near perfect conditions). I have also been testing a new ski touring set-upready for later in the Spring. Being a bit of a vertically challenged girl, it is really important that I find the perfect balance between a pair of skis which is wide enough to respond well in the powder but which is also manageable for my little legs to get up the hill in the first place.

Obviously, it goes without saying that this amount of snow requires a considerable degree of caution and awareness in terms of being intelligent in assessing the avalanche risk. Conditions this good always demand caution, proper equipment and local knowledge, even if just venturing a little way from the piste. Over the last week alone there has been 2 metres of snowfall in 48 hrs, a thaw cycle and now another metre of snow is falling today (the 5th January) down to the valley floor. So, first task tomorrow morning for team Whitedot when the snow stops is to dig an avalanche pit to analyse the snow pack before heading out with our pro-riders on a back country photoshoot."

Jess

http://whitedotskis.com/

Stephen Venables: Update & Lecture Tour

2012-01-04T15:39:00.005Z

Over to Stephen....

"Last month I returned from a hugely enjoyable expedition to South Georgia. Skip Novak and I were accompanied by a boatload of surgeons and physicians, a website mogul, a venture capitalist and a novelist. We were blessed with generally fine weather for a generally uneventful repeat of Shackleton’s famous crossing of the island.

On the way home I stopped for a few days in Chile, as a guest speaker for Fundacion Vertical’s annual Geografica conference. I had a wonderful time with Rodrigo Jordan and his colleagues, did a little rock climbing, and visited the street in Viña del Mar where my grandmother was born in 1898. And, to accommodate me in the style to which I wish I were accustomed, our man in Santiago, Jon Benjamin, generously put me up at the British Embassy.

Now to 2012.

Rosie and I are looking forward to a couple of quick holidays in Amsterdam and India, on the back of speaking engagements. At some stage we will also go out to the Alps, to visit Edmond, who is working in Les Arcs.

Back here, I will be touring my Eric Shipton lecture sponsored by Mountain Equipment

JANUARY
Thurs 26th STREET, SOMERSET Strode Theatre 01458 44 28 46
Mon 30th SALFORD The Lowry 0843 208 6000

FEBRUARY
Sat 11th BUXTON Opera House 0845 1272190

MARCH
Mon 5th BIRMINGHAM Town Hall 0121 780 3333
Thurs 8th LLANDUDNO Venue Cymru 01492 872000
Thurs 22nd DURHAM The Gala 0191 332 4041
Weds 28th RADLETT The Radlett Centre 01923 859291
Thurs 29th INVERNESS Eden Court 01463 234234

APRIL
Sun 1st TUNBRIDGE WELLS Assembly Hall 01892 530613
Tues 3rd SHREWSBURY Theatre Severn 01743 281 281

more info available here at Speakers from the Edge

I will also be doing a similar presentation for the Royal Scottish Geographical Society in Aberdeen, Dundee, Stirling and Edinburgh. more info here http://www.rsgs.org/events/

Looking further ahead, 2013 is the 60th anniversary of the first ascent of Everest. It is also the 25th anniversary of the Anglo-American-Canadian expedition Everest 88.

I am celebrating our wonderful Everest adventure by going to the other end of the world. Several people have already committed, but we still have one or two places left on the Everest 60/25 Antarctic Peninsula Expedition in February 2013. Details at:

http://www.stephenvenables.com/expedition_2013_antarctic.asp

The following month, back in London, my American, Canadian and Nepalese companions and I are staging the first reunion for 25 years of the entire Everest 88 team. The main public event will be a champagne reception, lecture and dinner at the RGS. So please make a note in your diary:

14 March 2013

The Party of the Year

Royal Geographical Society

London

With very best wishes for 2012

Stephen"

Return of the Mild

2011-12-21T14:27:00.005Z

Drizzley, Grey and mild.... it feels nore like September than December here at ME HQ today and with emails coming in from our pro partner team that conditions have dropped off a bit it looks like winter maybe back on hold (for now at least!)

We did however see some great winter climbing conditions across the UK over the past few days, so what better than to take a look at some images of the team in action to keep the dreams of the white stuff alive for those of you like us sat in the office waiting for the winter break to arrive.

I've also thrown in a bit of comedy courtesy of Ruth and Lukasz - in the form of Andy T doing his best "Anger" during his studio shoot last week.

For full reports on all the latest action check out our Team Blog opposite -

2 photos above... Andy on a New routing mission in a Secret North Wales location with fellow team member
Baggy pictured in action below

Nick on 1st ascent of Ride the Wild Bullhorn on the Ben p: Dougal Tavener

Jens: New Route SW Poincenot

2011-12-19T09:14:00.001Z

Just had this quick email in from Jens who's currently out in Patagonia, where he and fellow climbers Mike Schaefer and Joel Kauffman have just had an epic 3 days on the South West Face of Poincenot.

Photo: Joel Kauffman collection, check Planet Kauffman in the coming days for more photos and more stories

Jens...

"Hope life is good in the UK and that you are enjoying the holiday season.

Wanted to give you the most current update from down south...warm temperatures have made our ice objectives on the west side of the Torres suicidal at the moment, so we changed focus and chose a wild first ascent objective on the south face of Poincenot, one of the most beautiful big walls in Patagonia.

Two days ago, Joel Kauffman, Mike Schaefer, and I finished our 900 meter first ascent that proved to be one of the most difficult climbs of our lives. I am so grateful to have lived this experience.

Our climb took three days and involved several types of climbing including difficult aid climbing on a wild steep big wall. A malfunctioning stove caused severe dehydration and several other crazy events happened as well. We are all safe, but barely functioning at the moment...trying to come back to life here! Once we have recovered a bit I will send some amazing material your way. We shot video and pictures and have a wild, wild story to tell"

We look forward to hearing more in the coming days!!!

Welcome to the team week... Helena Robinson

2011-12-19T00:17:00.002Z

The final new member we'd like to welcome to our pro partner team is Helena Robinson.

Helena is one of a rare breed of Guernsey climbers. At the age of 14 she began sea level traversing along the island’s south coast, armed with a book of treasure map style topos called ‘Guernsey Coastal Walks and Scrambles’. Illogically, this led to an interest in winter mountaineering which became her passion when she studied at Edinburgh University, and is still her favourite discipline today.

Helena recently spent a year in Switzerland as a climbing nanny, exploring the mountains around the house by ski and by foot, which led her on to compete in her first ultra trail running race.
Helena is currently based in Llanberis, North Wales having just started a PhD in cancer research at Bangor University.

We first got to know Helena after she won herself a place on the Gore Tex Experience tour trip to Norway with Dave MacLeod back in August and were all pleased to have her onboard, and look forward to seeing what she gets up to over this winter season.

You can keep up to date with what Helena's been up too at her blog here

Welcome to the team week... Mark "Baggy" Richards

2011-12-15T16:35:00.001Z

Next we'd like to officially welcome Blue Peris centre manager, AMI and MIC instructor and the Perez Hilton of Welsh Winter Conditions blogging, Mark "Baggy" Richards to the team.

Over to Mark

"For me, finding myself in amazing outdoor places, having a great time sharing adventures with others, feeling good after achieving one’s goals and seeing young people achieve more than they ever imagined is what is so good about the outdoors. Over the years, I have become fully absorbed in the outdoor way of life. Partly because of the personal benefits and meeting new people, but also to give back and share my passion by enthusing and teaching others.

My professional experience
My, teaching, instructing and guiding experience spans 26 years. I was introduced to the outdoors through my secondary school by very enthusiastic teachers. It is that opportunity which has allowed me to gain a career in the outdoors. Originally training as a carpenter, then building site foreman, I started university as a mature student undertaking an outdoor education / science degree at I M Marsh. After working and holding positions in a wide variety of LEA outdoor centres, I gained the post of mountaineering/climbing instructor for 5 years at Plas-y-Brenin (the English National Mountain Centre) I have also worked in the capacity of freelance instructor for a vast array of establishments such as Glenmore Lodge (the Scottish National Mountain Centre), Jagged Globe and a wide range of Local Education Authority centres.
Currently, I manage Blue Peris Mountain Centre, alongside guiding and teaching all over the UK. I am a member of the ‘themic.org’ which identifies the highest standard of climbing and mountain skills instruction in the UK alongside being a member of Association of Mountaineering Instructors. (AMI)

Interests

Well this first has to be Welsh Winter climbing and in particular climbing new and classic routes, being the co-author of the North Wales Winter Climbing. Whilst not winter climbing, then hanging out on sea cliffs, road biking helps keep me fit and gives another opportunity to see the great outdoors and help burn the calories off, as I just love cakes!
I have two young girls, who like fashion more than the outdoors and a house which I have been refurbishing for far too long. Any regrets, not being part of Team Sky (some say as their bike cleaner!)"

If you don't already then make sure you check out 'Baggys blog' for all the latest North Wales winter action here

Welcome to the team week: Mary Harlan

2011-12-14T10:27:00.001Z

Next athlete we'd like to welcome to the team is Mary Harlan

After a career as a professional ballet dancer in New York, St. Louis, and Russia, Mary decided she wanted something different in life. It was then at age 22 she began to pursue a career in mountaineering, rock climbing and ice climbing as a guide. Since then, Mary has climbed and guided in many parts of North America, from Grade V routes on the glaciated peaks of the Pacific Northwest to routes in Red Rocks Conservation Area in Nevada and the high altitude mountains of Alaska.

Mary on a Belly Full of Berries (5.13a)

Mary has a natural gift for offwidth climbing, and in 2008 she was one of the first women to climb the offwidth Belly Full of Bad Berries in Indian Creek, UT (5.13a) and more recently established several new routes across the western United States, including the multi-pitch route Roadhead, Grade IV, 5.10+, in The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

Mary has completed the Rock Discipline courses of the AMGA and is currently pursuing IFMGA certification. Last winter she completed her first ski mountaineering race, and plans to compete in several ski mountaineering races this winter, all while raising her 1 year old son, Samuel.

Were all looking forward to working with Mary and excited to see what she'll get up to this winter.

Welcome to the team week...Mike 'Twid' Turner

2011-12-13T08:58:00.000Z

The next athlete we'd like to officially welcome to the team is Mike 'Twid' Turner.

Twid has worked as a Mountaineering Instructor MIC since 1990 and as an IFMGA Guide since 1993. Twid started his outdoor career working for small centres, management training centres, Local IFMGA Guides from 16 years of age. Instead of becoming a Civil Engineer, which he studied at UMIST in Manchester, he decided to commit his professional working life to the Outdoors. For 15 years Twid worked as a senior instructor and head of rock climbing at Plas y Brenin, The National Mountain Centre. Now as an Independent Guide Twid offers a wide range of Adventures and Training opportunities and has his own business Guiding around the Alps and Expeditions to remote areas. He is as happy coaching beginners as to instructing and Guiding experienced Clients on more challenging climbs.

Twid's personal style of climbing is to push the boundaries as far as he can. If its not a struggle try harder! Whether its on trad routes in the UK, Sports climbing, Big Walls worldwide, Alpine climbing, Mixed climbing and Ice climbing. He has climbed at a high standard for over 25 yrs and is still pushing for that next hardest climb. Through his passion and enthusiasm for the sport he hopes to encourage others to enjoy and explore their personal climbing boundaries!

Were super psyched to have Twid officially on board having worked with him on various projects over the past 3 years. You can check out all the latest from Twid and the guiding/courses he runs at his website here http://www.miketwidturner.com/

Welcome to the team week.... Matt Gerdes

2011-12-12T16:19:00.005Z

This week were introducing 5 new athletes to our Pro Partner Team. First off we'd like to welcome Matt Gerdes.

American born, Matt has completed 20 seasons of full time backcountry skiing, with the past 12 of them in the European Alps. He has nabbed first descents and classic lines in the Alps, Caucasus, Baffin Island, and Alaska. Although not highly competitive by nature, Matt claims to be the undisputed world champion of “Having fun in the mountains” since 1980.

Matt on the Aiguilles Rouge, Chamonix Photo Adam Gorrill

In addition to freeride skiing, Matt is an accomplished speed flyer, speed-wing test pilot, and ski-BASE jumper. He is also widely recognized as one of the world’s leading wingsuit BASE jumpers and is the author of The Great Book of BASE. Matt’s life as a freerider has taken him all over the world but he feels most at home in the Alps, where there is an unparalleled amount of easily-accessed high quality big-mountain terrain. He also loves puppies, long walks on the beach, and is a beginning big wall climber.

Heres one of Matt's breath taking videos from a recent BASE trip to China

You can check out more about Matt and keep up to date with all his latest exploits at his website here www.matttg.com

Dave MacLeod: Sunday Mail

2011-12-08T10:18:00.000Z

Just had this scan in from Dave of a great article from the Sunday Mail newspaper based around the BBC's First Great Climb documentary which aired a few weeks ago.

Click image to enlarge

Jens: Patagonia Update

2011-12-07T10:27:00.002Z

I recieved this email in from Jens in the early hours of this morning with a quick update of what he's been up to down in Patagonia.

"Hope life is well in the UK...just firing you a quick note to let you know that I am here in Patagonia with all the right kit thanks to you and the great folks at ME! So far the weather has been challenging, which has not allowed us to try our main objectives, but never the less we have been giving it our best.

Joel Kauffman and I tried a new route on Pier Giorgio, a large formation that has only seen a few ascents. Rapidly warming temps difficult conditions made for a dangerous outing and we left the route before even really getting started...we were bummed out to say the least, but managed to make due with a repeat of a nice classic route on a beautiful, but smaller formation called Aguja Guillomet. Most importantly, we stayed alive!

Tomorrow we are heading into the Torre Valley to stash the ice gear for the main event. We have about 36 hours of decent weather ahead which we hope to use to get our gear in position. When the real weather window appears we will be ready to strike!

I've attached a photo of a climb up Guillomet to give you an idea of how beautiful the climbing is here! Once again, thanks so much, look for a blog post soon, and take care

Jens"

All Photos: Joel Kauffman collection, check Planet Kauffman in the coming days for more photos and more stories

Plas y Brenin Kit AW11

2011-12-06T13:47:00.006Z

Winter is finally in the air here in the UK which means its time for Plas y Brenin Op's manager Rob Spencer to begin the task of distributing this seasons Mountain Equipment kit delivery to centre staff.

Rob taking a look at the New Concordia Jacket

Mountain Equipment have been working with Plas y Brenin - The National Mountain Centre now for the past 8 years and their team of guides and instructors play a vital role in our continous product testing programme putting many Mountain Equipment styles too the test - in all conditions - 365 days a year.

This Winters Pyb kit list includes:

Shell -
Kamkatcha/ Valdez Jacket
Changabang / Ama Dablam Pant

Insulation -
Citadel Jacket

Softshell -
Astron Hooded/Astral Hooded Jacket
G2 Ultimate Mountain Pant

Thermal -
Concordia/Hispar Jacket
Micro/Orca Jacket
LS Crux/ LS Divinty T

ME Pro partner and Pyb Guide Stu McAleese gets to grips with his kit for the winter season

For more information about Plas y Brenin and the courses they run head to their website here

Nick Bullock: Breaking Out Interview

2011-12-05T17:29:00.000Z

The January 2012 copy of Climber Magazine has just arrived at ME HQ. Make sure you go out and grab a copy, as it features a great interview with ME Pro partner Nick Bullock (words and photos by Ray Wood).

Photo: Ray Wood

Andy Turner at Manchester Climbing Centre

2011-12-02T09:17:00.001Z

Andy Turner spent half the day early this week slapping up a vast number of holds onto the bouldering wall at Manchester Climbing Centre.

Andy.....

"The first thing they are going to be used for is some dry-tooling sessions with the boys from Manchester Grammar School. But then I'm hoping to get some hours in on my own tools climbing around in circles and remembering what exactly I'm supposed to do with them. So far I've been lucky enough that winter has not arrived but I think I ought to start putting some tool time in, instead of just training and climbing."

You can check out more details/photos at Andy's blog here

and check out all the latest from the Manchester Climbing Centre here

The Long Hope: Trailer

2011-11-28T09:09:00.000Z

St John's head on the Island of Hoy is a wild and remote 1150 foot sea cliff. It was first climbed in 1970 by climber and poet Ed Drummond together with Oliver Hill. They took 7 days to climb the cliff, sleeping on ledges and in hammocks along the way. Now, 40 years later, Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner set out to climb the cliff in a single day, finishing with a new desperately hard final pitch up the headwall.

This historic new climb, The Longhope Route Direct (E11), is captured close-up with the latest HD cameras and contrasted with the challenges of Drummond and Hills first ascent through interviews and archive material. The film also follows Drummond, now in his late sixties and suffering from Parkinson's disease, as he makes a pilgrimage back to St John's Head to look upon the route one last time.

The Long Hope is available on DVD or via HD download at the Hot aches website here

Ben Saunders: Interview

2011-11-26T00:07:00.001Z

Check out the latest issue of Magnificent Man Magazine featuring an interview with Ben on his plans for his next South Pole expedition here

Kaspersky ONE Trans-Antarctic Expedition

2011-11-23T17:18:00.001Z

Mountain Equipment are pleased to announce our support of Felicity Aston and her record breaking Antarctic Solo attempt.

The Expedition

The Kaspersky ONE Trans-Antarctic Expedition is a landmark solo expedition and a world first. British explorer, Felicity Aston (33), will embark on a 1700km, 65-day ski journey in order to become the first woman in the world to cross the Antarctic alone. By completing the journey Felicity will also be the first British woman to traverse Antarctica. However, this journey is about more than records. The expedition aims to instil a spirit of adventure, aspiration and innovation as well as understand more about what motivates individuals to achieve.

Felicity will fly into Antarctica from Punta Arenas, Chile and spend a few days at the base camp operated by Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE). ALE will provide all safety and communication cover during the expedition. She will then be flown to the Ross Ice Shelf at the foot of the Leverett Glacier from where she will start her journey. Skiing up the Leverett Glacier, through the Transantarctic mountains she will climb onto the Polar Plateau and head for the South Pole. After collecting a resupply of food and fuel at the Pole, Felicity will continue across the Polar Plateau to the coast of Antarctica at the edge of the Ronne Ice Shelf. Arriving at Hercules Inlet, Felicity will have traversed the entire Antarctic continent.

Heres a short video with more details about Felicity and her expedition.

Felicity arrived at Union Glacier base camp after a 10 day delay due to bad weather last weekend, you can track her latest location at the expedition website here

Early season trip to Cervinia

2011-11-22T17:08:00.002Z

Our friends at Whitedot Skis - Jess Whiskin and Mark Perkins emailed this short report over from their early season "warm up" trip to Cervina, Itailan Alps.

"It’s still pretty early in the season to expect to access any decent snow for skiing in Europe but after a damp summer and a balmy autumn in the Chamonix valley, we were all too ready to shake out the legs and take our new skis for a spin. A weekend jaunt to Cervinia in the Italian Alps was an unexpected revelation and all the more of a bonus to get on skis this early in November.

We drove from Chamonix on the French side of the Month Blanc tunnel, where the mountains are still looking distinctly autumnal and snow free for this time of year. Bowling down the motorway through the Aosta valley on empty roads in bright sunshine, it felt like Spring but winding up the hairpins on the approach to Cervinia, it was immediately clear we were in for a spectacular day.

Following heavy storms in the Gulf of Turin which lasted pretty much all of last week, the high slopes in Cerviniaopened this weekendto a bucket load of fresh snow and bright blue skies. There were even a few powder turns to be had off the sides of the pistes on Saturday. Temperatures were balmy with hardly any windchill and not a cloud in the sky allowing great views over the Gran Paradiso mountain range, emerging out of the cloud forest.

Cervinia opens earlier than most other resorts simply because of its altitude at 2030m, with the highest area of the resort on glacial terrain and backing on to Zermatt (also now partially open.) There were lots of race teams in town, gearing up for winter by carving impossibly sharp lines on the piste in top to toe lycra.

The great thing about skiing in Italy too is that the Italians tend to settle down to a long lunch in the afternoon, basking in the sunshine for the rest of the afternoon on deck chairs, leaving us to zoom around on practically empty pistes. So that’s the legs warmed up for the season 2011/12 and now thoroughly in the mood for a long, cold winter. "

Jess and Mark

More info available here at whitedotskis.com

Friday Night: Kendal Mountain Festival

2011-11-19T09:49:00.003Z

Great night at the KMF last night... I'm sure a few people are feeling the effects of it this morning.

L to R - Andy Turner, Dave MacLoed, Paul Diffley, Ed Drummond, and Oliver Hill

photo - henryiddon.com

The Long Hope went down a storm at its premiere, Paul Diffley and his team have done an amazing job definitely a must watch!. It was also great to see Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in

attendance too

Ed Drummond takes to the stage

Then the ME pub quiz...

Andy Kirkpatrick gets the quiz underway

Big thanks to everyone that took part in the ME Pub quiz, we had an amazing night, the list of captains read like a "who's who" of climbing Dave MacLeod, John Dunne, Stephen Venables, Lynn Hill, Leo Holding, Twid Turner, Jerry Gore, Nick Bullock, Cory Richards, Denis Urubko, James Pearson, Faveresse brothers, Sean Villaneuva-O'Driscol, Andy Cave, Simone Moro, Andy Turner, Brian Davison, Brian Hall all brought under some mild form of control by quiz master Andy Kirkpatrick.

packed Malt Room for the quiz

Big thanks to Mick Ryan from UKC for putting together the questions and Clive Allen and the Kendal team for hosting the event. I should also mention that Andy Turners team won, so well done to them. Now time for some films and rest before tonights party.

Nick Bullock - Must get... fitter, stronger, better lecture dates

2011-11-10T08:50:00.000Z

Fancy checking out Nick Bullock's latest lecture? - Must get... fitter, stronger, better well why not head to one of the following dates in the next 2 weeks.

Were pleased to announce that Nick will be lecturing at the Mountain Equipment Store, Deansgate, Manchester on Thursday 17th November'11 at 7pm. To register for this event head over to the ME Stores Facebook page here

Nick will then also be lecturing at Kendal Mountain Festival on Sunday 20th November'11 at 2pm at the Box, more information available here

Dave MacLeod - Stokes Croft 7c+ Video

2011-11-09T21:25:00.000Z

Heres a short clip of Dave on Stokes Croft 7C+ , Glen Torridon earlier this week

Check out Dave's full write at his blog here

Jens Holsten Lecture: A life in the Vertical World

2011-11-03T17:50:00.006Z

Were please to announce that ME Pro partner Jens Holsten will be lecturing at Redmond Vertical World, Redmond, WA at 4pm on Saturday 12th November'12.

Jens...

"As climbers and humans, we never know when our journey will end. Of course, it is impossible to see the future with all it's unimaginable twists and turns. We wake up each day and take the next step.

Although times to come are hard to predict, the roots of personal evolution can be looked back upon and added up to reach a sum of who we are today. Fifteen years agon I stepped into the Redmond Vertical World for my first time. That junior high after school activity sparked a passion that still drives my life to this day. Since that time I have worked extensively with The Vertical World as an instructor and route setter. Although the last six years have seen me squishing grapes for money, I am excited to head back to the Redmond VW for a slideshow presentation on November 12th. All the adventures I've had so far in this life blossomed from the skills, friendship, and work ethic instilled in me during those dusty days slapping plastic. I am excited to share photos and stories from my journey as a climber that continues on and on, and on..."

If your in the Redmond, Washington state area make sure you come along and check Jens lecture out

More information available at Redmond Vertical World

Himachal Pioneer expedition 2011

2011-10-31T09:26:00.000Z

ME Pro partner and Mountain Guide Martin Moran has just returned from his latest expedition to the Himachal, Indian Himalaya. Check out Martins full report below...

Martin on a windy morning at the 5500m pass of Poat La

"These days it is easy to imagine that there is no exploratory challenge left in the world’s mountains. Our trip to the remotest peaks of Himachal in the Indian Himalaya in Autumn 2011 proved otherwise. We found hundreds of square miles of untouched mountain country, completely empty of people with scores of magnificent unclimbed 6000m peaks to savour. Our team of 9 climbers and 4 Indian support staff successfully completed a circuit of three difficult 5000 metre passes on the borders between Lahaul, Zanskar and Kishtwar regions, surveyed the wealth of technical peaks in this area and climbed a beautiful virgin 6000er on the way. The journey over the Kang La (5450m), Poat La (5490m) and Sersank La (5130m) was 150km in distance with 6300m of ascent and took 18 days.

After journeying from Delhi to Manali and over the Rohtang Pass by train and minibus, our trek commenced at the provincial town of Udaipur at 2640m in the Chandra Bhaga valley. For five days and 85km we followed the Miyar valley to the Kang La - at first through cultivations and villages, then by open grasslands and alluvial flats, and finally by 26km of rough glacier. We used 20 low-level porters to get our food and kit to 5000m glacier. Hereafter, we were entirely on our own with big loads for 12 days in empty lands where to carry unnecessary equipment could critically slow progress, but to forget something vital would be catastrophic!

Throughout the trip we were blessed with wonderful clear and settled weather. Snow conditions were generally excellent, with a foot of monsoon snow sticking to the glaciers above 5000m. The Kang La is a fairly benign pass in slope angles, but one member soon discovered hidden dangers when he found himself hanging 5 metres down a crevasse slot. We extricated him with a pulley hoist. Beyond Kang La we looked into the arid ranges of Zanskar, but immediately my eye was caught by a shapely snow peak 10km distant. While we recovered at a camp at 4425m in the Tidu valley we pondered our escape option if anything went wrong - a 25km northward trek to Padum village, 300km jeep drive by Kargil to Leh in Ladakh and a flight back to Delhi. As we were operating in the ankle-snapping territory of stone-clad ice moraine it was a sobering prospect. However, the lure of the "snow queen" that we had spotted proved too strong to resist.

We made a bivouac at 5060m under the peak, and dawn found us high on the south face. Some pitched ice climbing took us over an ice serac, then we side-footed up endless slopes to a final bergschrund and short ice slope leading to the summit ridge. After a 10 hour climb from our bivouac we teetered along the corniced crest at 11.15am. On all horizons were an array of unnamed, unknown peaks, many of them over 6000m and most of them of spectacular dimensions. We named our own peak Eva's Peak in honour of one of member’s baby daughter and established its height as 6119m (20,075ft).

We now moved camp to the glacier under the Poat La, our second pass. Our schedule was tight – there were no spare days and the nearest village and road was over 50km away. The team crossed this splendid 5500m pass with loads of well over 20kg and descended the Zanskar-Kanthang Glacier amidst an impressive array of virgin peaks and rock walls. Progress ground to a halt in the ocean of live moraines that covered the lower glacier. Having carried huge loads all day we were all getting exhausted and a little fractious. Yet, so tight was our onward schedule that we had to keep pushing until nightfall. We bivouacked in the open on the moraine but our amazing staff soon had a "dahlbhat" cooked up. A new moon rose as we settled on to our gravel beds and all seemed well with the world again. We now had just four days to get over the last pass, Sersank La. All we knew about the pass was that it harboured a formidable icefall and had repelled an Indian team five years earlier. If we couldn't get over it our only option was to pioneer an alpine route over 5500m peaks on the southern rim of the Darlang valley. Any margin of error and we'd be missing our flights home!

Steep ground on the first ascent of Eva’s Peak (6119m)

Next morning, my deputy leader Robin Thomas and I left soon after dawn to forge a route over the ZK Glacier and recce approaches to the Sersank. We climbed into the Sersank valley and beheld a crumbling icefall that was patently impossible to scale, unless possessed of suicidal inclinations. However, there was a line of ramps crossing the mountain wall on its right side that might outflank the ice cliffs. We put all our money on this line and at dawn next day set off on a vital scouting mission. We threaded a line up shale screes and rocky bluffs, followed the ramp high above the icefall. We then weaved round crevasses above the first icefall and made a frontal attack on a second icefall. After a couple of ice pitches threaded our ropes through a criss-crossed crevasse field to arrive below the pass. Our escape was assured and next day the whole team moved up to a high camp at 4850m under the mighty north wall of 6000m Shiv Shankar.

At 10am on the 6th we surmounted a slope of vertical shale to gain the Sersank pass at 5130m and looked down the gentle wooded folds of the Sural valley. After a last day back-packing 20kg loads we reached the village and roadhead of Khangsar, to meet the first people we had seen since leaving our porters under the Kang La. Clouds had now gathered, and after 22 days of dry sub-zero weather we put on our shell jackets for the first time as we loaded the jeeps for the long drive home.

As a self-supporting pioneering venture we had achieved a memorable result, and the outcome was in doubt until the last two days. No party is known to have made the circuit of these three passes in recent times and Eva's Peak was a notable first ascent - a beautiful 20,000' mountain, discovered, admired then climbed - all within five days. Mountaineering doesn't get better than that!

Martin in the remote Darlang valley of Kishtwar region

Our equipment played a vital role in our success. My Mountain Equipment Dragonfly Tent offered generous space for two and a large porch area. We could pitch it on any ground from glacier ice to gravel moraines, and with inner and fly connected it was simple to erect. Dimensions of the door and porch are designed perfectly so that we could swing feet into boots and step outside without having to kneel on the ground and one of us could crouch comfortably in the porch to mind the stoves when cooking.

My ME Citadel Jacket gave superb warmth and wind resistance. With night temperatures below -10degC it was a huge comfort to get into the jacket and stay snug through protracted packing and cooking operations. In bitter winds on Poat La and severe cold during the ascent of Eva’s Peak I felt warm throughout, especially with the hood up, yet never overheated. When my energy became depleted and the body started to consume fat and muscle later in the trip the jacket was a particular friend, ensuring survival and pleasurable appreciation of every incredible situation in which we found ourselves in this amazing country."

MARTIN

Wearing the same

2011-10-28T19:34:00.000+01:00

Once... Okay its a one off

Twice... should have checked

Third time... we need to talk

DE: Peter Habeler "My way to the Summit"

2011-10-25T21:20:00.001+01:00

Mountain Equipment and Globetrotter Munich proudly present:

PETER HABELER "My way to the summit"

which takes place 29.11.2011 at CineMAXX, next to the Globetrotter store, Munich.

Please find below the details in German...

Präsentiert von Mountain Equipment und Globetrotter Ausrüstung

Ein außergewöhnlicher Lebensweg führte Peter Habeler von den heimatlichen Zillertaler Alpen über die schwierigsten Wände der Alpen zu den höchsten Gipfeln der Welt. Er gehörte bald zu den bekanntesten Bergsteigern im Alpenraum.

Im Jahre 1978 wurde er weltbekannt, als ihm gemeinsam mit Reinhold Messner die erste Besteigung des Mount Everest ohne zusätzlichen Sauerstoff gelang. Weitere erfolgreiche Achttausender-Expeditionen zum Nanga Parbat, Cho Oyu und Kangchendzönga folgten.

Schon zuvor machte sich Habeler mit frühen und unglaublich schnellen Wiederholungen extremer Routen einen Namen. Die Eiger-Nordwand und der Freney-Pfeiler am Mont Blanc gehören zu diesen Touren. Als erstem Europäer gelang ihm die Begehung der Salathé-Route am El Capitan im Yosemite Valley.

In seinem Vortrag „Das Ziel ist der Gipfel“ berichtet er von seinen großen Bergerlebnissen und Grenzerfahrungen, von Triumphen und Niederlagen. Und warum es ihn immer noch, immer wieder gipfelwärts zieht...

Der Vortrag ist exklusiv zu sehen bei Globetrotter München am Isartorplatz.

Kartenverkauf an den Kassen im Erdgeschoss

Ort: CinemaxX, Isartorplatz 8 | Passageneingang | Saal: siehe Eintrittskarte

Datum: Dienstag, 29. November 2011

Beginn: 19 Uhr

VVK: € 12.- / Abendkasse: € 15.-

Macht mit beim Gewinnspiel zu diesem Event!
Wir verlosen 5 x 1 Freikarte für den Vortrag.

Um teilzunehmen, beantwortet uns einfach folgende Frage: Wann hat Peter Habeler Geburtstag?

Schreibt das Datum in eine Mail, mit dem Betreff Peter Habeler, an gewinnspiel@invia.de.

Einsendeschluss ist der 31. Oktober 2011.

Snakes and Ladders

2011-10-24T13:23:00.012+01:00

'Death Bridge' in the Llanberis slate quarries..... Just say no.

My fascination with the slate quarries of the Lakes and North Wales hasn’t always been matched by my climbing bravery. A phase of seeking out Lakeland industrial esoterica foundered on the mighty Titanic Arete in Moss Rigg. The guidebook description had been alluring:

‘50m E3 – An unsinkable experience up the arête. The first pitch contains little solid rock or protection, but the upper rib is in an eye catching position…. Wires, helmets and lifeboats should be taken.’

From the rim of the quarry the line hadn’t disappointed and Mike, Jim and I duly found ourselves at the belay halfway up the mighty arête. With just off vertical tottering rubble below and unnerving blankness above this seemed like a good time for Mike to prove his often asserted rock mastery, even if it had all been my idea. As Mike reached for the sanctuary of the top it seemed that this particular misadventure would have a happy ending until, in cartoon slow motion, he began to plummet fully 30 metres head first down the crag. He disappeared with a strangled scream down the far side of the arête still clutching the finishing flake that had, until so recently, offered salvation.

The first of the ladders, scary until you saw what came next!

More ladders....

‘Snakes and Ladders’ in the Llanberis slate quarries seemed to offer the opportunity for similar exploration with slightly less mortal danger. Confronted by a wet forecast in every direction Andy, Sam, Martin and I, all from ME, decided to go and ‘have a look’. Most of us had climbed in the quarries in some shape or form but rarely beyond the accessible classics on everyone’s ticklist. This trip, one of several that promises to take you into the depths of Hades, California, Mordor and the Lost World is graded a mysterious HVS in an attempt to hint that it may be a little more involved than climbing some ladders and chains. And so it turned out to be.

Andy realises what's holding it all up.

I’ll spare you the blow by blow account as half the fun is the discovery of what, if anything, each ladder or chain is attached to as well as finding the well hidden 'Tunnel of Love'. I hesitate to recommend this to anyone as one day, probably in the not too distant future, something will fall down with someone on it with terminal consequences. If however you’re prepared to make your own decisions about the shockingly corroded metal work, hideous looseness, levitating ladders and life threatening drops there are few more impressive man made landscapes anywhere in the UK.

The start of the abseils into the 'Lost World'.

Autumn Hill Training at PYB: Week 2

2011-10-24T11:37:00.009+01:00

ME's Martin Dixon preparing himself for another 80+mph gust

Last week saw our final two training courses for ME retailers based at Plas Y Brenin in North Wales and conditions were perfect for testing kit. Normally our idea of good weather is the same as everybody elses but occasionally we're pleased to see a forecast for gale force winds, heavy rain, hail and low temperatures! Monday saw us battling all of the above on a Cwm Idwal scramble before a truly wild and deliberately sought experience on the tops. Things deteriorated exactly as suggested by MWIS and the BBC and it wasn't long before simply staying upright was a challenge. After a good fight around the side of Y Garn we made it back into the relative shelter of Cwm Idwal where people were enthusiastically talking about hood design and jacket fit. These are the conditions we design for and it's always good when shop staff can experience our kit 'first hand'. Happily ME Pro Partner Nick Bullock, who was out for the day with us, was unperturbed..... it was after all like a pretty standard day out in Scottish winter!

Martin having been hit by the wind, Llyn Idwal looked like it had exploded briefly!

Battling wild conditions in Ogwen.... and appreciating ME hoods!

Nick gave a packed PYB lecture room a preview of his new Kendal Mountain Film Festival show in the evening. Fantastic pictures and video segments from the last year or so left us all pretty inspired and me thinking that I should probably fall off more often, gigantic lobs seem to be the Bullock key to rock climbing greatness! Tuesday saw us joined by PYB's ever excellent staff and there were a variety of options from multi-pitch climbing to scrambling and navigation on offer as well as rumours of dry rock at Tremadog.

The second course started on Thursday and saw the hills turn decidedly wintery. We headed up a damp and chilly Bristly Ridge before a quick lunch stop that was only comfortable with an array of Fitzroy and Alpamayo Jackets thrown on over our layers. A quick descent of the Gribin ridge soon saw us warmed up and back to base for tea and a lot of technical kit chat aided by our design team who'd escaped the office for a couple of days of prototype testing. Friday was wet but there were still plenty of adventures on Tryfan and the Idwal slabs with more involvement from the PYB staff. The remaining ME staff, myself included, had hoped to go climbing but a damp forecast in all directions saw us heading for an 'exciting' trip through the Llanberis slate quarries..... so exciting it deserves it's own blog post I think!

Preparing for battle in a sheltered spot, the weather coming from behind us didn't look good!

Thanks to all the shop staff, owners and buyers who came along over the two weeks as well as to PYB for their ever brilliant help. There were some fantastic efforts from relative outdoor novices who threw themselves into scrambling and climbing with impressive enthusiasm. As ever the opportunity for people to get out in our kit in a variety of weather, as well as learning some new personal skills, will hopefully mean that the shops customers will get the best advice possible.

Dave MacLeod Lectures: This week

2011-10-24T09:45:00.000+01:00

ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod is on the road all this week lecturing. Check out the below information from Dave on where hes going to be and how you can be there...

Photo: Paul Diffley - hotaches.com

"All of next week I’m travelling around doing talks each evening in a different part of the UK. Maybe I’ll see some of you?! Mostly I’ll be talking about the importance of taking on massive projects like the Long Hope route on Orkney. Big projects like that and a few other hard climbs I’ll show you involve a lot of doubt - you just don’t know if you’ve got enough to finally do them (unless they are too easy!). Dealing with that doubt is a big psychological challenge. My experience has been that there’s more than one successful mindset to adopt. I‘ll explain more at the talks.

First up, I’m going round Scotland, speaking at various Tiso stores on a Mountain Equipment tour. Details and tickets are here, but the dates are:

Monday 24th Inverness - Tiso Outdoor experience 7.30pm

Tuesday 25th Aberdeen - Tiso 7.30pm

Wednesday 26th Perth - Tiso Outdoor experience 7.30pm

Thursday 27th Glasgow - Tiso GOE 7.30pm

Friday 28th Edinburgh - Tiso Outdoor experience 7.30pm

On Saturday I’m speaking twice at the SAFOS seminar on decision making in avalanche terrain at EICA Ratho. First up I’m speaking about my approaches and ideas to managing risk in my trad climbing. I’ll discuss some of the times I’ve nearly killed myself climbing, and what I did wrong, and some of the times I climbed really dangerous routes safely, like The Indian Face. Details of this here - There are some great speakers lined up on risk and decision making.

On Sunday I’m at Dart Rock near Exeter doing coaching clinics (Sunday and Monday) and on Sunday evening I’m speaking there.

See you out there!

Dave"

Brittle Bone Coast MXS

2011-10-21T14:40:00.000+01:00

Professional Mountain instructor and AMI member Dave Talbot has just dropped me a line having just completed some filming work with the BBC's Coast programme. Dave took Coast presenter Andy Torbet out on a new routing trip on chalk faces of the Needles, Isle of Wright during the freak Indian summer 2 weeks ago.

Dave and Andy on Brittle Bone Coast MXS

Dave and Andy managed to bag the first ascent of a new chalk route on the second fin, - “Brittle Bone Coast” MXS.

Dave on the South Face of the 2nd Fin

Dave and Andy

You can read the full story and checkout more photos over at Dave's website - davetalbot.net

The next series of Coast will air Spring 2012.

SAIS Kit 2011/12

2011-10-20T09:11:00.002+01:00

ME Tech Rep Andy Green called by Scottish Avanlanche Information Service HQ at Glenmore Lodge last week to hand over this seasons uniform to Mark Diggins (Director SAIS) and his team.

Mark Diggins and Andy Green with some of this seasons kit

Mark and his team offer a invaluable service to anyone heading out to climb, walk, ski etc... in Scotland during the winter season, they are also part of our extensive product test team and put our kit through its paces everyday during the winter season and provide us with indepth feedback as part of our constant product R&D.

This seasons kit list includes:

Kamchatka Jacket
Changabang Pant
Concordia Jacket
Trojan Jacket - New GORE TEX SOFTSHELL test product for release in 2012
Colouir Gloves

Heres some more general info about the SAIS -

Avalanche hazard considerations should always be part of any winter hill goers daily plans. Whether you are a climber, walker or off-piste skier venturing into the hills, you should always continue to note snow and weather conditions in respect to any potential avalanche hazard.

SAIS is funded by the Scottish Sports Council and publish the daily forecasts of the avalanche, snow, and climbing conditions at 5 key climbing areas of Scotland during the season.

For more information and latest reports go to www.sais.gov.uk

Jellyfish Paranoia

2011-10-19T21:46:00.001+01:00

I never thought I would get on with DWS very well. I like climbing and I like swimming but the thought of falling off a grassy and loose sea cliff top out into ledge-infested water had never appealed. And I suffer from severe jellyfish paranoia.

Tom Bunn on Rainbow Bridge

However, I had never been to Berry Head before and turning up there on possibly the most glorious day of the summer was temptation enough. The Rainbow bridge section of the crag is so perfect it is as if it has been designed for the sport. Low, solid limestone cliffs into deep, calm and ledgeless water. Me and my two new friends – Tom and Alex (who we met in the car park), also totally new to dws, thoroughly enjoyed the first bit of Rainbow Bridge. Then we took a long and chilly swim back to the start after an unintentional pop at the 7b+ Barrel traverse!

Alex Waterhouse at the mouth of the Old Redoubt cave

After lunch and some warming star jumps we set off on the Magical Mystery Tour which starts through the highly impressive cave at the bottom of Moonraker. This is technically easier than Rainbow Bridge but requires a bit more attention to avoid the ledges and was probably made extra interesting by the ultra low spring tide. Sophie had somehow recruited a fisherman and his boat to our party and convinced him to give her lifts between all the different areas, he seemed quite excited by the whole thing and enthusiastically followed us round, shouting useless beta when anyone seemed in trouble.

Sophie Whyte keeping her shoes and chalk bag dry

It was all over far too soon and with the winter fast approaching I won’t get another chance this year. But I will definitely be back next summer to face the imaginary jellyfish again.

Helena.

ME Heritage Adverts pt 1

2011-10-13T17:01:00.002+01:00

A few weeks back me and Richard W (ME Marketing manager) spent the morning trawling through the magazine archive at the BMC, hunting out and scanning old ME Ad's from the 60's, 70's and 80's. Below is a small selection what we found and I'll be posting more over the coming weeks as part of our 50th celebrations.

Thanks to Dave Turnbull and the team at the BMC for allowing us access to some amazing material.

Thomas Tivadar : Great Trango Tower Lecture

2011-10-12T17:39:00.001+01:00

Munich based ME Pro partner Thomas Tivadar will be lecturing next week - on Tuesday 18th October at retailer Bergsport-Hütte, Augsburg, Germany. Thomas will be presenting his talk about the first ascent of the Northwest Face of the Great Trango Tower, Karakorum back in 1999.

Thomas Tivadar

For those who are interested in attending, please find below the details in German...

Vortrag Thomas Tivadar - Bigwall-Spezialist, Techno-Climber

Great Trango Tower - NW | Erstbegehung Lost Butterfly (1999)

Partner Bergsporthütte Augsburg

Termin 18. Oktober 2011 / 19 Uhr / Abendkasse

Ort Barbara-Saal, Am Katzenstadl 18a, 86152 Augsburg

1999 | Great Trango Tower
Route: Lost Butterfly (VII 5.10 A4) | Gabor Berecz, Oskar Nadaski, Thomas Tivadar

Ende der 90 Jahre war der Great Trango Tower (6287m) Schauplatz für die zu der Zeit schwierigste Route der Welt: „Lost Butterfly“. Bei widrigsten Bedingungen kämpften sich die drei Alpinisten durch die 2000 Meter hohe Nordwest- wand. Die untere Hälfte der Wand ist senkrecht bis leicht geneigt - der Schwierigkeitsgrad ist VII, A3.

Durch die obere Wandhälfte, die auf rund 1000 Metern durchgehend überhängend ist, arbeiteten sich Berecz, Nadaski und Tivadar in diffiziler New-Wave-Kletterei in Richtung Gipfel. Die Bewertung der Wand reicht hier bis A4+.

Das ganze Unternehmen bewältigte das Team übrigens ganz ohne Bohrhaken als Zwischensicherung!

Das Wetter war in diesen Tagen extrem schlecht... doch die drei konnten die ungünstigen Bedingungen an der überhängenden Wand tatsächlich ignorieren, während andere Expeditionen an Nachbarbergen in der Region Ihre Touren abbrechen mussten, bzw. erst gar nicht über das Advanced Basecamp hinauskamen.

Trango Expedition 1999

In der oberen Wandhälfte biwakierten die drei - natürlich in Portaledges - 25 Tage am Stück. Die komplette Verpflegung und auch das Trinkwasser musste das Team in Packsäcken und Tonnen transportieren - Frischwasser gab es in der Route nicht. Allerdings waren die Temperaturen so eisig, dass Ihre Vorräte regelmäßig einfroren. Um Gas zu sparen und dennoch nach einer Nacht in der Senkrechten Wasser für den täglichen Bedarf zu haben, gab es nur eine Möglichkeit: abwechselnd teilte sich einer der Männer seinen warmen Schlafsack mit einem tiefgefrorenen Packsack und dem Eisblock darin...

In einmaliger und unverwechselbarer Art berichtet Thomas Tivadar in seinem Vortrag von dieser Expedition.
Nur bedingt zur Nachahmung empfohlen!

In conversation with... Katie L'Herpiniere

2011-10-07T10:34:00.001+01:00

The final video from our In conversation with... series featuring ME Pro partner and adventurer Katie L'Herpiniere

you can keep up to date with what Katie and her partner Tarka have been up to over at their site here

Jens Holsten: Kit review

2011-10-06T11:53:00.000+01:00

ME Pro partner "newbie" Jens Holsten has just posted a short review of some of the bits of ME kit he's been using on his ventures during the past few months.

Head over to his blog to check out the full post and what he's been getting up too here

Off to the EMMF

2011-10-06T09:49:00.000+01:00

The cars packed... so I'm off North to Edinburgh for the Edinburgh Mountain Film festival which gets underway at Ratho tonight! with friend of the brand and professional photographer Lukasz Warzecha. I'll see you there!

For programme and ticket information head to the EMMF site here

Getting Blown around on Mountain Skills Training

2011-10-05T15:48:00.006+01:00

We are back at Plas y Brenin for our annual Autumn mountain skills training courses.

Rich B (ME Product Marketing) giving a gear seminar, with a fantastic view

The forecast said high winds from the south west so Tryfan was suggested as an ideal objective as it would be sheltered and the plateau of the Glyders could be avoided. With this in mind we pulled up in the parking bays opposite the spiky ridge line of Tryfan and decided to scrap the original objective and head for the east ridge Y Garn. The east ridge of Y Garn was nicely sheltered with some pleasant scrambling giving great views back down the down the Ogwen valley when the clouds parted.

After a quick lunch number 1 (I always like at least 2 lunches in a mountain day) the group split, with Martin and myself opting for the super direct finish to the ridgeline. The ridge was nicely exposed with an airy feel and a great view back along into Ogwen.

Martin (ME North UK & Ireland Sales Rep.) upset because of a lack of jamming cracks.

We caught the rest of the group sheltering on the plateau from some strong winds having a chat about the merits of softshell. From Y Garn we got on with the walking, gently leaning into the wind brought us to the summit of Glyder Fach. From here it was a dash to get onto the Gribin ridge and off the plateau.

The forecast for tomorrow is looking good! MWIS are saying snow on the tops and lightening, I'm looking forward to unveiling my lime green Changabang pants.

Al Humphreys at the EMMF

2011-10-05T09:29:00.001+01:00

Friend of the brand and adventurer extraordinaire Al Humphreys will be lecturing this Sunday at 2pm during the "Adventure Session" at the EMMF, tickets available here

Round the world by bike: Alastair’s quest for adventure began young. Aged 8, he completed the 26 mile Yorkshire 3 Peaks challenge and at 14 he cycled off-road across England. Longer distance cycles while at university led up to a round the world trip of epic new proportions.

In a journey which Sir Ranulph Feinnes described as ‘The first great adventure of the 21st Century’, Alastair rode from England to South Africa, crossed the Atlantic by yacht and then cycled from Patagonia to Alaska. Crossing the Pacific by freighter, Alastair completed his expedition by cycling back to England from eastern Siberia.

Heres a short film taken from Al's latest project "A year of Microadventure" which you can read more about at Al's site

Andy Turner at The EMMF

2011-10-04T08:50:00.000+01:00

Make sure you get down to Edinburgh Mountain Film festival this Saturday and check out ME Pro partner Andy Turner's awesome lecture "Living for Winter" at the George Square lecture theatre from 2pm as part of the "Climbing Session" tickets available here

Andy on the trek into the Longhope, St.Johns Head, Hoy Photo: Lukasz Warzecha

Living for Winter: Andy Turner didn't start climbing until he was 25. Growing up just outside Manchester, he had been a competitive road cyclist for years when he turned to climbing.

Despite being a relative latecomer to the sport, Andy quickly realised that winter climbing was where his talents lay. He is now best known for pushing the limits of onsight Scottish winter climbing including new routes such as The Secret (IX,9) on Ben Nevis and the first winter ascent of Sassenach (IX,9) also on Ben Nevis.

Andy at work New Routing in Lofoten, Norway Photo: Nick Bullock

Last winter (2010/11) he set about the task of repeating the hardest routes in Scotland with the second ascents of both The Hurting (XI,11) and Catherdral (X,11). He also managed to fit in some new routing on the Lofoten Islands in Norway.

Andy's lecture will reflect on the epic winters of recent years and look ahead to his plans for the months ahead.

You can keep up to date with all the latest from Andy at his blog here

Lukasz Warzecha at the EMMF

2011-10-03T15:05:00.000+01:00

In the Edinburgh area this Thursday night?... YES... Then why not head over to RATHO and check out friend of the brand and professional photographer Lukasz Warzecha, who will be getting the 2011 Edinburgh Mountain Film festival underway.

Lukasz while shooting Andy, Nick and Pete in Lofoten

Lukasz's lecture "Life as a Pro" starts at 8pm in the Murray theatre, Ratho. Tickets are available here

Life as a Pro: Lukasz is the bright new star of outdoor adventure photography, with his work being published around the world. Already known for his radical approach, he's been shooting 'anything climbing' - from winter in Lofoten in gnarly conditions, Ice Climbing World Cups to portraits of Reinhold Messner at the London's Royal Geographical Society.

This is your chance to find out what it's really like to have the "Life of a Pro". Is it all about glamour and jet setting around the world?? No doubt Lukasz will be setting the story straight, illustrating his tales with his amazing images and films.

www.lwimages.co.uk

Photo: LWimages

Autumn Photography work shop: Report

2011-10-03T14:43:00.000+01:00

Friend of the brand Lukasz Warzecha just sent over this report from his Autumn photography work shop which took place last weekend in North Wales.

"It was winter of 2005 when I got a chance to shoot some images with Dave Macleod for the first time… My photography knowledge back then was seriously limited but I remember how excited I was to snap away while Dave was making his way up the ‘Fast and furious‘ in Birnam Quarry. I think I shot entire! 2 rolls of gritty ISO1600 B&W film… 72 frames doesn’t sound exciting enough these days! ;-)
6 years later I found myself teaching climbing photography and 6 of my students (or maybe 5!) could feel this buzz! It was a very special weekend. It meant to be both informative and inspirational and I think it was exactly that.

‘Loved the entire course. All the photoshoots were excellent and the fact that we got to shoot with Dave was unbelievable.’

Have a look at some of my favourite images shot by the students over the weekend."

Photo Richard Enticknap

Photo Hamish Rose

Photo Richard Enticknap

Photo Paul Diffley

You can view more images from the weekend over at Lukasz blog here

In conversation with... Dave MacLeod

2011-10-03T11:19:00.000+01:00

Check out the latest from our In conversation with... series featuring ME Pro Partner Dave MacLeod

Enjoying the weather

2011-09-30T21:19:00.001+01:00

On my drive home from the office, there is a little outcrop on the ridge line above the Don valley. This teases me every time I drive down the opposite side of the valley. So today how could I resist!

I had to pick my way through brambles and gorse bushes in my sandals but after one false start I had a very enjoyable session in the sunshine. I even got my phone to cooperate on self timer for a photo.

I hope everyones out enjoying the weather before we start thinking of snow and ice!

Andy

One week to the EMMF

2011-09-30T15:38:00.000+01:00

Turner, Humpherys, Destivelle, Dawes, Warzecha and Hollekim are just a few names you can check out at this years Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival, which kicks off in a weeks time.

Head to EMMF site here for tickets and programme details and we'll see you there!

Heres a taster to wet your appetites

A Quick Trip to Pembroke

2011-09-29T14:46:00.005+01:00

A frustrating summer of illness has seen me rather silent on the ME blog, climbing trips have been limited by various combinations of fatigue, nausea and symptoms that I’ll spare you the details of. A few semi-successful trips to the wall and odd low intensity sessions on the bike in recent weeks had however done wonders for my confidence so, with some time off from my ME marketing responsibilities due, it was time to get out regardless. Having tried endless sleep, random pills, a lot of fruit and a colonoscopy that caused more questions from friends than any route I’ve ever done, could it be that sunny sea cliffs were actually the remedy? There was only one way to find out.

Happily a contender for the world’s most reliable climbing partner was on hand. Soupy, aka Mark, is a paramedic and variously a mountaineering instructor, roped access technician, Antarctic veteran and coffee aficionado. Suitably reassured I loaded up the car and headed for Pembroke where the BBC had promised us it would be largely sunny and generally perfect for climbing.

After a late arrival at a sodden campsite we awoke to more dampness, a lot of grey clouds and very strong winds. At least the crags would dry quickly and despite the constant buffeting of the tent this was apparently less serious than it got ‘down South’. Some dozing and procrastinating over cups of tea later it was decided that we should at least approach the crag for a look. St. Govan’s seemed the least threatening option with the unhelpful tides and military firing and Soupy duly disappeared over the edge with the abseil rope making frequent attempts at escaping back over the top of the cliff. Climbing conditions were definitely sub-optimal as was proved further by a rapid and bracing ascent of Army Dreamers, a normally benign classic enlivened considerably by the almost Patagonian conditions. A retreat to the Café was required where we pooled our extensive collective experience and made the spectacularly poor decision to try Mowing Word where, if anything, it was windier. Some efficient, and briefly horizontal, jumaring above an impressively boiling sea later and we found ourselves at the rather less exciting Stennis Head. I led a final route with even less style than normal to finish an unproductive day.

Day two started with the beginnings of a sadly familiar tiredness out of all proportion to the previous days activities but the wind had dropped considerably and it was time to get on with it. Soupy made short work of Calisto at St. Govan’s East before we headed back to the main crag for a few more routes. Halfway up the Arrow, a route I would expect to feel really steady, the wheels came off completely and my body let it be known that wellness couldn’t be forced, however good the climbing. After struggling up the fantastic flow stone and friendly holds I flopped uselessly onto the top and prepared myself for a long drive home to Kendal.

The following days were spent feeling less than well but just going climbing again made it all seem worthwhile. With a good winter in prospect it’s time to finally sort things out and get back to a normal diet of training and climbing, hopefully I will be blogging about some proper climbing adventures soon!

Rich B

DAV Expedition Team: Summer Camp Report

2011-09-28T14:52:00.006+01:00

Words by Mirko (DAV Team)

During the past 2 months the guys from the DAV Expedition Team have continued to work through their extensive expedition-training programme.

Reini, Max and Sebi headed out to the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan to attempt a route on K7, unfortunately they had to turn back on their attempt due to reasons beyond their control. Fellow team members Dario, Mirko and Felix spent the summer climbing hard routes around the Alps.

At the start of September the team converged on Courmayeur just south of Mont Blanc, with mountain guide Michi Wärthl and the Exped. team leader David Göttler.

After spending time at the Turin hut acclimatising the guys then headed out on their various objectives:

Reini and Michi climbed L’élixir d‘Astaroth (7a+ , A1, 400m) on the Grand Capucin (3838 m)

Sebi and Felix climbed the Bonatti route (6a, A1, 550m).

Max on Dent de Geant

Mirko, Dario and David headed to the Gervasutti Pillar, Mont Blanc de Tacul. When they arrived they were surprised to find a vast amount of rock debris on the glacier and noticed that the first pitch of their route was damaged. So they then walked to the other side of the glacier and climbed the Direct South (6c, 7 pitches) on the Dent de Geant (4013m).

The following day a well acclimatised Mirko, Reini, Felix and David trekked from the camp ground to the Monzino hut (2590 m), then the foLlowing day on to the Eccles bivouac (4041 m) before then climbing the Freney pillar (6-,A0, 800m). On the summit of Mont Blanc there was strong winds and snow, so it was not so easy to find the way in the white out.

Reini, Felix, Mirko and Max on Summit of Mont Blanc

Dario, Max, Sebi and Michi wanted to try the Gervasutti Route (6c+, A2, 750m) on the east face of Grand Jorasses, but the conditions were really poor due too high temperatures. So they descended back to the valley and the following day climbed at the Chandelle de Tacul.

Next the team head to the High Tatra in Eastern Europe for Winter Camp.

Felix on Freney Pillar

DE:

Die letzten Monate waren die Jungs vom Expedkader privat unterwegs. Reini, Max und Sebi waren im Charakusa Valley in Pakistan und versuchten dort eine Tour am K7, welche sie jedoch auf Grund diverser Probleme abbrechen mussten. Dario, Mirko und Felix kletterten schwere Touren in West- und Ostalpen.

Für September war das lang ersehnte Sommercamp im Mont Blanc Massiv geplant. Als Talort wurde Courmayeur auf der Südseite des Massivs gewählt. Das Team wurde dabei von Expeditionsbergsteiger und Bergführer Michi Wärthl unterstützt.

Zur Akklimatisation übernachtete der Kader auf der Refugio Torino. Am nächsten Tag kletterten Reini und Michi die L’élixir d‘Astaroth (7a+, A1, 400m) am Grand Capucin (3838 m), Sebi und Felix kletterten ebenfalls dort die Bonatti Führe (6a, A1, 550m).

Mirko, Dario, Max und David wollten sich am Gervasutti Pfeiler am Mont Blanc de Tacul akklimatisieren, wunderten sich im Zustieg über viele Blöcke in der Größe von Telefonzellen und fanden den Einstieg nicht, bis es um 5.30 Uhr hell wurde und sie erkannten dass sie im Zustieg über die Überreste der ersten Seillänge liefen. So entschieden sie sich an den Dent de Geant (4013m) zu gehen und kletterten dort die Direkte Südwand (6c, 7 SL).

Mirko and Felix approach the Eccles bivouac

Gut akklimatisiert starteten Mirko, Reini, Felix und David vom Campingplatz aus zur Monzino Hütte (2590 m), am nächsten Tag zum Eccles Biwak (4041 m) und kletterten am dritten Tag den Freney Pfeiler (6-, A0, 800m). Aufgrund einer aufziehenden Kaltfront mussten sie ihre Leidensfähigkeit unter Beweis stellten, als sie um halb acht abends im Schneesturm und „white out“ den Gipfel des Mont Blanc erreichten.

Dario, Max, Sebi und Michi nahmen sich als Ziel die Gervasutti Route (6c+, A2, 750m) durch die Ostwand der Grandes Jorasses zu klettern. Im ersten Licht starteten sie vom Tal aus über den Gletscher zum Col de Hirondelles und kletterten auf dem Hirondelles Grat bis auf fast 3700 m um von dort zu der Ostwand zu queren. Jedoch war aufgrund der hohen Temperaturen der Bereich stark ausgeapert und extrem brüchig, was ein Queren zu gefährlich machte. So stiegen sie noch am selben Tag die 2100 Hm wieder ins Tal ab.

Reini, Felix, and Mirko on Summit of Mont Blanc

Am nächsten Tag nahmen sie wieder die Bahn zur Turiner Hütte und kletterten an der Chandelle de Tacul und am Piller Surprise.

Nach einer lustigen, sportlichen und abenteuerlichen Woche in den Westalpen kehrte der Expedkader nach Hause zurück und freut sich bereits auf das nächste Trainingscamp im Winter in der Hohen Tatra.

Sunrise over Langdale

2011-09-28T08:53:00.000+01:00

ME Product Manager Richard Talbot has just sent me this image of the sunrise over Langdale this morning while he was out on recce of the "Langdale horseshoe race"

In conversation with... Stephen Venables

2011-09-27T15:27:00.001+01:00

Check out the latest in our In conversation with... series featuring ME Pro partner
Stephen Venables.

British Cordillera Carabaya Expedition: Report

2011-09-26T09:49:00.004+01:00

Friend of the brand Tom Ripley has just mailed in this report from the sucessful British Cordillera Carabaya Expedition...

Chichicapac South Face with our line marked in red

"Hamish Dunn and I have just returned from a successful expedition to the Cordillera Carabaya, a remote and relatively unexplored mountain range in Southern Peru.

Hamish with a laden donkey

After four days acclimatizing in Puno we arrived in Macusani, the nearest town to the range, to discover that nobody spoke English or understood our limited Spanish. We were lucky to bump into Daniel, a Spanish catholic priest on a year’s exchange, who spoke good English. After much explaining he finally understood where we wanted to go. (we had been unable to locate a map to the area in Lima!) He kindly drove us and our gear to the end of the nearest road and arranged for two donkey’s to carry all our gear, to the edge of Laguna Chambine, where we planned to camp.

Our bivi tent. We descended the glacier behind. The South face is out of sight behind the ridge on the right.

After acclimatizing sufficiently and making a reconnaissance of the face we returned to base camp and sat out a period of bad weather. On August 22 we made the first ascent of our main objective the South Face of Chichicapac. The most obvious line up the face was threatened by seracs, so we climbed a direct line up the centre of the face, encountering sustained and insecure mixed climbing, until the top headwall forced us leftwards. A short, but very loose rock chimney led us to the top part of the face. A long tricky pitch, followed by easier but very loose terrain, led to an easy snow slope and the summit plateau.

Tom leading low down on the face

Hamish leading the very loose chimney.

Having spent ten hours on the face we summited just before five that evening. Anxious to descend in daylight (sunset is at 5:30) we quickly descended the West ridge, before making a short abseil onto a small glacier that lead us to back to our bivi tent.

Hamish (left) and Tom on the summit

Being in the Southern Hemisphere conditions on Chichicapac’s south face were similar to those that would be found on a European north face. The majority of the face was mixed climbing, involving powder snow on loose rock. The difficulties were quite sustained and most of the pitches were about Scottish IV/V with a couple of crux pitches of VI. The rock was generally terrible and protection sparse. Our route is 700 metres long with an overall alpine grade of TD.

We would like to thank The Alpine Club, British Mountaineering Council and Mount Everest Foundation. Without their financial support the expedition would not have take place."

In conversation with... Heinz Zak

2011-09-23T14:38:00.001+01:00

The latest interview from our In conversation with... series featuring ME Pro partner
Heinz Zak

You can check out more about Heinz at www.heinzzak.com

In conversation with... Peter Habeler

2011-09-20T16:46:00.003+01:00

The next interview in our In conversation with... series is mountaineering legend Peter Habeler.

Watch in the interview in full below.

Pete Boardman's Downsuit

2011-09-20T10:07:00.003+01:00

Make sure you check out the Autumn/Winter issue of Summit Magazine where you'll find a great article written by Alex Messenger looking at the history of Pete Boardman's ME down suit, which currently resides in the archive of the Mountain Heritage Trust.

You can find more info at the links below

www.thebmc.co.uk

www.mountain-heritage.org

Night out with Sport Raip

2011-09-18T09:38:00.001+01:00

Rather than the usual in store sleeping bag training last week, Thomas Strobl Owner of Invia our German Distributor, took staff from specialist outdoor retailer Sport Riap out to the Berchtesgadner Alps, Bavaria a for night out on the hill.

After a discussion packed hard days hike in amazing weather conditions the guys then spent the night out on the Hoher Staufen (1771m) testing some of the latest ME Sleeping bag range.

In conversation with... Andy Parkin

2011-09-11T09:48:00.000+01:00

Check out the latest video from our "In conversation with..." series, featuring ME Pro partner Andy Parkin.

Nick Bullock Signs book deal

2011-09-07T21:06:00.001+01:00

Were pleased to announce that ME Pro partner Nick Bullock has signed his first book deal with Vertebrate Publishing. (read the full press release here)

Nick's debut book, provisionally titled ‘Echoes will hit the shelves in 2012. If you can't wait till then you can keep up to date/read Nick's latest thoughts at his blog here

In conversation with... Reinhold Messner

2011-09-05T17:43:00.001+01:00

Exclusive extended interview with Mountaineering Legend Reinhold Messner.

This interview was taken from the filming of our "50 years in the Mountains" film which you can view in full over at the ME home page here. It is also available for free download from our friends at steepedge.com.

Nick Bullock: Melody 2nd Ascent

2011-09-03T12:28:00.003+01:00

ME Pro partner Nick Bullock has made the 2nd ascent of Melody (HXS or possibly E9), a steep and dangerous route at Craig Dorys, Lleyn Peninsula, North Wales first climbed by Stevie Haston back in 2005.

You can read full reports at:

Nick's Blog
UKClimbing.com
DMM Website

SAFOS Lectures

2011-09-01T20:29:00.002+01:00

Our friends at the SAIS are offering the opportunity for all winter mountain enthusiasts, skiers, boarders, climbers, walkers, mountain guides, instructors and other professionals to address the challenges that avalanche hazard in Scotland presents. What snowpack conditions are we faced with? How can we effectively manage decision making as enthusiasts, as rescue teams, as individuals and as commercial operators?

These topics and relevant experiences will be presented by: Stefan Harvey - WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research, Switzerland, Ed Chard - Jagged Globe, Dave MacLeod - Professional Climber , Mark Williams - Research Institute for Sport and Exercise Science, Liverpool John Moores University, Mark Diggins - SAIS Coordinator, John Allen MBE - Scottish Mountain Rescue. The seminar will also provide an opportunity for participants to discuss topics and issues relevant to all mountain users and enable a better understanding of the challenges that we face in avalanche terrain.

Event itself is being held at Ratho on the weekend of 29th/30th October'11.

ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod will also be lecturing on the Saturday evening as part of this event.

More information/tickets available at the SAIS site here

Pinnacle Night - ME Store, Manchester

2011-08-31T17:28:00.001+01:00

Details for our next event at the Mountain Equipment Store, Deansgate, Manchester featuring ME Pro partner Andy Turner. Click the flyer below for more information and details on how to register for this free event...

Harry's Arctic Heroes - BBC One

2011-08-30T16:16:00.002+01:00

If you happen to be watching the second part of Harry's Arctic Heroes on BBC One tonight at 9pm then make sure you keep your eyes peeled for friend of the brand and series producer/director Alexis Girardet.

Alexis and the Twofour production team used our Kongur and Greenland jackets while filming the documentary that charts the extraordinary attempt by four severely-injured Afghan veterans as they aim to complete their unsupported trek to the North Pole.

Alexis (on Camera) filming Prince Harry during his time on the expedition

Twofour Team at the Pole

If you missed the first episode you can view it on BBC iplayer

You can also check out other programmes that the Twofour Team have been working on here

Stanage on a bank holiday....

2011-08-29T18:11:00.012+01:00

I had some time to climb on Sunday afternoon, but where to go?
The mixed weather on Sunday gave me hope that an exposed windy spot would dry quickly from any showers that passed meaning a good afternoons climbing could be had even if it wasn't consistantly dry.
With it being a bank holiday a not too popular spot would be good. Also, I was all out of climbing partners, losing out to: house moving, N. Wales (x2) and the Cricket.

Hoping to avoid the crowds it seemed a good opportunity for a soloing day at the far left of Stanage. I was a bit inspired by John Long's tales of having 'an El Cap' day at Joshua tree where he and John Bachar would try to solo 2900 feet of rock in a day. I thought it would fun to try to climb as much rock as possible without being too bothered about exactly which routes or how hard they are . I thought it would be good to start at climb number 1 (in the 1989 guide, the one with Johnny Dawes on the cover) and work eastwards climbing every route I could solo.

High Neb in sun and shadow on the walk up

The first few routes were a tad green but I dragged my self up them being blown about in the wind, wondering what I had let myself in for.
It wasn't long though before I was cruising up a lot of top notch gritstone kept in great nick thanks to the buffeting wind, mostly diffs to severes with the odd harder route as well. It was great fun to get stuck into quite a few chimneys that normally I wouldn't look twice at, from the tight offwidth thrutching of Boomerang Chimney to full back and footing up Manhatten Chimney. There were a few high ball boulder problem routes and a lot of mileage.

Self portrait near the top of Richards Sister, Severe, round the corner from the Marble Wall area.

I ground to a halt after the Crow Chin buttress having climbed 29 routes for a total of 249m of climbing. Tired. I'm pretty keen on the idea of working along the edge soloing everything easy but it might be the work of the lifetime, or at least a longtime.

Comfy climbing boots, cotton Echo pants (out next spring) and an Arrow half zip. Pefect for a windy cool day moving fast, ish on the grit. I don't like writing about product, but I was wearing them for the purpose I designed them for and they were really good. As a designer you can't ask for more than that..

British Cordillera Carabaya Expedition: Success

2011-08-29T17:18:00.000+01:00

Just had a short email in from friend of the brand Tom Ripley who is currently out in the Cordillera Carabaya, Peru. Both he and Hamish Dunn have successfully bagged the first ascent of the South Face of Chichicapac (5614m) The guys climbed through pitches of Scottish V 4 and a couple of crux's at VI 5 and topped out at 5pm on 22nd August'11.

S Face of Chichicapac (5614m)

We'll have a full report and images from the guys when their back in the UK mid September.

Dave MacLeod: Bongo Bar First Free Ascent

2011-08-29T16:44:00.001+01:00

More great footage and images coming in from the GORE-TEX Experience Tour Norway team.
ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod has just bagged the first free ascent of "Bongo Bar" on Blamman. You can view the video and Dave's latest post here, also make sure you checkout the latest posts from Paul DiffleyHotaches here and G.E.T finalist Julia here.

Dave on the first free ascent of Bongo Bar, Blamman, Norway. 400m, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b.

Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions.

Lukasz visit

2011-08-24T09:02:00.004+01:00

Friend of the brand and professional photographer Lukasz Warzecha swung by ME HQ yesterday to give us a quick update on what he's been up to over the past few weeks and also his plans for the fast approaching winter. Last week Lukasz was out shooting ME Pro partner Nick Bullock over at Gogarth, a few snaps from which you can see over at his blog here

Nick over at Gogarth last week

There are also a few places still available for Lukasz's photography workshops at Plas y Brenin on 30th Sept. – 2nd October'11 not only will you be able to learn tricks of the trade from Lukasz but ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod will be on hand to act as subject over the course of the workshop, more information available here - be quick as spaces are limited!

Lukasz will also be lecturing at the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival at Ratho on Thursday 6th October'11 so make sure you come along and check him out. Tickets available here

A Year of Microadventure

2011-08-19T10:24:00.001+01:00

Friend of the brand, explorer and Scott 2012 team member Al Humphreys is currently working through his latest project a "Year of Microadventure".

Al tells us more.....

"2011 is the Year of Microadventure a whole year when, instead of exotic foreign adventures, I am committed to trying to encourage people to get outside, get out of their comfort zone, go somewhere they’ve never been, go on a microadventure. An adventure that is close to home, cheap, simple, short, and yet very effective.

The aim is to build them up gradually in order that absolutely everyone can get involved and progress from novices to doing something relatively gnarly by the end of the year. Have a look at the videos and blog entries here, then commit to your own microadventure."

Heres the video of Al's latest Microadventure No 8 - River Swim

You check out more information about Al's past/future Microadventures here

Al will also be lecturing at this Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival on Sunday 9th October'11 tickets for which are now available here (tickets are selling fast so make sure your quick!)

Andy Parkin Sculptures

2011-08-18T13:00:00.000+01:00

We've just had a few photos in from professional photographer and friend of the brand John Norris of ME Pro partner Andy Parkin working on his latest set of sculptures for the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc, all of which are made from recycled copper and brass recovered from the mountains. You can view all the photos that John has taken over at John's facebook page here, make sure you add him as a "like" while your there too.

Andy at work photo John Norris

GORE TEX Experience Tour: Day 2

2011-08-17T15:09:00.000+01:00

Few more pics from the guys in Norway

GORE TEX Experience Tour: Day One

2011-08-16T17:53:00.000+01:00

The first report and pictures have come in from ME Pro Dave MacLeod and the team who are currently out in Norway on Dave's GORE TEX Experience Tour. Few photos from which are below

You can read more at Dave's blog here

There are also further photos at the Hot aches Facebook page here

Nick Bullock: The Frumious Bandersnatch. E7 6c

2011-08-16T15:50:00.000+01:00

Head over to Nick's blog here where you can check out his report on the new route "The Frumious Bandersnatch" E7 6c. Fallen Block Zawn, Rhoscolyn.

Nick on The Frumious Bandersnatch E7 6c

Fifty years of Excellence

2011-08-15T14:29:00.003+01:00

Well its finally here.... the 50th celebrations are now underway, headover to the website where you'll find our specially commisioned film "50 Years in the Mountains" put together by our friends Brian Hall and Keith Partridge of Venture Films alongside our NEW AW11 range.

Click here to check it out!

Dave MacLeod Interview on 4-seasons TV

2011-08-12T09:15:00.001+01:00

I mentioned this interview with ME Pro partner Dave MacLeod a few weeks ago while we were out at OutDoor 2011 well here it is..... 4 Seasons TV

Photography Workshops with Lukasz Warzecha

2011-08-11T21:26:00.003+01:00

Friend of the brand and professional photographer Lukasz Warzecha is running a set of photography workshops with special guest subject Dave MacLeod.

Lukasz on the Crux pitch of The Long Hope Route, while shooting ME Pro partners Dave MacLeod & Andy Turner

Lukasz tells us more: "For me personally, photography has been always about sharing images… but for the first time I get a chance to share with you even more.
Being asked over and over again about my own photography workshops I have decided to finally give you all the best we’ve got here…

A skilful photographer (yours truly, our safety and location guru (Ruth Taylor) and my top assistant (Matt) all yours for the whole weekend! And to make it even better, we have invited for you to photograph (thank you Mountain Equipment) one of the world’s best climber and an all round nice guy – Dave Macleod.

Where? – North Wales (based out of Bryn Engan Farmhouse)
When? – 30th September (Friday) – 2nd of October (Sunday)
Group size is limited to 8 people only.
I’m sure it will be a practical, informative, and inspirational weekend. For all details just click here!

On a side note, just a quick list of other workshops and lectures I’m doing in the near future:

- 12-13th August – Summer Photography School in Poland (in Polish) – I think 4 places left
- 30th Sept. – 2nd October – LWimages AUTUMN PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS – shoot with DAVE MACLEOD
- 6th October – Thursday Night lecture during the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival
- 15th October – I’m teaching photography at the Alpkit Bigshakeout weekend!

For more information check out Lukasz's website here

Future Product on Test in the Lakes

2011-08-09T15:50:00.007+01:00

Steve in a new for 2012 Javelin Jacket after a rapid ascent of D Route on Gimmer Crag, Langdale

If you spotted my blog last week you'll know that I spent Wednesday out on the hill with the guys from the Epicentre in Ambleside and ME Pro Partner Nick Bullock. A varied day covering lots of ground provided the perfect opportunity for us to try out some of our current and future lightweight softshells. Days like this are really important as they allow retail staff to use our kit and develop their own opinions on the ME gear that they stock as well as allowing us and our Pro Partners to feed back our own experiences.

Below are the Epicentre's Steve Ashworth's initial impressions on our new Javelin Jacket that will be available from March 2012. Steve is well known in the Lakes as one of the best winter climbers around, an accomplished alpinist and a slightly unhinged fell runner! It's fair to say that he know's a thing or two about technical kit so we're always keen to hear what he has to say:

My first thoughts when getting the new Javelin Jacket out of the packet where that it would make a great jacket for winter fell running. This should come as no surprise as being designed to meet the needs of the light and fast Alpinist it should slot really well into the role of partner for long winter days putting the miles in over the fells. When you are moving the exolite fabric will keep a surprising amount of weather at bay.

I’m always looking for non membraned softshells and it is good to see that in aiming for maximum breathability Mountain Equipment have stuck to their guns and haven’t been tempted to put a membrane in this jacket. Whilst sitting in the Spring/ Summer range for Mountain Equipment and having a winter cousin in the Orbital Jacket, I would choose to wear the Javelin Jacket on “nice” days in Scotland in winter or on a day where I was trying to get a move on. The Javelin Jacket would be great for something like a winter traverse of the Skye Ridge or for a day linking up classics on the Ben. It goes without saying that it would also be top of my list for an Alpine summer trip.

The Javelin showed how versatile it will be in the climber’s wardrobe when we were out last week on a warm sunny day in Langdale, being a perfect barrier against a cool breeze that picked up on the crag and drying quickly after a very sweaty approach. Even in the relatively benign conditions we experienced the large helmet compatible hood was a welcome addition and one that I feel is essential for jackets of this type.

The Javelin is a super versatile jacket equally as at home on the crag down Langdale as it will be soaking up the sun on the Chamonix Aiguilles, it will slot seamlessly into the winter runners wardrobe and looks set to be another Mountain Equipment classic, hopefully my long term test piece will arrive soon!

Stripping off layers during the jog across from Gimmer Crag to Pavey Ark, Langdale

Heres a few more shots/film clips from the day in a slideshow put together by the guys at the Epicentre

Mountain Equipment enters the USA

2011-08-08T05:21:00.001+01:00

I'm sitting writing this blog at the end of what seems like a long and tiring week. Its 5am in the UK but only 10pm here in Salt Lake City, Utah, venue for the largest outdoor tradeshow in the United States, Outdoor Retailer.

Luckily any hint of Jet-lag has now well and truly faded, just in time for the 12 hour flight back to the UK but that doesnt seem so bad, following what has been a great week here in the United States.

Its the first time that we have exhibited properly in the USA but despite that, the four day tradeshow has been a busy one for us, with lots of line presentations, especially to the specialist retailers dotted along the north-western half of the US who seem to appreciate our understanding of rain and gnarly mountaineering conditions. And its been a really interesting mix of people and stores, from expedition outfitters in the far reaches of Alaska to renowned mountaineering and climbing stores in Colorado. Big, brash and unashamed America seems to have postively liked our rich heritage and uncompromising message of functional, high quality gear.

Thankfully it's not all been stand building and selling and we've managed a few hours to hike some of the trails in the Wasatch mountains and climb some of the amazing granite Walls that sweep down into the canyons that run around the rim of the Great Salt Lake basin.

On Monday, hamish and myself headed around to Big Cottonwood Canyon and upto the winter ski resort of Brighton. True to form, in one of the driest parts of the US we managed bring the rain with us and had an energetic return from the 9500ft col charging down through the forests in a thunderstorm. Perfect for giving arid and the normally dry Wasatch mountains a taste of our new GORE-TEX Active Shell.

Not content with just hiking, after a busy day of stand-building, the whole team headed round to Little Cottonwood Canyon for a taste of some of the great rock climbing that the Wasatch has to offer. Jordan, one of our team of helpers, managed to get some beta on what we were told was 'one of the best 5:7 climbs in the Wasatch' and we werent disappointed. A vast 25m dihedral corner system that eventually forced its way upwards via an amazing flake and jamming crack system to the top. Only a couple of pitches, but some of the nicest granite climbing i have done, all trad but with bolted belays.

So if you're in the US keep an eye out for our range. The first deliveries will be arriving into selected stores this Autumn / Fall and we'll be posting details of dealers onto our website later.

Hopefully I'll get some photos added to this blog as soon as I get home.

Guerrillas in the Mist - Direct

2011-08-06T13:56:00.000+01:00

Head over to ME Pro partner Jens Holsten's blog here to check out his account of "Guerrillas in the Mist - Direct " on Mount Stuart, Cascades.

Trumpet Slappers - Video

2011-08-05T15:03:00.000+01:00

Head over to the DMM site here where you can check out a great short video by 2 Rays productions of ME Pro partner Nick Bullock on Trumpet Slappers E7 6c, Scimitar Ridge, Llanberis.

also check out Nick's blog for further info